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Karabiner Mountaineering Club

Midweek Meets

Please read the following if you are considering coming along to one of our meets:

BMC Participation Statement

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."


Over summer 2005 the KMC had mid-week Climbing meets at local crags every Wednesday evening, weather permitting. Crags for each week were nominated by those keen people who actually got out and climbed the week before.

We also have the lists of mid-week meets (and any reports from them) for these other years: 2003, 2004, 2006, 2007 2008


Summer 2005 Midweek Evening Meets

April 20th Hobson Moor
 
April 27th Wilton 1
After the perfect weekend weather, it started off a bit grim in the morning but held OK for an evening climb on the famous inside face of the Prow at Wilton 1. Dave...... who is just starting to get going again after a long lay off led Rambling route V Diff, glad he tested the quality of the rock first.

Then Scott took us up the crack and along the traverse of Eliminate VS. John then led up the horribley green looking Severe, Bird Chimney but found it much better than it looked. Scott finished the evening in style with Dawn Left Hand E2 "a bit thin at the top!", really impressed Dave and John. When the midges started eating us (In April!!!!) John departed to his local. Soon followed by Scott and Dave, who went for a quick pint in the Wilton arms.

Unfortunately only 3 people turned up to enjoy the sunshine. Scott Sadler, Dave Bailey and John Cox.


May 4th New Mills Torrs
 
May 11th Troy Quarry
More than 15 people turned up at Troy Quarry for this evening meet, including: Scott Sadler, Dave Dillon, Trish Cranston, Karen, Rob Allen, Vicky Alderton, Duncan Lee, Lester Payne, Mark Ashley, Roger Daley, John Cox, Dan O'Brien and Dave Wylie.

Many quality routes were ticked, including both Siamese Twins and the Arete; Overlooked Crack (where John Cox demonstrated how to make a perfect, spectacular, leader fall); One Way Street, Open Sesame, etc., etc.

A superb evening, followed by a quick drink in Scott's local, the Griffin Inn in Haslingden.


May 18th Castle Naze
 
May 25th Wimberry Edge in the Chew Valley
Five people (and one dog) turned out this evening. They didn't actually make it all the way up to the main crag, as they were distracted by all the bouldery goodness lower down.

Many of the boulder problems were attempted and, in most cases, solved. The claim was even made that all the problems listed in the guide for the "Sugar Loaf" boulder had been conquered.

Further up the hill, however, on "Shell Shot", one problem proved to have a harder than expected finish. Roger Daley lost traction about 15 feet up on a 4c move. Fortunately he escaped with only abrasion injuries, as the superb friction between the gritstone and his leg slowed the descent.

The final boulder, the "Matterhorn", proved to have some excellent problems, including an easy but superb arete. As was often the case, the descent from the top proved to be more unnerving than getting up there in the first place...

An excellent evening's bouldering, but not a large turnout. Where was everyone else? Wimps, the lot of them!


June 1st Running Hill Pits
June 15th Staden Quarry
June 22nd Harpur Hill
 
July 13th Pule Hill
It was third time lucky for meeting at this crag, as the previous two Wednesday evenings were too wet for climbing. Bonus marks go to Dave Dillon and Trish Cranston a fortnight ago, as they turned up in the mist and drizzle (but these marks were then forfeited as they didn't climb, but just went to the pub!).

This time round, the conditions were very pleasant. Not as hot as the previous couple of days, with a good breeze to keep the midges at bay. However, this same breeze actually attracted some larger flying entities: namely half a dozen paragliders, who seemed to be having a great time floating around above us as we climbed!

There was quite a good turn out, with ten people turning up from the KMC: Al Metelko, Scott Sadler, Mark Ashley, Dave Wylie, Trish Cranston, Karen Kennedy, Roger Daley, Lucy Bell, Jamie Findlow and John Cox. There were at least two other climbers (not associated with the KMC) out enjoying the evening as well.

There are many routes at Pule Hill in the lower grades. However, it seems that either some of us have forgotten how to climb on Grit, or the grades are of the Yorkshire variety. "Amen", "The Swinger", "Pilot Crack", "Blind Buttress" and "Coffin Corner" are all listed as V-Diff, but they proved harder than expected. Some of them proved impossible to ascend cleanly (or at all, for that matter). The "hard men" in the group (i.e. Al and Scott) merrily soloed their way round the crag, leaving the rest of us to have fun failing to do the "unusual" moves required on "Pilot Crack" or swinging our way off the hand traverse on "The Swinger".

Despite the "fun" descibed above, plenty of routes were climbed successfully and everybody seemed to have a great time. Off to one of the local pubs afterwards for refreshment and the election of next week's crag.


July 20th Helsby
A very brief meet report from Wavey Dave:

Helsby was dry and fun. Not how I seem to remember it. Perhaps a little like Wadi Rhum.


July 27th Summit Quarry

Over half a dozen people turned up at Summit Quarry for this evening's meet, including: John Cox, Dave Wylie, Al Metelko, Dave Dillon, Trish Cranston, Roger Daley, Jamie and a new face, Gary Cook.

Dave W. led "Starters" for starters. It is only Diff, but it revealed some of the characteristics of the climbing: no gear, lots of vegetation and some suspect rock at the top of the routes (held together by grass).

Al set off on some soloing escapades, as per usual.

John began to lead "Disorder", but abandoned it when it became clear that this route had very little opportunity for gear placements. The next route, "The Crab" definitely did have some gear potential, being a pair of cracks. However, as these were overhanging with yet more vegetation, John gave up trying to lead and, declaring that it was more like E1 5b than VS, a top-rope was set up. This resulted in ascents of the route and the neighbouring "Layback Crack" which, at VS 5a and relatively clean, seemed a much better route.

Dave D. successfully led "Disorder" and Trish followed him, by which time this Author was leaving the quarry. Few further details of climbing have been received, but it seems that at least a couple of other routes were led. The Author and John headed off to Roy and Ivy Lee's Garden Party which, although less well attended than previous years, proved to be significantly more pleasant than the quarry!

So, what will be the venue for next week? Only Dave W. and John attended both the climbing and the nominated apres-meet venue, but John declined to nominate a crag as he won't be around next time. That left it up to the Author to pick somewhere and so a list of potential horror-shows was dug out. Fortunately the remaining climbers later suggested a suitable crag, so don't blame the Author if Horseshoe Quarry is not to your liking!


August 3rd Horseshoe Quarry
August 10th Egerton Quarry
 
August 17th Rough Knarr

A dozen climbers turned up for this evening's meet: three Daves, Trish, Alex, Ellie, Al, Robert, Jamie, Lester, Roger and Scott.

The quarry itself is not the most inviting place, as a large amount of debris (mostly rubble and wood) have been dumped there and there is vegetation on some of the routes. The guidebooks are not as helpful as they ought to be: the older Lancs guide (yellow cover) seems to have combined all three of the bays into one, so none of the routes match up! The new guide (the huge black tome) is a much better bet. Even so, this guide claims that the quarry is "West Facing" when in fact it looks East, so didn't get any of the evening sunshine.

Everyone headed into the Third Bay where the best routes were supposed to be. As it turned out, the rock itself (after a bit of weeding) was very good and the routes proved very enjoyable for most of those present.

The most popular routes seemed to be "Delph" (V-Diff), "Dobcross" (Severe, 4a), and "Fireman`s Lift" (Severe, 4a). Roger also led something approximating to "Diggle" (VS, 5a), though it remains unclear as to whether he stuck exactly to the line! Scott and Al soloed most of the above and probably several other routes as well.

After all of this, the team headed off to the nearby "Old Original" pub for a quick drink and to decide the next evening venue.


August 24th Wormstones
September 7th Wilton 3
September 14th Denham Quarry
September 21st Anglezarke
September 28th Hobson Moor

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