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April 1997 Newsletter Forthcoming Meets
All note the following small print when taking part in meets :-
"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall
accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and
involvement."
April 20: President's Hot Pot: Phil Ramsbottom
I plan to climb at the north end of Stanage. Any bad weather alternative will be announced
nearer the time. Though it will take a considerable amount of 'bad weather' to drag me away from
Stanage north end. (ED. this is no joke. I've seen him in action. Under water.) Start around 10:00
am at the northern end.
The evenings entertainment will be held at "The Swan" at New Mills. The pub will be
open from 6:00 pm with the meal at 7:00 pm. This will feature the usual feast of Hot Pot as
sampled in previous years. Please book through myself for the Hot Pot. A slide competition will
follow.
April 26-27: Lakes District Camping Meet: Frank Williams
Join me on this delightful camp site at Nether Wasdale (GR sd126041 Outdoor Leisure 6-
SW Lakes). Beautiful site, good facilities and two pubs opposite each other in the village.
Easy walking round the lake, or you can take in the whole circuit at about 21 miles and
11,000' climb!!! Climbing on Pillar, Great Gable, Scafell Crag and Pike's Crag. Scrambling on
Buckbarrow or Middlefell, Yewbarrow and Red Pike. Tons to do for all tastes, surely Ken could
find some fishing around here, bet he knows all the places.
More details of my intended plans for both days nearer the day. Be there at the heart of
the English Lake District!!!
May 3-5 (Bank Holiday): Torver, Lakes: Julie Cook
May Bank Holiday in the Lakes ..... come and join in the fun:
Tranearth climbing hut near Coniston GR 281957, it's out of the way from the madding crowds
but close enough to stagger to the pub and back at night - and I should know. Last years meet was
lots of fun, the hut is well situated, heated by a coke stove, but with all mod cons too. Dow crag is
close and Wallowbarrow is not too far away and there is plenty else to do as well.
This year I have asked for serious heat as well as sunshine, so see me at the pub with a
fiver to secure your place. If I'm not there, give it to the Ketchup Kid.
May 11: Peak Rock: Carl Blakeley
Carl has a mystery trip in store. Somewhere near Cratcliffe. At or about 10:00 am start.
Bring some butties.
May 17-18: Ty Powdwr Working party: Steve Taylor
Come along and confront those feeling of guilt and other worrying habits. Fully trained
therapists, councillors and consultants will be available to soothe those aching lobes. The Hut
management group will be passing amongst you, cap in hand, trying to lure you to a soul building
weekend at the hut. Relax and play easy to get, it won't hurt.
May 24-28: Rhum - Scottish Island Meet: Dave Bone
Rhum is a quiet Island off the west coast of Scotland, reachable by passenger only ferry
from Mallaig. As a Nature Reserve, it is known for its wildlife, but, perhaps, of more importance
to us, it holds the Rhum Cuillin, a smaller version of its big brother seen across the waters,
complete with 2 Corbetts, excellent views and some entertaining scrambling. The full ridge
traverse and return is a must for a visit. There is also supposed to be some easy climbing for those
of an exploratory nature - the suicidal can try the Orval pinnacle. For those who have wondered
about those hills across the water, here's your chance. Arrangements are still being made as a visit
has to be pre-booked, but it is worthwhile taking a couple of extra days off work for this one to
give a chance at catching some decent weather and work round the ferries. The aim is to catch
Saturdays EARLY ferry from Mallaig- return Wednesday early afternoon. There is no
return on Tuesday! I'm provisionally booking 10 people camping (4 nights at £1 pp.pn) - The
Ferry has been booked to give an all in price of £17 (only Seventeen pounds)-all money now
welcome!. Please confirm your interest in this trip of a lifetime as early as possible with cash in
order to be sure of a standing space on the ferry and Island at this busy time!
May 31st - June 6th 1997: Skye Meet: Phil Ramsbottom
Once again it is time for the trip to the misty isle, after at least three years bad weather this
year we are due to see the island at its' best, and there couldn't be a better time to go - daylight
from 3 am to 11 pm, midges still hibernating, bank holiday hoards on their way home - what more
can I say.
The company in the hut is guaranteed to be excellent with plenty of good humoured
banter, so cross my palm with 20 and a place is yours.
June 1: Peak Rock: Dave Shotton
I am planning to hold this meet at Wimberry rocks in the Chew Valley - a magnificent
gritstone outcrop at the top of a hill overlooking the Dovestones Reservoir, with everything from
VDiffs to E7s. There are classic routes of all grades - Route 1 ( a fun-tastic HS), Vs's such as
Ornithologist's Corner and Hanging grove, the finger-shredding Freddie's Finale (HVS/E1), and
Blasphemy (E2,5c), Charm (E3,5c), Appointment With Fear (E7,6b) ... *. If you can't make it up
the hill or it's a bit windy up top, Wimberry Boulders await your bouldering pleasure.
Park at the car-park by the Dovestones Reservoir below Dovestones Dam off the A635 (
the car-park gets busy if hot even though the crag doesn't, so it's best to be reasonably early in this
event). Follow the tarmac road past the boat park to the bridge over Chew Brook, walk upstream
to the big Sugar Loaf Boulder, then take the path on the right straight up the hill. Meet at the crag
from 9:30 onwards.
* No I haven't done these last ones.
June 7-8: Ty Powdwr: Joanne Hepburn
Saturday, a glorious day climbing in the Pass, many classics ranging from, V DIff to Dead
'Ard with load of stars. Followed by vats amounts of Alcohoool and socialising.
On Sunday there Vil Be a Two hour horse ride in the beautiful Snowdonia National Park,
The riding is local to the Hut. Please see me in the pub to book places.
June 14-15: Lakes Camping: Andy Croughton
As the title suggests I will be camping in the lakes at the campsite in Nether Wasdale. The
intention will be to spend two glorious sunny days scrambling in the magnificent hills surrounding
the campsite.
So if there are any members interested in spending a weekend applying sun tan lotion and
looking for shade amongst the rocks this is the place to be. So see me in the pub for more details.
N.B. weather conditions may vary and temperatures can go up or down, no guarantee is
given with this camping meet. Please read all small print before applying, and don't ask me for
exact routes as I have not decided on any yet.
June 21-22: Solstice Rock: Rob Allen
Plans are a foot, but don't want to say too much in case the Police catch wind of human
sacrifices at twilight. Hopefully next news letter will have more details. Also Rob is available for
home visit and will circulate himself around. So you can ask him for more details.
June 29: Peak Rock: Birchen Edge: Dave Wylie
Those of you with the old (1985) "Derwent Gritstone" guide will know that Birchen Edge
has plenty of lower grade climbs, including many V-Diffs. However, if you invest in the new
"Chatsworth" guide you will discover that 32 of these routes have been upgraded, some to VS
(along with 13 of the old Severes). There are now also 17 "E" routes for the hard climbers.
The idea is therefore to have a choice: an easy day of it for those with the old guidebook
(sticking to the V-Diffs and Severes) and a slightly harder time for those with the new one (on the
VS's) - even if we all do the same routes!
Parking near the "Robin Hood" public house at grid ref. SK 281 721 (according to the
"White Peak Area" map), then: "100m to the East (up the minor road) a stile gives access to a
sandy track that leads to the edge in ten to fifteen minutes" (according to the new guide).
I will aim to be there from around 10:30 am, but I won't mind if anybody beats me to it.
See you at the crag, Dave.
July 5-6: Ty Powdwr: Frank Williams
Frank has a meet at the hut. All are welcome with lots planned. Frank has all the details.
This time year should provide a wonderful back drop of weather Frank's escapades. Come on
down and see it all happen.
July 9: Garden Party: Roy Lee
This is a fun(d) raising event. Bring lots of food and drinks and chatter away another
superb session on the Lee's vast estate.
July 5-12: Cornwall: Linda Crossley & Mary Stuart
If you climb within the range V Diff to E4 and dream of climbing on clean, fast drying
sea cliffs in a particularly beautiful part of England away from the main tourist haunts, then come
camping in Bosigran on the north coast of West Penwith on Cornwall.
Details nearer the time, put the dates in your diary for now. Here are some routes for you
delectation.
Bosigran Ridge VDiff 210m **, varied climbing on perfect blocky granite. Fine position,
constant exposure. One of the great sea cliff classics. Doorpost HS (4a,4b,4a) 56m ***, One of
Britain's great severes giving exposure, position and excellent climbing. Suicide Wall E1 (4b,5a)
64m ***, splendid expedition. Bow Wall E2(5b,5b) 53m ***, a great line up the overhanging
heart of the main cliff. One of the most famous Cornish climbs. Kafoozalem E3 (6a) 37m ***,
magnificent route taking a stunning crack line.
This is also a lovely part of the Cornish Coastal Path and there are superb surfing beaches.
July 12-13: Culm Coast: Dave Bone
So what is the Culm Coast? - it's North Devon from Bude to Bideford (Culm is the type
of rock - baked shales) featuring superb coastal scenery (the fins of Lower Sharpnose just have to
seen & climbed), beautiful quiet countryside and the home of "adventure" climbing. As a
favourite haunt from a London base, I can point out a lot of the area's best; Blackchurch (***E2),
Gull Rock (Easier routes, **E2 needing inventive belaying), Lower Sharpnose (long HVS's and
large Es), Compass Pt, (Wrecker's Slab) and many solitary gems...
Don't believe all the stories of the area, most of it is slab climbing (perhaps because the
rock doesn't support overhangs for long) on compact rock (but don't look over the back!) and there
are plenty of stars to collect. There's always a Devon Cream Tea instead! This is one area where
the saying " the rock will always be there" might not be true so come along now for something
different (and "it's too far" won't be accepted as an excuse as there are fast roads to Bideford,
though Birmingham could usefully be obliterated). The trip will involve camping near Clovelly
(details later).
July 19-20: Eskdale High Camp: Kevin Anderson
Walk in on Friday night with a few bottles of wine , beer and a Didsbury supper, and a
tent. Wake bright and early beneath the crag in glorious sunshine, Routes ranging from easy to
hard. Possibly as many as one a day. Saturday night, any one with a guitar need not apply. And the
same on Sunday. Walking out under a setting sun to the dreamy drive home.
Park towards the bottom of Hardknott pass in Esk dale, above the cattle grids before the
road levels out in the valley, or alternatively, where ever you want to.
July 27: Yorkshire Grit: Rob ert Clark
This will be a Sunday meet, held at Armscliff in Yorkshire. Arrive at 10:30 a.m. with a
decent lunch box. Armscliff lies between Harrogate and Otley, park on the Stainburn road side of
the crag, at a corner parking spot. The village of Huby is but a thirty minute walk from the crag
and has a bus stop. The village of Weeton, also 30 minutes away, boasts a railway station on the
line between Leeds and Harrogate.
August 2-3: Ty Powdwr Joint FRCC/KMC
Come to the hut, glorious sunshine, perhaps a barbie on the veranda, for a return match.
Offer the FRCC some beer and watch their eyes light up.
April 1997 Newsletter Index.
Copyright © 1997 Karabiner Mountaineering Club
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