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June 2000 Forthcoming Meets
All note the following small print when taking part in meets :-
"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."
May 27th - 29th - BH Diabaig Climbing/Camping/All Sorts - Kevin Anderson
Diabaig, - the KMC’s alternative to Viagra
And where will you be? Stranded in the Peak’s bank holiday
congestion, queuing with essex types for routes at Pembroke,
sheltering beneath your brolley in Snowdonia, or savouring the
romance, beauty, and tranquillity of Scotland’s all too brief
halcyon spring.
For those of us ground down by the purgatorial grime and greyness of a
Mancunian winter, our bodies weary and our minds jaded, Diabaig is
the elixir guaranteed to replenish our drained souls and reawaken us
to life’s ‘true’ raison d’être.
So how do you get your prescription for Diabaig?
Well, as a special, once only, offer, Diabaig will be handed out free to
those persons able to pass several relatively undemanding (for some!)
tests:
Demonstrate
navigation skills by locating a Macpac tent at GR 905558 (Torridon
campsite – near YHA).
Demonstrate
an understanding of the Julian calendar by arriving on or between
26-29 May.
Demonstrate
a tenuous link to the KMC – or any other similarly prestigious
organisation.
And for whom is the Medicine suitable: Those
folk operating somewhere within the HS – E4 range, who like
their Medicine rough, clean, near the sea and offering excellent
protection.
Notes:
For those displaying adverse reactions or even mild side effects, several
alternative options will be available – for example Seana
Mheallan;Glac Dhorch (translates to ‘a fine sandstone crag’),
Sgurr A’ Chaorachain (translates to a grand sandstone bastion
with a stupendous Cioch Nose [3* VD]), as well as old reliables such
as Liathach and Beinn Eighe for those ‘old reliables’
amongst us who prefer our rock underfoot rather than under finger
tips.
In the unlikely event that the forecast predicts inclement conditions
for Diabaig, then the venue may be exchanged for Gogarth, Pembroke or
Cornwall, depending on where is likely to receive the most favourable
weather. So before venturing North, please contact the meet leader,
Kevin Anderson, on the 24-25 May.
PS:
Diabaig is covered in the Northern Highlands Volume 1 guidebook –
a inspiring guide whether or not you can make the meet.
June 4th - Yorkshire Limestone, Pot Scar (SD 795 678) - Rob Allen
This crag is South facing, attractive, dries quickly, varies in height
from 6 – 20m and there are 42 routes, in the range D to E2, in
the guidebook including a 55m VS traverse.
To get there follow the A65 Ingleton road from Settle over Buckhow Brow
and on far side of hill after a descent swing sharp right towards
Feizor, follow the road to the hamlet, through a gate and up the hill
for 400m, parking spot on right of Feizor gap. From the parking area
follow obvious path that contours the hillside and after 500m leads
to the crag. I’ll be there from late morning onwards.
June 10th - 11th - Cader Idris Camping - Sheena Hendrie
This is a repeat of the meet two years ago when the aim was to repeat two
of Bowden Black’s routes. Apart from Duncan and Sabina, the
rest of us failed due to the weather. I’ve fixed the weather
this time so Obsession (VS ***) here we come. (Duncan has promised
to lead Bowden’s grandson up the route.) Guide book is the CC
one for Mid-Wales.
Apart from climbing on a mountain crag, there is scope for mountain biking
and walking.
This will be a camping meet based at the site immediately adjacent to the
car park at GR 698152 (Sheet 124). From the centre of Dolgellau head
west on a minor road for 200 meters then branch left onto another
minor road. Pass the Gwernan Lake Hotel to car park ½ mile
further on. Camp on field immediately behind the car park.
Facilities are basic - cold water only and no showers but nice and
quiet field, with beer and food in the hotel.
Hope to see you there.
June 17th - 18th - Cloggy High Camp (or Ty Powdwr cop out) - Rick Kruze
After weeks of unbroken sunshine, Cloggy will be dry and warm, so this is
an ideal opportunity for a weekend’s climbing at this mightiest
of Welsh cliffs. [Who am I trying to kid?]
The idea is to walk up on Friday night and set up ABC next to the lake.
There are a number of pitches available but get there early to get
the best ones.
Saturday will dawn bright and clear so after a hearty fry-up it’s off to
the Black Cliff to test your resolve. There are too many three star
classics to list but choose from: Great Slab (VS), The Corner (HVS),
White Slab (E1), any number of extremes, the list goes on and...
and... because you’ve camped there you’ll be first on the
route and won’t have to wait behind tons of woolly britches and
beards. Perfect.
Climb until dusk then only 5 minutes back to the tent for the evening meal.
I suggest bringing your own booze (well you’re not having any of
mine!) but those who are desperate (and you’d have to be), can
run down to Llanberis for last orders.
Sunday: repeat Saturday schedule for a great weekend.
P.S. Just in case (and there is a faint chance) the weather isn’t
perfect then the hut is free so we can pretend-camp there instead.
June 24th - 25th - Brackenclose (Wasdale) - Bob Anderson
Come to Wasdale in June, how can anyone resist such an offer.
Climb on Scafell, Lakelands biggest crag with marvelous routes to suit
everyone from the Tiger to the Rabbit (that’s me). Try Central
Buttress, to think its E2 now scince the chockstone fell out, it was
only HVS before and thank goodness I had the foresight to tick it off
in 1984. Then there’s the elegant Botterill Slabs, Grooved Arête
on Pikes Crag or if you are an early riser get onto East Buttress for
The Centaur, Great Eastern Route or maybe even Ichabod.
But that’s not all the climbing in Wasdale. The Napes are but a
short walk with many classic routes including Tophet Wall, which goes
even in the rain (more exciting) and Pillar is also easily reached
via Wasdale & Black Sail Pass.
I have booked half the FRCC hut at Brackenclose (9 men, 7 women) but
extra numbers turning up will be no problem. Either there will be
spares in the hut or you can camp outside and use the hut, facilities
as per Ty Powdwr.
Hope to see you there in June, early morning skinny dipping in Wastwater
is optional
July 1st - 2nd - The Gower (climbing and swimming) - Michelle Harvie
Dust off your climbing gear/ bucket &
spade and come to the Gower for a sunny weekend; plenty to keep
climbers, walkers, swimmers and sunbathers happy.
There is a variety of crags around the peninsula, with many starred
routes of all grades. Plenty of ‘ Es’ in Fall Bay, and Diff
- VS in the delightful Three Cliffs Bay; a crag on the beach. There
are even quarries inland if you really want! Walkers can enjoy the
scenic coastal walks, Rhossili Downs, or escape to the Brecon hills
which aren’t too far away ( 1-11/2 hours drive). There will of
course be boundless opportunities for a dip in the sea, which is
always extreme!
We will be camping at Three Cliffs Bay Caravan Park, Penmaen which
has all the facilities you need ( and plenty you may not want such as
showers) and is a short walk from the beach, the crag & the sea!
Cost : £4.00 night per person. Please contact me for more info
, or to let me know ASAP if you want to come as I need to reserve
adequate pitches on the site. You can catch me in the pub on
Thursdays (occasionally), or phone me.
Directions
M4 exit junction 42 onto A483to Swansea. Turn left at lights onto
A4067 towards South Gowr & Port Einon.Follow road for 3.5 miles
to Black Pill, turn right onto B4436 ( signed South Gowr & Port
Einon) After 4 miles turn left onto A4118 for 2.5 miles Penmaen is
situated between the village of Parkmill & Nicholston.Tel no of
campsite if your lost ; 01792 371218.
July 9th - Yorkshire Grit, Rylstone - Robert Clark
This is a good quality Gritstone crag, quite high up (Alt 450m) facing NW.
Its quick drying and catches the sun in the afternoon and evening. As
you would expect, there are lots of good routes of all grades from VD
to extreme, encompassing all styles; slabs, walls, cracks etc. It is
approximately half an hour from the nearest parking to the crag. The
nearest parking is in a small layby (limited parking), just before
the Rylstone village sign, on the Skipton to Grassington road.
Alternatively park in Rylstone. It is my intention to start (and
probably finish) at the Rylstone Wall area, from 11AM onwards. See me
in the pub Thursdays if you want to co-ordinate cars etc. Hope to see
lots of people there.
July 15th - 16th - Dovestone Tor (incl Bivvy) - Dave Bone
No, not that Dovestones - this is the ‘remote’ crag on Derwent
Edge overlooking Ladybower reservoir! Grid Ref SK197898 just to make
sure. Excellent, clean, west facing Gritstone up to 25m high with a
great view and a walk in to see off the riff-raff. It’s in the
Stanage Guide, but I have a Climber article with many more routes in
it!
Such a shame to waste the walk in, so as an extra touch, a bivvy at the
site is added - weather permitting! Now you can climb till the sun
sets - magic. Rough plan is to arrive midday on Saturday and depart
for whatever Crag you wish on Sunday. Walkers too are welcome - if
you follow the Derwent edge clockwise, you can chuckle at the
climbers in their plastic bags on the way back to the car, or hey,
join in and make a 2 day trek!
July 22nd - 23rd Ty Powdyr & Snowdonia Walk - Iain McCallum
A Climbing & Walking Meet.
Saturday 22nd July - Cnicht Walk
The walk starts and finishes at Beddgelert - Distance 10/12 miles
Route: Beddgelert - Llyn Dinas - Hafod Owen - Llyn yr Adar - Cnicht(690m)
- Aberglaslyn - Beddgelert.
Meet at 9.45am. for a 10am. start in the car park in Beddgelert (GR589480-
near the Royal Goat Hotel - off -A498). Some help with transport
between the Hut and Beddgelert may be needed.
Evening - A hotpot supper will be provided at 7pm - The cost for the hotpot
(including melon, apple strudel and cheese and biscuits) will be
£3.50. A "Veggie alternative" will be available.
Please bring your own drinks.
In view of the catering arrangements I really need to know the numbers
beforehand. If you intend coming on this meet, please advise me
whether you require a "Hotpot supper" or
a "Veggie supper". Bookings for the hotpot via telphone to me -
LAST ORDERS BY 10pm. THURSDAY 20th. JULY.
Sunday 23rd July - Climbing and walking.
Best maps OS Outdoor Leisure 16 & 17.
July 30th Millstone Grit - Dave Dillon
Meet 10am Embankment area.
August 12th - 19th- Lundy. (8 days) - Dave Bone
A whole week’s climbing on Lundy is now on offer. A week of
adventure is guaranteed, even if I can’t do the same for the
weather (but it does better than the mainland!). The Details have
been sorted - a week’s camping will cost you £49, the
ferry £40 at present, and an allowance for long term car
parking needs to be made. If all cars are filled, budget for
approximately. £100 (plus travel & food/beer). The ferry is
at 10am Saturday from Ilfracoombe and you return at 19:15 on Saturday
the 19th (after a bus connection from Bideford). The campsite has
good facilities, there’s a not too expensive shop on the Island,
the Pub does food and brews its own beer, there’s loads of 3
star routes and the tides are right. Sold? Right, I’ve booked 8
people on the Island, so far, and £49 deposit will secure your
place. Places open to KMC and friends. Book real soon since if I
don’t get enough people I will have to cancel the excess to keep
the bank manager at bay. Also, Lundy restricts the numbers of
visitors so I may not get more places later on.
September - Climbing & Vie Ferrate in the Dolomites Neville McMillan
A small loosely-connected group of KMC members and friends is planning
to climb and scramble in the Dolomites in early-September. The
committee asked me if I would organise this activity as a KMC meet.
Since I have never been to the Dolomites before, don't know the
routes, don't know the huts, and don't speak Italian, I feel that
such organisation is not possible. However, I will try to
co-ordinate the activities, and share information, among like-minded
KMC members who organise themselves into climbing teams, and organise
their own transport.
My own aim is to spend about a week on vie ferrate in the Brenta area,
followed by a week climbing in the Rosengarten and Sella areas. I do
not plan to do very hard or very long routes, as I do not wish to be
benighted! Pit Schubert of the German Alpine Club has agreed to join
me, and he brings a good knowledge of the routes in this area, over
more than 30 years. Several linked routes on the Violett Towers are
planned. Activities in the Brenta are due to start around 2
September; climbing on the Violett Towers on 7 September; return to
UK around 17 September.
Would interested KMC members contact me as soon as possible, so that
information on dates, places, routes, huts, transport, etc., can be
passed around, and ideas and intentions discussed.
Neville McMillan – NOT the meet-leader, only the co-ordinator.
June Newsletter Index.
Copyright © 2000 Karabiner Mountaineering Club
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