Karabiner Mountaineering Club: 2004 Greenland Expedition

Diary of the 2004 Expedition

Thu 8^th July: Leave from Manchester and Warrington at about 5am and arrive at the Bridgefoot Cattery before 9am in 3 cars. Easyjet flight leaves more or less on time to arrive late afternoon in a cloudy Copenhagen. Chose train and Metro to Bella Centre stop, then 10min walk, fully loaded, to Youth Hostel. Ate at hostel, then most sat around reception drinking beer from plastic bottles at ludicrous prices. Having temporarily lost their baggage, Karel & Helena arrive 11:15, with bags sensibly stowed in Left Luggage.
Fri 9^th July Up for 7am Breakfast, leaving Hostel at 8am on foot for the Metro. A longer wait in the rain for the train (50min), and much re-packing of bags still left many 2kg over weight, but were checked in, no questions asked, and the hand luggage wasn't weighed (just as well). There was thick cloud all the way to Narsarsuaq where it was sleeting hard. Plane attempted a landing, but aborted as snow covered ground loomed out of the mist rather close, then diverted to Kangerlussuaq, north of the Arctic Circle (furthest north for all). The place is the Airport, and is like a desert. Air Greenland put us up, expenses paid, in the Airport hotel in the terminal building. A line of enticing cliffs was on the far side of the runway, but unfortunately on the far side of a river. The ridge behind the terminal was fronted by a line of broken, gneiss slabs and as something to do for the afternoon, Duncan and Scott put up "Scott of the Arctic", E1 5a,5a here. First sight of the inland ice and place's name was mangled into "Kangeroo Squat".
Sat 10^th July: Flew out at 9:30 in business class - low over icecap on the hour's flight to Narsarsuaq and lakes of incredible blue could be seen. Very overcast and gloomy but some were excited by the first view of "bergs (to dwindle 24hrs later!). The standard S61 helicopter wasn't available, so there were to be 4 flights of a 9 seat helicopter instead. However, we were all spread about amongst the flights - just as Karel & Helena finished checking in, they were bustled out the door, to fill in for two missing on the first flight. So they got there first, meeting Niels, bought some supplies for the evening meal and waited at the Youth Hostel. Even the flight order changed so the bulk of us arrived on the penultimate 45 minute flight - a most exciting low level ride. The seating had "side gunners" and even through the provided Ear defenders, one could almost hear "Ride of the Valkyries" as we swooped, metres over the first ridge.
Sleeting hard on arrival in Nanortalk, we all finally met Niels, who then ferried us to the tiny Youth Hostel, soon to be "the Wendy House". The small diesel stove performed a vital function while we waited for the final flight to bring in Karel & Helena's bags. Were told by Niels, forecast poor for a few days but we should have a boat tomorrow (1 day late), but not on Monday because of ferry duties, so tasks were distributed for an early start. One supermarket would open at 9am, but not the hardware/gas store. After the meal, headed into town looking for the hotel bar, to be met by artillery fire - a firework party was in progress, and the rockets being fired out over the harbour should have been classified as military weapons. A warm reception at the bar, but at the rate of 38Dkr a bottle of Carlsberg, funds dwindled.
Sun 11^th July: Leader up at 6 to a cool, overcast, flat calm with the sea full of ice of all sizes, and was in the tourist office at 8am to arrange things with Niels. The gear was in an "icebox" cold warehouse behind the office, together with the freight of another 4 or so expeditions. Duncan and Anna were left to freeze and sort out the items to stay behind. By then there were four or five in the supermarket, getting the best match they could to our list of requirements - Sunday proves to be restrictive. Checked out gas regulators and found new ones required, but the hardware store was shut, so Ian was whipped away by Niels to get cylinders and regulators from the store owner. Others were collecting the hardware we needed as the boat was due at 12. Having seen some second hand timber from a failed house construction, we gained permission for a few lengths. A quick collection of our valuables to go into Niels's safe, and expedition non-valuables not needed on the island to go into the back room, was made. More things were borrowed from Niels, and the boat hire details finalised - pickup due on the 2^nd at 14:00.
By now the "Ketil" had arrived at the pier, and trolleys of supplies were wheeling to the pier. We were even lent Niels's van to move the barrels the short distance to the pier. The boat was gradually loaded down to its marks, leaving scarcely any room on the aft deck - and numbers to the viewing deck had to be limited to 4. All away at 12:40 and a fascinating journey began. There was a lot of sea mist about, and large areas of pack ice to weave about in - at one point bumping a growler out of the way. Passing the Torssukatak Spires was impressive but then we had the first view of Pamiagdluk with the Baron prominent. From then on into new waters and the crew had the chart out as we crept round the southern arm of the island where the bifurcating ridge ends. The open valley between is a possible landing area and there's an interesting steep SE facing wall on the E ridge. The "Ketil" squeezed through the narrows behind an islet where a large iceberg virtually filled the gap, and entered the mouth of Kangerdluarssuk fjord. The first sight of the reality behind the aerial photograph had the team excited, apart from one with a double dose of sea-sickness pills! There were many big walls and ridges dropping into the sea on either side and it was clear walking down the coast would be difficult. In particular, we marked a large concave slabby sea-cliff rising into complex walls that, apart from a break, reached the summit ridge.
Our small inlet/bay on the western side of the fjord opened out and we looked for a place to land - a boulder beach on the west appeared to be the best, allowing the better ground for carrying gear inland. We couldn't be landed but the Ketil's rubber dinghy made numerous short trips ashore, emptying the boat. The "captain" must be the last to leave, so the leader completed the efficient operation, jumping ashore some 30mins later. A poignant moment as the Ketil turned to leave - we were now on our own resources for 3 weeks. However with a dull overcast sky and rain imminent, we had to find a base camp. The river was not passable with the boxes, and most places were stone fields or sloping, but 700m up the river a promising site was found. About 5pm the big, tiring carry commenced, with some clever use of the timber as a stretcher for the boxes. The big tent went up allowing a temporary kitchen facility to be built and for Ian to start chef duties. The remainder of the kit was brought up and placed under cover meanwhile.
While cooking was finishing, I took a quiet moment out to follow the river up for a kilometre, firstly up through a boulder choke, boulder hopping, then to a stony meadow by a small tarn. The Baron looked steep on all sides and the lower face was seamed with gullies. Our 1300m peak had a smaller peak S of it, with a strikingly regular inset huge slab recessed into its west flank (later seen to be dirty and vegetated). A long day so an early night, with rain starting at 11pm.
Mon 12^th July: A late start but then it was still raining - a day to set up base camp properly. The big Boulder was clearly dry underneath so became the climbing kit and tool store. Ian and Dave undertook a frustrating search for a latrine site, finding little soil but many rocks, eventually conceding that a depression under a large boulder in the boulder field up-slope would be the best option. A four man working party was dispatched with shovels and crowbar to construct Pamiagdluk's finest facilities, whilst Dave, Karel & Helena constructed and sited our grease trap. Meanwhile, the "inside" section of the team were creating order inside the mess tent, locating the food supplies in an organised manner. Our meat and cheese supplies were dropped into a barrel, sunk into the river, as a fridge. The afternoon continued with the waste disposal arrangements, and sorting out the hardware and emergency kit. The first check in call home was made, with a quick connection and the base camp position from the GPS relayed to Dave. After dinner, a group meeting established the camp "rules" and where everything was, which was soon forgotten.
Tues 13^th July: An excellent morning - the only problem was deciding what to do first. Karel and Helena set off on the first on many explorations, crossing the river, plodding up and over the ridge separating Eagle bay from the main valley and proceeding north up the Antonio valley to the final short drop into the sea at the northern end of the island. They returned the same way, correcting a cartographic error - the lake drains south into Kangerdluarssuk and not northwards as shown. Al and Jenny headed for the tarn and an exploration of the gullies to the west, under the Butler. Good snow in the widest (to be known as "B" gully) took them to a stopper at a true waterfall (grade I) where they turned back and looked into the entrances of more gullies. Steve, Rob, Julie and Anna headed up the short slope to the right-hand portion of the blunt buttress or ridge directly above base.
Scott and Duncan followed Karel to the top of the spur and walked up until the south ridge proper started as a wall onto the small fore peak of pt1300. 3 pitches of good climbing at E1 took them to a moderate angled knife edge ridge above the huge inset slab. The summit (around 650m) of "Punta Cosulich" was a long way back and from that a short wall led down to a small col to its north. An abseil down a small, west facing gully with loose wet VD down-climbing, took them into a big, steep couloir of snow. Unfortunately, not having axes they were forced to descend a long way on the snow protected with nut keys.
Directly above base to the west rose the imposing summit of the Baron, 1340m. An open couloir from the Crowberry slopes above base could be seen heading for a broad col at the foot of the Baron's south wall. Another, smaller peak rose to the south, and beyond that, a prominent, stony, slanting couloir rose to the right of a spur to another clear col to that peak's south. Ian and Dave, taking a light rack, headed up the easy vegetable slopes to the left of the Baron south couloir, entering it above slabs, to gain the open col via snow patches and scree. The south wall of the Baron is a huge sheet of compact vertical, red granite with few weaknesses and no obvious continuous lines. Dropping into the col, on the right of the wall, was a shallow dihedral leading into a large scoop where there were possible lines going both out left and right. It was still wet from melting snow, as there was a thin layer of fresh snow on the hills. They headed south over a scree fan, breaching the buttress by shallow ramps and corners, and onto the loose upper slopes of the next peak south. The north ridge was followed over 2-3 false tops - often narrow and overhanging the east face like a rock cornice, hence the summit became "Cornice peak", 1070m. There were superb views of the Baron with more possibilities to the right of the scoop. Returning down the couloir, they met Rob and team, heading up for a look around at the col - their buttress had repulsed them with its compact, and wet rock.
Wed 14^th July: More fine weather saw Ian and Scott head south from camp for the spur to the left of the slanting couloir. Starting on its right hand slabs they found some intricate, mostly easy, but dirty in places climbing, with sections of scrambling. They saw some immaculate rock further round to the south for a return visit. Rock tripe (Black cornflakes) made the main jamming crack painful. A final wall below the summit took them to a small neck of land, that was the col, as seen from base, but to nowhere as the far side was a snow and scree funnel plunging into the fjord below. Descent was down the easy slanting couloir, leaving them "Mingy midge ridge" route, HVS. Rob and Julie inspected the slabs near the start of the route, finally walking up to meet the other pair at the col. Steve and Jenny went fishing on the spit of land on the east side of Eagle bay, catching 6 Guppies and a small Cod.
The explorers, Karel and Helena, set off up the valley intending to make the circuit round the north coast to the large lake and back via their previous day's route. They returned late, having bagged one peak in the north west corner of the island as a diversion. Al continued his solo explorations of the innermost parts of the Earth, climbing up the snow couloir slanting to the left behind the blunt nose above camp. The snow finished at a waterfall and after scree he reached a neck overlooking the Baron couloir, spotting climbing potential in the corner and gully system to the left of the waterfall.
Dave and Duncan had point 1300m in their sights - heading up the valley, they turned right and perspired their way to the head of the snow couloir so familiar to Duncan, arriving at noon. During the ascent, it gained the name "SOB couloir". At the end of the day, its soft snow and furnace like heat, gave a truly high speed, glissading descent to the tarn. The task was the south ridge, where scree and easy scrambling for 150m led to a VD slanting chimney/gully cutting up left to the ridge crest, followed by a 4b pitch up steep cracks in the nose of the ridge. Two pitches (30m VS 4c/5a, 25m 4c) up crack systems just to the right of the ridge apex led to a flattening. 200m of easy scrambling and moving together brought us to another flat area overlooking a couloir at 1225m. Point 1300m is actually twin peaked with a secondary big summit cone a little further NE. We'd seen the snow couloir that ran up the east face to the notch between the summits, but not the steep branch that led here. Below us, a small snow bowl curved round to another deep notch whose appearance was unanticipated from below. A loose abseil could get us to the snow (and a probable return), but then we'd have to traverse the steep snow in rock boots without ice axes. The summit tower itself was well defended, steep with ledges piled high with loose blocks perched over the cracks, it ended in a top consisting of 3 huge flagstones stacked on top of each other some ~90m above the notch. Prudence dictated that bagging the fore-top overlooking the notch was the consolation prize, at 1250m this became "Consolation point". Returning to the top of the pitched climbing they abseiled to the east, aiming for a terrace under the face, on a level with the easier lower section of the route. The descent involved the usual worrying spikes and boulders, and the statutory jammed rope. Leaving the terrace required some gnarly down climbing.
Thu 15^th July: Early morning fog. Karel, Helena and Anna wanted a view of the Baron, so took the couloir to the Baron Col with the intention of dropping down the other side, but to give Anna a peak, repeated Cornice peak instead. Steve had the fishing bug, and went off up the Antonio valley with Julie to try his luck in the main lake there, but caught his smallest fish yet there - 5cm! By now we knew Sea Eagles had to be nesting somewhere in the area as we saw them quite often - Jenny and Al were at "Eagle view crag" opposite the end of the peninsula in Eagle Bay, putting up a couple of single pitch routes. Ian and Scott spent the morning looking for boulders with holds, then packed bivi gear and slogged their way to the Baron col to try a long route on the south face of the Baron on the next day.
Dave and Duncan went down the western side of the fjord, taking the rise over a shoulder and dropping towards a tiny bay on the other side, in order to inspect the sea-cliff and check if continuing further south along the coast was feasible. A chilly southerly wind. Climbed onto the lower slabs by a rotten corner, and found these slabs very compact but easy angled - progress south is possible if one is happy running about on sloping rock - one slide and it's a cold bath. After ~80m the slabs turned steeper above a break into a big 850m face of walls and slabs with no obvious line. A series of buttresses broken with good ledges were in a rising line to the right above the headland/shoulder with a prominent gully just over the headland - these offered more amenable fare for the day. "Black Fly Buttress" is just left of the gully - the flies were bad that day at these low altitudes, and we longed for the sun to go round to give us deep shade in which we might have peace. A pleasant line started up a cracked buttress right of a roof, giving us "Irritating Parasites" E2 with descent down the gully and out to the right (facing the crag). Stances were on comfortable ledges from which many variants could be seen. The 5c thin crack and slab were excellent.
Fri 16^th July: Frosty and clear day. Ian and Scott got off to a slow start up on the col, but tackled the scoop on the right side of the main south wall, pulling out and up a line to the SE ridge on the right. Starting at VD and with 15 pitches of up to E1 5b climbing, after ~900m of climbing they topped out on "Baron Greenback", 30m below the summit. There to be surprised by 2 of the 4 person Sheffield team then based on the western shores, on the Baron for the second time. The summit had an old cairn and ancient peg, so the Baron had likely been climbed many years ago. Eight abseils, lots of down climbing and jammed ropes saw them back on the col 600m below at 00:30.
Al went off walking to the group of tarns up at the head of "our" valley, and returning early had a look at a gully over to the left of "B" gully. Though not passable because it was steep and full of jammed boulders, he did find the remains of an ancient yellow rope. Clearly someone had been here before - Karel had reported a cairn on a boulder by the first tarn, in addition to a cairn we had found near the beach on our landing day. The former cairn wasn't obvious and it was some days before it was spotted again, so who knows what it marked. Duncan, Rob, Steve and Julie went down to Black Fly Buttress to climb in the vicinity of Irritating Parasites, resulting in "Mosquitoes in Mocassins" E2, " 'uck a Duck", E3, and Steve's project, which was completed later on the trip.
Dave away solo up the slanting couloir south of camp - giving it the name "Pussy Cat couloir" as it turned out to be easier on ascent than expected, on generally large stable scree and vegetated spurs. The "Cornice peak "ridge terminated here in two broken towers with a loose scoop in between - some big, blocky overhangs attest to the poorer nature of the rock. From the first 700m col, following the gap between snow and rock brings one to the real 750m col, from where a steady descent on steep snow would take one into a snow bowl with scree and boulder fields running down to the Torssukatak sound. The ridge south of the col rose in 3 steps to the first 990m top, requiring intricate scrambling up groves. The western side had moderate scree and snow slopes while the east was vertical to over-hanging. 150m below, the "sea-cliff" ended in a slanting partial ledge system, with no visible easy means of escape, while the ridge had a number of exotic rock formations, pinnacles adhered to the face with some form of rock glue. The summit itself looked like the superstructure of the "Ark Royal" as seen bow on, akin to a smaller Scottish feature. The summit was double topped, the second higher one lying beyond a dip and cleft in the ridge, and they were identified (in the absence of any local or prior names) as "Lord" (1010m) and "Lady Berkeley peaks" (1015m). The tops were made of orange, decomposing gneiss. Beyond this a dead-end ridge curved out to the south east, and an open ridge swept down to the head of a boulder bowl, rising to a pinnacle from which the ridge line south turned very impressive indeed (and very complex). Dave more or less retraced his steps.
Sat 17^th July: A morning veiled in thin high cloud. After stirring late on the col, Scott and Ian retrieved the last stuck rope, and leisurely descended to base at 15:00. The peninsular into Eagle bay took a battering - first Rob via the first tarn and a look at the slabs opposite, then Steve and Anna on a mission to fish, resulting in Steve - 1 small cod, Anna 1 large char on a hand line. This was after Al and Anna had done a little climbing on a small buttress below "Pussy Cat couloir". Later Julie walked out to join them. Meanwhile, Karel and Helena in exploring mode, packed for 4 days, and proceeded up the valley bound for the large lake, but continuing on round the north coast of the island through the area of German exploration, to perhaps try some peaks in the vicinity.
Dave and Duncan attempted to get onto the fine looking east face or NE ridge of the Butler from below, hoping one or another of the couloirs there would give them a good start. Entered the mouth of the slanting "A" gully (left of "B") and paused - the snow filled gully started with a chock-stone and waterfall. There was a lot of evidence of falling rock - such as the cratered crown of a neatly split boulder, and the air had an evil feel. The pair sketched their way round on mossy slabs to the left, returning to a tongue of rock in the gully bed. The anticipated side gully leading up and right did not materialise - it was an evil, wet, loose chimney and wall, so not wishing to remain, they returned to scramble up the left hand bounding ridge to see whether they could get back across higher up. Tricky scrambling and some terrifying perched monoliths on the slabs by a sill, led them on beyond the point of return to the summit where it necked into the main cliff. The main cliff above had a number of powerful crack and corner lines to a terrace, while a couloir to the left dropped into a couple of chock stone pitches. However, they were of one mind, to escape the place, and the only possibility was to descend into "A" gully down to the right. This involved the most terrifying down climbing on unstable rock embedded in shale, before abseiling across the snow and back to the foot of the gully via the mossy slab. The first spots of rain dropped from the lowering sky as they packed and returned to base via a quick check of "B" gully. The "route" was "Shelob's ridge", and we're not going back!
Sun 18^th July: An overcast day saw some particularly late starts. Duncan and Dave left at midday under thickening cloud to look for crags and walls above the snow field in the valley narrows, where the river took a tumble. Leading into the narrows on the left were from left to right, the large "B" gully, another blunt buttress, a narrow gully "C" and a clean looking "A" buttress with and apron of slabs and ledges sloping into the snow. This had the "easier" looking lines of a reasonable length. "A" Buttress was separated from the much bigger "B" buttress above the head of the snow, by a narrow cleft or gully. The top leaned out in monstrous fashion and there would be a band of shattered rock at a quarter height to contend with. The snow was thin at the edges and beginning to crack. A useful single pitch crag stood at the head of the tumble on the right (east) side, but with rain in the air, and the Tower towers being decapitated, carrying on for a look around was the game. So, after boulder hoping along to the 2^nd tarn up the valley, the lower right wing of B buttress appeared interesting. We returned as the rain started in earnest.
Rob had been checking the slabs and blunt buttress to the right of the Baron couloir above base, while Steve and Scott had gone a way down the west side of the fjord, fishing, returned with 4 good sized char. Another evening to call home with the rain fizzling out at 22:00.
Mon 19^th July: The morning turned bright after light showers, so Duncan and Rob headed for the general area of "Mingy midge ridge", finally retreating after 3 pitches on a red buttress to the right of Black Fly. Ian, Scott and Julie went to the lower tier of Black Fly Buttress for some cragging, putting up the off-widthy "Red Arse, White Rasta" E1 5b (trousers were now being taped up with (red) gaffer tape), "Short and Sweet" variations and the start of a project. Dave and Anna proceeded up the valley to look for further crags in the area of the Col, carrying a length of static rope. The latter was in order to do the decent thing and fix a rope across a section of the snow in the narrows that was becoming tricky - there would be continued traffic this way. The snow had retreated to allow a good deal more outflanking on ledges to the left as a safer option.
After that, they boulder hopped to the 2^nd tarn and onto the snow field at its head - by now the higher peaks were shrouded in mist and there were light showers. From here the right hand flank of B Buttress could be seen as merging with the open, boulder covered slabs and scree slopes sweeping down from the "Baroness Col" above that led over to the west. Escape from "B" buttress itself, would be to continue up the ridge, branching off and down another open ridge/slope to the Col. Away down the valley on the eastern side, an enticing tower perched off the side of the long high level ridge was vanishing into the drizzle. On the way back, they reconnoitred the mouth of "B" gully. The waterfall breaking the snow slope had a bypass on rock around the back of a pinnacle on the right and a terrace line dropped into the gully above from the right. It looked as if it would continue out of the gully on the left, and could go on for some way round the hill.
Tues 20^th July: A clear, frosty morning and much effort spent in organising people into setting things up for some big projects. Establishing a stash of kit for the sea-cliff was planned for the end of the day (somehow this never happened). Actually, for no good reason, not a lot happened - Ian, Julie, Scott and Rob set off up the valley for the 2^nd tarn with vague plans of some climbing. In the end no climbing was done, but a 2^nd fixed rope laid across the snow field and Scott left some gear and a rope for an assault on the west face of Consolation point. Steve also went walking to the area, returned to break the rod while hauling in more Arctic Char from the fjord. Dave and Duncan determined to sneak up on "Pisstake peak" from the east flank, and wishing to avoid the brutality of SOB couloir, crossed the river and ridge, and took a descending traverse into the main valley (quite a complex and arduous descent). Near the head of the fjord, the Killer Willow struck, rendering Dave hors de combat with scraped palm. Added to the underestimated approach, the climbing objective was out but while in the area, they took their opportunity to view the lake. The photograph seemed to indicate a rake (continuing from the terrace seen from the top of SOB) that landed just above the head of the fjord, but the gully ended in a waterfall and broken wall. Instead, a little further on, a vegetated rake did come to land, which ought to provide an alternative to SOB couloir. There were impressive walls and buttresses rising to the flanking west ridge of Antonio valley, and some good potential lines on the peaks to the east. Returned for an afternoon siesta, Karel and Helena still away in the north. By evening the afternoon haze had thickened, and heavy fog was wafting up from the south end of the fjord.
Wed 21^st July: Low cloud and hill fog, very little wind and generally dreich, so it was another rest day for all. There was a new "bergy bit" outside our bay... The Arctic fox had been getting closer and left a "deposit" on the grease trap, and Alcohol supplies are running low.
Thu 22^nd July: The day started fine so various plans were formulated. Dave, temporarily a non-climber, packed for 5 days solo exploration of the land seen south of the Berkeley peaks, and slogged up Pussy Cat Couloir at 13:45, descending the snow into the boulder basin on the far side. A convenient base with a view was found under a massive, overhanging boulder with a patch of perfectly flat gravel under its lee, and the remainder of the afternoon spent wandering about, looking at the structure of the hills to the south, and possible routes up to them. The bowl under Sermikasik (complete with prominent ledge cutting across its upper face) with its seracs wasn't one of them, and the pinnacled buttress at the back wasn't territory for the solo climber.
Duncan and Ian set off up the valley to look at "A" Buttress opposite point 1300. Starting with scrambling (VD) to a vegetated terrace they found an excellent ~665m E3 "Bone Idyll, and re-christened the area "Bone machine Buttress". The route arrived at the head of the buttress as it turned into a shallow ridge. Descent was a zig-zag to the left, abseiling to a terrace, then traversing off to the right to the col under "B" Buttress, and finally down the snow on our fixed ropes. Steve and Rob went to try a previously seen line on the right side of "A", but it wasn't as good as it looked from below, and they retreated after being repulsed by a horrible, wet, flared off-width. The others (AL, JV, AN, JOR) headed up the valley to the first tarn, through the familiar boulder choke, to prospect for shorter routes on the buttress (later, "Fat City Buttress") to the left of the boulder choked gully. This was on the face directly above the western side of the tarn, and used an ancient rubble cone to approach.
Ominously, cloud appeared over the Torssukatak spires as the evening advanced.
Fri 23^rd July: The day started with steady rain, and no wind, which continued to 17:00 and then remained darkly cloudy with a cloud base of ~900m. The leader spent the day reading under his boulder and contemplating the bright green lichens, with the drip points advancing ever closer to the bivi bag, but not quite making it. The most foul day of the trip by far. Meanwhile, back in the Big Brother Tent, the tent mates were having a fraught day as the tent turned into a leaky water bed - a spring had emerged in the shallow depression the main tent was in and like all Englishmen defending their castle, a moat was scraped out. Moods were at their lowest ebb, Ian and Scott peg a route on the Bar Boulder "If it's not raining, it's not training" A2.
Sat 24^th July: A darkly overcast morning with a hint of drizzle in the air. The base camp residents emerged, desperate for activity, though not climbing. Ian, Anna and Julie went off Eagle watching. Steve, Scott, Duncan and Rob went fishing, final score; Steve 5, Scott 1, Duncan 0 & Rob 0. Steve demolishes yet more fishing kit.
Over in the west, the Leader, determined to do something useful, after all, it could clear up and the pigs take off, rose early and set off south down the coast to check out possible approaches to the ridge, and possibly the southern tip of the island. The going was fairly easy close to the shore along to a small rocky point backed by a lagoon, then came the vegetable and rock garden of the outflow of the next corrie south. Though nothing could be seen of the ridge, it had an intriguing inner corrie behind an arm terminated in 3 squat, bulging towers - the "Fat boy towers". Proceeded along the shoreline under the towers to a perched, roofed boulder - the weather having turned showery. Coastal walking here was no easy matter - to proceed meant going up and over "Black Gull Bluff" with its resident colony of the birds. The journey was like one long escape from the top of Gogarth -2 km of it, complete with waterfall crossings, but eventually opened out into a vague bay where a low point in the ridge could be seen. Much more Gogarth could be seen going around the next point below height 820m, so Dave returned to the bivi boulder, suitably saturated from the waist high willow thickets.
Sun 25^th July: Clouds clearing out in the early morning, a strong breeze from the north - could this be the start of better things? Rob and Duncan left to check out "Fat City Buttress", and put up "Dr. Gonzo's Deviations", E2 5a,5b,5c,5a,- descending "Al's ramp" to the left. There are further good looking lines here, but gear could be sparse. Steve, Julie and Anna left for a 7.5 hour circuit through "our" valley, round via the large lake in the north, and back by the main "Antonio" valley. Scott and Ian were top-rope practising some mean looking routes on the "Druid boulder" near base. Al and Jenny tried to further unravel the maze of gullies below the Baron.
Escaping from the bivi boulder, Dave charged up the boulder slope behind, aiming for the low point in the ridge south of the Berkeley Peaks. A long dogleg open couloir tight under the right hand buttress, led to a boulder bowl, and a slope up to a shoulder on the ridge leading to the first pinnacle on its way to Sermikasik. Just clung to the east flank of the pinnacle a few metres below the top where the rock was of adequate thickness - the rock being all made of the area's worst orange, crumbly, gneiss/granite. Probably pretty solid on the large scale... There was another couple of pinnacles before the main, spearhead shaped summit, but retreated (no rope) from the abseil off the first. The walls to the west dropped sheer into the Sermikasik bowl, but the east flank was more broken and by descending a scree funnel for ~80m, and traversing, another gully could be ascended towards the next gap. Vague terrace lines tempted one onto traversing, round to another bottomless gully - instead, hard scrambling on dubious rock took Dave to the shattered ridge. Here the spearhead summit tower started with a obvious (not for a soloist) diagonal line of basalt holds on the vertical wall, heading round to the left, but an airy, narrow ledge system prominent in the view from the bivi, took him out across the face. This ended near the far side of the spear in a vertical dike of jammed (?) boulders and no sensible way to the summit. Further on, anyway, the ridge dropped considerably and wove about before ending in another serious obstacle. The good conditions having gone, Dave returned to the familiar boulder but it merely spitted with rain. On wandering about, met Karel and Helena out for a few days, planning on heading north around the coast as far as they could - unlikely much beyond the most western point in that direction.
Mon 26^th July: Another bright start to the day. Dave headed south and entered the corrie bounded by the Fat Boy towers. The multi-topped summit at the back of the Sermikasik bowl was revealed to consist of a number of giant pinnacles in a staggered line, riven by deep jammed boulder gullies - the "tower hamlets" at the top left of this corrie. The final tower was heavily pinnacled, and the ridge descended over more of the things to a small col at the top right of the corrie (the aerial picture shows even more complexity, as the main ridge forks). Though the bulging apron at the back of the main corrie looks inviting, on climbing up into the hidden snow bowl of the inner corrie, the face ended in a terrace from which very broken rock seamed with steep loose gullies continued up.
The ridge line, curving round from the Fat boy towers to form the SW ridge of the main hill there, was further riven with boulder gullies. The peak dropped in the SE corner of the corrie has a narrow triangular clean face that could be of interest, and there was a deep corner fault line up to the "col". Once on the "easy angled" slab of the corner, the compact, water worn rock, covered with broken material and streams say if you scramble up, you won't come down. However, away out on the left face, vegetated ledges and gullies allowed me to scramble to a point on top of the slab just 10m horizontally from the col. To continue involved swinging down and under a 50cm detached cube of rock on the slab, holding onto it. Just say no - there wasn't to be much progress southwards anyway - the peak was steep sided, and the narrow ridge beyond continued to a larger, difficult looking hill. The clouds were gathering over the Torssukatak spires again so a retreat to the bivi boulder - some good scree running down into the first spots of rain. Returned over the Pussy Cat couloir col in increasingly persistent showers, to be met at base by 19:00 by Duncan.
Duncan and Al had just returned from the Baron via the North-east ridge. They had started up the long "B" Gully on snow, taking the left branch higher up (Grade I) above a waterfall (outflanked on the right), to arrive at a col between the Butler and the Mark. They climbed the middle of two peaklets, heading south and descended into the snow bowl on the western side, and contoured round and up to the col between the Butler and the Baron, where they found the remains of an old bivi site. The original intention had been a route on the Butler, but this was much more broken on this side than the good-looking easterly face. Instead, they ascended a long scree slope on the NE of the Baron, accessing a snow couloir between the Baron and the finger to the east - the Baron's Appendage. They scrambled out of the top of this to the summit, meeting the rain on top. Returning to the bivi Col Duncan, acting on a hunch that the reconnaissance of the gullies was correct, descended the gully to the east for 100m to reach a grass terrace on the left. They then followed this reasonably consistent ledge round below the Butler, crossing two gullies, one with a snow field, to end up in "B" (the Mark) gully below the fork - this is the best approach from the east.
Rob and Steve had repeated "Red Arse, White Rasta" on Black Fly Buttress, confirming the grade. Scott and Ian headed up the valley past the narrows, and scrambled up the broken, slabby buttress to the east, with the intention of a route on the western shoulder of Consolation point with its red wall, the prominent feature on the skyline from base. The lower buttress proved time consuming, leading to an apron of slabs below the wall proper - after 5 pitches of up to 5b, Ian had a massive hands/fist jamming 5c pitch on the main wall, whereupon the rain could no longer be ignored. Hence they retreated from "Unfinished Business" E3. Trying a more direct descent, southwards from the foot of the slabs, ate more time ensuring an 11pm return.
Tue 27^th July: Morning mist came and went, but the high level cloud and on/off rain or drizzle continued all day at base, with a cold wind from the south. Yet another rest day, with much pegging, rurping and sky hooking aid traverses under the Bar boulder. Karel and Helena still away on the western side of the island. There really isn't any point in exploring high since you can't see anything. Leader treats those present to a moderately hot curry.
Wed 28^th July: Not again! More drizzle and low mist patches so yet more pegging and dangling under shelter. By lunch it seemed to be lifting so in desperation so Ian, Scott and Julie crossed the river (by now we were going for the 30sec numbing wade) to "Nana Buttress" on the rock spur opposite, where Julie led her first new route in the wet, "Nana Disco". Dave and Duncan went back up to Fat City Buttress to try a variation start, but the mist dropped onto the crag by the time they arrived, and it was dripping in the restarted drizzle so they slid off down the steep "grass" back to base camp, totally dejected. Needing to take it out on something, Rob, Dave and Duncan went down to the fjord for a late afternoon fishing session with hand lines (rod and reel by now destroyed!), each catching a nice sized Char (the largest at 2lb). Karel and Helena had not been able to get far round the northern coast of the island due to the expected rock dropping straight into the sea. Hence they had returned by the afternoon on gentle snow over the much easier Baroness Col leading into the upper reaches of "our" valley - of course, being unable to see anything. By 11pm the low cloud had disappeared to give a clear view of the peaks and a little high level cloud.
Thu 29^th July: Omens for a long route were poor, by now dry but with a continuous sheet of high cloud and windless. However, by 9-30 it started to break with sunshine so Al and Anna headed for Upper Fat City Buttress, with Rob and Steve for Lower Fat City - who returned late from a hard variation, "Dr. Gonzo's Deviations (variation)", E1 (E2) and awkward descent. Karel and Helena headed up the valley with camping gear for 3-4 days, intending to do some unroped climbing on peaks above the 2^nd tarn. Two teams set off for the Baron Col with differing objectives, Ian and Scott taking a night's bivi gear and making a start on the left hand side of the south wall of the Baron and round onto the west face. After 4 pitches, they had had enough of big loose flakes, and returned to the col at 10pm, leaving "Baron Munchausen" E3.
Meanwhile, Dave and Duncan travelling much lighter, having turned right, had gone for the east ridge of the "Baron's Appendage" - a pointed peak that looked like the Baron's summit from below, but was some 100 lower and connected to the main mass by a knife edge, almost level ridge. From below it seemed easy angled and a good afternoon's sport. A 150m of scrambling, with the odd 4c-5a step, up a steep shallow couloir took them to a ledge on the ridge and the start of the climbing proper. The ridge was much steeper and harder than suggested, right from the start. After 5 pitches, arrived at the right end of a terrace leading to an open bowl/couloir below the neck of the connecting knife-edge ridge. The top they'd been heading for, wasn't, and so as time was passing (18:00), with 3-4 more pitches of hard climbing to go, bagged it. Then nervously scrambled and abseiled over the overhangs in the couloir, down and across the face to drop back into the starting couloir, leaving "Drop the Dead Donkey", E2. A racing descent to camp at 20:30 met Julie, who after having spent the day walking the circuit of "our" valley, returning along the main fjord, was now heading up to the Baron Col to join the bivi.
Fri 30^th July: The fox came very close in the night, walking over the ramp of planks, no doubt due to the biodegradable waste bin having been left open. Clear, frosty, still morning and Karel and Helena returned to pick up some climbing gear in order to continue operations in the area between the Butler and Mark, camping near the 1^st tarn. Ian, Scott and Julie spent much of the day relaxing on the Baron col, and witnessed an undignified rush to the Baron walls by two more British expeditions that had just arrived.
Duncan and Dave packed two nights of bivi supplies, and headed up the valley with the intention of proceeding through the valley to the northern end of the ridge that extended from "Pisstake peak". They would look for some medium length route to do on the way over the col. The snow over the narrows in the river was much more dangerous, with larger crevasses and thinning away at the edges. The water level in the upper tarns had noticeably dropped. The small crag to the right of the narrows could offer some easier single pitch routes, but we were more interested in a discontinuous line of thin cracks that were on the right side of the right wing of "B Buttress, offering perhaps 3-5 pitches. However these were still wet so we moved on, the North west view of "Pisstake peak" opening up above a large apron of broken slabs. The two main peaks are quite distinct with a large bowl below Consolation point and an interested big wall rising out of it to the summit. The blunt ridges are typically pinnacle infested - the side profile of one is distinctly precarious when seen from the NE. The secondary peak is actually a trinnacle.
Very tiring boulder hopping led to the col, past 4 tarns, where the going miraculously turned to short, cropped turf and gravel. The hills to the west are very broken and not very promising for climbing - the continuous high level ridge to the right offers a wealth of possibilities as it falls in steep white-grey walls into the valley. The furthest end is the most striking from a distance, where a massive shield of beautiful brick red granite, some 600m high rises sheer to the summit. Further on, seemingly terminating the ridge, is a red tower some 400-500m high, "stuck" to the side as an afterthought. It looked like there was no "easy" way up onto the ridge, but dropping into the open northern plains and rounding the tower, we could see an open snowy couloir and a gentle NE ridge that we hadn't imagined. The tower ended in shorter, bulging walls on this side. It was too late in the day for the length of route the area offered, so we checked out the boulders or wandered over the plains, finding a foxes' den with hidden cubs on route, to a perch above the sea. The plains were a rich source of Boletus mushrooms, which went into the pot. A good spot to rest and watch a ship heading for a collision course only to disappear into the hidden harbour of Augpilagtoq.
Sat 31^st July: Out on the northern end of the island it had been the coldest night yet with frost on the bivi bag. A clear start, but with a perturbing veil of cirrus creeping over (remaining largely clear to the north). We ascended the couloir/slope to a bowl below the NE ridge, with a short ridge out to the Red Tower, and from there to a shoulder on the left. Scrambling up broken slabs led to a short headwall and chimney, emerging on a plateau with a big snow-field. The 1030m summit further south looked like the Moroccan desert with decomposing red granite boulders and we named it "Red Tor" due to its southerly aspect (forming the top of the Red Wall) looking like a Dartmoor tor. The ridge onwards was like no other - a broad plateau of flat stones rising onto the next top. However, the crux of the day interrupted this in the form of "Almer's leap" - a cleft sliced the plateau with a crumbly 12m neck bridging the sides, 8m down. Grim 5a climbing, with rope drag, out of the leaning corner crack gave the route a "D" grading.
At the next top, it became a true ridge. A cairn on "Los Capitanos" indicated that the Germans of 2001 had been here. By now, the cloud above and south had thickened to give the worry of an approaching front, though it began to break up late in the afternoon. Thereafter was "proper" scrambling involving a rock bridge into the chimney onto the next summit at ~1100m, now "KMC peak" for the club. Next along was the Pt1300 secondary peak - things turned nasty here. We were on a dog-leg in the ridge which dipped sharply, narrowed, proceeded south over a small top and ran as a toothed, knife-edge into the bulging base of the secondary peak. Even the flanking terraces had run out. This was turn around, since we'd decided we would turn back or escape before the going turned really hard, and there was the thought of the thieves back at base drinking the last of the alcohol supplies. The vague hope of completing the full traverse dropped, we more or less retraced our steps, using bypasses on the east, down and back through the valley, where the going was much faster this time.
From the Big Brother tent, Al and Jenny had perspired their way up SOB couloir and cut down the NE flank into the main valley. The rake system was not as easy to trace going this way. They returned by the standard route down the main fjord side and over the neck of land to Eagle Bay. Steve, Rob and Anna had set off with the intention of repeating the NE ridge of the Baron and joined forces with Karel and Helena in starting up "B" Gully, but missed the terrace and most turned back soon after reaching the ridge. Later, Dave and Duncan met Karel & Helena at the head of the fixed ropes after 1hr 40 from the ridge end. Karel had turned back in the gully, ill, so Helena had finished the day off with a solo ascent of the peak to the NW of the 4 tarns. Leaving the fixed ropes for Karel to collect as they had further plans, we had a knee-buckling descent to the 1^st tarn where a last peaceful meal was cooked. And no, the remaining alcohol had not been broached by our return at 20:30.
Sun 1^st Aug: A bright and sunny day with a relaxed start. Duncan, Anna and Steve headed out for some unfinished business on upper Black Fly Buttress and climbing in mixed pairs, as the ledge systems allowed, completed "Stevie's Spider Spanking" 105m E3 5b,4b,5c. Meanwhile, Scott, Ian and Julie were finishing a project on the lower buttress producing "Mustn't Crumble" E2. Karel and Helena had camped back up the valley to allow them to try a route leading up to above the Baroness Col area, starting from the top of B gully. They reported 5.10b climbing and recounted (on the following day) an anxious abseil descent with the rock strewn ledges forcing many short abseils, and a very close encounter with a falling rock. Back at base, Dave, Rob and Jenny made a start on preparing for departure, carting 8 barrels to the beach. The solar panel frame was dismantled and its wood joined the growing mound of flammable items. The evening required the last call home, and it was well rounded off by the bonfire at 11pm. No fireworks but we made do with bags of ready brek, flour and rye bread in stove fuel - the fire raged past midnight.
Mon 2^nd Aug: Thick fog commenced the day at 6-30am, but Karel & Helena had returned in the night. Leaving day! Dave made a start on transporting stuff down to the beach and the morning transformed into a scene of frenetic activity. The main tent was emptied, and the pile of barrels and packs on the beach, comfortably above the tide, grew. On checking with Niels by phone, we found we had at least an extra hour as the boat was having a cable replaced on the engine. The latrine was filled in and fire pit cleaned up, while the Grease trap was dismantled, and the biodegradable waste was buried. A good drying day with clear, crisp conditions and a keen breeze, so all the tents could be packed away dry. All were down on the beach by 1pm, the original time, while I performed a final inspection and picked up a few bits of litter. While we were waiting for the boat, a local in a dinghy laid and pulled in some nets in the bay, complete with a small seal hanging over the gunwale - perhaps a cause of the cairn on the beach?
At 2pm a fine bow wave was seen coming up the fjord, past the new large "bergs drifting in - the "Ketil" had arrived. We quickly set to, shifting things to the water line 30m away. Two were away in the first dingy trip to set up a loading chain via the stern, whilst with the flooding tide, the Ketil was able to nudge in to shore where a precariously greasy rock was conveniently situated at the waters edge. With a human chain loading via the bow, we were away within 20 minutes. It was saddening to leave our fjord, particularly with "Pisstake" peak making the parting gesture. The return journey was closer inshore and with very much less ice about, took ~2.5 hours, even though the boat wasn't at its best with a distinct vibration denoting a chipped propeller. Niels was waiting at the pier with the comment that the supermarket closed in 15 minutes - Scott ran for the beers whilst the rest unloaded, the tourist office truck taking the heavy stuff the short distance to the warehouse. We had eager assistance from a great bunch of kids, who were able to resume their game of bombing into the sea in wet suits, once the "Ketil" had left the pier. Retrieved our valuables from Niels and retired to the Youth Hostel to cook there. Naturally the evening was rounded off by a cheery evening in the Hotel Kap Farvel bar.
Tues 3^rd Aug: A fine sunny day and a happy few were off to the warehouse at 8am. Niels reminds us to keep the Gas cylinders locked away - he had just had one taken from his garden, likely by kids. The barrel contents were emptied and sorted, leaving the cheaper consumable items like plastic sheet and saw. It was all repacked, listing the contents in a notebook for Customs purposes, squeezing in the Benzin bottles. It all just fitted into our 12 barrels. The two large barrels were important for the main tent and long items like the ice axes. Our spare food was either taken up to the Youth hostel to possibly use over the next few days, or piled into the loaned barrels. However, some worthwhile bags of trail mix ingredients and so on were pushed into the freight to be distributed at home. Any spare food we have when we leave, would not be thrown away, but would go to a good cause as Niels would pass it on to the local house for the destitute.
The Cape Farewell Irish Sea Kayaking team returned while we were in the warehouse - they had been round the coast of Pamiagdluk, and the ferry came in, creating quite a local event with Niels there to meet it. Finished by lunch and time to join in the shopping, sightseeing and relaxing. Shopping started at the tourist office in which Niels sold a number of things - some returned with Greenland Mosquito Buster caps, which may see action at Stanage. The Nanortalik museum is worth a look. Another evening spent in the friendly atmosphere of the hotel bar, with more in the shape of the Irish to partner the locals on the dance floor.
Wed 4^th Aug: A cold, misty start with few of the team about (the last retired at 5-30am!). Dave off to settle up with Niels, paying by a mixture of cash and credit card. Some members had been asked to contribute by bringing a large bundle of Danish Kroner. Last step was to see the return freight on its way, Niels handing over the delivery note, and calling up the local freight office. Rob and I hastily stuffed a last item or two into the barrels as a JCB turned into the warehouse, and then trotted after it to the Royal Arctic Line terminal. There, with a mixture of pointing to paper and Danish, managed to get it booked on a ship to Aalborg, Denmark, from where Blue Water would take it forward.
We cleared out the Youth Hostel at 2pm, leaving more bags of excess supplies for the good cause, and Niels kindly ferried our bags to the Heliport. On checking in, 3 of us were charged for 4-5kg of excess luggage, even with some weight equalisation, but then we did have some left over food for the next day amongst us, such as the never ending cereal bars. The flight on a 25 seat S61 helicopter was dull in comparison to our arrival, though the extra sight seeing circuit around a spectacular waterfall was a nice touch. Back at Narsarsuaq, the warden met us with a pickup in which our bags were transported to the Youth Hostel, leaving us to walk the easy 700m. The Hostel is "modern" and well equipped with cooking facilities, but we all took a break and tried the hotel cafeteria - not to be particularly recommended.
Thu 5^th Aug: Bright and sunny dawn, Dave and Duncan were up early to take the climbing kit for a walk up the valley on the well used trail to the glacier, with the intention of locating something to climb. The best looking rock happens to rise out of the other side of the glacial river! The path is well used and has completely unnecessary fixed ropes! The rock is not suitable for climbing - too much glacial polish shining in the sun near the river. Others joined us later, while more just wandered about near the Hostel. Rob and Steve hired mountain bikes and headed towards the glacier (walking the last km's). Their return ride saw the second "accident" of the trip when Steve went over the bars. Back for "Happy 2 hours" in hotel bar - Carlsberg down from 37 to 27Dkr, then it was back to the hostel for the ritual burning of Duncan's scabby trousers in the Barbecue. Cue a good display of the Northern Lights for those still awake (the nights aren't dark enough in July).
Fri 6^th Aug: Another bright day with high level cloud - time to repack and clean out. The hostel did do a ferrying run for luggage though most carried theirs. Were followed into the terminal building by an unusual Police and Security presence - later an executive jet landed and the Airport relaxed a while later. Killed time checking the souvenir shop, but with the Blue Ice Café closed there's not much to do. We were squeezed through the security gate in the "lounge" - they have just the one X-ray facility - and straight out to the plane. A very hot return flight to Copenhagen, arriving late evening. In order to catch the last beers at the hostel, this time, the first out elected to take taxis (~140Dkr for a 10min. ride). The final group, suffering from delayed luggage, arrived by Metro much later.
Sat 7^th Aug: Our bodies need acclimatisation to heat and humidity - most members are in a coma and few enact the plan to explore Copenhagen. Leaving a "corpse" in the grass outside the Hostel, Dave checked out the local vast Nature Reserve, whilst 4 went into town. At this point, say "Goodbye" to Karel & Helena who are flying home that afternoon.
Sun 8^th Aug: Another early departure from the Youth Hostel, 8 by taxi, 2 by direct bus (20mins longer). Return to a hot and sticky UK and our cars, to head our separate ways up the busy M6 & M1 - easily the worst travel stage on the hottest day of the year. Expedition Over - now for the mopping up operations. Back to timeline.