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September 1998 Newsletter Meet Reports
July 11th - 12th: Peel Crag, Northumberland: Pete Leeson
Members - Cathy Devine, Mark Garrod, Chris Williamson, Pete Leeson (meet leader)
Guests - Jeremy Engineer (is he still a guest? Get his cash, treasurer!)
Friday - The pub at Twice Brewed (which is just what the beer tasted like) turned up the charm, through open its doors and, despite the weather, we just had to see what it was all about. Once ensconced we decided it was pretty much like a pub really. It sold beer and stuff, crisps, gin, whiskey and chocolate bars. Yes very much like a pub really - everyone stared at my shorts and laughed at Chris' all singing all dancing trousers cum advert for Cotswold Camping. Got ejected before the lock in. So after beer went to bed and listened to the rain.
(In the following passage at * you may delete as appropriate)
Saturday dawned dry, warm and sunny - not a breath of wind / Saturday dawned cool, windy and a little damp*. Much breakfasting in the warm sun / cool breeze *. Much slapping on of factor 15 / wrapping up warm *. We left for the crag early and enthusiastic because it looked like a perfect day for climbing / we left it as long as possible before making a move *. You may get the gist or you may not.
Actually on arrival at the crag we found it to be reasonably dry and not too cold. For anyone who has not been to Peel Crag (shame on you) it faces due north and is therefore ideal for climbing in the hot balmy summers we have up here. The teams soon got to work on Sunset (MS) and Sunset Direct (S) (in the sure knowledge that we would not see one later in the day). Sunset is the three star classic of the crag and an excellent route - well worth the drive. The rain that fell during these first routes of the day really acted as spur to greater things and we all speeded up in order to get another one in before disaster struck. Twin Cracks (VS) and Overhanging Crack (MVS) soon followed and an attempt was made on the horribly greasy and lichenous Albert's wall (E1). A few words were had with Blasphemy Wall (HVS) before moving on to lunch. The weather had improved adequately to allow a really good sit down picnic and a yarg (ancient Norse for taking the Michael out of Chris' trousers, Jeremy's hair, Cath's roots etc.). Whilst lunching we saw what looked like an impossibly hard overhang being climbed above us - really photogenic. As a joke some one suggested we did it but it turned out to be the route of the afternoon and at VS 4c an extremely good fun climb with oodles of pose value for the tourists!! One or two other routes were climbed before we all decided enough was enough and that we ought to take a look at the Wall. So we saddled up and took quick walk along the bottom of Crag Lough and along the lake shore the back over the wall (past the bit where they filmed Dobin Hodd Prince of Shropshire I think some one said). Our walk ended with a little game called 'spot the sunset' which is a common past time up on the fells here. I won't describe the evening other than by saying - food, beer, bed. All in all an excellent sociable climbing day thoroughly enjoyed by all.
Sunday dawned (oh no not all this all over again!) wet and windy. If anyone needed justification not to have turned up to my meet this was it. Cats and dogs had nothing in it. After breaking camp and playing 'slosh', 'goretex scarecrows', 'soggy foot and damp knee' (and other local summer favourites) we met up in the café at Greenhead. Another yarg and agreement to do it all again next year all washed down with tea and butties.
Thanks for all those who turned up to make this a short but highly entertaining weekend.
July 24th: The Beest, Beeston Tor: Goose
Back at Beeston for the second weekend in a row, this time with Rob Allen who wanted to do Pocket Symphony.
Wasn't sure about the Beest. It looked a bit grubby, overgrown and obviously nobody had climbed it in quite some time. Set off up the initial groove and got quite pumped fiddling gear in as I had left any bigger stuff in my 'sack. Eventually moved over the first bulge and got a good rest as I was already pumped. Stood around for ages recovering and eventually looked at the crux. Up, down, up, down - about three times. I could at least now see what to do. A good undercut - use the highest of two - left foot in the pocket - again the highest - right hand to an intermediate hold, smear right foot on anything it sticks to, then right hand again and hope it's a jug. It was. Can't fiddle any gear in and really pumped now. Keep climbing or get some gear? I keep climbing and manage a semi-rest. Manage to get a medium hex in sideways and traverse right on steep ground and reasonable pockets but nothing for the feet. Pumped stupid by now I reach the sanctuary of a foothold and less steep rock. I stand there for five minutes whilst the pain in my forearms dies down - that's how pumped they are. I place another runner and then climb twenty five feet up grass-covered rock as I've no more extenders left.
Rob has done Pocket Symphony but isn't looking forward to seconding this. I tell him he's a Broughton powerhouse but he tells me to shut up. He has a struggle, manages the crux, rests on the gear and the hex catapults out and smacks him in the face! He sports a good lump and a smattering of blood on his forehead. A woman belaying on the slab opposite laughs at the cruelty of this act. The Beest claims another victim!
August 1st -2nd: Ullswater Long Walk: Virginia Castick
Members John Castick Virginia Castick Lester Payne John Dwyer
Frank Williams Margaret Williams Alan (L) Jones Sheena Hendrie Graham Harkness Sue Harkness
Guests Joanne Castick Fay Castick Phil Peam Lynn Peam
The objective of the weekend was to walk round Ullswater, originally intended as a one day marathon over lots of mountains. The reality was a leisurely two day walk over some interesting ground at a lower height and a lesser distance.
Out of line with a continuous run of foul weather, we were blessed with two continuous fine days making the walks a pleasure not a route march.
Graham cycled from Lanchester to Glenridding on Friday. A fantastic effort considering the appalling rainstorms he encountered.
We started in Glenridding on Saturday , walked to Patterdale, Boardale Hause and Angletarn Pikes. Here John and Fay left us for a shorter walk to Howtown and a steamer trip back. John was given some vague instructions on cooking a meal for ten people in the evening. We continued to the Knott where we turned sharp left to follow the Roman Road to Pooley Bridge. Due to a brief spell of mist and too much gossiping we didn't turn sharp left enough but the mists parted in time and we were soon back on track. The walk down the broad ridge was really pleasant on soft springy turf and not much bog. Alan, nursing his knackered knees, took a shorter route to finish at Howtown. The rest of us arrived in Pooley Bridge in time for tea and ice creams before the last steamer took us back to Glenridding in style. The on board bar and terrific views rounded off a lovely day.
Meanwhile back in Glenridding the reluctant chef had done a wonderfiil job in preparing us all a meal. Joanne, whilst helping to serve it, poured boiling water over her arm thus ensuring she didn't have to walk on the second day. There must be less painful ways of avoiding a KMC walk.
On Sunday, in bright sunshine, the walkers left to resume the walk at Pooley Bridge by taking a bus ride along the lake. John took a laid back approach to the intricate navigation required in negotiating the paths to Dockray but they all got there anyway. A leisurely pint in the gardens of the pub led to the final section of beautiful paths high above the lakeside and around the head of Glencoyne. The last bit over Sheffield Pike led to a steep descent straight into the garden for tea and teacakes.
Thanks to all who came and completed the circuit. I hope you all enjoyed walking in some lesser known bits of the Lake District. I certainly enjoyed planning it and having your company for the weekend.
You will be pleased to know that by Monday morning the weather had reverted to normal and it rained continuously all day.
August 8th: KMC/FRCC joint meet: Bob Anderson
Present:- Pete Walker, Tony Gask, Alan Wylie, Dave Wylie, Eric Hallam, Ethel Hallam (G), Len Stubbs, Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie, Tony Major, Dave Bone, Lester Payne, Ann Wooley, Margaret Williams, Frank Williams, Kevin Anderson, Joan Stewart (G), Bob Anderson, David Hopkinson (G), Hillary Robertson (FRCC) and also Bob Anderson (FRCC) - a tick from two clubs for the same meet.
Eric travelled by train and bus on Wednesday 5th August whilst most of the rest gathered at various times on Friday with further additions on Saturday.
Bob managed an ascent of Elidior Fawr on Friday afternoon before activities began in ernest on Saturday. Mark and Michelle went to Ogwen for Hope, Javelin buttress and central Arete, Tony Major and Dave Bone also at Ogwen for Rowen Tree Slabs etc. Meet leader had never heard of Rowan Tree Slabs at Idwal - not suprising at E25C. Ann and Dave Hopkinson went to Tremadog for the Plum, The Fang & One Step. Tony Gask and Lester also to Tremadog for Oberon & Christmas Currie. Kev and Joan also went to Idwal for an unnamed thin (5a/b) line up the slabs and then walked back to the hut over the Glydyrs, but that's another story. Bob and Dave Wylie did Parsons Nose Direct and Gambit on Crib y Dysgyl whilst brother Alan and Hilary went to Tryfan for Pinnacle Rib, Green Gully Buttress etc. Pete Walker fresh from 3 weeks in the Dolomites annexed various welsh summits. Ethel, Eric and Len were much more sensible and walked through the wood etc to Llanberis for a sandwich and a beer.
Sunday again dawned hot and sunny and parties left for Pennant, Llewedd, Ogwen, Carreg Alltrem etc. Tony and Dave sloped off to find more testing 'E' numbers. Ethel did some painting (watercolours) at the Hut, picture taken home by Tony G.
Great weather, great company, great meet. I had a super weekend. Thanks to all who turned up.
August 22nd - 23rd: Yorkshire Limestone: Neville McMillan
Members: Ruth Ashton, Sheena Hendrie, Alan (Liverpool) Jones, Rick Kruze, Iain & Pam McCallum, Neville McMillan, Peter Walker, Frank & Margaret Williams
Guest: Richard Walker (10 members and 1 guest)
Most of the KMC apparently took note of the weather forecasts and stayed away. But, Saturday remained dry, and the weather improved as the day went on. There was plenty of sun-kissed limestone, and it was warm (in the sunshine and out of the wind!). Of the six members present on Saturday morning, four went climbing and two went walking.
Frank and Margaret were the first away (as might be expected) to Dentdale, to walk the northern slopes of Whernside, an area of pot holes and springs, thence to inspect the architectural qualities of the Bleamoor Tunnel portals and the Artengill Viaduct, which carry the Settle to Carlisle railway line. During the return along Dentdale, Frank admits to having had "a fondle of the goats", and drinking the goats milk. (I wonder if he could get locked up for that?)
The meet leader failed to persuade Rick and Ruth to go to Attermire Scar; apparently the memories are still too painful. So they made their first visit to Pot Scar, knocking off all the starred VS's and HVS's, and declaring it "a good place". An excellent day's climbing.
Neville stuck to his intention of climbing at Attermire, much to Sheena's dismay. But he nearly got more than he bargained for with Moonshine, a Hard Severe which seemed a good 4c. The blustery wind made conditions less than ideal, so the number of routes ticked was not high.
During the day, Alan Liverpool had walked the ridge of Gragareth, and Iain and Pam, still recovering from injury, had done the Waterfalls walk from Ingleton.
All then assembled on the campsite for the crack. This soon developed into one of those deep philosophical discussions for which the KMC is well known (notorious). Under prolonged and piercing interrogation from the KMC's keenest legal brain, the Secretary was forced to admit that she did not follow in the true traditions of Scottish mountaineering, because she likes to be warm on the hill. Her precise words were, "I am a wimp! I don't like being cold." Such a terrible admission for a Scot, must permanently debar her from membership of the SMC, and cause traditionalists in the KMC to wonder what the Club is coming to. At the same time, it should also be pointed out that the KMC President had eschewed the "joys" of camping, and opted for B&B accommodation on the same site. Has the Club gone soft?
When Sunday dawned wet and watery, camping did seem less than idyllic. After several changes of plan, the majority opted for a shortish (?) walk to inspect the crag at Crummackdale, followed by a search in the mist for the trig point on Moughton Fell, and a more direct return to Austwick in continuous rain. Meanwhile, Rick and Ruth tried to avoid the rain by descending Gaping Gill. But, as they were being winched out, they got a good dowsing from the by-then significant drainage water pouring in!
Over all, top marks for dedication must go to Peter and Richard Walker, who got up before 6 am on Sunday to drive in pouring rain to the campsite, joined the walk over Moughton Fell, got soaked through, changed and dried off at the campsite, then missed the afternoon tea party in Settle, and drove back to Manchester in torrential rain. This makes those who stayed at home definitely wimps!
Over the weekend, walking, camping, climbing, and pot-holing all took place, not necessarily in a well co-ordinated manner. But all tastes were catered for, as promised. My thanks to all who supported the meet.
Aug Bank Holiday: Arran: Andrew Croughton
Members present: N.McMillan, S.Hendrie, J.Dobson, M.Harvie, M.Garrod, D.Dillon, A,Croughton. Guest I.Lee. (Brief encounters- May and Ben?)
After a minor set back with the quality and cleanliness of the accommodation , and the rather rash decision of two members of the party to catch the next ferry back to the main land , an enjoyable weekend was had by all . For probably the first time this summer the sun actually shone and continued to do so for an entire three days.
On the Saturday four groups set out in different directions , Neville, Sheena, Mark & Michelle heading off towards Glen Rosa before splitting up into two groups with Mark & Michelle heading off up Beinn Tarsuinn & along the ridges to A'Chir, where they again met up with Neville & Sheena who gained the same ridge via Beinn Chliabhain. Before continuing along the ridges to Goat Fell with Sheena whilst Neville had left the group to descend back down Glen Rosa via the newly laid track to retrieve his car and pick up the rest of the group , who had continued on over Goat Fell & down to the main road along the coast.
The day had been extremely warm and the midges rife, although only Michelle & Sheena seemed to be on the menu as far as the biting was concerned . Not to be out done in the bites & scratches war Neville decided to take a short cut down a crag , whilst soloing on one of the ridges, using his elbow & thigh as a breaking system , and providing an excellent photo opportunity back at the bunk house ( keep an eye out for this at the slide show).
Whilst this was taking place John & Ian had decided to head of in the same direction to climb on the slabs at Cir Mhor, but rather than travelling to Glen Rosa they set off in a more direct fashion from the bunk house itself, & after ascending the back of Goat Fell decided to bypass the slabs & carry all their climbing gear, unused , back to the bunk house & take refuge down in the pub at Corrie, & even though every night they returned to say how poor the quality of the Guiness had been ,this was where they were to spend most of weekend.
Myself & Dave had set off on two wheeled transport to circumnavigate the Northern half of the island taking in the sights & on several occasions stopping to photograph the same. This method of travel yielded two very pleasant side effects , the first being a midge free day , as they could not keep up with us on the bikes , & secondly several opportunities to stop for cake & ice creams....mmm yummy.
Sunday saw Neville & Sheena heading back to Glen Rosa , this time to climb on South slabs , first attempting Route One (D) before losing their way on the route & then finishing off by climbing a route called Trundle (S).
John & Ian left their climbing gear in the garage where they were staying & rode around the North circular of the island as Dave & I had done the day before whilst it was the turn of Dave & Myself to lug climbing gear up to the crag first by bike 5 miles down the road to Glen Rosa, then still by bike 2 miles along the dirt track down Glen Rosa itself, before leaving the bikes & continuing on foot to the summit of Cir Mhor. After deciding not to bother with the intended route on the crags , we then carried the climbing gear all the way back down the valley to retrieve the bikes & head into Brodick for fish & chips.
Mark & Michelle however had set out on what was to be a very long day , first riding into Sannox , then walking up Glen Sannox cutting off up to Caisteal Abhail to climb slapstick wall & the witches step , backing off routes & fighting off midges along the way, then to end the day after returning in darkness to Sannox, Michelle (the mermaid ) Harvie decided to go for a dip in the Firth of Clyde, whilst back at the bunk house decisions were being made whether or not to , settle down & have another dram or, check the pub for the missing couple who had not been seen since morning. (Luckily they arrived back just before we had gone down the steep track to the pub.)
Monday dawned clear & sunny again but plans for the day were less demanding preferring a leisurely ride to the ferry terminal to drop off luggage before going on sight seeing tours of the island whilst waiting for the ferry to arrive although Michelle could not resist going for one final swim before leaving the island.
Thanks to every one for making the weekend very enjoyable & perhaps if we can book similar weather again a return meet may be in order.
September 1998 Newsletter Index.
Copyright © 1998 Karabiner Mountaineering Club
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