Karabiner Mountaineering Club

June 1997 Newsletter Forthcoming Meets

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."

April 20: President's Hot Pot: Phil Ramsbottom

Please book through myself for the Hot Pot. A slide competition will follow.

June 14-15: Lakes Camping: Andy Croughton

As the title suggests I will be camping in the lakes at the campsite in Nether Wasdale. The intention will be to spend two glorious sunny days scrambling in the magnificent hills surrounding the campsite. So if there are any members interested in spending a weekend applying sun tan lotion and looking for shade amongst the rocks this is the place to be. So see me in the pub for more details. N.B. weather conditions may vary and temperatures can go up or down, no guarantee is given with this camping meet. Please read all small print before applying, and don't ask me for exact routes as I have not decided on any yet.

June 21-22: Solstice Rock: Rob Allen

Plans are at hand and have coalesced, somewhat, but nothing in writing yet. The venue is Gogarth, scene of many a moonlit trembler. Vaguely tropical routes include, The Sun, The Moon & Pagan, etc. Camping on Holy Island itself, turn left just after you cross Four Mile bridge, follow signs to Silver Sands Bay, sharp left turn. Camping at GR280755, not in the Caravan park, it's the next one down the little lane. You can ask Rob for more details.

June 29: Peak Rock: Birchen Edge: Dave Wylie

Those of you with the old (1985) "Derwent Gritstone" guide will know that Birchen Edge has plenty of lower grade climbs, including many V-Diffs. However, if you invest in the new "Chatsworth" guide you will discover that 32 of these routes have been upgraded, some to VS (along with 13 of the old Severes). There are now also 17 "E" routes for the hard climbers. The idea is therefore to have a choice: an easy day of it for those with the old guidebook (sticking to the V-Diffs and Severes) and a slightly harder time for those with the new one (on the VS's) - even if we all do the same routes! Parking near the "Robin Hood" public house at grid ref. SK 281 721 (according to the "White Peak Area" map), then: "100m to the East (up the minor road) a stile gives access to a sandy track that leads to the edge in ten to fifteen minutes" (according to the new guide). I will aim to be there from around 10:30 am, but I won't mind if anybody beats me to it.

See you at the crag, Dave.

July 5-6: Ty Powdwr: Frank Williams

Come to Ty Powdwr on a real mountaineering meet, enjoy the peace and tranquillity of our very own refuge. Enjoy the tranquillity and remoteness of Llyn Dulyn and the beauty and history of the Conwy Valley where a walk is planned on Sunday. I love the hut when its not crowded and a peaceful evening can be spent in the lounge or in the forecourt depending on the weather --- so come and share its peace. Saturday, why not climb on a remote Gregson connoisseur crag like Graig Lloer or walk the wide and lonely ridges away from the crowds of Snowdon (poor Yr Wyddfa) or scramble on Tryfan or the Nantlle ridges?

Be there, numbers restricted so book no. More details at the time.

July 9: Garden Party: Roy Lee

This is a fun(d) raising event. Bring lots of food and drinks and chatter away another superb session on the Lee's vast estate.

July 4-11: Cornish Cliff Climbing: Linda Crossley & Mary Stuart

Superb sea cliff climbing on S and W facing cliffs, VD to E4. Camping at Treveddra farm GR SW369274 (Map 203) by the beach. Centrally situated for Chair Ladder and Bosigran. Some routes for you delectation: Bosigran Ridge VDiff 210m **, varied climbing on perfect blocky granite. Fine position, constant exposure. One of the great sea cliff classics. Doorpost HS (4a,4b,4a) 56m ***, One of Britain's great severes giving exposure, position and excellent climbing. Suicide Wall E1 (4b,5a) 64m ***, splendid expedition. Bow Wall E2(5b,5b) 53m ***, a great line up the overhanging heart of the main cliff. One of the most famous Cornish climbs. Kafoozalem E3 (6a) 37m ***, magnificent route taking a stunning crack line. Culminating in a weekend on the Culm Coast on Dave Bones meet. See Mary or Linda regarding sharing transport etc.

July 12-13: Culm Coast: Dave Bone

So what is the Culm Coast? - it's North Devon from Bude to Bideford (Culm is the type of rock - baked shales) featuring superb coastal scenery (the fins of Lower Sharpnose just have to seen & climbed), beautiful quiet countryside and the home of "adventure" climbing. As a favourite haunt from a London base, I can point out a lot of the area's best; Blackchurch (***E2), Gull Rock (Easier routes, **E2 needing inventive belaying), Lower Sharpnose (long HVS's and large Es), Compass Pt, (Wrecker's Slab) and many solitary gems... Don't believe all the stories of the area, most of it is slab climbing (perhaps because the rock doesn't support overhangs for long) on compact rock (but don't look over the back!) and there are plenty of stars to collect. There's always a Devon Cream Tea instead! This is one area where the saying " the rock will always be there" might not be true so come along now for something different (and "it's too far" won't be accepted as an excuse as there are fast roads to Bideford, though Birmingham could usefully be obliterated). The trip will involve camping near Clovelly (details later).

July 19-20: Eskdale High Camp: Kevin Anderson

Walk in on Friday night with a few bottles of wine , beer and a Didsbury supper, and a tent. Wake bright and early beneath the crag in glorious sunshine, Routes ranging from easy to hard. Possibly as many as one a day. Saturday night, any one with a guitar need not apply. And the same on Sunday. Walking out under a setting sun to the dreamy drive home. Park towards the bottom of Hardknott pass in Esk dale, above the cattle grids before the road levels out in the valley, or alternatively, where ever you want to.

July 27: Yorkshire Grit: Rob ert Clark

This will be a Sunday meet, held at Armscliff in Yorkshire. Arrive at 10:30 a.m. with a decent lunch box. Armscliff lies between Harrogate and Otley, park on the Stainburn road side of the crag, at a corner parking spot. The village of Huby is but a thirty minute walk from the crag and has a bus stop. The village of Weeton, also 30 minutes away, boasts a railway station on the line between Leeds and Harrogate.

August 2-3: Ty Powdwr: Joint FRCC/KMC

Come to the hut, glorious sunshine, perhaps a barbie on the veranda, for a return match. Offer the FRCC some beer and watch their eyes light up.

August 9-10: Ty Powdwr Family Meet

Bring the family down to Ty Powdwr and the Annual Snapper Fest. You have been warned.

August 17: Stanage: Brian Street

It has to be done... a climbing meet at Stanage! Climbing of all grades .... the sun is bound to be shining .... the birds will be twittering in the.. er.. rocks. What else do I need? Ah yes, good company (hence this plea for your good selves... wot a crawler!). Who knows there may even be a trip to the tea shop (or dare I mention the pub!) afterwards. Well I can think of no more inducements and so I'd better let you know about the arrangements. I propose to meet at the crag (in the vicinity of the Unconquerable Cracks area - OS242839) at 10:30am. Hope to se you there!

August 23-25: Lundy: Rick Kruze

Well folks, looks like Lundy will have it's fair share of KMCers this August Bank Holiday. Even before I've had chance to advertise this meet in the newsletter, it's booked up. What keenies you are. So sorry for anyone who was thinking of going on this one but unless you are a paid up member there are no places left. Now for the lucky dozen here are some booking details. I'm leaving it up to each of you to book your ferry ticket. Telephone bookings can be made with the Landmark Trust on 01628 825925, Mon-Fri 9am to 7pm and Sat,Sun 10am to 4pm. The price will be 35 pounds return. The camping is booked under the name of Williamson. It's advised that the ferry is booked in advance as you are not allocated a ferry place even if you have accommodation on the island. So get ringing.

August 31: Mountain Biking: Vinny Goodwin

The venue is Water Houses in Staffordshire, past Leek. Meet at 10:00am for a sedate ride on good tracks with succulent pubs. Bikes are available for hire or bring your own. See Vinny for details of hiring bikes and ordering advance beer.

September 7: Surprise Meet: Joanne Hepburn

Come to the pub and find out what Joanne has in store for you.

September 13-14: Birkness Buttermere: Linda Batey

We have the Fell & Rock's Birkness Hut for this meet. Lovely hut in one of Lakelands nicest valleys, lots of things to do plus a pub within easy staggering distance of the Hut. Places are limited to 10 men and 7 women. So book early (or cross dress ED).

September 20-21: Yorkshire Walks: Frank Williams

This'll be a camping meet at Hawes, there's a great camp site at Bainbridge Ings, great eating places at Hawes. ( And you can buy real Wensleydale cheese). Unusual walking over Abbottside Common and Great Shunner Fell and down to places like Muker and Gunnerside in Swaledale. Also coming south round Fleet Moss and Semer Water there's good walking too. More details nearer the time, but dust that camping gear off, you can be prepared.

September 28: Yorkshire Dales Walk: Iain McCallum

Route: Clapham, Trow Gill, Gaping Gill, Ingleborough (723m), Simon Fell, Park Fell, Sulber Nick, Crummackdale, Norber Boulders - Clapham. Distance 14 miles. The walk can easily be shortened if necessary. Meet at 9:30a.m. for a 9:45a.m. start at the car park in Clapham (GR746694) Best map - Outdoor Leisure 2 - Yorkshire Dales - Western Area.

June 1997 Newsletter Index.

Copyright © 1997 Karabiner Mountaineering Club