Karabiner Mountaineering Club

Midweek Meets

Please read the following if you are considering coming along to one of our meets:

BMC Participation Statement

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."

The regular KMC mid-week evening climbing meets started early in 2008 and a few extra nocturnal ones finished the year off nicely!

We also have the lists of mid-week meets (and any reports from them) for these other years: 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010

Midweek Meets from 2008

February 6th	Helsby
Andy, Chris and Al turned out. Although the day was dry and sunny quiet a lot of the crag was wet and rather slippery especially the easier routes but there again it has been raining for most of January. However the main climb of the night, Flake Crack VS, was dry except for the first few moves off the ground and was done in two pitches. The upper pitch, not in the guide, a steep hanging flake, was easier then the lower pitch. What made the night were the lights stretching from Warrington and Runcorn to the east, Helsby village, Stanlow and Liverpool (doubly so, being reflected off the Mersey) and Birkenhead and Queensferry in the west. Places not usually associated with beauty. A stunning view and probably worth coming here for a walk at night if climbing is not your thing.
February 27th	Windgather
A good night was had, 10 routes ranging from Diff to VS before heading for Len's local and a pint of Old Dog. Attendees: Andy, Martin and Al.
March 5th	Windgather
Despite the strong winds, rain showers and wind chill, 7 routes were completed. Attendees: Andy (I'll climb with one rock shoe), Chris (I'll climb without my head torch) and Al. After turning his car around, Andy spotted his other rock shoe looking back at him, smugly, in the middle of the road. The Pub was The Swan.
March 19th	Windgather
The last winter midweek evening saw a good turnout of Chris, Richard, Martin, Mike and Al climb 11 routes (could also be counted as 15 as later in the evening we split into two teams) and that makes 28 climbs climbed (not including solos) over the 3 outings at Windgather.
April 2nd	Yellowslacks
Not a good turnout at Yellowslacks, guess the walking-in and navigation put most people off. Al did a lot of bouldering/soloing on the many boulders and buttresses all over the hillside for a few hours, only company being hares which where very obvious as they were in camouflage white. Just as he was about to head home, Andy arrived in time for the two of them to do a HVD (4c!) a little after sunset.
April 9th	Hobson Moor
Andy and Al did go to Hobson Moor on the 9th even though most of the crag was wet and green there was enough dry rock to do 2/3 hours of bouldering.
April 16th	Hobson Moor
Chris, Gordon and Al bouldered at a dry but cold Hobson Moor, the emphasis on Mantel Shelving.
April 23rd	Hobson Moor
A fine Wednesday evening tempted a fair number of climbers out to Hobson Moor. Dave W., Al, Richard, Midge, Joanne and Mark came along to the meet to get some routes in. Jo F. and Carl also turned up to climb, but hadn't actually known about the evening meet! Gary also put in an appearance but, being dressed for work, in his suit, he didn't climb. There were also a large number of non-KMC climbers at this popular quarry. Routes included "Amphiteatre Climb", "Pocket Wall", "Epitaph Corner", etc. A lot of boudlering, traversing and soloing of easy routes was also undertaken.
May 7th	Den Lane Quarries
Al, Trish, Mark A., Dave W., James H., Midge, Mark H. and (a different) Gary attended this meet. Not all their climbing kit made it along to the quarry, though. Various new skills were learned, including how to improvise a harness using slings and techniques for getting down from the top of the crag without ring-barking the belay tree. The grades on some of the routes seemed a bit out: 4b at Den Lane definitely seemed harder than 4b at Hobson Moor did a fortnight ago! And, does "S" really stand for "Severe"? Or perhaps it's for "Steep", "Strenuous" - or even "Soil", given the amount of this material in the cracks on at least one route? Routes climbed included Elderberry Slab (HVD), led by both Trish and Dave; Ash Tree Direct (S), led by both of the Marks; Three Notch Slab (MVS, 4c), led by Al; Orchestral Crack (HVS, 5a), led by Gary; Bivouac Route (HVD) - led by Mark A; plus a couple other of routes as well. It was a very enjoyable and rather a fine evening. Most of the team rounded things off at the Cross Keys pub.
May 14th	Troy Quarry (see also the Online Guidebook)
A superb fine evening at Troy Quarry, with Duncan, Vicky, Al, Mark, Dave W., Trish, James, Andy, Mike, Sean and Gary (not in a suit this time!) turning out for the meet. All the usual routes were climbed, including: "Sounder", "Left Siamese Twin", "Right Siamese Twin", "Rapunzle", "Stacked Deck", "Overlooked Crack" (nice lead, Trish!), Duncan's route "Vicky of Tadcaster" "Trojan Horse", etc., etc. The local Mountain Rescue Team were also out, practicing their rescue techniques at the other side of the quarry. At least we hope that this really was a training session, as the screams from their "casualty" seemed very realistic... A sub-group continued climbing till after sunset. Al observed that there was enough moonlight to keep climbing all night, but the team finally headed off to the pub (the "Robin Hood" in Haslinden) for the usual post-escalade drink and selection of the crag for next week.
May 21st	Witches' Quarry (see also the Online Guidebook)
Witches' Quarry is a bit further to drive from Manchester, but it is definitely worth the trip. Superb routes, on mostly sound limestone, in a beautiful area of Lancashire. Excellent weather, too! Duncan Lee, Vicky Alderton, Andy Grantham, Al Metelko, Trish Cranston, Christine, James Hoyle, Mark Ashley, Dave Wylie, Matt Danby, Steve Hill, Mike, Sean and some of the area's local climbers all turned out. Some of the noteworthy points this week: Vital kit forgotten by James this time: rock boots. Fortunately Duncan had a spare pair that could be pressed into service. What will James forget next time? Steve enjoyed his first taste of real rock. Previous climbing had been on the indoor wall over Winter as part of a crowd from Zen Internet that had also included Dave and Matt. Dave finally managed to push his technical grade up by one notch, leading "Witches's Favourite" (HVS, 5a). Most shared cars and everyone took note of the latest BMC Access Notes when parking. The pub was the "Assheton Arms" in Downham. Some photographs from the evening's climbing are in the Picture Gallery. Everybody seemed to have a great time and really liked this crag. It was even suggested that we could go back to Witches' Quarry again next week. However, common sense prevailed (?!) and the pub-goers accepted Vicky's suggestion of Lester Mill Quarry for the next venue.
June 4th	Lester Mill Quarry (see also the Online Guidebook)
Rain on May 28th deterred people from climbing outside (though at least two of the regulars ended up at an indoor wall). James, Kasia, Christine, Chris, Trish, Mike and Al all turned out on the June 4th. Two reports have been received; the first from James: This week I forgot my machete and it took some time to get to Lester Mill Quarry. It then took another hour to find out which bit of rock the guidebook was on about! Most of the routes were heavily, and I mean heavily, vegetated. At least one person commented that they expected to see a T-Rex walk past at any moment. Routes climbed were Oak Tree Direct and Lester's Rib whilst Lester's Eliminate was seconded. Having had enough of the place we crossed the road to Anglezarke where the climbing was much better but the midges were horrific. We got bitten to pieces! The second report is from Al: James, first on the scene, recommended machete and secateurs. Plenty of Jungle bashing got us to base of most parts of the crag, only Evil Buttress and the further reaches of Upper Right Tier repelled attempts to reach their base. After an hour or so of trying to match up guide book description to rock, a number of routes on Lester Buttress where identified and climbed. However, the Golden Tower was spotted, bathed in sunshine, by members taking the longer approach and a group decision was made to do a final route at what turned out to be midge hell at Anglezarke just as the sun was setting over Chorley. Interestingly Vicky never showed, hmm.
June 11th	Harpur Hill
Present: James?, Andy, Trish, Christine, Richard, Chris, Nadia, Al. James arrived at a cold and windy Hapur Hill, though the sun did shine between the slight very intermittent showers. He probably only explored the upper tier not realising there was a more sheltered lower one and fled before hypothermia set in. The rest of the crew arrived a little later and played on the numerous 5's and a 6b on the less exposed lower tier. Climbing went slightly beyond normal daylight hours as the climbing was so good and just made last rounds at the Park Inn.
June 25th	Bamford Edge
James, Kasia, Trish, Mike, Andy, Richard, Bob, Charles, Sean, Al. Beautiful evenings climbing on the edge. Some of the grades on Gun buttress were a little perplexing and there was a slow drift to the more popular areas. As it was one of the longest evenings of the summer we sent Richard to the pub to get a round in before closing time, however this plan failed due to the lack of dosh so when the rest of the team arrived at 11:20 the vote for next week's crag was a bit subdued or it may simply have been past everyone's bedtime.
July 9th	Roy and Ivy Lee's Garden party
It was far too wet to climb this evening, so Dovestones Edge will have to wait for yet another week. However, the Garden Party beckoned instead. As usual for this annual event, a select group from the KMC met up at the Lee Mansion for a (rather damp!) summer evening's get together. Food, drink and chat in abundance. Plants were on sale with everyone's spare cash going to Charity (St. Ann's Hospice).
July 16th	Dovestones Edge
Trish, Christine, James, Chris, Andy and Al. There was enough of a weather window to climb at a rather cloudy and windy, but dry, Dovestones Edge. Even in these conditions many routes were completed and it was still possible to climb till 10pm. However it was raining when we left the pub.
July 23rd	Running Hill Pits
Al Metelko, Christine Stark, Dave Wylie, Mark Ashley, James Hoyle, Kasia Hoyle, Andy Grantham, Gordon, Julie O'Regan, Des Chadderton, Mike Freeman, plus James and Jack (with their non-climbing Dad) turned up on a very warm, fine evening in Running Hill Pits. Everyone converged on the second ("Spanner") quarry to climb routes ranging from Diff up into the E-grades. Quite a lot of midges also joined in the fun, so large quantities of N,N-Diethyl-meta-toluamide were applied in an attempt to repel them. "Plum Line" (VS, 4c, ***) was led by Al, Des and Dave with several of the others following them up the route. Mark did a rather bold lead up "Groove-V Baby" (MVS, 4c, *) which doesn't have any decent protection where it would actually be of any use. "Dusty Arête" (Diff) was dusted off by Dave on a solo ascent. The direct finish of "The Cracks" (Severe, 4a) was rather loose, so those who led it snuck off - to one side or the other - to avoid the detritus. "Paradise Crack" no longer has a large loose block on it, though, as it didn't survive the tender ministrations of the KMC. "Unctious" (Severe, 4a) also saw several ascents. Harder routes climbed included "Pantagruel" (HVS, 5a) and "Gomorrah" (E1, 5b). After the climbing, most of the party retired to the Church Inn for a quick drink. Very good value beer, plus peacocks strutting around! The voting for the next crag was tied at five-all between Millstone and Shaw Quarry. The tie was broken by a round of "Stone, Paper, Scissors". Millstone won.
July 30th	Millstone Edge
Christine, Andy and Al. Once again the proposer of the crag didn't show up! It was a fine evening, until the sun set, and then the dreaded midge made us run away very fast to the Little John in Hathersage.
September 10th	Helsby
After five weeks of wet weather on Wednesday evenings, Helsby has finally been laid to rest. Attendees: James, Chris, Andy, Ben, Geraldine and Al. Great climbing on a sun kissed Helsby, good views, and the sound of the M56 was as waves lapping onto a pebble beach. The nights have drawn in dramatically since the last midweek meet in July, which allowed the party leisurely drinking time in the Ring o'Bells in front of an open fire.
September 17th	Shining Clough
Geraldine, Andy and Al did Phoenix climb. The crag was dry and not green as expected.
September 24th	Denham Quarry (see also the Online Guidebook)
A fine evening at Denham Quarry, with climbing until after dark. In attendance were Dave Wylie, James Hoyle, Al Metelko, Christine Stark, Geraldine de Silva, Chris Williams and (arriving just as the sun set) Andy Grantham. The routes included: "Mohammed the Mediaeval Melancholic" (Severe, 4a), "Concave Wall" (Severe, 4a), "Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits" (VS, 4c), "Low Rib" (V-Diff), "Central Buttress Direct", (V-Diff) plus one or two others. The pub was "The Top Lock" at Heapey.
October 8th	Wilton 3 (see also the Online Guidebook)
Nobody went to Wilton on (the rather showery) October 1st, so the meet was carried over to the 8th, when Dave Wylie, Al Metelko and Christine Stark turned out. There were also a couple of other (non KMC) guys there doing their own climbing - an Andy and another Dave. Nobody from the Bolton Gun Club was around, though, so it was deemed OK to climb in the quarry. Dave arrived first and soloed a few Diffs ("Twin Cracks", "The Slab" and "Unnamed Crack") and also did some traversing around the bottom of the Rappel Wall Area. Al's first lead was "Crooked Crack" (VS,4c), which proved harder than expected - particularly when Dave and Christine tried to follow him up it! Dave then led "Mo" (HS, 4a) which, again, seemed a bit stiff for the grade. Al finished off with a nocturnal lead of "Shivers Arête" (E1,5b). He discovered that, even with a head torch, the holds were rather hard to find in the dark! Christine followed him up the route using illumination borrowed from Dave. The Wilton Arms provided apres-climb refreshments. With only three people to decide on the crag for the next week, the voting was almost immediately unanimous (with Dave's attempt at distraction falling to pieces almost as rapidly as his suggested crag...). After the cloudless skies during the climbing, complete with a half-moon, it was a bit of a surprise to emerge from the pub to find that it had been raining after we'd finished. It looks like we got the timing spot on!
December 10th	Hobson Moor
James Hoyle, Al Metelko, Chris Williams and newcomer Rachel all went to Hobson Moor. It was a crisp night, but the moon provided excellent visibility. Luckily the icy patches weren't on all the routes. Pocket Wall, Heather Corner, The Harp and Parker's Eliminate were all climbed in style; graded from V Diff to HVS. All then top roped Tighes Arete (E1) before retiring to the local to pick another crag.
December 17th	Troy Quarry (see also the Online Guidebook)
Nobody made it out to the quarry on December 17th, so the venue has been carried forward into 2009!