Karabiner Mountaineering Club

Midweek Meets

Please read the following if you are considering coming along to one of our meets:

BMC Participation Statement

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."

It was another very successful summer for mid-week evening climbing by the KMC. There were also a couple of winter meets that occurred after dark; one at the beginning of the year and one at the end.

We also have the lists of mid-week meets (and any reports from them) for these other years: 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010

Midweek Meets from 2009

January 14th	Troy Quarry (see also the Online Guidebook)
James and Duncan arrived at the crag at the same time as the rain, but did Left Siamese twin regardless. After that Duncan headed home whilst James went to MCC to meet up with all the sensible folk. A quick chat in a rain lashed car park resulted in a unanimous vote for a return to Hobson Moor Quarry for the next venue.
April 8th	Hobson Moor
Members: James Hoyle, Dave Wylie, Al Metelko, Bob Kelly. Guests: Rachael Flynn, Angela, Alex, Nicola, Matthew and Perri Wilkinson, Nick Veevers, Tom Makin. This popular location was originally chosen for one of the January nocturnal meets. Unfortunately, poor weather and injury put the kibosh on that plan. April 8th proved to be dry, if a bit cool and breezy. There was a good turnout by the KMC, despite some wimps bottling out saying that it was too windy! Lots of routes were done, from E3 (on top rope) to V Diff, including a selection of the great routes on offer at HS and VS.
April 15th	Wilton 1 (see also the Online Guidebook)
Nick Veevers, Dave Wylie, Trish Cranston, James Hoyle, Kasia Hoyle, Rachel Flynn, Andy Grantham, Mike Freeman, Sarah Natali, Mike Reading. Most of the climbing was on the Prow, in the lower to mid-grades. The climbs included: Rambling Route (V-Diff), which was very pleasant while it was still light, but proved too much to lead after dark. Bird Chimney (Severe, 4a). Eastern Terrace, which seemed much more interesting than its Moderate grade might suggest. A bold lead of Flywalk (VS, 4c) by Rachel. Various attempts on Fingernail (allegedly Severe, 4a), but it repelled all boarders. The "Wilton Arms" provided the post-climbing refreshments. Thanks to the barmaid for supplying a casting vote to break the tie for next week's crag!
April 22nd	Troy Quarry (see also the Online Guidebook)
A huge turnout for this midweek meet: Duncan Lee, Andy Grantham, Kasia Hoyle, Tom Makin, Rachel Flynn, Sarah Natali, Mike Reading, Mark Ashley, Al Metelko, Trish Cranston, Dave Wylie, Steve Hill, Zubber Nabi, Alec Blower, Bob Kelly, Andrew Ketley, Rachel Ketley, Vanja Celebicic, Pete Kossowski. Given that the Mountaineering Club of Bury were also having an evening meet at Troy, things got quite busy! The weather was excellent, being dry and fairly warm, with just a passing breeze to cool things down at one point. Much better than the somewhat abortive attempt for a meet here back in January. Many of the quarry's excellent routes were climbed repeatedly (one route twice by the same team, in at least one case...). Everyone seemed to have a great time, ticking off climbs from their little lists or pushing up their leading grades (well done Kasia!). The pub afterwards was the "Duke Of Wellington", just a couple of hundred yards from the quarry car park.
April 29th	Anglezarke (see also the Online Guidebook)
Another very well attended evening climbing meet. Good weather and, for a change at this location, no problems with midges! Andy Grantham, James & Kasia Hoyle, Tom Makin, Sarah Natali, Mark Ashley, Al Metelko, Trish Cranston, Dave Wylie, Matt Danby, Zubber Nabi, Alec Blower, Bob Kelly, Vanja Celebicic, Pete Kossowski, Christine Stark, Matthew Wilkinson, Carl Pulley and Mark Morris all turned up. The routes included: Alldred's Original (V-Diff) Whittaker's Original (HS, 4a) Meanwhile (S, 4a) Side Step (HS, 4b) Wedge (HS, 4a) Nightmare (VS, 4b) Metamorphosis (VS, 4c) Terror Cotta (HVS, 5a) etc., etc. Hard climber Tom, with a feather in his cap (well, in his helmet) also took Kasia up an E1, 5b route (sorry, I didn't catch its name) - which she "flew up". We'd better keep an eye on our Mrs Hoyle, she'll be leading the E grades soon... The evening almost turned into a "Bring a Colleague Climbing" event: with Dave dragging along Mr Danby from Zen Internet, James' headmaster attending and two people from Bob's work stopping by (though they didn't climb, so don't appear in the list). The pub was the "Millstone", chosen (apparently) because they sell crisps?!
May 6th	Egerton Quarry (see also the Online Guidebook)
Members: James and Kasia Hoyle, Al Metelko, Trish Cranston, Christine Stark Guests: Mike Freeman, Zubber Nabi A rain filled morning finally gave way about lunchtime allowing just about enough time for the crag to dry out before our arrival. The same could not be said for the rather swampy bottom section of the quarry. However this did allow James to drop his mobile from the top of the crag and still find it in full working order! The crag was rather slimy and still seeping in places. Routes were therefore challenging in the conditions. Al led a severe in the Red Wall area whilst the others top roped the 3 star VS 4c route Cherry Bomb. This provided much entertainment and will have had many a washing machine working hard. Most agreed 4c was a bit low in the grade especially in the wet! The pub afterwards was the Flag which we managed to walk into just as Barcelona knocked Chelsea out of the Champions League. The pub had a slightly edgy atmosphere for a while. I didn't realise how many Chelsea fans there are in Bolton! Any how eventually a consensus was sort of reached to try a venue away from Lancashire's quarries and eventually the voters picked Castle Naze in the Peak. Hopefully we will see a return to the fine weather of the last few weeks.
May 13th	Castle Naze
Bob, Charles, Trish, Andy and Al. The whole crag was sheltered from the strong easterly wind and the occasional slight drizzle never made the rock wet or damp. Lots of routes (VDiff to VS) climbed, ending in the gloom to just before 10pm. Bob gets his wings for a 12 footer beating Andy by 10ft. In the pub it was straight vote between Limestone and Grit with the latter winning to 2 palms up to 1 palm down.
May 20th	Running Hill Pits
Members: Al, Trish, Christine and Andy There was some faffing as to whether we were going to climb indoors or out but eventually outdoors won and the above members dutifully turned up for the somewhat damp evening. 2½ routes climbed: Al led Plumb Line (VS 4C) with the others seconding and Andy led Unctious (S 4C) with Christine seconding. Trish attempted Hazy Groove and the Cracks before the worsening conditions persuaded everyone that the pub was a far better bet. After further faffing the Adventurous Four decided to vote on the following week's crag and Harpur Hill won on a toss of the coin.
June 3rd	Harpur Hill
Members: Trish, Al. Nobody reported heading out to Harpur Hill on May 27th and on June 3rd there was a disappointing turnout despite it being a beautiful evening. Both of the members who did make the effort had a struggle on one or two of the 5's in the lower quarry. The pub beckoned once the sun set and the climber next to us took a 30 footer, crashing head to head with his belayer - who it turns out was on the Anglezarke midweek meet in April. He quickly got back on route to finish it. Looks like people are not prepared to travel any distance even though the evenings now are at their longest.
June 10th	Dovestones Edge
Members: James, Trish, Kasia and Al. The slight drizzle didn't deter the group gathered at Binn Green car park, although there were one or two murmurs of indoor climbing. Two teams of two climbed "Central Tower" (VD+) and "Left Embrasure" (VS). One more route Trish led CT (direct, through the bulge) in the rain. We were all in the pub before dark.
June 24th	Windgather
An incredible turnout for this midweek meet! Dave Dillon, Al Metelko, James and Kasia Hoyle, Dave Wylie, Trish Cranston, Andy Grantham, Christine Stark, Pete Kosowski, Vanja, Jess, Amy, Zubber Nabi, Tom Makin, Chris Williams, Bob Kelly, Alex, Paul, Kate, Martin Heaton, Joanne Castick. After bad weather on the 17th resulted in the meet being postponed, the conditions on the 24th were superb. Warm, with lots of lovely evening, sunshine, but a bit of an Easterly breeze to cool off the leaders when they set up belays at the top of the crag. The crag was extremely busy, with many other parties and at least three goups of youngsters (including the Girl Guides that Joanne was leading). The routes climbed by the KMC were, in many cases, selected simply by them being the only un-occupied ones at the appropriate time! These included: Heather Face (HD) Nose Direct (HVD) Traditional (HS, 4a) Aged Crack (S, 4a) Struggle (VS, 4c) Squashed Finger (HVD) Centre (HVD, 3c) Director (VS, 4c) etc., etc.
July 1st	Witches' Quarry (see also the Online Guidebook)
Attendees: Vicky, Duncan, Kieran, Nick, Wavey, Al, Christine, Trish, Andy. The weather pattern for the last week or so was for rain showers late afternoon clearing for the evening. A spectacular display of lightening was had while Wavey and Al were travelling up the M66 around 5:30pm, but little rain. However it was raining as they entered Downham so they had a quick half in the pub there and met up with Nick. Half an hour or so later they were in the Quarry, it looked bone dry and Duncan and Vicky had been bouldering and were just completing the first route. By 10pm the light and the midges stopped play. The pub in Downham was closed when they KMC got there and when they'd all joined up made a quick dash to Chatburn and found the Brown Cow for last orders. Lester Mill and Bamford lost out to Helsby.
Thursday July 9th	Helsby
This week's evening meet was on the Thursday, as it was Roy and Ivy Lee's Garden Party on the Wednesday evening. Attendees: Wavey Dave, Christine Stark, Rachel Ketley, Jo and Mark Furniss, Kasia Hoyle, Zubber Nabi, Pete Blacow and Andy Grantham. Weather was fine and a good evening's climbing was had by all. Routes included: Little by Little (VS, 4b) Flake Crack (VS, 4c) Twin Caves Crack (S, 4b) Eliminate 1 (E1, 5b) Dinnerplate Crack (S, 4b) The pub was the The Railway Inn.
July 15th	Den Lane Quarries
Attendees: Dave Wylie, Trish Cranston, Christine Stark, Chris Williams, Dave Dillon, Pete Kosowski, Amy, Jo and Mark Furniss. Dave W. arrived at the quarries first and spent a while attempting a low-level traverse of Rake Wall. Fortunately, before he'd completely exhausted himself, the jangle of climbing gear from further to the left alerted him to the arrival of more KMC'ers. The main activity of the evening was on Long Wall. The routes here included: Elderberry Slab (V-Diff) Ash Tree Direct (S, 4b) Three Notch Slab (MVS, 4c) Palais Glide (VS, 4c) Mississippi Dip (VS, 4c) Orchestral Crack (HVS, 5a) Christine's ascent of "Ash Tree Direct" was her highest grade lead to date - and only her third ever lead using traditional, leader-placed, gear. Well done Christine! For one route, Pete continued all the way up the slope above the crag - leading to communication problems with Amy, who was to second the route, and a very long walk round to get back down. This did, however, mean that they discovered the (non-climber) gentleman who had slipped at the bottom of the path by the road and damaged his ankle. Assistance, in the form of giving him a lift home, was supplied by the team. Most of the group (with the exception of Dave W. who, by that point, was too tired even to drink) headed to the Pub to select the crag for next week.
July 22nd	Alderman Rocks
Attendees: Kasia, Alex, Jane, Christine, Trish, Rachel, Al. A good evening and a good crop of routes ranging from VDiff to VS. The strong wind at least dried the rock from the earlier rain, kept the dreaded midge at home and the odd shower towards the end of the evening quickly whizzed past. The evenings voting at the Clarence Hotel went to Yorkshire.
August 5th	Heptonstall
It was very wet in the afternoon of July 29th and, although it did brighten up later on, nobody went out to the crag to climb. August 5th, by contrast, was a dry day leading to a very warm and sunny evening. Seven people made it up to Heptonstall: Al Metelko, Jane Atkinson, Dave Wylie, Dave Dillon, Andy Grantham, Christine Stark and Trish Cranston. Two routes, "Fairy Steps" (HS, 4b) and "Trepidation" (VS, 4c) were the main focus of the evening, with Al and Andy leading them both and everyone else following up behind. There was an abortive attempt on "Curving Crack", but fading light meant that a full ascent will have to wait for another day. Jane and Dave W. also did a bit of bouldering on the Cubic Block - mainly on the easy side.
August 12th	Wilton 3 (see also the Online Guidebook)
Members and Guests: Dave Wylie, Al Metelko, Jane Atkinson, Dave Dillon, Trish Cranston, Jo and Mark Furniss, Pete Blacow, Eva Golombova and Paul. Wilton 2, 3 and 4 are now owned by the Bolton Gun Club and the Bolton Rifle and Pistol Club. These clubs have priority over climbers on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. However, there was no sign of any armed activity in the area when the KMC arrived - no red flags, bangs, Gun Club Members or indeed any other people at all. As it was already well past 5pm when the first climbers turned up, it was pretty clear that there wouldn't be any shooting taking place. Climbing would be the only activity that the quarry would see this evening. Parallel Cracks (S, 4a, *), Rappel Wall (V-Diff, **), Slime Chimney (V-Diff, *), Crack and Slab (Diff, **), The Groove (V-Diff, *), Forked Cracks (VS, 4b, *) and Central Crack (HVS, 5a, ***) all succumbed to the molestations of the KMC. The weather stayed fine and dry for the evening, despite some fairly cloudy periods. Everyone seemed to enjoy themselves, even when "easy" routes on real rock proved to be a lot trickier than the "6a" routes that some people were used to on indoor walls (For Eva, it was only her second time climbing outdoors!). Climbing continued until about 9:30pm, when the light began to run short. The pub was Bob's Smithy, where the wallpaper gave some cause for comment. The choice of the crag for next time was heavily influenced by the two people present who will be away in the Alps for the following two weeks. As they'd attended the previous evening meet at that venue this year, we can only assume that this was a positive recommendation!
August 19th	Castle Naze
Attendees: Dave Dillon, Chris Williams, Jo and Mark Furniss, Kate Emeny, Pete Blacow. A glorious evening was had by all, stunning views as the sun was setting across the Peaks, a moderate breeze to keep the migies away and an hour wiled away in the Beehive at Coombs. In between we jammed our way up a good collection of cracks and have the scars to show for it!! After short deliberations and a casting vote from Mark, Tory Quarry chosen, unbeknown to us (none of us where there last time) for the third time this year! It must be a great crag!!!
September 9th	Troy Quarry (see also the Online Guidebook)
Attednees: Dave Dillon, Peter McNulty, Dave Wylie, Jane Atkinson, Trish Cranston, Al Metelko, Jo and Mark Furniss, James and Kasia Hoyle, Alex Cropper, Tom Makin, Mike Freeman, David Russell, Chris Williams. Following two weeks of awful Wednesday weather (Hurricane Bill on August 26th and Tropical Storm Danny on September 2nd) the evening of the 9th turned out to be superb. Clear skies, sunshine and only a very light breeze. All the usual classic Troy routes were climbed, (the "Siamese Twins", "Overlooked Crack", "Rapunzle", etc., etc.). Jane did her second ever outdoor lead, which was cleanly up "Open Sesame". Well done! Climbing continued until it was going dark, then most of the team snuck into the local pub for a swift drink and the debate about where to go next week.
September 16th	Pex Hill
Pex Hill was good fun. Bouldering and leading. Must have been big bullets that made those holes. Present: Al Metelko, Trish Cranston, Peter McNulty, Tom Makin, Chris Williams, Dave Dillon, Jo and Mark Furniss.
September 23rd	Hobson Moor
The Climbers: Dave Dillon, Peter McNulty, Dave Wylie, Trish Cranston, Christine Stark, Al Metelko. The Climbs: Gideon, Crew's Route, Pocket Wall, The Harp, Epitaph Corner, Parker's Eliminate, etc., etc. An excellent evening was had by all. Peter had already top-roped a couple of harder routes on his own (using a fixed rope and a Shunt) before the others started to arrive. He then made short work of leading some of the classic VS's. Dave D. did a fine lead of "Gideon", the jamming crack of which proved to be a little tricky for both Dave W. and Peter to follow. Christine was having an interesting time following Al up an alleged "VS" on the back wall, only to be told by another passing climber "No, that's E1!". Climbing continued until after sunset and, by the time Trish was following Dave W. up "Epitaph Corner", it got pretty dark - which just added to the fun...
October 7th	Broadbottom Quarry
It was too wet to get out on September 30th, so the meet was deferred to the first week of October. Al Metelko, Trish Cranston, Dave Dillon, Christine Stark and Dave Wylie all turned out for this last "daylight" evening meet of the year. It was, of course, dark by the time the team finished. Everyone climbed "Chapel Crack", with leads by Al and Dave W. The top of this route was an overgrown, loose and dangerous bank of earth and rubble. Major thanks to Dave D. who acted as a very patient in-situ (or, perhaps, in-shrubbery?!) belayer for both these ascents. Trish, Al and Christine also went up "The chute" - which was described as being more "interesting" than expected. The crag is not in a very nice state and could do with a major clean up. However, this would require agent orange and some large earth-moving machinery to make any impact... The post-meet pub had some good beer, but also could have done with a bit of a refurbishment!
October 28th	New Mills Torrs
A nocturnal climbing meet that turned out to be the last one of the year. 6 Climbers, 5 Routes, Excellent conditions.