Karabiner Mountaineering Club

April 1997 Newsletter Meet Reports

July 96: Wasdale Head Meet (Alternative report): Dave Whittingham

Our brand-spanking new editor has put out a plea for Quality Items for the newsletter. But just in case he doesn't receive any here is a bit of padding.

There may have been a modest KMC turnout at Brakenclose last July, but as Bob said in his report it was a memorable meet.

Now for the immodest "what I did on my holidays" bit. On Saturday morning Roger, Bridget and myself slogged up Brown Tongue, towards the cloud which we assumed contained Scafell and our chosen route, the classic Botterills Slab.

Eventually, through a brief rent in the swirling cloud, we caught a glimpse of the route. A party of two were already well established, with the leader starting, very slowly of the main pitch. One look was enough to show that the classic route was in classic condition, dripping with moisture.

Oh dear, time for plan B. More slogging uphill, over Mickledore and down below East Buttress. At least there was less cloud and wind on this side. We stopped to get out the guide book and butties.

Roger, "How about the classic Mickeldore Grooves?"

Me, "Mumble, mumble."

I have to congratulate Roger on a fine lead of pitch two. Very greasy rock and unreliable gear. His slow but steady progress was punctuated by the occasional quiet swear word and the regular clatter of another runner falling out and sliding back down the rope.

The top at last, now back to the sacks for more butties. More easily said than done. Broad stand was completely blocked by in-situ TA bods, but a short abseil took us to the crest of Mickledore. Gear packed away we set off for the hut, pausing briefly to watch all the excitement involving a broken leg and a helicopter.

The evening started quietly enough until the FRCC made an offer I could not refuse. FRCC, "Would you like a bottle of beer?"

The rest of the evening passed being slowly kippered by the remains of their barbecue. Sunday morning, after those with amphibious tendencies returned from Wastwater, four of us set out through the showers for the Napes and Needle Ridge. Not another classic route in classic conditions? No. This is a nice friendly Diff. with big holds and more protection that you can shake a rack of gear at.

Once settled in the "needle's eye" the four of us roped up in classic style, all tied together with lots of opportunity to practice rope management skills. Off set, the Engineer, the Mermaid, Press Baron and me. Pausing only to consume mango slices, the modern equivalent of Carlsbad plums, and to record the occasion with Dave's photographic apparatus, we attained the summit.

Forgoing the opportunity to sing "God Save The Queen" and leave our calling cards in a bottle, we returned to the hut, ate more food, then back home after an excellent and memorable weekend.

16th - 21st January: CIC Hut Meet Report: David Whittingham

Members and guests: David Bone, David Whittingham, Roger Mapleson (G), Craig Marsden (G), Andrew Sykes (G), Keith Todd (G).

Could this be the shortest meet report ever? We didn't go. Perhaps I had better expand on that a little. All members of the C.I.C. hut team attended the Roybridge meet and enjoyed a fine Saturday. Sunday started wet, we met in Nevisport before the walk-in.

The weather forecast was ominous, winds gale to storm force and freezing level about 1000 metres, with the avalanche warning four (i.e. the slope will avalanche if you Look at it too hard). There was much discussion as to the options available to us. Either walk in to the hut and wait, hoping for an improvement; or agree that discretion is the better part of valour and call it off. Not wanting to waste the journey or any possibility of climbing we decided, rather reluctantly, to walk in and wait. However in the pouring rain at the golf club lay-by common- sense prevailed. We got back in the cars and went home.

Subsequent monitoring of the weather and avalanche reports has confirmed the soundness of this decision. For example, the avalanche report for Thursday 20th was continuing storm force winds with all North to East facing slopes fundamentally unstable. Better luck next year ?

31 Jan - 2 Feb 1997: Kingussie Meet: Lorna Marsland

Present : John and Liz Hyde, Ian Bennett, A. Metelko, John McDonald, Chris Williamson, Andy Croughton, Brian Street, Dave Dillon, Mary Stuart, Anne Woolley, Vinny Goodwin, Lorna Marsland.

The weather was better than we had been led to expect. It was cold and dry with varying localised cloud cover and the snow condition in the gullies was very good. Unfortunately the piste was sparsely covered with snow of an icy consistency which no appeal for anyone, so the skis were left behind. There were many solo ascents of routes in the Northern Corries, but only one protected route ( I use the term advisedly) done by Al, Mary and myself. This was Crotched Gully, an interesting distraction forcing some rather innovative rope work and snappy rejoinders as another party attempted to overtake us - unsuccessfully! No doubt you've seen the pictures as it was much photographed by David Bailey-Stuart!

Others indulged themselves to the full by building igloos, kamakazying round the countryside on mountain bikes, sauntering round wee Scottish lochan and taking full advantage of the abundance of tea and craft shops so temptingly convenient. Alcohol was consumed to excess by those who normally display some semblance of control and also by those from whom we expect no better. I blame the location of these delightful Scottish huts. Far removed from hostelries, they force people to load the car with alcohol in England, thus forcing the to drink it to avoid having to take it back again. Life is tough at "The Happy Corkscrew"!

Seriously, the hut was very warm and comfortable and the setting is idyllic - well worth a visit. It was a very enjoyable meet despite being unable to ski. Perhaps next year...

Feb 22-23 1997: Ty Powdwr: Dave Dillon

Present: Joanne Hepburn, Lauren Fawkes, Kevin Anderson, Joan Stewart, Linda Crossley, Chris Williamson, Chris Ivory, Orla Kelly, Ken Beetham, Alan 'Liv' Jones, Lester Payne, Vinny Goodwin, Neil Whittaker, Robert Clark, Jim Symon, Judith Symon, Julie Cook, Lucy Brill, Levi Todd, Rich Johnson, Julie Johnson, Marg Lockwood, Al Metelko, Andy Croughton, Dave Dillon.

A weekend with many facets and sub plots, all over my head though. We had a bit of a walk on Saturday. One of those orbital walks that start of grandiose in planning, but forced to spiral inwards until a short circuit of the car park is all that remains. Caused mainly by insufficient energy to reach the escape velocity required to pierce the dread pull of inclement weather. Even a slight shedding of mass, en route, failed to give sufficient power ratios. Notable features of the walk: No peaks, tops or pimples bagged, and not much in the way of level ground come to think of it. Though outwards through the quarries was a straight contour, the return quarry leg was definitely downward. Since it was Birthday type meet dancing and things followed. As did Sunday.

Here is a collection of sub images from the weekend. Joanne and Boris. Laren riding Texas style. Kevin running. Joan also running. Linda and Albus oil. Orla, pyjamas & beaches. Ken, party animal. Lester on bike. Vinny, Godzilla. Jim & Judith & Julie C, Clogwynn. Lucy, exploding porridge. Marg & Al, Clean team.

Sunday 2nd March. 1997: Peak District Walk: Iain McCallum

Members present. Bob Anderson, Ken Beetham, Bowden Black, Virginia Castick, Roger Dyke, John Dwyer, Bob Haynes, Sheena Hendrie, Tony Marsh, Iain McCallum, Lester Payne, Alan Peck, Nigel Rosenbaum, Derek Seddon, Chris Thickett, Peter Walker, Frank Walker, Frank and Margaret Williams, Keith Williams, Dave Wylie. (20) Guests present. *Mike Graves, *Sylvia Haynes, *Joan Green, Pam McCallum, Zoe Rosenbaum, Neil Whittaker, Alan Wylie. (8) *Ex members.

Contrary to the dismal weather forecast of heavy rain Sunday dawned bright and sunny but with a very strong wind blowing from the West. Everyone eventually managed to find the car park behind Longshawe Lodge. (The Lodge was erected by the Duke of Rutland as a shooting lodge. At one time it had its own chapel - so our Hut has still some way to go! [Wot a blessing. ED])

From Longshawe Lodge our route took us through the estate and then along the track below Burbage Rocks, giving a fine view of Carl Wark, an Iron Age hill fort, before turning right over the edge and across the moor onto the Houndkirk Road.

This old turnpike dating from about 1760 is now clearly suffering from erosion due to its use by trail riders and 4 wheel drive vehicles. After passing the Ox Stones we stopped to refuel, sheltering in the lee of Brown Edge Quarries. From here we headed North before turning West across the moor along a new concessionary path (very wet) in the teeth of a gale force wind to Stanedge Pole which was erected in 1550 to mark the packhorse route over Stanage Edge to Sheffield. A short stop was called at the Pole to give everyone time to catch up and admire the fine panoramic view of the hills. From the Pole we continued along the track towards the Edge passing "rain" from the stream being blown back over the rocks by the wind. After descending the Edge we stopped for lunch in a sunny but sheltered spot close to the main path selected for us by Alan Peck. While lunching someone had the temerity to ask a passing French couple why they were carrying a mattress to the crag (well it wasn't very warm) and were told that it was to provide a soft landing in the event of a fall "to protect zee 'eels'"!

From Stanage our route took us down the valley past North Lees (allegedly the model for Mr. Rochester's house in Jane Eyre) and onto Hathersage by way of the church with Little John's grave. After a welcome stop at the Hathersage Inn for drinks we left the town and followed the river Derwent to Grindleford before turning up through the woods and past the Grouse Inn, then back through the Longshawe Estate to the Lodge and the car park.

It was good to see so many members and their guests on the hill, especially Nigel and Zoe from the rural idyll. Thank you all for supporting my meet.

Iain McCallum.

March 8th - 14th 1997: Mallorca Meet: Phil Ramsbottom

SEE THE SPANISH SECTION LATER ON

23 march 97: Bouldering meet: Vinny Goodwin

Members Present: D. Dillon, D. Wylie, A. Croughton Guest: A. Wylie. Members NOT present: V.Goodwin Meet Leader.

Due to lack of interest in the scheduled Grinah stones bivvy meet (especially by the meet leader who ran away to Spain) a hastily rearranged bouldering meet was planned for the Sunday only. Despite poor weather and dwindling numbers from those interested in the pub on the preceding Thursday the above mentioned attendants set off at 10:30am from the car park with the intent to boulder on any worthwhile rock spread out around Carl Wark and Burbage areas of the Peak.

Although no perfect the weather held off and several rocks were assailed and several more photographs taken by Mr Dillon.

Thank you to those who attended and to those who didn't you missed a reasonable day of bouldering. A. Croughton. (Substitute meet leader)

15th - 16th February 1997: Roy Bridge VI - The Hunt for Snow: Chris Williamson

Dave Wylie, Tony Gask, Andrew Croughton, Mary Stuart, Dave Bone, Al Metelko, Andrew Sykes, Dave Whittingham, Roger Mapleson, Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie, Colin Maddison, Keith Todd, Pete Leeson, Sabina Cosulich, John McDonald, Eimear Kilcoyne?, Cathy Devine, Jeremy Engineer, Nicky Devons, Craig Marsden, Chris Williamson.

Last year we were snowless in Roy Bridge. January is, after all, a fickle month when it comes to the white stuff. Mid February ought to be a good bet, I'd thought. Hmmm. Not quite. The gullies had suffered a week of category three and four on the Richter Scale. Time to head for the rocks.

Three of us conspired to make for The Ben. Saturday morning, our early start provoked another team to stir. They'd elected for a traverse of the Aonach Eagach. John Mc, Eimear, Roger, Craig, Nicky, Al and Dave Wylie did the two car shuffle. They enjoyed a great day, on a classical outing, with only the usual hold-ups where queues form.

Others, I gather, later headed for Creag Meagaidh and a walking tour of the horse-shoe. A line that kept them safely above this year's fantastic avalanche potential. Mind you, there can't be much need for a transponder when you're out with the chattering crowd. By all accounts, Sabina, Peter, Cathy, Mary, Michelle, Mark and Jeremy had a good day out, too. Also on Meagaidh was our very own 'Window' cleaning team: Keith and Andrew. The guys took a slightly more adventurous route to the summit.

Dave Bone took Dave Whittingham Corbett bagging in the Monadh Liath. Their return trek being enlivened by fallen timber on the track. Where did Tony Gask get to? Tony, where are you? Phone home!

Meanwhile, back to the long flog in. Without 'frique or funicular it was Shanks's up the Allt a' Mhuilinn to the CIC. Must have been something of a culture shock to the Frogs and Wops who were amongst the crowd gathered there. (Explanatory note in the enlightened age free of prejudice - Frogs and Wops is a derogatory term for continental climbers. Especially the sort who unclip your gear and try to pick fights, at four thousand metres, on airy alpine pinnacles. Not that I bare a grudge, mind you.) Anyhow, turns out that Andy Perkins was running a BMC International Meet.

Tower Ridge was getting a big mention amongst the parties regrouping outside the hallowed walls. Consequently, our very own Monsieur Le Guide, Colin Maddison, suggested we avoid the crowds and subsequent benightment by heading for Castle Ridge. A while wading the white fluff and we were on our way. Wading was swapped for climbing. It's rather interesting trying to determine what's buried under twelve inches of cotton wool; actually, a fair bit of granite slab but with just enough frozen turf to prevent an early demise. Colin got to lead the first serious, and disconsolately bare, pitch. He was, as they say, gone some time. This left Andrew Croughton to contemplate his initiation into Scottish winter climbing of the mixed variety. Eventually though, on the shout from above, the man very ably circumvented the small roof above our stance and disappeared from sight. I was a little concerned, however, by the showers of sparks that then ensued. This mingled with some heavy grunting and the sound crampon points endeavouring to find purchase on blank granite. My turn next. Again, the roof dealt with. Then, revelation. A big, steep corner, blank but for a poorly iced crack at the apex. The only other feature - a thin crack barely the width of a pick blade. Herein, Colin assured me, lay the secret to ascent. It was merely a question of pulling up, arm over arm, by finding purchase in the thin crack with the axes. He also, subsequently, admitted to having expressed concern about parental responsibilities. This may explain why he later committed one of Nora's axes to the void, or maybe it did just slide off his wrist.

As to the rest of the route - very enjoyable despite the conditions, though things were, thankfully, a little more consolidated towards the top. Andrew completed his initiation, with darkness falling not long after we'd topped out. Anyhow, it's a route well worth doing and if you already have, you'll know what I mean. Saturday night turned into something of a Ceilidh. Though not quite the sort of event you might see billed in the Roy Bridge and Achluachrach Parish Herald. More of a sing-song with 'Guitar Leeson'.

T'was a rafter raising session. Peter's volume control doesn't drop below fortissimo these days. I'm sure the instrument must be well reinforced. In support of the main man were the 'Karabinetts'. This being the first time the lassies had performed together (or even practised anywhere). Anyhow, the evening rolled on. The majority of the gathering knew none of the words to the songs. The Karabinettes only knew half the words to the songs - the out of key half... By the time the laddie brought his fiddle out, for the second time in the evening, there was something of a rush for the pub and a fine pint of Seventy Shilling.

Sunday arrived to the accompaniment of the rain beating a tattoo on the window. A typical Highland Sunday. Doubtless a joy to the Calvinists. Leeson led a walk into the gale. Colin declared tedium and bailed out below the snowline. It could well have been the Peak District apart from the absence of that well known leader of extreme Dark Peak grade V walks? Mark and Michelle headed onto the hill next door. For reasons unspecified they failed to change the colour of one of the 277 pins that Mark has stuck into a map on his living-room wall. Sad people? Answers on a postcard... Again, others went to other places. But, of this I have no record. Where did the elusive Mr Gask get to?

Finally, the disgraceful story of the CIC. The boys got no further than the lay-by. Some wafty story about week-long storms being forecast, with the avalanche category being stuck on four and temperatures drifting to double digits Celsius of the positive flavour. It's high time that we looked into the acceptance criteria for membership.

... and next year. Roy Bridge V. A weekend of Scottish country dancing creative writing and Gaelic poetry reading.

April 1997 Newsletter Index.

Copyright © 1997 Karabiner Mountaineering Club