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December 1999 Meet Reports
May 23rd - Yorkshire Grit, Crookrise (well almost) - Rick Kruze
Members: David Wylie, Rob Allen, Chris Williamson, Dennis Gray, Ruth Ashton, Rick Kruze
Guests: Mike Howlett, Vicki.
Well it was nearly a perfect day apart from the high winds, low cloud, drizzle and cool temperatures! Philosophical questions: Is a crag still there if it's hidden in the mist? We didn't go to find out. Instead the intrepid (foolhardy?) people who travelled all that way turned around and headed to the warmth and dryness of Leeds Climbing Wall.
Spots of blue sky were noted on the way to Leeds but this was at the same time as spots of rain were falling onto windscreens so we weren't tempted by the passing of Ilkly and Otley. Instead monies were extracted and colourful routes were climbed.
Notable incidents included Rob Allen (back after his GBH on a poor Fiat car) leading the black route, Ruth on-sight flashing the new blue 6b+ and Chris Williamson's downright shoddy Ron Hill Tracksters - come on, this is the end of the 90's. Chris to see Paul Harding for dressing tips.
Just as we were going, Dennis Gray came to the Wall (hence his meet tick) and told us it has been quite nice at Shipley Glen, in fact getting too hot towards the end (#$%&*!).
Ah well, better luck next time. Ta for turning up.
Editors note: Elaine Beaulieu, Kevin Anderson and myself turned up at the meet around 12:30. It was miserable and there where no familiar cars around to indicate that any one was up at the crag. Before heading for Leeds (as was the backup plan) we visited a tea shop in Skipton, very nice. We never made it to Leeds as I spotted a small break in the clouds with a bit of blue showing through. After a circuitous journey we ended up at Almscliff and had an excellent afternoons climbing.
May 29th-31st - BH Islay & Jura - Tony Gask
'A tale of bicycling, walking and boating on unvisited Scottish islands.'
Tony (yellow jersey) Gask, Mark (on your bike) Harrod, Michelle (keep on pedalling) Harvie, Andy (mainly on his bike) Croughton, Lester (left his bike at home) Payne, John (no bikes at the Stretford end) Thorley, Not to mention Capt. John (Onedin) Dobson and Sue (shiver m' timbers) Brooke.
Friday
My dramatic early morning entry from the chest high wet bracken, my soggy tent draped about my shoulders, was lost on Mark, Michelle & Andy, not surprisingly so as they had spent just a few hours sleeping, in a metal box, next to the ferry terminal, at Kennacraig on the Kintyre peninsular. They had arrived late Thursday night, to find these curious metal bins just right for a kip, only to be rudely awaked at 5 am and informed they were intended for Islay's daily supply of bread! (This incidentally set the tone for the weekend, with many half-baked puns rising from it) I had arrived on Thursday afternoon, and did a bike ride before getting chips in Tarbet, then camping on a scrappy bit of ground near the ferry; heavy rain and the spot lights meant I too had a poor nights sleep. All the gear, except the bikes, were loaded up in my car, piles and piles of it, including assorted plastic boxes. I am told that climbing gear was somewhere.
By 8 am the land was left far behind, as the ship headed across misty seas, and the canteen was in full swing selling delicious bacon butties, and mugs of steaming coffee. 2 hours crossing, no views, no wrecks, nobody drowned. Landed in Port Ellen, Islay, and by 10 o'clock arrived at our bunk house at Kintra Farm, to unload our stuff, ruck sacks, boxes etc and wonder what to do on a rather dull/ misty day. A bike ride! You can't go far on Islay without passing a distillery, and we felt it our duty to support the local economy on the way back from a rather midgey Lochside picnic; dozens of large seals basking on the rocks made up for any discomfort however. Our cycle ride returning to Kintra was a bit wobbly, after the inevitable wee dram or two at the end of the distillery tour. Unfortunately I had to be restrained, so that I could drive up to the other end of the island to pick up Lester and John off the evening ferry. There is a six mile straight on the main road but it is so bumpy no one goes at more than 50 mph, however we soon back at Kintra, unloading all their things, including even more boxes. All these boxes caused a diplomatic incident, since there is a bye law, dating back to Viking times, which prohibits plastic and cardboard boxes being placed on window sills. Otherwise the bunkhouse owners were very pleasant. Adjoining is an easy campsite, next to the beach, a bit like Glen Brittle.
Saturday
Windy but dry, so a long walk was taken out to the south western tip, Oa, much of it unpathed, with superb views and dramatic cliffs and sea stacks, with numerous sea birds. There is meant to be some climbing here but it was not exactly obvious where. Prominent and thought provoking is the large American monument, commemorating 1918 ship wrecks.
Sunday
To Jura, with no less than seven of us in my car, which we took over to the island on the little ferry from Port Askaig. Unfortunately due to the ferry times we only had time to do one of the baps (sorry Paps) After the inevitable bogs, the ground was not that rough, despite what the book says, but parts of the island are obviously remote and rugged. It is normally very quiet but this was the fell race weekend, so it was fairly busy. The near and distant views from the top of Beinn on Oir were brilliant, tiny boats in the sea lochs on either side adding to the grandeur of the setting. On return to our car we found a note attached to the windscreen: No parking, by order of The Laird, I thought would be message, but no, it was John Dobsons visiting card! Not being namby pamby like ourselves, courtesy of Caledonian Mac Brayne, he and Sue had sailed over in their 16 foot Wayfarer dinghy in rough conditions, then camped on the beach Incidentally the fell race was the reason why I could not get accommodation that weekend on Jura. I'd like to return to Jura. There was a superb sunset that evening, at Kintra, and about 10.45pm we went down to the beach and ran along in bare feet. Great.
Monday
The day we had to leave, and of course it was the best weather, but we had time to do a bike ride in the north of Islay (John and Lester stayed on for an extra day) before catching the afternoon ferry from Port Askaig. It was a great boat ride back, looking at the hills of Jura from the sea certainly was most satisfactory. Its a long way round from the ferry terminal before you get to Glasgow and the M74, so I had thought to break the journey and do the Cobbler, but the timing was all wrong, and the once pleasant camp side at Loch Long had been taken over by caravans, so I kept on driving. Meanwhile our intrepid mariners, John & Sue had a long, slow but tranquil sail back in their dinghy, accompanied by dolphins at times.
By way of a summary a few sound bites: mist, bikes, whisky, plastic boxes, sea cliffs, sea birds, seals, bumpy roads, more whisky, boats and things. Any climbing I hear you ask: don't be daft. The End.
September 19th - Laddow Rocks - Ken Beetham
Present: Dave Bone, Sue Brooke, Heather Brooke, Lorna Marsland, Andrew Croughton, Margaret and Frank Williams, Lester Payne, Dave Dillon, Dave Whittingham, Linda Crossley, Phil Ramsbottom, Chris Thickett, Al Metelko, Alan Peck, Chris Williamson, Vinnie and Joanne Goodwin, Pete Walker, Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie, Jim and Judith Symon, Colin Maddison, Virginia Castick a total of 25 and Roisin.
plus Guests: Matt Taylor, Rod Evans, Joanne Castick and Linda Ramsbottom.
This was the most wretched few hours I for one have spent up at the cave tea room. The wind blew into and across the wet crag and as a climbing occasion the day was a write off... except that one route was done, as it by tradition, Waterfall of that name by Chris and Al. Some ex Greenfield intendees fought the gale to half way then turned around and ran back. My heart went out to the sponsored walkers flogging up the valley track in aid of a Childrens Heart Foundation Charity, the lower ones had little knowledge of the wind strength up top. however, the chat was good and it was great to see that people actually believed that it would clear up. Once again thanks to all, and gratitude to the sherpas for their help. A merry Xmas to all and a happy millenium transfer all round
September 25th-26th - Working Party Meet - Dave Wylie
Members: Andrew Croughton, Dave Dillon, Christine Beeston, Mark Garrod, Frank Williams, Margaret Williams, Lester Payne, Jim Gregson, Sandy Gregson, Iain McCallum, Steve Taylor, Alan Wylie, Dave Wylie.
Guests: Liz Taylor, William Taylor, Emma Richards, Katie Winstanley.
What Got Done
There were three main tasks this weekend. The first, and possibly most obvious to frequent visitors to Ty Powdwr, was the hacking back of the encroaching shrubbery along the sides of the track. Andrew, Christine, Dave D. and Mark (the Saturday Gang), Jim, Sandy and Lester (The Sunday Gang) did the deed, with some of the varied lethal weapons brought for the purpose. The track actually seems to be significantly wider now that all the gorse has been removed.
The second job was to make a start on the refurbishment of the downstairs dormitories. There's not a lot to show for this so far, as all the work we did was under the floors. You may, however, notice a small mountain of spoil just over the wall in the field - this is the crud we removed from under the dormitories prior to laying down a vapour barrier. Clearing out all this rubbish took most of Saturday, and was done by Steve and Dave W., variously assisted by Alan, Mark and child labour in the form of Emma and Katie (both 11 years old, therefore small and best able to get underneath the floors). The next step is to insulate under the floorboards, and somehow get better ventilation in the void down there. After that we'll get on to improving things above ground.
The third job was getting on with the decorating of the Ladies washroom and the hall. Alan, being tall, did most of the high level work (skimming, sanding and painting the ceilings) and we resorted to child labour again for the rest of the painting in the Ladies. There's still another coat to go on in there. If anybody doesn't like the proposed colour scheme, which was democratically chosen by all the females present, then they should come down to a working party and pick a different one!
Various other things also got done: Frank put the "historic" ice-axe and rope that were donated to the club up on display in the lounge. He also put up a magnet in the kitchen above the can-recycling bin, so that you can check that your cans aren't steel before you put them in. Andrew finished off the new footpath sign that should keep walkers from straying into the hut compound when they should be heading down into the country park. Sandy put up towel hooks in the Ladies. In the Gents, Jim and Lester moved round the shelving and towel hooks. Miscellaneous parts of the hut were cleaned thanks to Margaret, Iain, Mark and others. Iain (aided and abetted by Liz and Margaret) did the catering, providing the lunchtime soup which has become the very welcome norm for working parties over the last few years.
Many thanks to everybody who came along and worked so hard. Special mention and three gold stars each to Emma and Katie who, despite their lack of years, worked at least as hard as the rest of us. Everyone seemed to enjoy themselves as well (including William, aged 22 months, though his contribution was limited to painting about three square inches of wall in the hall before someone caught him at it!). If you've not been on a working party, come along next time and find out what you've been missing!
October 3rd - Yorkshire Dales Walk - Iain McCallum
Members present: Margaret Baldock, Linda Crossley, Jim Gregson, Sandy Gregson, Graham Harkness, Sheena Hendrie, Alan (L) Jones, lain McCallum, Neville McMillan, Lorna Marsland, Lester Payne, Brian Taylor, Jim Taylor, Peter Walker, Frank Williams, Margaret Williams, Keith Williams, Dave Wylie. (18)
Guests present: Richard Walker.
6am. awakened by the sound of rain hammering on the roof - a portent for the day? Arrived at Malham Tarn shortly after 9am to be greeted by low cloud and flooded car park. Graham, Neville and Sheena had already arrived, Graham having spent the night in his vehicle at Malham. By the time we set off at 9.45am, the cloud had started to lift. After a quick swing round the tarn we soon reached Malham Tarn House, once a shooting lodge and now field study centre. Following the Pennine Way we climbed steadily up hill passing Tennant Gill before stopping below Fountains Fell for a quick bite and a drink. The day continued to improve and by the time we reached the summit of Fountains Fell (668m) all the tops were clear. In the distance, the Howgills could be seen bathed in sunshine. The summit plateau of the Fell, which takes its name from Fountains Abbey, is badly scarred by the remains of old bell pits from which coal was extracted in the 18th and 19th centuries. From the summit we followed the ridge in a NW direction crossing a number of peat hags before gaining the top of Darnbrook Fell (624m). A rapid descent following a quad track soon brought the party onto a fine green road which traversed the hillside above Pen-y-Ghent Gill. Close to Litton Frank found us a good spot for lunch alongside the river. A rather soporific spot - warmed by the sun with the sound of the river tumbling over the rocky shelves along its bed.
After lunch we followed the river to Arncliffe. A very wet way. Many of the fields were flooded and one of the lanes which had turned into a stream had be waded as we approached Arncliffe. The short stop for drinks at the old village Inn proved most welcome. Following the Monk's Road we slowly climbed out of Littondale up the fell side, crossing the limestone pavement at Dew Bottoms and thence by way of Middle House farm, Great Close and so back to Malham Tarn. (Distance 15 miles - Neville and Peter claim it was 17.5 miles!)
By the time we reached Malham all the tea shops had closed but a pub. was found where we could quench our thirst with tea and coffee. A most enjoyable day. Good to see Jim Taylor back on the hills. Many thanks for your support.
October 16th-17th - "Ice" Climbing at Dover - Al Metelko
Present: Rick Davies, Elaine Beaulieu, Dave Lygate, Al Metelko.
Only one member committed himself to the trip and those who said maybe, there weren't many, said no in the end. A big turnout was not expected, but I did get some strange looks when asked if they would like to come on the meet, some seemed to take offence. Answers ranged from 'no' to 'NO' to 'p**s off'. No one really had anything positive to say about the meet and I was disappointed.
We headed south around 8pm Friday, from my final pickup in Stockport and even after a few stops, one for supper, we where setting up camp on top of the White Cliffs of Dover at around half past midnight near the town of St Margaret's at Cliffe
I awoke to the sound of cars arriving at the car park and owners taking dogs for a walk. The weather was good as it nearly always is in the south, blue skies but with a cool easterly but even so it was quite warm whilst climbing.
We left the car park around 11am after breaking camp, breakfasting, sorting gear and letting the coastguard know what we where up to. Elaine's enthusiasm saw her doing the first route of the weekend I told her not to do the overhang (she failed on it last year and I didn't want her demoralised this early in the weekend). She came up a corner system to the left she said it was harder then she remembered it. I went down next to do the same route, nothing seemed have changed from last year. The corner is slightly past vertical.(grade 5) and I also found it hard, but I was real happy when memories of how to use axe and crampon and body position came rushing back and I thoroughly enjoyed the climb. Dave and Rick where next to climb, I abseiled down to the beach and had a look at The Great Escape 120 feet grade III which climbs a steep slab diagonally rightwards on the best plastic chalk. From the beach the route is visible as a line of small holes but you have to know where the route is to see them. This was the route I chose for Rick and Dave's first chalk climb.
Dave, has climbed many Munro's winter and summer and has only recently started rock climbing. He was lowered off next but couldn't stay to the left and so was lowered down to the beach, this was going to be his first serious experience of front pointing with a rather tricky start to get off the beach. I was glad I was there to show him the moves to get him off the ground. With axes flailing everywhere he headed straight up, away from the route. When he was 10 feet to his right I shouted MOVE RIGHT. His right hand axe was put in a couple of inches to the right then his left a little to the right and then went straight on up at high speed moving further from the route while I was still shouting up to him to move off to the right. Unfortunately the chalk here is superb, it's difficult to make a bad placement but luckily he made four and he came off and took a small swingette rightwards and downwards and he was back on route. So the climb continued, he climbing upwards me shouting up that he ought to move rightwards (I'll have to bring him to Hobby Moor) and little swingettes to put him back on route. After completing two thirds of the route he started to tire, I told him to stop and have a rest and I was able to point out to him a large ledge that he should be heading for, and yes it was off to his right. He made it to the ledge in control and finished the climb easily.
Rick was next, he has been rock climbing for years and he has done some winter routes with Dave Bone. He made it down to the starting ledge easily. He also started straight up but once I had pointed out that route went off to right I didn't need to say a thing and his technique was excellent.
It was time for me to get off the beach as the tide was coming in. I felt quit alone down here wondering if a rope was going to be thrown down. I also wondered if I could get out of this situation without getting wet so I started up The Great Escape. I got to an insitu metal rod, I could see the next one some 15 feet above and to the right and in order to get to it I had to climb over a bulge, nothing like a slab. I was starting to down-climb when the ropes came down. I tied on and climbed a vertical wall to well over to the right. Later I was told off for trying to solo the route.
Elaine went down next, I didn't say anything but I knew she was going for that overhang. The big smile on her face as she topped out said it all. I did an overhang a little further to the right which Elaine also did later. Dave repeated his route came off only once and said he was in far more control and that his brand new Charlet Mosser axes where better then mine. Rick did the wall to the right and said it was pumpy. The days climbing ended with a marvellous sunset and got surprisingly chilly quite quickly.
I must mention that durring the afternoon we had a close display of a yellow Sea King helicopter as it made two very close passes to where we where climbing, in fact you could almost make out the colour of the crews eyes. They couldn't be looking for us could they! we had informed the coast guard that morning that we would be climbing till dark. When I informed them that the days climbing had ended there was no mention of the helicopter.
That evening we visited most of the pubs in St Margaret on the pretence of finding a suitable eating establishment (I recommend the Spitfire if you're ever down there). So after a good meal, a month's worth of beer and good company it was back to the cliff tops for a spot of wild camping.
Sunday saw a leisurely start to the day, and we decided to try the cliffs to the west of St Margaret's. we informed the coast guard of our intentions and headed for the front. As the tide was out we took the opportunity to walk underneath the cliffs, this was Rick's and Dave's first view of them from below. They are an absolutely spectacular sight. Rick commented 'if only they where limestone!'. After having a good look around we built marker on the beach so that we could locate the area of cliff that interested us from the top.
I was the first to be lowered off, the chalk here was completely different from yesterday, it was hard. I got a little anxious as the front points of my crampons where not penetrating much just scratching the surface really. I stopped at around 50 feet from the top. Steepness was about grade 4 but the climbing was like climbing thin ice, small gentle taps to make a hole gave the best results yet hitting this stuff hard had the axes bouncing off. I made slow upward progress and after about 20 feet I noticed some old axe holes and these I used for the rest of the climb. The top was amazingly steep and loose I didn't trust any of the points and the wind was blowing chalk up my nose and into my eyes, I topped out blind. It reminded me of a route I did in the Cairngorms before I wore contacts, I popped my head above a cornice to be blasted by a hellish wind and within milliseconds the space between glasses and eyes was filled with snow.
Elaine went next and started the climb much further down. Rick and Dave had a go and thought it was tough going, Dave did a good demolition job of the top section with chalk flying up rather then down (the wind was coming off the sea). I went down a second time as I hadn't gone down very far on my first go. After topping out interest in climbing fell and the cold easterly had us remove the belays and head for the car.
We probably had a couple of hours daylight left and I was thinking about maybe bouldering on the beach but on getting back to the car one of the side windows was smashed in, the only item not recovered was Elaine's bag containing money credit cards and keys. Climbing! HA! went out of the window and we where 300 miles from home. Surprisingly the drive home wasn't that bad, with the heating on full in the front, sleeping bags in the back plus Elaine's loud music made for quite a comfortable journey home. Thank god it didn't rain.
For a couple of days after the trip both Dave and myself suffered from red eye. Next time I'll bring goggles.
October 31st - Bowland Walk & Grand Nosh-Up - Pat Holt & Derek Seddon
Leader: Derek Seddon, Catering by Pat Holt
Members Present: Alan Barber, Ken Beetham, Sue Brook, John Dobson, Jim & Sandy Gregson, Sheena Hendrie, A Hyde Jones, A L'pool Jones, Neville McMillan, Lester Payne, Alan Peck, Phil Ramsbottom, Dave Shotton, Dave Sumerfield, Jim Taylor, Chris Thickett, John Thorley, Pete Walker, Keith Williams, Dave Wylie and most important of all: Pat Holt.
Guests: Janice Barber, Roy & Jane Blackburn, Peter Blythin, Brian & Joyce Cosby, Patrick & Marion Dellow, Richard Holt, Chris Jones, Tony Taylor, Bob & Elsie Upton, Teddy Wood.
So, it seems everyone spotted the deliberate mistakes in the hand-out and nobody arrived either a day early or two hours late. Some congestion at The Hey was soon sorted out and greetings exchanged with faces from way back in the Jurassic age of the KMC before the congregation set off down the track in convivial mood. A truly sociable meet. Within minutes the mob had split into various parties, some taking the high route over Whitendale and Dunsop Head, some the lowland through the deer parks and hamlets and some through whatever middleground suited their purpose. Those with previous experience of Pat's cooking made a point of being back early, but the others weren't far behind. That spread was something to behold and remember, with the particular pleasure of sharing it with old friends from the distant past and a good turnout of present members. This was only the latest of many such parties thrown by Pat (assisted by Richard) for the Club down the years and to mark her 51st year of membership she was presented with a framed Heaton Cooper picture of Scafell from the Committee. Altogether, a very good day and a splendid official end to summer.
December 1999 Newsletter Index.
Copyright © 1999 Karabiner Mountaineering Club
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