Karabiner Mountaineering Club

April 2000 Forthcoming Meets

All note the following small print when taking part in meets :-

March 26^th President’s HotPot - The President, Duncan Lee

The hotpot and slide competition is to be held at The Royal Hotel, Market Street, Hayfield. The bar is open all day with the meal being served at 7.30 pm. The cost for hotpot and apple pie is £7.50p per head. I need to know numbers at least a week beforehand, so book now to avoid the rush. Please let me know if you want the vegetarian option.

The annual slide competition will follow the meal so take advantage of the long winters nights to review your last 12 months of photographic endeavours. The categories are:

• Mountain Landscape,
• Rock Climbing Action,
• Human Interest and
• Mountain Action.

The slides should have been taken in the last 12 months with a maximum of three slides per person in each category. Please mark all your slides (name and category) to make it easier for the judge and to guarantee ease of return. Please submit slides to me as early as possible. The absolute latest is Thursday March 23rd at the Joe Simpson lecture. Anyone who wishes to show any other slides should bring them along on the night for a viewing after the competition.

Bookings for the hotpot to me either at the pub, on a meet, or by phone.

March 26^th - Pre Hot Pot Climb and Walk - Duncan and Derek

To work up an appetite for the above mentioned evening try out one of the options available for the daytime’s entertainment.

Stanage, Duncan Lee.

Option one is a chance to shake a winters worth of dust off the climbing gear and to venture out into the spring sunshine (fingers crossed) at the Wall End area of the crag. Park at The Plantation and meet up at the crag , from 10am., to sample some of the delights of grit on such classics as Fern Crack (VS 4c**), Fern Groove (E2 5c **), Wall End Slab (VS 5a **), Archangel (E3 5b***) and Goliath’s Groove (HVS 5a ***). The area offers great routes from diff upwards along with some superb bouldering if belaying gets a bit chilly late in the day.

See me at the pub on Thursdays for further information and help in arranging lifts out.

Alternative Attraction: Grindleford to Stanage, Derek Seddon

Summer Time begins on the morning of my walk, but as I previously made a cock-up of the clock change, I am not going to tell you which way to change them. Sufficient to say meet me at 9.15am by whatever system you’re using, for a 9.30 start from Grindleford Station approach. GR788250. To get there, go through Stoney Mid and take the B6001 left out of Calver Sough or go via Hathersage on the A625 and take the B6521 on the right past Fox House Inn.

Maps: there’s a bit at the start on Outdoor Leisure 24, 1:25000 but most is on Outdoor Leisure 1.

Route: Station, Padley Mill, through Padley Wood, across A625 to path below Burbage Edge; Upper Burbage Bridge to quarries and Brown Edge Farm. Fulwood Lane to water works at Redmires. Round reservoir to (deeply rutted) packhorse route to Stanage Pole then down to Plantation to join the climbers for lunch. Thus replete, off down the path to North Lees Hall, Bronte Cottage and Brookfield Manor to Hathersage. Crocodile down the village street to the junction. Cross over to take path by the stream under railway arch. Then path by the stream and across fields to Leadmill Bridge. Cross B6001 and follow stream through woods to a steep path on left to cross railway by a footbridge. Past Padley Chapel and back to Grindleford station. 12 miles of varied, interesting country. Hope you can join me.

April 2^nd - Rossendale "Round the Hills" Walk: Rawtenstall - Pete Walker

Maps: Landranger 103 Blackburn & Burnley, also latest edition of South Pennine Sheet Outdoor Leisure 21.

Park: Marlpits Recreation Ground, Newchurch Road, Rawtenstall. GR 820 230.

Start: 9 o’clock.

Distance: 18 miles.

The ROUTE takes in Cribden hill, Hamelden Hill, Clowbridge Reservoir, Water, Dean, Edgeside, Cowpe Lowe, Cloughfold. Possible pub stop at the commercial Inn at Water (Hancock’s bitter).

This walk roughly follows the route of the Rossendale Fell race and is now an “official” route i.e. waymarked; with certificates from the Mayor of Rawtenstall if you happen to complete the round on the right day (September; the first Sunday). It was a favourate of Milly and Bowden Black’s which is enough recommendation in itself.

Eighteen miles of paths and tracks with enough bog to satisfy you for a whole year.

April 9^th - Stoney Middleton - Chris Williamson

Philosophical question: Some reputations are unjustly deserved? A meet at Stoney Middleton? You can’t be serious? Haven’t you heard... Experience is sometimes about reflecting on the past. But, some experiences dim with time, though a reputation sticks. So, too, with the venue for this meet. The previously polished nature of the routes has dimmed over years of neglect. Maybe we should welcome the advent of acid rain as a way of revitalising once popular crags? Maybe some other natural force has been at work? Either way, I was impressed by the quality of the climbing when Duncan took me there last year. And to think I’d never been, all because of a years old reputation. Yes, caution is sometimes required when choosing your line, but there’s still plenty to go at. Loads of well starred routes and no crowds or queues. Try the excellent Padme HVS 5a **, Frisco Bay VS 4c**, Aurora VS 4c *** …

Park at the layby on the south side of the A623 (RHS approaching from Manchester) at the west end of Stoney Middleton village. Access is by the track on the uphill side of the garage / petrol station. See you on the Crag, 10:30 on, for a top day on Limestone - The odd Severe, with VS though to any E you’re capable of getting up. Note - Change of date from the published meets calendar due to rescheduling of the Fell Race.

April 15^th - 16^th - Annual Fell Race (under new management), Lakes Hut - Alan (L) Jones

Please note later date than shown on the provisional meets list in the December Newsletter.

The Fell Race this year returns to the Lake District, which is the natural home for this sort of event. There will be new attractions to make the event an occasion not to be missed. The well-appointed Lancashire Climbing & Caving Club Hut at Tranearth, Torver, near Coniston (GR 281 957) has been booked as the venue. This offers excellent access to Dow Crag for climbers on the Saturday, if they are so confident that they do not need to prospect out the route for the race, which will be held on the Sunday. The hut fees are £4 per person per bed-night. Please book as soon as possible by sending a cheque to me made payable to KMC. Places are limited, but you can always turn up for the day if all else fails. (There may be a day fee, I need to check on this). Access to Tranearth is via the A593, turning off at GR 285 945. Follow the lane past Scar Head and continue along the dirt track. Park on the left about 100m past the first gate. Continue along the track on foot for about 10mins (if you are not over-loaded) to reach the hut.

The race will be between 2 and 20 miles; there will be down hill sections as well as up; it may or may not be on recognised paths; there will be one or more check points; the weather will be fair or foul; a new handicap system may be released in due course; you may or may not win one of the much-prized KMC Trophies. However two things are certain: a good time will be had by all; no further information about the course will be released unless the bribe is extremely high. The custom of starting in three groups, according to fitness, at 11.00, 11.30 and 12 noon will be retained, so that nobody should be back too late even if they only walk. The route will be published about an hour before the first group leaves, giving plenty of time to confuse your rivals with unhelpful suggestions for the best route. Refreshments will be served following the race if volunteers come forward to organise them. Whilst this is a fun event. do not forget that mountains can be a dangerous environment and it may still be Winter in high places in April. Please therefore come appropriately equipped for all weather. Whistles and compasses are essential but use of GPSs will result in disqualification (except for check points).

Newcomers to the KMC should note that the Concordia Trophy is specially for them, open only to members who have not previously taken part in a KMC fell race as a member. It was intended to encourage the young members who were expected to achieve a fast time. However, as young members are few and far between these days and I will not be running to set a minimum pace, the field is wide open. The field is also wide open for the famous Sheilagh Manning Trophy which goes to the winner on handicap. If I can win it, so can you all: I did not discover that I could even complete a fell run until I was nearly 50! There are also trophies for the fastest male and the fastest female. Only Members (Full, Honorary or Associate) are eligible for trophies, but there will be something for the overall winner whether or not a member. Prospective members are advised to turn out to gain good Brownie points for when they apply to join, and keen fell-running guests are always welcome to show us how it should be done. The older members will be expected to turn out to show the younger members that they are not past it yet. The Committee will be expected to turn out in full to catch votes for the next AGM and to settle any disputes. The President should replace his 1980s hair style with a 1990s skin-head shave to keep him cool and give that aerodynamic advantage that he will need to retain his supremacy. By then, I will have moved from my 1990s style to something more appropriate for the new millennium, leaving him behind again. I hope there will be some serious rivalry at the sharp end and that all previous winners will turn out, that includes my name-sake who will give most of the younger end a good run for their money. Alison will be expected to set the pace for the ladies, after her Bob Graham success, but I am sure she will he challenged by Michelle. All in all, I expect everyone to be there so that the event once again becomes the most well attended meet, apart from the Dinner, which was the case in its earlier years. So get training, and it should set you up for an excellent climbing season. especially if you are aiming at the big mountain ranges of the World.

I shall need some volunteers to act as marshals at check points and to provide refreshments. Priority will go to those with bone fide doctor's sick notes. Please remember though that events of this kind can only take place with willing helpers and these should not be the same people year after year. I shall be looking forward to taking part next year. rather than organising, if I can get back to fitness after sundry operations, injuries and ailments. I know that Kevin will welcome the opportunity to take part this year having organised them in his own inimitable style for the last two years. I also hope that Ken will amble round, with an eye on Sheilagh's pot, after organising the event so successfully for very many years.

Will last year's trophy winners please dig them out of their attics, clean them up and return them to Mark Garrod, or any other Committee member, so that they are all available on the day. For further information and moral support please ring me.

April 22^nd - 23^rd - EASTER Portland Climbing - Rick Davies

Anyone fancy a weekend in the sun? Maybe we could clip a few bolts and get some hard earned outdoor footage in (or should it be metre's now where all metric?). Or perhaps it'd be nice to just get some big trad routes done in the sun. Who knows, maybe even the taste of freedom might take your fancy, if so why not do some bouldering.

Well, what can I say then, another Easter Bank holiday; four glorious days with which to worship the god that we know as rock!!!!

So far I've been in the club for nearly four years now, and as far as I can recall there hasn't been one single Dorset meet, which to my mind is a shame. Dorset, (as the new guide book proudly states), has something to offer any climber, there's Trad climbing on the cliffs at Swanage, Deep water soloing, bouldering and thousands of bolted routes, so why not give it a go? Myself, I intend on focussing my efforts on the bolted areas around Portland, and in particular plan on having a go at "Reptile Smile" and "Meg's got leukaemia" and a few other less well known routes in the area. So what's there for you? Well, there's well over a thousand bolted routes on the Island, the biggest selection of 4s and 5s in the country and more 6s and 7s than you could shake a stick at (hopefully not a clipping stick either), and for the super strong there's even some 8s to have a crack at!!!

For those of you that are interested, there is a barn available on the Island (no camping is aloud on the island) and can be booked by calling 0976407811, or as I'm planning on doing there are plenty of campsites in the area, the one I plan on using the Sea Barn campsite (01305 782218), if this one's full then we'll be at West Fleet (01305 782218). For your 'tick' on the meets list call in at Blacknor North by midday on the Sunday of the weekend.

So, what more excuse do you need to take a trip to the sunshine and bask on a piece of limestone?

April 29^th - 30^th - BH Wye Valley - Craig Marsden

As a quote from Dave Bone advertising last years Wye Valley meet:

Seeing as the Muir of Invervey meet last week was decidingly warm then I would vote for the Wye Valley!!

I have only climbed there once, on last years meet in fact as the only attendee!! but Shorncliffe certainly had a stunning setting. There is excellent climbing for all with a myriad of *** routesfrom VD up. A whole range of cavaliers at Shorncliffe, a mythical ape at Wintours leap or bolts at Ban-y-gor for those almost resident in Spain!

Of course Bristol is within striking distance if wet weather arrives, although I did manage to climb in the rain last year, significant tree cover helps keep the cliff dry.

I will take Daves recommendation of camping at the Beeches (OS162 GR549006), I believe it to be a basic but large & quiet site high above the Wye. Directions will be supplied, when I have them, ( you apparently will need them). The nearest pub is unfortunately 3.5 miles away- the Rising Sun in Woodcroft (Wintours Leap) which does good food!!

I will see you in the pub the week before the meet i.e. 13/4/2000.

May 7^th - Birchen's Edge - Susan Brooke

Grid Ref SK 279728

This is a traditional gritstone beginner’s crag with numerous routes, many of which are in the lower grades. The crag also offers plenty of bouldering opportunities for tinies and good picnic spots, which makes it family friendly. I'm not sure what the crag offers the Duncans and Kevins of this world but I believe there are routes up to E4 in standard. Parking is by the Robin Hood Inn, or for late arrivals wherever you can find, and the crag is approached by walking up the B6050 for 50m to a stile on the left. From here there is a 15-minute walk through woodland to reach the crag. I will be aiming to arrive by about 11:00am and will locate myself around the base of The Promenade, as this is probably the only route I'm capable of climbing on the crag.

May 13^th - 14^th - Working Party Meet - Ty Powdyr - Dave Wylie, Hut Manager

Not a huge number of major jobs on the list this time, but there’s always something else that ends up needing attention. There are two main tasks, plus a few smaller ones to keep us busy. If things go well then people may actually be able to get out and do some climbing on the Sunday (if the weather’s good)!

1. Finish off the painting in the Ladies Washroom. It shouldn’t take long to do complete this one unless there’s another dispute over the colour scheme. I don’t mind what colour it ends up, just as long as it gets done.

2. Install ducting for ventilating the dormitories. This is the main “technical” job planned for this meet. We’ll need to hire a core drill to get through the internal walls in a few (hidden) places. Panelling round the bunks in the lower RHS dormitory will eventually conceal this ductwork.

3. Polish the kitchen and hall floors (if we remember to buy the special polish); tidy the store room; general maintenance, cleaning etc.

I’ll make the usual request that people let me know in advance if they are thinking of coming along. It helps plan how much work we are likely to get done, as well as providing an idea of the amount of soup needed for the lunches. My home and work ‘phone numbers, plus my e-mail address, are in the new handbook and I’m nearly always down the pub on a Thursday so there’s no excuse!

Thanks, Dave.

May 21^st Cheedale - Duncan Lee

“walls, aretes and corners contain many superb routes which, for quality and difficulty are among the best in the country.” K. Sharples 1987 guidebook.

Spring is a perfect time to climb in this glorious limestone dale, the luxurious vegetation will not have reached head height yet. Chee Tor, which catches any sunshine on offer, is the sportsplan for the day. This impressive crag has classic routes from VS upwards including The Chopper (VS 5a *), 42nd Street (E3 5c ***), Autobahn (E5 6a ***), Great Central Route (E2 5a,5c ***), Sergeyenna (E1 5b ***) and the highly sociable Chee Tor Girdle (VS 4b,4b,4a,5a,4c***); a route which guarantees meeting everyone else on the meet.

I plan to approach the crag from Wormhill (careful parking /car sharing essential) and to be on the rock by 11am. Contact me by phone or at the pub on a Thursday for further details.

May 27^th - 29^th - BH Diabaig Climbing/Camping/All Sorts - Kevin Anderson

Diabaig, -the KMC’s alternative to Viagra

And where will you be?

Stranded in the Peak’s bank holiday congestion, queuing with essex types for routes at Pembroke, sheltering beneath your brolley in Snowdonia, or savouring the romance, beauty, and tranquillity of Scotland’s all too brief halcyon spring.

For those of us ground down by the purgatorial grime and greyness of a Mancunian winter, our bodies weary and our minds jaded, Diabaig is the elixir guaranteed to replenish our drained souls and reawaken us to life’s ‘true’ raison d’être.

So how do you get your prescription for Diabaig?

Well, as a special, once only, offer, Diabaig will be handed out free to those persons able to pass several relatively undemanding (for some!) tests:

• Demonstrate navigation skills by locating a Macpac tent at GR 905558 (Torridon campsite – near YHA).
• Demonstrate an understanding of the Julian calendar by arriving on or between 26-29 May.
• Demonstrate a tenuous link to the KMC – or any other similarly prestigious organisation.

And for whom is the Medicine suitable:

Those folk operating somewhere within the HS – E4 range, who like their Medicine rough, clean, near the sea and offering excellent protection. Note:

For those displaying adverse reactions or even mild side effects, several alternative options will be available – for example Seana Mheallan;Glac Dhorch (translates to ‘a fine sandstone crag’), Sgurr A’ Chaorachain (translates to a grand sandstone bastion with a stupendous Cioch Nose [3* VD]), as well as old reliables such as Liathach and Beinn Eighe for those ‘old reliables’ amongst us who prefer our rock underfoot rather than under finger tips.

NOTE: In the unlikely event that the forecast predicts inclement conditions for Diabaig, then the venue may be exchanged for Gogarth, Pembroke or Cornwall, depending on where is likely to receive the most favourable weather. So before venturing North, please contact the meet leader, Kevin Anderson on the 24-25 May.

PS: Diabaig is covered in the Northern Highlands Volume 1 guidebook – a inspiring guide whether or not you can make the meet.

June 3^rd - 4^th - Yorkshire Limestone - Rob Allen

More details in the next newsletter or see Rob in the pub.

Jun 24^th - 25^th - Brackenclose (Wasdale) - Bob Anderson

Come to Wasdale in June, how can anyone resist such an offer.

Climb on Scafell, Lakelands biggest crag with marvelous routes to suit everyone from the Tiger to the Rabbit (that’s me). Try Central Buttress, it was only HVS before and thank goodness I had the foresight to tick it off in 1984. Then there’s the elegant Botterill Slabs, Grooved Arête on Pikes Crag or if you are an early riser get onto East Buttress for The Centaur, Great Eastern Route or maybe even Ichabod.

But that’s not all the climbing in Wasdale. The Napes are but a short walk with many classic routes including Tophet Wall, which goes even in the rain (more exciting) and Pillar is also easily reached via Wasdale & Black Sail Pass.

I have booked half the FRCC hut at Brackenclose (9 men, 7 women) but extra numbers turning up will be no problem. Either there will be spares in the hut or you can camp outside the hut, facilities as per Ty Powdwr.

To reach the hut (GR NY 185 073) turn right off the road to Wasdale Head just past the end of the lake, as if you are going to the N.T. camp site. Drive past the camp site and cross the bridge over Lingmell Gill, then bear right along track towards Wasdale Head Hill farm. After about 100 yards turn left through gate and follow track to Hut.

Hope to see you there in June, early morning skinny dipping in Wastwater is optional

August 12^th - 19^th - Lundy. (8 days) - Dave Bone

Advance notice of an extra meet for your diaries. The dates have been carefully selected for low tides in order that you can do the maximum number of 3 star routes on this island - plenty of them at all grades. It will be a camping trip, not knowing the amount of interest yet, but this has to be booked well in advance (maybe by 3 months) so a reasonable level of commitment will be needed by then. Yes - a week is recommended. See Dave Bone for details. So make a note to come along and put the Adventure back into climbing (Ulyses Factor will put you on track!).

April Newsletter Index.

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