Karabiner Mountaineering Club

June 1997 Newsletter Meet Reports

8th/9th March: Hut Working Meet

The plan was to work in the Hut on Saturday, and then go out climbing on Sunday. What was the weather like on Saturday while we worked? Glorious. What did it do in North Wales on Sunday when we'd finished? It rained. Typical. Anyway, the three of us who were daft enough to attend the working meet got two major jobs completed and several smaller ones dealt with as well. Most significant, if you're a bloke, is that you no longer have to stand in a pool of p*** when you want to use the gents. Julie spent all of Saturday afternoon, evening and half the night replacing the leaky pipework from the urinals, including the under-floor connections. The system was tested (with water!) on the Sunday morning, and (after one adjustment) was proved to be leak free. To say that the job was a disgusting one would be the understatement of the year. Not only was the old pipework full of foul deposits, but crawling round in the muck under the hut floor is a test of anyone's stamina. The woman deserves a medal! The second large job was the completion of the re-design of the drying room. Dave installed two large fans above the false ceiling (which is now made of wire mesh) to force the air to circulate. The principle is to have the de-humidifier running to extract moisture from the air, and the fans blowing it round the wet clothes. The system should be at least as effective as the old setup, but use less than one fifth of the electricity. This will save the club a lot of money, as well as reducing our impact on the environment. The smaller jobs that were finished off included: 1/ The remaining damage from the recent break-in was repaired, i.e. the window in the lower right hand dormitory was replaced and the damaged locks on the library bookcase cupboards were fixed. 2/ Lester touched up a few thin patches in the new paintwork on kitchen the ceiling. He also moved the members dormitory notice upstairs, and the Guest/FRCC notice downstairs so that we no longer reserve the least pleasant dormitory for ourselves. 3/ The remaining flammable chairs were removed from lounge, so that we are now compliant with the current fire regulations.

Presumably everyone else was out in the fine weather; we hope you enjoyed it. Next time somebody else can do the work, and we'll go out climbing.

3-5 May BH: Lakes Tranearth Hut: Julie Cook

Present: Lucy Brill, Andrew Croughton, David Dillon, Mark Garrod, Tony Gask, Michelle Harvie, Sheena Hendrie, Chris Ivory, Alan Liv. Jones, Lester Payne, Mary Stuart, Jim and Judith Symon, Jonathan Timmis, Dave Whittingham, Chris Williamson, Anne Wooley, Dave Wylie.(19)

The weekend started of extremely well weather wise; I arrived in glorious sunshine on Friday -- perfect I thought, never listen to the forecasts they're always bloody wrong. Mr Timmis arrived late afternoon, also declaring the delights of the weather, and went off onto the hill for a run before tea. A dozen or so bods were at the hut by a reasonable hour.. no probs with traffic at all considering it to be a bank holiday weekend - good oh! Lets be off to the watering hole at the end of the lane, just for the one of course. Saturday dawned with the brightest warmest sunshine you could imagine, and the two earliest birds were, surprise surprise, Mark and Michelle up off to Dow crag before 8am!! Keeeen is not in it. So, setting the pace, everyone else also keen to get a good start, were off in hot pursuit not long after. Needless to say, Dow was quite a popular venue on such a perfect day, but the crag wuz ample enough wiv its roots to give everyone enuf to do. After lots of hot sticky climbs, what better way to cool off than in your own local tarn (the usual crew, you know the people who like to disrobe at the drop of a hat) Anyway, at the very end of a Scorchio day, the drizzle did threaten enough to send a few people scuttling back to the hut.. never mind, lots and lots of mega routes were ticked which made it very worthwhile. The rain didn't set in until much later ... good job because Mark and Jono were still on the crag well after dark!! The rain did eventually set in though, albeit half heatedly at first but enough to keep people off the rock. Some went to the wall, and got lost on the way back... good landmark Dow crag; but are you sure you need to via this marker to get to Tranearth? Question of the weekend was apparently; did the rope get stuck by accident or was it fate? OR, How did it take three quarters of an hour to walk from the car to the hut? OR Why did Chris want to take Anne's clothes off anyway?? Wet weather always seems to provoke various antics from all and sundry and this was no exception... Stoker Dillon, apart from being very handy at building a furnace in the lounge, also seemed quite adept in aerodynamic construction, and using bin bags, garden canes, and help from the team, made an impressive looking kite. Other memorable events happened that day, but we wont go in to them here as its a family show; but that's what its all about, and as long as everyone enjoyed themselves that what counts isn't it!!! A big thanks to all who made the meet so enjoyable.

6 April: Ravensdale Meet: Steve Jolly

Members and guests present: Dave Dillon, Dave Whittingham, Dave Bone, Dave Wylie, Rob ert Clark, Linda Crossley, Anne Woolley, Alan Wylie, Carl Blakely, Julie Cook, Garry Thornhill, Ken Beetham, Colin Maddison, Norah Maddison, Rosin Maddison, Roger Mapleson, Brigitte Mapleson, Tony Major, Steve Jolley, Mark and Craig. (21 in total)

No rain, although some overcast weather at RAVENSADALE saw a good turn out for the first meet of the year on limestone. The routes were dry and not too polished. some good routes were done for so early in the year. Main efforts for the day concentrated on Raven buttress with Medusa (VS) and Mealy Bugs (VS) seeing most traffic. with Mealystopheles (VS 5a) and Mephistopheles (HVS) also being covered. Oh and thanks to Rob for recommending Conclusor with its mean and thin top 5a pitch! Julie and Gary were seen late on claiming to have done some routes at the Flying buttress end. Thanks to all who came along, Steve Jolley.

20 April: Presidents Hot Pot Meet: Phil Ramsbottom

Climbing Members: Dave Bone, Tony Major, Dave Wylie, Chris Williamson, Tony Gask, Al Metelko, Dave Dillon, Lester Payne, Dave Whittingham, Dave Shotton, Rich Johnson, Julie Johnson, Paul Harding, Gary Thornhill, Julie Cook, Roger Mapleson, Ken Beetham, Anne Wooley, Judith Symon, Jim Symon, Joe Flynn, Ian Bennet, Phil Ramsbottom (24)

Climbing Guests: Craig Marsden and family, Bridget Mapleson, Chris Harrison, Paul Reynolds, Ian Bennet's friend (7)

Walking Members: Chris Thicket, Pete Walker, Alan (L) Jones, Sandy Gregson, Jim Gregson, Margaret Williams, Frank Williams (7)

If the truth be told the fine snow which fell at times made me think that it really was too cold to climb, but as it did stay fine we felt obliged to try. When the sun broke through it actually felt reasonably warm so we persevered and were rewarded with a good day at the North (civilised) end of Stanage. Many routes were climbed and as usual even more were attempted, prize for the most ridiculous route of the day went to Paul Harding who thugged his way up The Vice - even Jim Symon said it was silly and the state of Pauls bandaged hands confirmed that. After much pleading, cajoling and threats superhero Rich Johnson volunteered to remove the runners, much to the relief of everyone else present. As for the walkers, Chris Thicket decided to walk from Yorkshire Bridge to the Swan arriving just in time for a pint as the doors opened, the remainder started from Bradwell and enjoyed a day on the Derwent Edges. At the Swan more members joined us to bring the numbers sitting down to the meal to 59, then we were entertained by Ken Wilson's comments on Ron Hill Tracksters and (now and then) our attempts at photography.

Prizes in the photo competition went to our really serious photographers: Rock Climbing Action Dave Dillon

Human Interest Dave Dillon

Mountain Landscape Jim Gregson

Mountaineering Action Jim Gregson

Thanks to everybody who helped out with the photo competition and provided fill in slides which sadly we did not have time to show. Special thanks once again to Alan (H) Jones for providing the projector.

26-27 April: Lake District Camping meet: Frank Williams

Present: Sandy and Jim Gregson, Peter Walker, Keith Williams, Margaret and Frank Williams.

The forecast was bad, the campsite is magic and the mountains superb, sublime. 25 personal invites were issued, two people sent their apologies and six lucky mountaineers turned up. We were outnumbered on the site, however, by a team of about 20 camping Morris persons (not just men) and also Morris Minors. Saturday SG, JG, FW, and MW did the planned walk over Seatallan, Haycock, Red Pike, and down from Dore Head. The day improved and we finished in peasant sunlight. PW and KW arrived at lunch time and decided to scramble on Buckbarrow and a walk over Carling Stone by Greendale Tarn and back down Greendale Beck. A reet good day was had by all finishing with the evening in the Screes pub in Nether Wasdale. Sunday dawned grey and with the clag well down the fells. Despite this PW and KW decided they'd like to go higher that the proposed Whin Rigg round and drove to Brakenclose, walked up Lingmell, up Scafell with thick mist and lots of people milling around. Then via Sprinkling Tarn, Sty Head and down to Wasdale Head and so back to Brackenclose. Again the day improved until we had bright sunshine in the afternoon. Party "B" did the planned walk over Whin Rigg and Illgill Head and SW over Tongue Moor to go down Miterdale. We climbed in lovely sunshine through Miterdale forest over Irton Fell and backto Flass and Nether Wasdale. Although all decamped M and F decided to stay Sunday night and avoid the traffic. On Monday we visited Gosforth's church of St. Mary to see the 1000 year old Nordic cross and the Green Man in the church, wonderful. Yer shudda bin there !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mallorca - the second adventure

The continuing saga from Phil Ramsbottom Tours.

Tuesday

After hearing the tale of the epic abseil descent in the dark Linda and I decided to spend the afternoon visiting the monastery on top of Puig de Maria, this is reached by a steep but short walk from Pollensa, we were lucky to have the top to ourselves and sitting there enjoying the view and sunshine with a nice cold beer was a welcome contrast to the previous day. We had had our adventure for the week, tomorrow we could get back to some serious walking. Little did we know!!! Meanwhile Iain was climbing Tomir, he has a great sounding plan to walk down the ridge to Pollensa so he decided to spend the day doing a recce.

Wednesday

The day started quite windy down on the coast so I favoured a walk in one of the inland valleys but Iain preferred to go up one of the big hills as it was still very sunny. When we parked the car at a village called Orient it was perfect so I was glad that we had gone with Iains suggestion. The plan was to climb L'Olfre which is the fifth highest peak on the island at 1091 metres, and then follow the high ridge over Puig de na Francesca to Sa Rateta then drop back down to the Coll des Basc before following the easy track back along the valley. We started off along a tarmac road which leads to a big farmhouse called Comasema, although we were following the route in a guidebook we came across a locked gate part way down this, other walkers we had met during the week had mentioned a growing problem with access across private land. It seems that the landowners have got wind of how much people like Thomsons are charging for their guided walks so they want a slice of the action (doesn't sound too unreasonable does it?), the trouble is that a.) Thomsons (and others) are so greedy that they don't want to share out the spoils and b.) once the gates are locked they are locked for everybody. Anyway we were faced with the choice of turning round and trying to find somewhere else to walk or climbing the gate - there was even a ladder down on the far side - what would you do? Once over the gate we picked up a series of signs in Spanish which directed us round the farmhouse (the guidebook actually tells you to go through it), do not take photos, do not make noise - not too unreasonable is it?

After this the serious part of the ascent began with an overgrown path climbing up a very steep hillside, at times the vegetation completely hid the path but a series of paint splodges helped us to emerge into a wood at the top. At the other side of the wood the path climbed up steeply once again before ending abruptly within a few metres of the summit of L'Olfre. The views were wonderful with the bay of Puerto Soller down below, Puig Major across the valley now desecrated by the military installation on the top, but once a very noble mountain with a very interesting looking buttress low down (sadly out of bounds because of the military set up). Our ridge too looked very interesting with very little vegetation showing through the pure white limestone. After a bite to eat we continued along the ridge, we had done the hard work for the day, we just had two short ascents to take us over the next two peaks. In such fantastic scenery, we were really enjoying ourselves, we dropped down to a col and then climbed 100 metres up to Puig de na Francesca, after this there was only another short 100 metre climb to the last peak and we would be on our way down. The path down to the Col des Prat followed a series of small cairns which guided us round a rocky buttress, down a short rock step, then along a narrow path to the large flat area of grassy at the col. It was as we were walking along the narrow path that Pam slipped, I didn't actually see he go as I was watching my own feet on the path but I heard a sort of crunching sound, straight away she shouted out 'Oh my ankle'. Despite our attempts at first aid, after about 45 minutes Pam still couldn't put her foot on the ground so it was obvious that we needed some help, it was about four o clock so we decided that I would go back to Orient as there was a chance that if I could get down quickly we would be able to get her off that night. Iain and Linda decided to stay with her whilst I went for help. I tried not to rush the descent as I was very conscious of the fact that I was the only person who knew where the other three were. As I walked I occupied my mind by trying to remember all the Spanish words which I would need and then, once I knew I was safe on the road, I ran the last couple of miles. I got back to Orient at twenty to six and went into a bar where I managed to make the barman understand me, he kindly phoned the Guardia Civil, who turned out after another 40 minutes. After a conference between the barman and the Guardia it was decided that the best way to get to Pam was to drive round the other side of the mountain, where there is a track up the valley which runs parallel to the ridge, the track is locked but the Guardia could get the key.

The Guardia set off in their Citroen, I followed. Bear in mind that these are some of the narrowest road on the island and they knew them well, they also had a siren, flashing lights and the respect of all the other motorists. I had a hired Opel Corsa. We went though a new tunnel (free to the Guardia and friends), passing a line of cars in the tunnel at 120kph, through Soller where there is a tram service, I know this because I glanced to my right once and saw it about 20 metres away and coming towards me. We went down one street which was so narrow I felt like shutting my eyes, especially at the place where someone had parked a mini skip half on the pavement. Eventually we got to the police station where they changed their Citroen for a 4 wheel drive and we all piled in and were off again, siren on, lights flashing, people diving out of the way, in different circumstances it would have been brilliant. By the time we got to the right point on the track it was dark, they gave me a torch and said 'now we walk'. There is no path up to the col from this valley, they did not have any equipment at all, only their green uniforms, I only had a Tee shirt as I had left all my warm clothes with the others. We made pretty good progress (for pathless Spanish ground) getting to probably within 200-300 metres of them but despite shouting and whistling we could not get any response apart from two blasts from the whistle which I had left with Linda. Unfortunately, only I heard these. Eventually the Guardia came to a stop and obviously did not want to go on, I could understand this when they explained that they felt that someone else had come across Pam and helped to get her down, I tried to convince them that this was not at all likely but I got nowhere. So I had to turn back very reluctantly and lead them down to the car. With hindsight this didn't make any difference as I was only warm if I kept moving so I couldn't have done anything even if we had got to them.

Back at the police station they started to ask where we were staying and what were our names. I gave them all the relevant details which they promptly relayed over the radio, I didn't appreciate it at the time but this marked the birth of Felix Roberts. I eventually realised that they were still convinced that Pam was now down safe and tucked up nice and warm in bed so they were sending out people to confirm this. I could only make out the odd phrase through the static laden crackle but it didn't come as any surprise to find that the search was to prove pointless. Eventually they decided to call in the sergeant. His decision was that we would start again first thing in the morning with two 'expeditions', one from the track where we had just been, the other walking the ridge from L'Olfre as we had done during the day. I was to lead the party along our route. I tried to get them to let me go from the track as I knew that this was the easiest way but they explained that they needed me to guide them as they did not know the way. At last I was allowed to go, I drove back across the island to the flat to find a note left by the two Daves 'The Guardia have been looking for a Mr Felix Roberts who is lost on the mountain', they soon appeared to give me a few details, they had been woken up by the lads in green, after initially assuring them that they didn't know a Felix Roberts they decided to check our room only to find it empty, this left them wondering what was going on so, as they made me a very welcome brew, I gave them an account of the adventure to date. At last at half past midnight I eventually got to bed.

Thursday

In the morning I met up with the Guardia at 7:30 in Orient, there were six of them, thanks to the ability of the Guardia to unlock gates we were able to drive the first couple of miles, then we started to walk about 8:00, by 8:15 the older sergeant had had enough and set off back with one of the others, the four left were much fitter and despite me setting a pretty respectable pace could keep up without trouble. They even paused for a smoke and to take photos. I found it a serious responsibility to have to watch four complete mountaineering novices without any equipment so I had to try and keep them together and explain the rudiments of the dangers of loose stones etc., to make matters worse they were convinced that we had to search for the 'three lost hikers' so they were constantly trying to spread out, this wasn't a good idea as the ridge dropped away very steeply on each side. At last we reached Pam at 9:50, although I knew that they would be OK I was still very relieved to find them in exactly the same place I had left them and in surprisingly good spirits despite a very cold (but incredibly starry) night.

The Guardia got on the radio and presumably called for help, within what seemed like about 20 minutes there were green uniforms everywhere, some had come up in ordinary shoes (still with the shine on), it must have been desperately uncomfortable - especially going back down. They were all great characters, the four who had come up with me could not speak English but some of the more recent arrivals seemed to want to practice, they all wanted pictures of themselves tending the casualty so I only managed to take a few with my camera as I they kept passing me their cameras to use. After a few conferences they decided that we would carry Pam down from the col to the track, this worried all of us, (especially Pam) as carrying a stretcher is a specialised thing, besides that, they didn't seem to have one with them. Then all of sudden there was much activity and the cameras were all out again as a Sea King helicopter appeared in the valley just above the track. It climbed up very slowly and, as we were on about the only bit of level ground for about a mile in any direction it was able to land a few metres away from us, a character jumped out dressed in a wet suit with a huge dagger strapped to his leg, this seemed a little over the top as the nearest lake was at least two miles away and we were 1000 metres up, still we were very pleased to see him. We all piled in to the helicopter, this was a mistake on my part as I didn't realise that the Guardia would not get in with us and I didn't really trust them to get back down without mishap, unfortunately I didn't realise this until we were airborne. A few minutes later we were touching down on a building site a few metres from the hospital in Palma, this caused tremendous interest (we didn't realise that our adventure was such big news at the time). In the hospital Pam was whisked off and received excellent treatment, leaving us to complete all the forms and paperwork.

At this point a reporter from a TV company appeared asking for an interview, it seemed he had been over to Orient and then saw the helicopter going the other way so he had been chasing it across the island in his car. At first we weren't interested, but once we had established that Pam was OK we decided that I would speak to him just to say that all was well and to thank everyone for all the concern which had been shown. He seemed all right and did not ask any awkward questions (probably difficult as he was speaking in English) so it seemed to go well. Pam was x-rayed very quickly and the break was confirmed, she was given a choice of having the ankle strapped up, staying in hospital overnight and then going straight to the airport to catch her plane the next day; or having an operation to set the ankle and stopping in hospital for eight days, She chose the first option. Once we knew that she was in good hands the three of us set off to get back to the car in Orient. This did not prove to be easy, the plan was to get a taxi to the train station, train to Bunyola and then a taxi to Orient, sounds simple until you get of the train in Bunyola and ask where the taxi is. There isn't one in the whole village and it is ten kilometres along a very quiet road to Orient. I left Linda and Iain to get something to eat and tried to hitch a lift but I soon gave that up and started to walk, after all the excitement this was lovely and peaceful with only about half a dozen cars passing me in an hour, eventually a German couple gave me a lift so I was back just in time to hear that they had enjoyed a very nice lunch of egg and chips, I did manage a last beer though.

Meanwhile the normal people had gone climbing, after our epic on the Monday Rowena insisted on 'bolted single pitch routes'. On Wednesday they opted for Cala Magraner where they met up with lots of other climbers from various parts of the continent. They had obviously seen a lot of sun as Dave W had a face like a lobster with white panda eyes where his sunglasses had been. Thursday was spent back at Sa Gubia, where they enjoyed a day on the slabs of Princess and Silicona Sectors where there are a number of recent 'easy' (grade 4 and 5) routes. Sue did try and suggest an attempt at the grade 5 variation to Gubia Normal but I believe it met with stony silence. On Thursday night Iain came round and we all went for a meal and plenty of much needed drink.

Friday

Pam and Iain were due to fly back in the afternoon, the two Daves, Sue and Rowena late in the evening so after a late start which might just have had something to do with the previous nights drinking they did a bit of shopping and then spent the afternoon at Creveta.

So that was the Mallorca meet, it was certainly different, as Dave Whittingham said later, "let's go again next year and have a really boring time".

Pam is now recovering slowly, she has had her ankle screwed together and is currently wearing a cast although she can now put the leg on the ground (very gently).

Felix Roberts

June 1997 Newsletter Index.

Copyright © 1997 Karabiner Mountaineering Club