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Karabiner Mountaineering Club

Bowden Black

By Derek Seddon

Up the mountain face and down the ski slope

Bowden (Bow) Black who has died aged 72, was for 60 years an active mountaineer - rock climber, fell-walker and skier.

Bowden Black Bowden Black

The epitome of northern out-door club life, he helped found the Karabiner Mountaineering Club, based in Manchester, and the Rossendale Ski Club in Lancashire, becoming a driving force in both.

Introduced to the Peak District at the age of 12, he climbed Cader Idris at 13, the start of a fascination which never left him. During the war he was a seaman on one of the four-funnel destroyers which the Americans had transferred to the Royal Navy under the lend-lease arrangements. The old tub dating from the first world war, spent more time in dock for repairs than it did at sea and Bowden volunteered for the Fleet Air Arm - a very high risk occupation. He was sent to Canada for flight training, caught pneumonia after a snow bound cross-country run and eventually had his passing out parade on VJ Day, as Japan surrendered. Back home he was soon rock climbing again, seconding Pete Harding on the first ascent of Valkyrie, a superb very severe route on the Roaches, Staffordshire. Gradually he built up an encyclopaedic knowledge of routes, holds and techniques on the gritstone crags, never missing a weekend although - as a bank clerk in those stiff and formal days - he worked on Saturday mornings. Dressed in a suit jacket for appearances above the counter, he wore climbing breeches below, for a quick take-off for the hills at closing time. He made his first pair of skis in the kitchen with tyre inner tubes for safety bindings. When ex-army skis became available, he grasped the opportunity and joined the earliest days of popular skiing in the Lake District (Where before you skied you first dragged half-a-mile of ski-tow up the mountain), or in Scotland which required a 350-mile motor bike ride with two pairs of skis lengthways and his wife Millie on the pillion.

Bowden Black and John Hunt

The Karabiner Mountaineering Club was founded in 1944 as a mixed group for working men and women when the established clubs tended to be mainly for single-sex professionals. It was also happy to accept beginners and offer them training in the sport. Bowden was secretary for nine formative years, in which time he patiently guided scores of tyros through there first faltering scrabbles on rock and gave them with some of his enthusiasm. His gift was to pass on his view that life was fun and could be exciting. Though not a hard climber by modern standards he was a life long enthusiast, achieving one ambition by climbing Central Buttress on Scafell and Dream of White Horses on Gogarth at the age of 58.

Millie Black

Millie his wife for 40 years, had a taste for long-distance fell-walking and was the first woman to complete the 126-mile Tan Hill to Cat and Fiddle, joining the two highest inns in England. Bowden was the organiser and navigator for this and her subsequent Snowdon to Brecon (120-miles) and the Scottish fours, linking all the 4,000ft peaks in Scotland _ Millie's record as the only woman to complete this stood for 30 years. Once a year for about seven years he would leave Millie behind for a week and race down to the south of France to climb on the great cliffs of St Victoire, Provence, visit the local vineyards and replenish his wine cellar, His companion o these excursions, did not drive: so Bowden drove the whole way from Bury to Provence overnight and ditto on the return with his boot full.

Millie died in 1994 after a long struggle against cancer, tended devotedly by Bowden, man of action turned gentle carer. Afterwards he suffered a succession of illnesses which depleted his physical powers until, only weeks ago, he admitted his climbing days were over and even walking became difficult as his balance was affected: but he still appeared at the pub to talk to new young club members, advising, encouraging and telling tall tales.

Bowden Black Bowden Black in Canada

The end fitted the man. He was on holiday in Vancouver, visiting old climbing friends: after a day in that beautiful city and its local hills, he was playing the piano for a sing song at a party when he suffered a stroke, from which he never regained consciousness. He leaves a daughter and two grandchildren.

Arthur Bowden Black, climber, born August 27, 1924; died May 6, 1997


Extracts from the Guardian newspaper obituaries
1997