Karabiner Mountaineering Club

May 1998 Newsletter Forthcoming Meets

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."

May 10: Peak Climbing - Black Rocks: Dave Wylie

In an increasingly desperate attempt to (a) go somewhere new and (b) get a bit more mileage out of the Chatsworth guidebook that I've only used once so far, I've picked Black Rocks for the mid May Sunday climbing meet.

There are loads of routes here at virtually all grades: from six Moderates up to two E8's (and even an unconfirmed E9!). Plenty of starred middle grade routes for us to have a go at if we're not feeling up to "Gaia". And there's bouldering too - what more could we wish for? (Stop that muttering about Pubs and Tea Shops...)

To get there, head South from Matlock a couple of miles down the A6 to Cromford, then follow the B5036 South towards Wirksworth. Just over a mile uphill, a lane forks left. This should be signposted for the crag. There is a car park along here according to the guide, only two minutes from the crag (which should be clearly visible).

I should be turning up at the crag in the late morning sometime, probably around 11-ish. See you there!

May 16-17: Working party Ty Powdwr: Dave Wylie

Bit of a tricky one this time. We're planning to replace the cold water tank. Why? well, put it this way: if you've been drinking the water at the hut from the taps that this tank feeds, then you certainly shouldn't be short of Iron! The old metal tank is rusting badly. If it were to spring a leak then nearly two tons of water could be deposited into the hallway, so it is time to do something about it. We're currently investigating how big a plastic tank we can get up into the loft, and hopefully we'll have bought a suitable replacement in time.

The problem is, of course, that if we're replacing the tank, then we'll have to turn off the hot water, and manage on one (directly fed) cold tap at best. This means that we really don't want too many people turning up at the hut on this weekend.

We WILL however need some help; as we also want to put in the lintel for the new door into the ladies loo. This needs to be done while the water's been drained, as the wall we need to knock through is supporting the (two tons of) water tank!

The skills we need are mainly plumbing and building related; but PLEASE contact me IN ADVANCE to offer your help, so that we can co-ordinate things.

Thanks in advance, Dave Wylie (Hut Manager).

May 23-25: Rock Climbing, Fairhead, Ireland: Duncan Lee

A final plug and a little more information to tempt you off the couch and over the Irish Sea but first its time for those useful telephone numbers again.

SeaCat Ferry services : 0990 - 523523

Sealink Ferry services : 01574 - 273616

Stenaline Ferry services : 01232 - 747747

Just to recap - Fairhead, on the North Coast of County Antrim East of the market town of Ballycastle, is undoubtedly one of the British Isles best crags. It is well worth the extra effort to get there. The cliff is over 2 miles long attaining 400 ft in height in places and is superbly located overlooking Rathin Island and The Mull of Kintyre.

The rock is basalt and columnar in nature (a giant Giants' Causeway) thus providing perfect crack and corner systems at very regular intervals. Most of the routes follow the soaring cracks, so take a substantial rack. Most routes are multi pitch (VS and above), most are superb and queues are non existent. A crack climbers paradise far from the maddening crowds.

In the case of the unlikely event of rainfall, the area offers lots of sites to see and touristy things to do such as drink Guinness, visit Giants Causeway, drink Guinness, visit the Bushmills Distillery, drink whisky, venture across Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, eat dulce (sea weed), drink Guinness, eat soda bread, drink Guinness, yummy, etc,.

May 31: Peak Limestone, Dovedale: Al Metelko

Park at Milldale (138 548). To ensure a parking place get there early. The plan is to start on Ravens Tor (141 539) in the morning and then move on to the magnificent Ilam Rock. Most of the routes are in the medium to hard grades, but easier climbs can be found at Tissington Spires.

See me in the pub to arrange lifts

Jun 6-7: Ty Powdyr: Vinny Goodwin

The Hut is booked for a grand weekend out. Come on down and strut your stuff.

Jun 14; Wildcat Tor: D Whittingham

Mystery entertainment at this gem of limestone climbing. Tea shops within a three second stroll. Sunshine guaranteed, says Dave.

Jun 20-21: Lakes Camping: K Anderson

The proposal is to camp near Pillar Rock, there is a bit of a walk in but well worth the effort. Parking at the bottom of the Ennerdale valley bellow Bowness Knott and walk up to outflow of High Beck. Possible to follow this to Windgap Cove. Usual sorts of camouflaged tents will be required. Bring climbing kit and Didsbury Lunch.

See Kevin for the precise grid ref. and late booking deals....

Jun 28: Yorkshire Grit: R Kruze

Of all the great Yorkshire venues to choose from: Brimham, Gordale, Malham or maybe Ilkley. No, if you're going to choose one go for the best - Almscliff. (Are those groans of delight I can hear in the background?)

It's a brilliant setting high above the Wharfe valley. You can see it from miles around but getting to it requires a bit of careful navigation (..er Rick didn't get there last time..). You need to get onto the A658, Bradford to Harrogate road and take the left turn signposted Stainburn about 1.5 miles out of Pool Bank. Follow the lane and turn right at the T-junction in the village. About half a mile up the road you come to the crag. The best parking is straight ahead with the crag on your right-hand side. Please park carefully as there are only limited spaces.

Right on to the climbing - it's brill. There are great routes of all grades from Decidedly Difficult (check the guide if you don't believe me) to Impossible (I made that grade up) and of course the only 4 start route in the guidebook; Great Western. So pack up your EBs and an assortment of Friends and come to one of the best climbing venues around - not that I'm biased or anything.

Jul 4-5: Lakes Camping / Scrambling: A Croughton

Lakes camping, that says it all really. (I hope so anyway because I have not decided exactly where I will be camping yet).

The most likely place will be at Nether Wasdale like we have for the past two years, but I am trying to find a new venue for this year. Wherever I go the intention is still to camp (or possibly stay in a hut) and walk , scramble, climb and generally frolic in the sun atop the beautiful mountains of the Lake District.

For all those who are interested and would like to know more exact details of where I will be staying , or who have any suggestions as to where would be a good site to base ourselves for some good scrambling routes, please contact me sometime before the meet and I will be glad to listen to your suggestions.

Jul 11-12: Northumberland - Peel Crag and Crag Lough: P Leeson

These ever so slightly west facing and very much north facing crags are a rough cut gem for those who cut their climbing teeth on the emeralds of the 'southern' gritstone crags. Well, the grit is a long way south from Hadrians Wall - and that's where these two crags are. A very peaceful and beautiful spot for those that like climbing in relative peace and tranquillity. Crag Lough in particular overlooks a lake upon which a pair of swans is always seen plus a few tenacious fishermen from time to time who come to tempt the Trout.

The climbing is extremely good with routes ranging from those of grit length to routes of 27m - including three star classics such as Great Chimney (S) and Main Wall (S). Plenty in the diff to severe range plus a few at harder grades - mind you this is Northumberland and it has its reputation...... The guide is the Northumberland guide by John Earl.

The most important things. Camping - we should be camping at Winshields Farm to the west of Twice Brewed at GR NY 744 668 on the OS Map no. 87 1:50,000, although there are one or two other spots around to pitch a tent. The BEER is in the PUB at Twice Brewed which is what the beer tasted like last time I was there, but only a short walk from the camp site.

All being well we'll see you there in droves. If its warm it'll be excellent..... Cheers

Jul 18-19: Climbing - Cader Idris: B Anderson

This will be a camping meet based at Mrs Thomas's site immediately adjacent to the car park at GR 698 152. From the centre of Dolgellau head west on a minor road for 200 yards then branch left onto another minor road (signed Cader Idris on wall) Pass the Gwernan Lake Hotel (bar and bar meals) to car park 1/2 mile further on. Camp in field immediately behind the car park (signed Thomas Camping).

Loads of slab routes on Cyfrwy up to VS with good harder routes (HVS upwards) on Pencoed Pillar on south side of mountain (Craig Cau).

My intention is to make the meet a sort of memorial to Bowden Black who put up two excellent routes on Cyfrwy in 1951.

Jul 25-26; Ty Powdyr: N Maddison

Norah plans to have a classic climbing weekend at the hut. She will be providing baked cakes in exchange for climbing partners who accompany her on classic mountain routes. She would welcome a full hut as she plans to do lots of routes and usually tires out her partners quite quickly. She has learnt from bitter experience that most of the KMC men just don't have the staying power, and so needs many in reserve. She informs me she has started baking already. Get your order in now while the ovens are being fired up.

Aug 1-2: Ullswater Long Walk: V Castick

This Spectacular walk through some of the finest scenery in the Lake District is one not to he missed. Based at Glenridding, the walk will start and finish in Pooley Bridge. The route will take in High Street, Red Screes, Fairfield, Helvellyn and the Dodds.

There are many escape points if you don't want to do the full 35 miles. An alternative walk around Ullswater is also possible at a lower level and only 20 miles, all on paths, no road walking.

The walk will be fully supported by my faithful team of sherpas. Accommodation will be in a bunkhouse in Glenridding if sufficient numbers request it, otherwise there are several campsites.

Write the date in your diary now so that you can start training immediately.

Aug 8-9: Ty Powdyr FRCC joint meet; B Anderson

This is the annual joint meet with the FRCC. Come and support it, climb with a new partner or just do a bit of socialising, remember we have the use of their 5 huts in the lakes so getting to know a few of their members will make staying in their huts more enjoyable.

May 1998 Newsletter Index.

Copyright © 1998 Karabiner Mountaineering Club