Karabiner Mountaineering Club

September 1997 Newsletter Meet Reports

March 14-17 1997: Inbhirfhaolin, Glen Etive: Tony Gask

Defendants: Tony Gask, Lester Payne, Graham Harkness, John Dobson, Ian Lee, Keith Todd.

The Charge: Anthony John Gask did conspire with persons aforesaid to travel to the Scottish highlands where they did fail to carry out any significant mountaineering, contrary to KMC practice. All plead not guilty.

The facts: Lester and Tony made a late start on Friday morning, did proceed in a northerly direction, as far as Loch Lomond, in cloudy conditions [Ed - hung over?], and did claim to have bagged Ben Vane, a known Munro. In the evening Inbhirfhaolin was reached, meeting most of the other defendants where determined assaults were made on the solid fuel stove (In mitigation they say they were trying to light it) They also did lurk round various bushes, alleging they were looking for A. Loo, alias Elsan. Graham had an alibi, not arriving until early the next morning, at breakfast, due having been for a curry after work (he works in Geordie land you recall) Fortunately Elsan had been found by then.

It is alleged that the plan was to go up the Ben, preferably by No 5 gully, all to do with Tony being over the hill, or some such nonsense. The furthest they got on Saturday was Kinlockleven (plea of diminished mental state) and walked back to Inbhirfhaolin. Lester is cleared of this charge, having used the "my boots are killing me" precedent and returned to Kinlockleven. Precipitation in sight, as they say in the shipping forecast, summarises that walk; what was not in sight was inside Tony's so called waterproofs. A quick change and a cup of tea then it was drive back to Kinlockleven to collect Tony's car and rescue his tapes from Lester's clutches. Another chapter in the annals of mountaineering was not made; in mitigation a visit to the Clachaig pub is cited. Sunday: more precipitation in sight. A walk was made almost as far as Etive slabs, across very boggy ground, but all lost interest before getting there. Back at the hut, luncheon was taken, before most of the team shot off to Nevis sport, now there's a hint of mountaineering surely. It is a lovely quite spot, a cosy hut once the solid fuel stove is mastered. They are slowly doing it up by the way, and have started making a nice kitchen, though no plumbing yet, and one still has to collect water from the burn.

Monday: continuing unsettled, with showers, heavy at times: the forecast for another low level walk, along part of the highland way, starting at Blackmount and ending up near that Glencoe ski areas (virtually no snow) where a double car act was performed. It hardly rained at all, though the cloud level was down, so a Munro could have been bagged, but getting wet four days on the trot is sometimes too much to contemplate

Verdict: not guilty, due to adverse meteorological conditions; the defendants are acquitted but advised to go to Mallorca next year.

I was getting rather fed up with Scotland that winter, with little snow to ski on, and generally mild/wet conditions, a private trip in April was spoilt by the weather. Our visit to Skye in June was by contrast fantastic, very warm, a brilliant blue ski most of the time; the only complications being dehydration and the wear and tear on my finger ends. I managed to climb up the Cioch, the Dubh slabs rising majestically from Coruisk, and the Bastier Tooth (thanks to Mark)

Later in the summer I did something else I had been meaning to do for some time, namely go up one of the Monte Rosa peaks, a snow plod but it is such a grand situation way above 4000 metres. This was part of a holiday based on hut to hut in the Italian, Aosta area, which I recommend very highly. The huts were of a high standard (the Abruzzi hut excepted, not recommended) large amounts of excellent food and generally comfortable sleeping quarters, all with interesting loos. I recall the place which had fine flushing loos, two of them, but a block some 300 metres away, and especially this dialogue as someone was setting off across the snow in his flip flops: "It's quite a trek to the loos ...Well they're built in the french style ... what? ... Toulouse Lautrec!"

AND NOW: Seriously now a word about the KMC, after 20 years as a member I can claim to have seen its moods, many changes, controversies and intrigues, not the least to do with the hut, so I really mean it when I say the KMC is in very good shape and I am glad to be a member. Which is why I am doing another meet this October.

May 31st - June 6th 1997: Gen Brittle Meet: Phil Ramsottom

Members: Chris Thickett, Tony Gask, John Thorley, Mark Garrod, Dave Whittingham, Dave Wylie, Michelle Harvey, Dave Bone, Ken Beetham, Phil Ramsbottom.

Guests: Moira Jeffrey, Grant Jeffrey, Gary Latter, Paul Broadbent (Stork), Linda Ramsbottom.

If you keep returning to Skye year in year out (as several of us have done) eventually you get the weather that you dream about, and this folks was it - THE YEAR WHEN THE SUN SHINES. Right from arriving on the Saturday morning, through to Wednesday we enjoyed perfect climbing on lovely warm dry gabbro with a nice breeze to keep us comfortable. All sorts of routes were completed, hardest by a KMC member being Vulcan Wall by Dave Bone and Mark, the old favourites got a bashing, Cioch West, Cioch Direct, Arrow Route, Integrity, Kings Chimney and of course the Innaccesible Pinnacle. The new guide was just out so Mark and the Daves enjoyed a rest day at Flodigarry, then, not satisfied with this the Daves ventured on to some sea stacks at Ardtrek Point to attempt to find a new route or two - they survived but (having seen the photos it must have been touch and go) Hardest by a non-KMC member was Gary and Storks new route on the Great Prow of Blaven - Finger in the Dyke 130M E5 6a, 5c,5c - one day maybe - I can dream can't I.

Scrambling highlights were The Dubh Ridge from Elgol, Bidean Druim Nan Ramh (not bad for Lindas first day in the Cuillin), as for the walking Ken enjoyed the path out to the point and a few of us watched a shoal of dolphins as we walked from Talisker Bay to Fiscavaig. For me one of the highlights was all 1600 feet of the ascent of Sgurr Na Stri from Elgol, this must be one of the best 'easy to reach' views in the country. Tips we learnt this year include: Skye Bridge tickets can be bought (from the office at the barrier) for 25.10 pounds which gives you 10 crossings - valid for twelve months (cheaper still after the recent anouncement - 12.50 pounds - I think), so buy a set and sell them on the campsite, or at the hut - much better than paying the full price of 5.40 pounds each way. Don't let them see you doing it or they will spoil the fun.

Cheers, Phil

June 1th 1997: Peak Rock, Wimberry Rocks: Dave Shotton

Guests present: John Eastwood, John Jones, Chris Ivory, Joan Stewart, Caz Stuart

After a slowish start, it was good to see a reasonable number of people at a venue which is not to everyone's taste! The weather was sunny and cloudless, but as is often the case the Wimberry Rocks micro-climate created very windy conditions at the crag itself. Most of the climbing activity centred on the easier routes up to Hard Severe standard, with Route I and Bertie's Bugbear proving to be the most popular. Bob Anderson soloed the somewhat thin Slab Climb (Severe), which later also succumbed to Jim and Judith. Around the VS/HVS level there were however ascents of Herringbone Slab (slightly serious at HVS 4c) and Route II by Dave Dillon and by Levi, and Kevin and Joan arrived later in the day and climbed the off-width Coffin Crack. A couple of non-climbing guests also made an appearance at various times - Caz Stuart (no relation) arrived with Mary but went off for a walk, and the two Johns (John Eastwood being a friend of the meet leader from a recent foray into the world of work) stopped by on a walk between the Dove Stone and Chew Reservoirs but declined the offer of a top-rope on Bertie's Bugbear. With the wind rising and the most appealing routes already climbed, many people headed for the tea van before the end of the day, with a few keener types stopping off at the Wimberry Boulders on the way.

Dave Shotton

7th/8th June: Ty Powdwr: Joanne Hepburn

After a week of glorious sunshine we set out on Friday evening towards Wales, and sure enough the heavens opened ! Oh well, if it rains all Friday evening at least it might not rain on Saturday (always the optimist). Me and Vinny arrived at the hut along with Mick a friend of mine who, by the way is looking for people who can climb at strange times, or was it strange people who can climb, anyway back to the original story. Chris and Julie arrived late Friday night so after tea and a chat we retired ready to rise early to apply the suntan lotion the following day! Did I say suntan lotion, no chance, the rain was intermittent and heavy for most of the day and the wind was fairly strong however, Chris and Julie did Clogwyn Y Person Arete, Mick did Y Garn and me and Vinny went up Moel Siabod. On returning to the hut the majority of people had arrived and Fergus was setting up a slide show of his travels in Sri Lanka and India, Anne, Al and the Maplesons went for an evening climb in the slate quarries and all was well with the world. Sunday morning greeted us with more rain and the prospect of horse riding, we must be mad I kept telling myself as we drove to the stables with the windscreen wipers going full pelt!! As it was things turned out well, the rain kept off for most of the ride. Julie ended up with a nutty horse called Blossom who had two speeds, stop and flat out! the rest of us were on much more sedate animals (the rest being Chris, Vinny and the Maplesons). There was a selection of mountain biking, climbing and walking done in addition to the horse riding, thanks to everyone who turned up and I will try and arrange better weather next time.

29th June: Birchen Edge "Grit Awards '97": Dave Wylie

5-12th July: Cornish Counsel: The Great Zawn

The People came to meet him and ask him: Give us of your Truth.

The Irish Lady said: Pray tell me how long doth it take to boileth an egge? And He answered: You would measure time the measureless and the immeasurable ... errr depends whether you like it soft or hard. She lay beneath the stars with a hot Toddy. She asketh the man if he had early morning stiffness.

And the Bearded Saab spoke, saying tell me of the cure of the pain of the big toe. The Bearded Saab brought offerings of knowledge of the mathematics of the earth's elements. The Great Zawn said: much of your pain is self-chosen, examine your backside.

The a holistic therapist came forth and said: Oh, Great Zawn, take me to great heights. And it came to pass that he rose and obliged for which she showed gratitude and she lay down for him and the power of his hands brought great relief and comfort.

When the Great Zawn felt happy, the sun shone and the Great Zawn lay and beheld his people conquer many Very Difficult challenges.

Cathy laid back and Engineered her way up the Anvil Chorus. Dave Bone beamed and Levi-tated his way up many a Hopeless Vertical Slab. Dave Shotton Demo'd his crochet skills though the nose of the Route. David Baily-Wylie saved himself for greater things to come. And one of the Great Zawn's people, lover of unreachable heights, sought to take the Great Zawn where gulls build their nests. The people heard her cries and the beating of wings and watched the prom-enade where the Lands End.

When the Great Zawn was not happy, the rains fell, so his people packed up and went home.

This is a work of facticity. Any relationship to and work of fiction or allusion to anything other than climbing or the actual events is entirely coincidental.

5th-6th, July 1997: Ty Powdwr, Walking/Climbing Meet: Frank Williams

Sorry if I've missed anybody, but we had a good turnout and I think everybody had a good weekend, with some very active mountaineering. Saturday RB and SK planned a multi crag climbing tour and managed a combination of Ordinary+Hope+Charity on Idwal Slabs, Lazarus on Holly Tree Wall, then The Arete on Continuation Wall and finally the Sub Cneifion Arete. KW and PW climbed four routes on Milestone Buttress (stories of getting body jammed!), JF, LP and MT did Skylon and Crackstone Rib on Carreg Wasted three on a rope and LP had no rock boots ! SM, LW and TM climbed at Gogarth doing something mind bogglingly hard, like E1 5b New Passage, True Moment and Freebird !!!! Equally DL and RA did some hard stuff but I'll have to direct you to the log book 'cos I didn't get the details. Walkers AP, FW, MW, AB and ARB walked the Nantlle Ridge and Pennant Valley in good conditions, examining the dedicated restoration progress of the lead mine pumping wheel at Cwm Ciprwth on the way round. CT soloed around, walking and scrambling, through the quarries to Nant Peris, up Cwm Glas and the Parsons Nose, Crib-Y-Dysgil, then down the Snowdon Ranger and back over Moel Elio, quite a day. I think that's nearly everybody for Saturday. Sunday, again, refer to the log book (lets hope people wrote it up) since M and I were off early as usual and I haven't got details except I know RB and DL did some mountain biking. FW, MW, AP, TG, KW and PW walked above the Conwy Valley and Tal-y-Bont. We drove to Llyn Eigiau walking over Pen Llithrig-y-wrâch, Bwlch Trimarchog, up to Penyrhelgi-du, by Penywaun-wen near Graig Yr Ysfa and over Carnedd Llwellyn. We then enjoyed views of the Melyllyn and the mysterious black cwm of Dulyn reservoir as we walked back down Cefn Tal-llyn-Eigiau to the start. Unfortunately we never saw them, but KW and PW chased us all the way round. All had a very enjoyable day as the mist disappeared literally as we approached each top. So thanks for coming folks and enjoying a great weekend from the hut, there was a great spirit of the hills !

September 1997 Newsletter Index.

Copyright © 1997 Karabiner Mountaineering Club