Karabiner Mountaineering Club

June 1999 Forthcoming Meets

All note the following small print when taking part in meets :-

May 23^rd Yorkshire Grit Rick Kruze

It's difficult writing about a forthcoming meet in May on a cold, wet and windy February afternoon but here goes....

In my continued attempts to educate these red rose types to the superiority of white rose rock I will be leading a meet to Crookrise this year. This crag sits high on the moor overlooking Skipton and the Vale of Craven. It's a bit of a walk-in by the standards of Peak Gritstone so it might even appeal to the "mountain types". Those of you put off but the prospect of having to walk to a crag, it is only 15 minute walk if you run.

Crookrise has some brilliant climbs; Slingsby's Chimney at HVD (**) is a traditional classic. It's right next door to Hovis (E1 ***) a Joe Brown testpiece where you can just about keep falling off the crux and landing safely. The slab routes are excellent: Arsenic Slab (S), Old Lace (VS), Walkover (E3) and if your feeling luck punk, there's Slip 'n' Slide (E6) - remember it's only 6a! The crack climbs are also great. Ian Bennett will delight you with his tale of The Sole; a must-do climb if a little tough at the start for HVS.

Parking is in the Sailing Club car park at the reservoir. Take a left turn along Pasture Road at the Elm Tree Inn in Embsay (2 miles north of Skipton). See me for more detailed directions if you need them.

So put on your boots, shoulder your rucksack and sing the Manchester Rambler on the approach (but not too loudly as it could upset the natives).

May 29^th-31^st BH Islay & Jura Tony Gask

A few facts/ideas by way of an advance notice, so that I can get feed back, particularly as there may be a need to book accommodation, etc.

JURA has the best hills, not that high, but rugged. Little accommodation. 5 minutes ferry from Islay.

lSLAY. Interests include tough low-level walking, dramatic coastline, antiquities, whisky, a little sea cliff climbing (anyone got a guidebook?) bike hire. Possible accommodation: private hostel/camping at Kintra 3 miles from Port Ellen where ferry goes to, in south west corner of island. Also youth hostel.

Transport: 2-2½ hours DRIVE from Glasgow to Kennacraig (Kintyre). About 2 hour ferry crossing. From the l998 brochure ferry times are 0715 (P. Ellen) and to Port Askaig in the east: 1250, l800. Cost: £35 for car, £6.65 per person.

Idea: camp/doss on Thursday night, get first ferry Friday morning (28th May) piling luggage into one car (per five people) to Port Ellen (only 10 minutes to Kintra) Return on the Tuesday maybe. Again from 1998 book: return times are 0955 (from P. Ellen) or from P. Askaig: 1530, 2015. NB P. Ellen to P. Askaig is about 20 minutes. Straight road.

Do tell me what you think. Tony Gask.

June 6^th Millstone Mark Garrod

A classic gritstone venue with grades to suit most abilities. Routes include, Great Slab (S), The Mall (VS), Great North Road (HVS) and many more. This is an excellent place to hone your jamming skills and, if you are so inclined, to practice your aid climbing. Millstone is all of three minutes walk from Surprise View car park near Hathersage. Weather should be perfect i.e. not too hot for Goose's sweaty palms. Meet in Surprise View car park (£1 for 4 hours and £2 for the day) 10.30 or at the crag.

June 13^th Derbyshire Limestone Dave Dillon

Beeston Tor is a suntrap with a delightful aspect. It has grades from around HS upwards, though there are some VDs lurking around. Get there before the droves. GR SK107541 in the Manifold valley. From Manchester ? through Buxton and down the A515, beyond B5054 head for Wetton then Grindon but stop at the bottom in the valley. Either park there or turn left and park nearer the crag. See you there.

June 19^th-20^th Ty Powdyr Joanne Goodwin

What can I say about this wonderful area that hasn't been said before... correct, absolutely nothing! All are welcome to indulge in walking, climbing, mountain biking, horse riding, swimming, fishing, knitting....whatever takes your fancy! I will be in the pub the Thursday before to finalise travel arrangements etc.

June 26^th-27^th Northumberland Coast Camping Michelle Harvie

I apologise that my ineptitude with E-mail prevented this reaching the April newsletter (what's wrong with a baked bean can and a piece of string?).

I plan to camp near the coast (I can give you details nearer the time) within striking distance of the Northumberland sandstone crags, Bowden doors and Cyloe. These allegedly have all grades of climbs from diff to the ridiculous (a.k.a the ridiculous to E6). I have also organised canoing trips to the Farne islands on both Saturday and Sunday, there are currently only 3 spaces left on the Sunday. For those who are not already booked, the days paddling costs £24 which covers an instructor, and hire of all equipment. The trip would be suitable for fit paddlers who can canoe in a straight line for several hours! For more details see me in the pub on Thursdays.

July 4^th Whitbarrow Climbing/Walking Peter Walker

Maps: Pathfinder 627 Milnthorpe or SD 48/58. The SE Lakes sheet is also useful.

Whitbarrow is just off the A590 Barrow road, a wooded limestone ridge running North/South overlooking the Kent Estuary.

Meet on the old road, now by-passed by the A590 at grid ref. 454 843, near the Mill Side, Beck Head turn off. The sugested walk is at least 15 miles. Start time is 9:30am.

The proposed route is a figure of eight with Lords Seat the highest point of the fell at the centre; with many variations possible. Set out by Millside, Beck Head, Chapel Head Scar to Lord's Seat, continuing northwards to the Punch Bowl Inn at Crosthwaite, via the hamlet of Row. Return via Fell Side, Fell Edge, Whitbarrow Scar up to Lord's Seat again. Down to Witherslack Hall, Whitherslack and the Derby Arm's. The cars are a mile up the road.

Climbing: Chapel Head Scar rises straight up from our walking path out of Beck Head - bristling with pegs and bolts! Climbing on White Scar above the old road is more difficult of access - Duncan suggests abseiling in.

Hopefully we will all meet up at the Derby Arm's.

PS extra information on the three crags in the area, from Tony Gask:

• Chapel Head Scar - easy access as described in the walk. The average grade appears to be E3.

• Whitstone Crage - a small but pleasant limestone crag with routes from D to HVS. GR 397 849 is 1 ½ miles from Newby Bridge, above the A59, 10 minutes walk from the road. Handy for the pub in Whitherslack at the end of the day.

• White Scar - not recommended, access is so difficult with scree, boulders etc at top and bottom. Described as ‘Utopia for the masochist'.

Thanks, Tony.

July 10^th-11^th Langdale Camping & Gimmer Sheena Hendrie

In the optimistic hope that we will get both nice weather and a "quiet" weekend before the school holiday rush the plan is to camp at the National Trust campsite opposite the ODG. The meets list says "Gimmer" because I have never climbed there, so the hit list includes a number of classics - Bracket and Slab (Severe ***) and The Crack (VS ***) amongst them. For those looking for something harder more *** routes include Kipling Groove HVS and Equus E2.

Other options include Pavey Ark, while at a lower level there is White Ghyll (with its various "Nots" including Laugh Not HVS *** and The Gordian Knot VS **) or Raven Crag - fewer starred routes but very convenient for the ODG!

With a large choice of routes across the crags there are harder and softer alternatives to suit all standards and walking alternatives for those not inclined to climb. Hopefully there will also be some sun bathing alternatives! See you there.

July 18^th Roaches Mary Stuart

Meet under ‘The Sloth', Upper Tier at 11:00am where the entertainment begins with Mary launching herself out across the roof.

July 24^th-25^th Ty Powdyr Bob Anderson & Iain McCallum

Saturday - Walk" The Glyders"

A classic ridge walk starting at Capel Curig and finishing at Ty Powdwr. Distance about 12 miles. Route:

• Capel Curig - Cefn y Capel - Glyder Fach - Glyder Fawr - Y Garn - Foel Goch -Myndd Perfedd - Elidir Fawr - Ty Powdwr.

Meet at 9.45am. for a 10am. start in the car park at Capel Curig.(behind Joe Brown's Shop GR721 582 - near the junction of A5 and A4086). Some help with transport to and from Capel Curig will be needed.

Evening - Birthday celebration with beer and wine. A hotpot supper will be provided. An alternative meal for "Veggies" will be available. In view of the catering arrangements it would be helpful if you could let us know beforehand whether you intend coming on this meet and whether you will require a "Hotpot supper" or a "Veggie supper".

Sunday - Climbing and walking.

Best maps OS Outdoor Leisure 16 & 17.

August 1^st Kinder Climbing and Walk-in(g) Vinny Goodwin

Meet at the Bowden Bridge car park (GR 049 869) near Heyfield at 9:30am for a guided walk to the Downfall ravine. Climbing for those making their own way will be in the Downfall area.

August 28^th-29^th BH Arran, prob hut/bunkhouse Keith Williams

Recent reports from last year's Arran meet have focussed on the state of the bunkhouse at Corrie which was used as the venue. These suggested that it was less than salubrious, if not downright scummy. Notwithstanding that, I tentatively made enquiries of the owners - posing as a member of the Rucksack Club - and was assured that it was in splendid condition. Such rumours were obviously being spread by that other bunch of thieving climbers from Manchester who didn't even pay for the privilege of using this excellently appointed hostelry. I agreed heartily with the lady from Arran Estates noting that they wouldn't get much of a welcome.

So there it is, the choice is - camping:-

• On a blasted heath ("award pending", presumably for the toilet block/cold water facilities) at Glen Rosa - £4 per tent pn.
• Behind the beach at Lochranza - more facilities, caravans, etc. so £8 per tent pn but special rates for groups possible.
• In the wild up the side of the burn at North Glen Sannox used to be a good place for free but have no recent info on this.
• Hotels, guest houses, etc.: contact me for further details.

I suggest that the Glen Rosa campsite should be the base since it represents the best compromise re price/facilities, is handy for at least some of the hills and is only 2 miles from the ferry for foot passengers.

The hills need no sales pitch. This is simply a magnificent pocket of the Highlands offering outings for all except of the overhanging limestone variety - there's even a nudist beach if that's what you need.

The main ferry is operated by Cal Mac between Ardrossan and Brodick, takes an hour and departs. Ardrossan at 9.45, 1230, 1515, 1800 every day with some variations. Single journeys for cars up to 4m - £23-15; up to 4.5m - £33-00 etc. + £4-10 for driver/passengers. A cheaper 5 day return is possible. Full details from CalMac on 01475 650100 or www.calmac.co.uk

Copyright © 1999 Karabiner Mountaineering Club