Karabiner Mountaineering Club

August 2000 Meet Reports

March 5^th Howgill's Walk - Brian Taylor

Members Present: Virginia Castick, Joanne Castick, Linda Crossley, Tony Gask, Graham Harkness, Sue Harkness, Alan (Liverpool) Jones, Paul Johnson, Ian Mc Callum, Brian Taylor, Lester Payne, Pete Walker, Keith Williams, Alan Wylie, Dave Wylie.

Guests: Sarah Mothershaw.

The walk started out with an interesting ascent of Carling Gill, there was even the chance of a sporting bit of scrambling up a rocky spur before we came out towards the top of the gill. Cloud base was down at the start of the walk but as we approached the Calf at 676 metres visibility improved and lovely panoramic views of the lakes and the M6 unfolded! Unfortunately the wind proved to be a wee bit on the strong side, despite this we soldiered on over the Calf and then down towards the river Lune.

Lunch break was taken in the shelter of a sheep pen, a very hygienic place to stop! The second half of the walk was a complete contrast to the first half with a pleasant amble (without the wind) through woodland alongside the river. General feeling at the end of the walk was that it had been a good day out with very interesting varied terrain (that's what the punters told me to my face anyway).

March 18^th - 19^th Ty Powdyr, Paddy’s Night Cheilidh - Mary Stuart

The meet was attended by:

KMC members: Kevin Anderson, Dave Bone, Sue and Heather Brooks, Andy Croughton, Sabina Cosulich, Lynda Crossley, Dave Dillon, John and Ian Dobson, Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie, Al Metelko, Neil Perry, Dave Shotton, Mary Stuart, Jim and Judith Symon, Dave Whittingham, Chris Williamson.

Guests: Alan Dorsetier, Vanessa Addison, John Evans.

Mynnydd Members: Steve, Ollie, Parkie and Ken

Irish visitors: Emer, Brian, Joan, Catherine and Dave the Leprechaun

The rain held off for the weekend and climbing parties went to Gogarth, Tremadog, Little Tryfan, the Llamberris Pass and the Idwell Slabs. Routes tackled included (amongst others) Gogarth, Mangaletsi/Itch, Integral, Extraction, The Plum, Striptease, Fang, Grim Wall Direct, Grooved Arete, Meshach, Cenotaph Corner, Tryfan North Face Direct (with rope) and Bristly Ridge. This was an excellent effort for this early in the season. Apologies for any names or routes that have been omitted.

Saturday evening saw the First Annual Ty Powdwr St Patrick’s Day Cheidlidh. The Irish contingent were so impressed with the quick way the KMC mastered the moves in ‘the Siege of Ennis’ and ‘Cutting the Hay’ that they presented club president Duncan Lee with Dave the Irish Leprechaun. We expect that Senator Mitchell will be over shortly to investigate how Dave came to be hanging by a noose around his neck later that evening.

The outstanding performance put in by Ian (eat-your-heart-out-Flatley) Dobson earned him the Irish Dancer of the Evening award. Ability of note was also displayed by Sabina (no-I-am-not-the-bloody-leprechaun-he-has-a-beard) Cosulich, Al (I-would-rather-be-leading-an-E4-in-the-rain) Metelko, Linda (see-I-am-light-on-my-feet-in-spite-of-my-16-stone) Crossley, and Duncan (no-these-are-not-ringlets-and-I-will-not-tie-them-back-with-green-ribbons) Lee amongst others.

I have been asked to let you know how much the Irish contingent enjoyed their trip, and to thank you all - with a special thanks to Al, Kevin, Wavey and Andrew for taking them climbing (these routes are still being talked about in pubs in Dublin) and there is an invitation to KMC members for a climbing, dancing and guiness trip to Dublin.

April 15^th - 16^th Annual Fell Race, Lakes Hut - Alan (L) Jones

Members present: Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie, Alan (L) Jones, Chris Thickett, and Peter Walker.

Guests: Jane Crosthwaite, Sarah Partridge, Debie Powel and Lin Thickell.

Apologies to the hundreds of people who must have turned up on the original date, as hardly anybody turned up on the actual day of the Race. Unfortunately we were unable to find a hut available on the date listed in the Handbook. In these days of luxury, showers are an essential item. In the old hut, when we used to get over 40 competitors, there wasn't even a flush toilet. I cannot believe Mr (B) Smith's theory that everyone got lost trying to find the hut. KMC has been to Tranearth before and it is a club of super-fit mountaineers, many of whom have navigated themselves to the farthest corners of the globe.

The Meet Leader spent the Friday evening in the pleasant company of a small party of ladies from the Lancashire Climbing and Caving Club who had escaped their families for an outdoor activity weekend. Varied as their activities were, they had not reckoned on a Fell Race. Saturday morning was spent getting the hut (or at least the men's section) into a state fit to receive the hoards that were still expected. Mark and Michelle arrived at lunchtime and Michelle led an afternoon recy of the area. The meet leader had to follow a respectable distance behind, lest any secrets were let out accidentally. She took us up the Walner Scar track, over Dow Crag and then on to Brim Fell and Swirl How. She descended by Prison Band and then traversed over the shoulder of the Old Man to return by the lower part of the Walner Scar Road from near Coniston. On the way, I was impressed by the precision with which she checked the position on the map of every large boulder, m case it turned out to he a checkpoint. When we got back to the hut, another member was reported to be doing some last minute training: it turned out to be Peter Walker.

Sunday dawned bright and clear, ideal cool weather for a fell race. By ten o'clock, when the route was published, it was evident that everyone must have got the date wrong. No more runners, no check point marshals, no coaches, no support teams, no medical officers, no catering team, no rescue services! It was clearly going to be a hard day for the organiser, fulfilling all these posts. Could he run round the course ahead of the competitors, get to each checkpoint before the competitors, and then back to the hut and have the refreshments ready in time for the winner? Hardly, when the reason he was organising rather than competing was that he was not fit enough this year. He had however actually run the course the previous week, together with a bad weather alternative. Perhaps taking part is actually the easiest option. The problem was solved by setting questions about the checkpoints that competitors were unlikely to be able to answer without going there. Refreshments were to be an haute cuisine DIY arrangement. Competitors were left to go when they were ready and ordered not to get lost or injured. No sooner had these arrangements been agreed, than Chris and Lin arrived to offer their services. They were thus let off the hook to go their own walk, having conveniently come without their running gear, although Lin had a doctor's note. The three girls from the LCCC were roped in to make up the numbers and chose an early start with Pete Walker, whilst Mark and Michelle, being more laid back about fell races, left about ten minutes later.

Mark was first back, having chosen a quicker route between check points 2 and 3, which I had not thought of, quickly followed by Michelle. About an hour later the three LCCC girls came in, having just been to the first checkpoint by what they realised was not the shortest route. Their excuse was that they had to be back for their appointment at the riding stables, but they did at least admit that there was perhaps more to a fell race than they thought. That just left Pete, who claimed to have crept in sooner than he was seen: fancy an experienced athletics coach like Peter arguing with the referee! Nobody took the expected shortest route between points 2 & 3, but were probably put off by the safety warnings. The best way between Tranearth and Low Water remains a closely guarded secret for use on another occasion. The official results are shown below.

The Prize Giving was a bit of a non-event with no spectators to cheer. There was no argument about who the fastest male and fastest female were. The Sheilagh Manning Trophy was decided by a newly invented handicap list on which every single club member was given a percentage handicap, based on their age, years of club membership and support for the fell race in the past, but a negative handicap was given to those who had previously won the SM Trophy. (The Holy Grail from the original handicapper has not been handed down to me). Hard luck Pete, it was inevitable that Michelle would get SM's pot, as she was the only one who had not won it before. There was a spot prize to be drawn from the positions of those completing the course but not otherwise a prizewinner. I need not say what number was drawn. There were no contestants for the Concordia Trophy for first-time competitors. (Perhaps I should award it to myself this year, having recently been to Concordia in the Alps whilst aiming for Mont Blanc, but thats another story).

Thanks to those who took part, to Mark and Michelle for the DIY gourmet refreshments and to the LCCC for use of their hut. Sorry we were unable to fill the 16 places booked for 2 nights. Thanks also to Alan Shepard (ex KMC member), who helped me with checking out the route: he made me run it as part of his Tour of Tameside training, I was just going for a walk. Thanks also to Alan for kindly providing computer-produced colour maps with the checkpoints marked. The spare copies of this rare work of art will be auctioned to defray expenses, minimum bid: the cost of 2 bed-nights at the hut. Thanks also to the few regular fell race supporters who did telephone me with their apologies

The Club needs to have a serious debate at the next AGM about whether to continue the Fell Race, and how and when it should be run to get more support, if there is a demand. I, for one, would be very sad to see it go, but it is no use flogging a dead horse. At least 15 competitors are needed to make the event worthwhile. The question of hut bookings with uncertain numbers also has to be addressed. In addition to the organiser/meet leader, there needs to be 2 people at each check point, for safety, and a catering team, to make it a social occasion. As inevitably the date will be inconvenient to some, this means that at about a third of the Club has to be committed to the event in principle. The handicap system I have suggested makes it attractive for all ages to take part, the older members can walk and still be in with a chance for the SM Trophy. How about competing for it yourself Sheilagh? It would be like the good old days having all the young men running after you!

KMC Fell Race Results 16 April 2000

Check Points:	Tranearth (start/finish)	GR 281 957
	Low Water	GR 276 983
	Ruin by junction of paths	GR 263 992
	Blind Tarn	GR 262 967

April 28^th - May 1^st BH Wye Valley - Craig Marsden

Members Present: Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie, Sabina Cosulich, Chris Williamson, Dave Garland, John Evans, Joan Stewart, Kevin Anderson, Mary Stuart, Colin Maddison, Sheena Hendrie, Dave Bone, Vanessa Addison.

Guests Present: Lee Wood, Andy Roberts, Sarah Roberts, Al ??,

‘Why not come along to the sunkissed crags in sunny South Wales, you know it makes sense!’ Well for those who did it did, the days were long sunny and warm.

Well firstly I must thank Dave Bone for the campsite recommendation, superlatives don’t do it justice. I have many excuses for the inaccuracies in the report t follow, age (though in the KMC that’s no excuse), cheap aluminium pans, kids and probably most significantly I’ve left it far to long to write this damn report. If I have misrepresented any then tough why let the facts get in the way of any story good or bad!

Eventually everyone was assembled at the campsite the stragglers, including the meet leader. A leisurely morning ensued with the usual debate as to exactly what crag we were going to. An early decision ( well before dusk anyway) led to an assault on Wintours Leap. At the crag the group soon dispersed with various areas receiving visits and nay even ascents, Central Rib3 (VD) in the South bay area, Zelda in the Far South bay (HS) and Firefly (E2) on Fly wall, as you can see something for everyone. New techniques were displayed such as levitation by whinge, it seems to work but bring you ear plugs next time JS, wait until any polished holds are eroded, don’t forget shaving kit next time Colin!.

A quick return to the campsite via the pub (only 1 mile away not 3.5 as reported) , to check out food meant that we only had 20 minutes to get back to the campsite dump the car and return. The beer beckoned and so the most driven, Colin, John and myself made the return trip to enjoy excellent steaks and beer. 2 of our newer guests proved their KMC worthiness by missing the pub by one whole village, maintaining the KMCs navigational prowess.

Day 2 started with clear blue skies and a sympathy decision, on DG and Vanessa’s behalf, to walk down to Shorncliffe. They obviously enjoyed the walk back from Wintours Leap in the dark so much that a gentle stroll down to the delights of Shorncliffe was just what the doctor ordered. A mass assault started on the Central cave area with such classics suffering the ignominy of multiple ascents as Laughing Cavaliers(HVS), The Bitter Battle Tears(HVS), All for one (HVS), one for all(HS).

A good day was had by all, I think, and was rounded off by wine and whiskey at the finest mobile restaurant in the country.

Day 3 was a much more dispersed affair with Mary and Michelle pushing navigation to the limits and going out together on bikes. Lee et al deciding the delights of GO wall at Wintours leap were for his motley crew and Sabina ‘Isn’t falling off easy ouch’ Cosulich and Chris ‘Is that a gargoyle climbing with Sabina’ Williamson heading for another repeat at Shorncliffe. I’m sure if I tried much harder I could create more enemies but its getting late…oh what the hell.

Other activities undertaken: Mountain biking, walking some considerable miles I believe, getting lost and throwing oneself off various climbs. Not too much in the way of technical climbing terms was heard, I spent most of the weekend muttering. My general impression of the meet / soundbites were; an excellent campsite, Wintours leap good in places chossy in others, King Kong now looks considerably harder, Shorncliffe excellent slab climbing with good protection, a new term was heard (multiple times).. Oh no its a Sheeenaaaah!! I hope you all enjoyed the meet as much as I did!!.

Suggestions received for the King Kong competition

• Is that Malcolm and Lardy man up there?

• Joan are you sure those were organic bananas?

• Sabina you really must get him to cut those dreads, they look like they are covering his whole body from down here.

• Oh Dear! People doing a Sheeenaaaah always gets him angry!

  

May 21^st Cheedale, Chee Tor - Duncan Lee

Members present: Sabina Cosulich, Chris Williamson, Al Metelko, Rick Davis, Tony Major, Dave Dillon, Christine Beeston, Sheena Hendrie, Dave Garland, John Evans and Duncan Lee.

Guests present: Lance Davis, Marion Maddon and Alexander.

A break in the spring monsoon allowed a limited supply of sunshine to occasionally squeeze through tiny gaps in the blanket of grey cloud to glissen on Chee Tor’s water streaks, seepage and vertical dandelion forest. High water in the River Wye had submerged the stepping stones but a very convenient fallen tree provided an excellent natural bridge to the crag and a source of amusement. Unfortunately despite a few wobbles everyone made the crossing dry shod. Shame.

Upon closer inspection the cliff even revealed a large number of dry routes. Dave D and Christine checked out the first couple of pitches on The Girdle before abseiling off for their sandwiches. Suitably refreshed Christine led Gulle Gulle Groove (VS). Tony, Scumbag and the Tape Worm teamed up to ascend Leering Wall (HVS) and G.G.Groove whilst John, braving a shoulder injury, acted as team photographer. Lance, Marion and Alexander put in a guest appearance but refrained from balancing the log. Instead they settled for a riverside picnic whilst spectating. Sabina (sprained ankle) and I fought lethargy and gravity on Match of the Day and Sunny Goodge Street whilst Al and Rick busied themselves on Great Central Route (HVS), Valentine (HVS) and Leering Wall. Al was last seen leading Nostradamus (E1) as the drizzle began to fall.

Sheena and Chris combined forces to provide the cabaret for the day. After warming up on Leering Wall Sheena had a quick play on The Chopper before Chris had a considerably longer look at Flycatcher; a mean little E1! After due consideration and lengthy deliberation he decided to test Sheena’s belaying by throwing himself off the crag, spraining his ankle in the process. Another addition to the clubs injury list. As Sheena and I cleaned the route Chris tortured the fish by bathing his ankle in the river. Wavey fashioned Chris a suitable stave for the slow hobble back to the car and the Whaley Cafe.

Many thanks to everyone who braved the weather and the arduous approach.

June 10^th - 11^th Cader Idris Camping - Sheena Hendrie

Members Present: Duncan Lee, Sabina Cosulich, Sheena Hendrie, Neville McMillan, Pat Holt, Virginia Castick, John Castick, Andrew Croughton, Dave Dillon, Margaret Baldock, Dave Garland, John Evans, Vanessa Addison

Guests: Matt Cox, Steve Swygart, Shane Storbeck, Jackie Storbeck, Richard Holt, Paul Hough

OK well I sort of fixed the weather – we did get sun but I forgot to decline the side order of wind, so we got that as well. Weather notwithstanding, a total of 19 people turned up to assist in climbing Bowden’s routes on Cader Idris. Obsession was duly assaulted by a team of 6 (Matt, Duncan, Steve, Neville, Sabina and myself) all but Matt fortified by red wine before the ascent. Matt missed out because we opened the first bottle after he was on the route – pretty mean really. Thanks to Dave D and Andrew who ferried up the wine and glasses to the foot of the route – we reckon Bowden would have approved.

Meanwhile Table Direct was experiencing more mass ascents by Dave D, Margaret, Dave G, Vanessa and Paul. Shane and Jackie, not impressed by this British summer, decided that discretion was the better part of valour and retreated before experiencing frostbite on route. Other routes completed included Gwydrin (Duncan and Matt), Steric Slab (Steve and myself), Cyfrwy Arête (Dave G, Vanessa and Paul). Neville and Sabina, who drew the short straw by being last in the queue on Obsession, were rewarded only by a jammed abseil rope – retrieved by Duncan who hence prevented an epic. However Dave G tried to compensate by coming close to being blown off Cwyfry Arête – luckily his imitation of a limpet worked, and the missing Eagle Owl failed to spot a tasty morsel ripe for dinner.

On Sunday Virginia and John, who had completed Precipice walk on the Saturday, were last seen heading for Cyfrwy Arête. Pat and Richard were trying their hands at mountain biking, while everyone else disappeared in various directions vainly seeking shelter from a strengthening wind.

Thanks to all who came – but not the sheep which tried to invade my tent on Friday night and only succeeded in unsuccessfully trampolining on the flysheet. Thanks to Duncan, supplier of gaffa tape for the subsequent emergency repairs. When I find the sheep with the correct hoof profile, we can have a barbecue.

June 24^th - 25^th Brackenclose (Wasdale) - Bob Anderson

Present: Chris Thickett, Phil Ramsbottom, Sean Kelly, Robert Clark, Linda Batey, Peter Walker, Bob Anderson. Guest: Tony Field, Peter?

A poor forcast no doubt was responsible for the modest but select turnout.

Friday afternoon saw Chris, Phil, Bob & Tony walking & scrambling on Harter Fell. We managed about 100 yards (for those metric types that about 91m) from the car before donning overtrousers, the next 3 ½ hours were wet (very wet) & we arrived at Brackenclose similarly wet. We were met by a cheery blaze (in the fireplace) & soon filled the drying room with our wet tops.

Saturday was fine but dull, with cloud clipping the highest tops. Sean, Robert & Peter? set off to do the Wasdale Horseshoe whilst Tony, Chris, Phil & Bob tackled Piers Gill (easy bit) Broad Crag, Ill Crag, Scafell & Scafell Pike (via Broad Stand). Linda arrived in the evening, also seen lurking about after a solo walk was Peter Walker.

Sunday started with light drizzle, but only for about 10 minutes, then fine all day but again low cloud lurking on the tops. Sean departed for Wales whilst Robert & Linda set off for Buckbarrow. Peter W for a day in the mist on Kirkfell & Gable whilst the rest of us headed for Pillar, a good choice as the Ennerdale side was clear all day. A fine scramble out of Wasdale over Pillar & down to Pillar Rock, up Old West & onto Highman, descent via Rib & Slab.

Monday saw Phil Bob & Tony on Wallabarrow in hot sunshine.

Thanks for coming, I had a great weekend.

July 1^st - 2^nd The Gower (climbing and swimming) - Michelle Harvie

Present:Michelle Harvie, Mark Garrod, Mark Gleadale, Cathy Gordon & Emma, Julie, Paul & Jessica Harding, Neville Mcmillan, Sheena Hendrie, Roger, Bridget & Cerys Mapleson, Ian & Pam McCallum.

As we pitched the tent in the rain at midnight on Friday, and woke to the rain on Saturday a weekend in the Gower did not seem such a good idea. However, thanks to a dramatic change in the weather and excellent company it turned out to be a great weekend. Thanks to everyone who came, swam & climbed. Particularly to Jessica, Emma & Cerys for persuading their parents to come, and to Ian & Pam for dropping in. For all present and those who weren’t here’s a quick Gower quiz of the weekends activities.

1.How many childless couples were on the meet?

1. 2

2. 0

3. 1

2 By what means did Chris Rickard (Roger’s Lowe Alpine partner 1999) arrive at the campsite?

1. Fell ran from Abergavenny

2. On a tractor

3. Motorbike & microlight.

3.What did Sheena wear to lead the route” Gethsemane” (Severe on Fall Bay)?

1. Nothing, to show off her bikini stripes from the Caribbean.

2. Roger’s climbing boots.

3. Flippers & snorkel.

4. What was Bridget’s first lead of the weekend?

1. A 3 foot wall at the campsite.

2. Divine guiding light; E 7 testpiece.

3. Joggled wall Direct (Hard severe, 3 CliffsBay).

5. How many hours of sunshine were there over the weekend?

1. More than Glasgow, but not as much as the Caribbean (according to Sheena)

2. We don’t know as we fell asleep in the sun on Saturday afternoon.

3. More than at Mary’s alternative Lake District meet.

6. What impressed Jessica Harding most over the weekend?

1. Her dad climbing more than 15 feet from the ground.

2. Chris Rickard (& bike/ microlight)

3. The meet leader climbing.

4. Neville’s legs

7. Who thinks Three Cliffs Bay is better than Stanage?

1. Paul Harding.

2. Cerys Mapleson as sand tastes better than the dirt at Stanage.

3. The meet leader as there are climbs she can lead there.

8. Who swum in the sea?

1. The KMC synchronised swimming team.

2. Al as he refused to leave the tidal crag until it was dark.

3. Chris Williamson’ s belay bunny as Chris lead the tidal E7 test piece.

July 9^th Yorkshire Grit, Rylstone - Robert Clark

Present: Robert Clark (meet leader), Linda Batey, Cathy Gordon, Mark Gledhill & Emma.

Oops, wrong weather. Never mind how, but me and Linda ended up at the crag with less than half a rack, ie Rocks 1 to 4, Friend no 1, 1 Camalot, 2 slings, 5 extenders. I’m sure this didn’t stop them in the good old days, but I didn’t want to tear my Ron Hills. So we did one route (Presidents Slab). We were then joined by Cathy, Mark and Emma for lunch. We all admired the ominous black clouds rolling in from the North West. The crag was slimy and dank. We went for a walk to the Monument and then back to the car.

Note to prospective menbers; We do actually do some climbing on occasions, when the sun shines. Rhylstone is a great crag, well worth visiting, but probably needs at least one sunny day to dry out before visiting it.

August Newsletter Index.

Copyright © 2000 Karabiner Mountaineering Club