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December 2000 Meet Reports
September 2000 Climbing and Vie Ferratae in the Dolomites
Co-ordinator: Neville McMillan
Secretary to the Co-ordinator: Chris Thickett
Members seen in action: Neville McMillan, Sheena Hendrie, Dave Bone, Tony
Major, Phil Ramsbottom, Chris Thickett.
A table in the Sellajochhaus was set for six diners. Seats were
occupied by four quiet, thoughtful figures whilst the other two
remained loud and overwhelmingly empty. Outside the hut, the last
vestiges of daylight had been extinguished for some time.
The silence at the table was broken by Sheena, always keen to find a
solution to a difficult problem. "I know!" she said, "After
the meal, we'll get pissed then go out and look for them with our
headtorches."
However, they had not had time to finish enjoying the first course when into
the room burst Phil, still with his climbing rucksack and smelly
tee-shirt on his back, to announce the delayed return. In the
meantime, Chris was confirming with the hut staff that this unplanned
lateness would still result in being fed. The others were relieved as
they had been spending the last few minutes trying to remember where
they had left their headtorches or whether they could operate them
effectively in an inebriated condition. These latecomers were also
relieved, not because they had narrowly escaped a very cold
benightment without water, food or adequate clothing, but that they
had just managed to avoid an embarrassing mention in the annual
dinner speaker's lampooning.
Let's face it, they had been too casual about setting off that morning. And
on that third pitch, two hours had been wasted by themselves and
three Italian teams trying to find a way up the wrong bit of rock. As
the Italians sensibly roped down, English persistence found the right
way up to the scrambling section above. This had led onto the ledge
that corkscrewed round the thousand foot high Third Sella Tower. From
here, there had been pitch after pitch of great climbing in fantastic
positions, although towards the top anxious faces had been silently
noting the sun starting to slip quickly down behind Sasso Lungo.
Retreat from the summit was achieved in haste as panic circled around
not far out of sight. Abseils were set up and completed with great
effect whilst fellow evacuees were overtaken in the attempt to avoid
that ultimate humiliation. Never mind! As Neville's Italian friend,
Carlo, says "In the mountains, you have to be prepared to die!"
This incident happen during the second week of the occupation of the
Dolomitic lands by KMC members. The Brenta had been the first object.
For the best part of a week, Neville, Sheena, Phil and Chris had
concentrated on completing the 'via ferrata' excursions whilst moving
from one high hut to another. Weather conditions interfered with the
various attempts on the Brenta summits but allowed the passage along
these many iron-protected scrambles. The only hazard appeared to be
the state of the glaciers, the naked ice causing some slippery
problems especially embarrassing for Neville - "Just hold my
hand, mein herr, and I will rescue you! So!" The Bocchettes Alte
and Centrali, the SOSAT, the Benini, the Brentari, the Orsi, the
Palmieri and the Vidi were all experienced by combinations of this
wirey bunch. None of these routes could be described as difficult but
all proved to be enjoyable with many an exposed section likely to
cause embarrassing involuntary bodily functions for the unprepared.
In the meantime, Dave and Tony completed (and, in part, straightened
out) the fine 'Fehrman Route' (550m, IV+) up the south-west deidre of
the very impressive tower of the Campanile Basso, although some cold
discomfort had been endured early that day. These two then spent the
following day on the wires where they managed an unexpected encounter
with the others.
A first mass migration then saw all re-esemble at the Sellajochhaus in
the main Dolomite area. The Sella Pass proved to be a good striking
off point for attempts on both rock climbs and vie ferrate.
A particular fine day was completed by the wire-hopping four who
climbed the Possnecker route, crossed the Sella plateau and then
descended the Tridentina with refreshments taken at the Pisciadu hut.
During this period Dave and Tony climbed the First Sella Tower by the 'Rossi
Route' (South Face, 170m, VI+) which had an exciting first pitch
considered to be well undergraded; the original 'Schubert Route' on
Piz di Ciavazes (220m, VI); and the West Face of the Third Sella
Tower (300m, VI). The middle route was first climbed by another of
Neville's European cronies, although it must have detracted him from
finishing that symphony.
Neville and Sheena sampled the polished rock on the very popular South-west
Ridge of the First Tower (100m, IV+) whilst Phil and Chris had
climbed the South-west Face of the Third Tower (350m, III) as already
mentioned.
The best laugh of the trip was provided by Neville who managed to
entertain us with a party trick involving a steel traffic barrier, a
tripod and the self-timer on his new camera - "Unattach
yourself, mein herr, and I will explain how to take a photograph.
So!"
An exodus was then made to the Catinaccio or Rosengarten. On arrival at
the Alberto hut, Phil and Chris rushed out to climb the nearby and
very exposed little tower, Torre Piaz, nominally by the South-west
Ridge (60m, IV), finishing the afternoon with a spectacular, mainly
free abseil from the top.
Next day, Phil and Sheena did the rather scrappy Winkler Crack (150m, IV)
on the majestic Vajolet Towers with Dave and Tony jamming up, in
gritstone style, the last pitch of the South Face Direct (110m, V+)
just in time for a meeting with the other two on top of the Winkler
Tower. Due to the cold wind, there was only one item on the agenda -
how to get down! Tony obviously did not go along with the consensus
as, instead of a making a shuttle landing onto the chockstone he went
for a space walk at the end of one abseil. The previous day which had
been quite hot in the sun, he had shivered with Dave on the shaded
north face of Punta Emma (North-east Face, 250m, V). Their last
climb, again on Punta Emma, was the South-east Face (V-) which was
considered to be not worthwhile.
Catinaccio d'Antermoia (3002m) was climbed up and down by vie ferrate, the
splendid day being enjoyed by the four wire-snappers. Although easy,
the routes proved an interesting traverse of a fine rocky mountain
especially in the good prevailing conditions.
Dave and Tony return to the Sella area where they climbed the South Face
Direct of Piz di Ciavazes (300m, VI) where they found the
difficulties short with lots of easy climbing. They seemed to be the
last people on the campsite as end of the season hit the Val di
Fassa.
So, they stormed down to Arco. In turn they generated a fohn wind storm
of such proportions on the final Saturday with that it took the tops
off their enthusiasm as well as the trees. However, Neville and
Sheena had managed to frighten themselves on the Mori via ferrata
which is to be found near Arco - see below.
Phil and Chris had also returned to the Sella. They drove down to Arabba
to catch the 'flying bucket' up to the Trincee route on the Bec de
Mesdi. Guess what? The funicular was a building site. A quick change
of plan rescued their day with a splendid walk along the scenic Viel
dal Pan and the panoramic viewpoint of the Col de Cuch ridge. They
also enjoyed a fine walk in the Odle group in uncertain weather that
developed into a thunderstorm or two before traversing the Sasso
Piatto by the Oskar-Schuster route on the last of the warm days.
Following these trips on the tops, they left Sella at around 7
degrees of shiver, and two hours later they were in Arco in 27
degrees of swelter. Here, they completed a climb on the Torre di
Piedramurata (Torretta-Schaffer Route, 110m, 3b, loose, definitely
not recommended) then followed on the next day with an ascent of the
Mori via ferrata. On this latter, the difficulty took them by
surprise. It proved to be very strenuous, extremely exposed, yet
completely worthwhile. And nackering! The main traverse (Traversata
delgi Angeli) must be close to 100 metres long. Highly recommended!
Arco seems to be a unique place - they welcome and encourage climbers! A
£100,000 competion climbing frame had been built only this year
and there appears to be no restrictions to the crags. Wow! There are
miles of giant walls and slabs which must be only partly developed at
present. Instead of the scrappy route at Piedramurata, perhaps better
use of time could have been spent sampling the bolted routes at Corno
di Bo on the shore of Lake Garda itself or on the long slabs of
Parete Zebrata a few miles north of the town. But most important of
all, the pizzerias, bars and ice-cream parlours were wonderful! - as
well as the climbing shops. Many end of season bargains seem to be on
offer for the impoverish English mountaineer to snap up - just think
of all that money you could save!
September 23rd - 24th Bowderstone Hut - Joe Flynn
Members:
Joe Flynn, Sue Brooke, Lester Payne, John Dobson, John Evans, Dave
Garland.
Guests:
Ian Dobson, Jesper Jórgensen and Kirsteen Young.
The gallant band defied panic petrol queues, Labour Party conferences,
dodgy weather forecasters and arrived at a good hour on Friday night.
After a short hike to the hut (only 600 yds. the sign said) we dumped
the gear and surveyed the bivi while the young men of property made a
second trip to collect the rest of their luxuries. The Bowderstone
is a traditional climbing hut of Victorian style, it harks back to
the golden era..... O.K so you get the picture. Lester, with the
expert eye of a Hut committee member, surveyed the quality of
accommodation and level of maintenance and made some disparaging
remarks. We opened the shutters and windows to let out some of the
traditional smell, damp, ambiance and went to the pub.
The Landlord of the local hostelry refused to serve three of the party as
looking so young and having no I.D. he refused to believe they were
over 18. (It did not include the clean-shaven meet leader -
unfortunately! But did include a committee member)
Saturday morning failed to dawn so we eventually emerged through the soft
cloud and gently rising mist and decided to wander the hills. What
began as stroll to the teashops of Watendlath developed into a Kinder
type bog trot around Blea tarn. We were eventually rewarded with
excellent vistas of the Lakeland peaks from the ridge of Ullscarf. We
could even see a yacht race on Windermere, and I think our expert
young sailor Ian was looking longingly.
Ullscarf by the way is at OS ref.292 122, height 2370ft (or if using John's
new birthday present GPS, 2941 1267 height 2390ft. sic. ) " How
can you argue with 9 satellites and the latest technology ".
Easy if it is wrong.
The return was very pleasant in the warm evening air. A short diversion
to Stonewaite Inn just to check if the management would serve such a
youthful party but sadly they did. Feeling lucky we then tried the
Scafell again and this time they were pleased to serve us. Surprising
how a seven or eight mile walk can age you.
It was a merry little band that meandered back to the hut. What a
transformation! The little cabin in the woods was warm and cosy
thanks to Dave and John who had gone into Keswick and then struggled
back with a 25kg. bag of coal and 3+ yrs. toothbrush for the meet
leader. I bet they wished it was a roadside hut.
All slept soundly even very soundly according to Kirsteen who had not
been warned about taking earplugs.
The forecast for Sunday morning was good but with rain was forecast for
the afternoon. We rushed to Shepherds crag for some quick routes on
Brown Slabs. Kirsteen's inaugural rock climb Brown Slabs arete turned
into Brown Slime arete as the torrential rain arrived early. Lester
and Jasper slid around on Slabs Direct and John and Ian also gave the
Arete what for.
John and Dave had climbed on Shepherds on Saturday and got the better day.
On Sunday they went further afield to get wet. They headed for Allen
Crags but by Esk Hause were having second thoughts. They also managed
some routes on Castle Rock - Via Vita , Slab route and a couple of
others.
It was a traditional club-climbing meet in the Lakes. All cracked on
they enjoyed it. I certainly did and it does make you appreciate Ty
Powdre and the hard working Hut committee.
September 30th - Oct 1st Working Party Meet - Dave Wylie
Present:
Dave Wylie, Alan Wylie, Steve Taylor, William Taylor, Emma Richards,
Katie Winstanley, Iain McCallum, Lester Payne, Bob Anderson, Frank
Williams, Margaret Williams, Derek Seddon, Jim Taylor.
The above "Baker's Dozen" of volunteers, with ages ranging from
2 to over 70, set to work at Ty Powdwr on the last weekend of September.
The focus of attention was the Lower Right dormitory, "Elidir Fawr".
Insulation and wooden panelling were fitted round the bunks and along
the end wall by Steve, Alan and Dave. Bob and Frank completed the
required pre-work for this, installing the remaining battens on the
end wall. The rest of the ceiling was plasterboarded by Jim and
Lester, with miscellaneous assistance from the others. Dave also
fitted new lights to replace the old fluorescent tubes. There's still
some finishing off left to do, but already the room looks much more
inviting.
Steve gets started with the panelling
Lester, Jim and Alan fit the plasterboard ceiling
The end result
In the Lower Left dormitory, "Glydwr Fawr", Derek constructed
the new trapdoor for access into the under-floor void, complete with
cork tiles to match the rest of the floor. The task of giving the
kitchen a good clean was taken on by Margaret, while Emma and Katie
cleaned and tidied the lounge. The two girls also pulled out a fair
quantity of ragwort (nasty stuff) from round the outside of the Hut.
Iain did the catering for lunch, as well as tending the trees in the
plantations.
Many thanks to everybody who came along - it was an excellent weekend's
work. Particular thanks to Steve who procured and transported all the
materials, as well as providing the power tools (including a
pneumatic nail gun) that improved the efficiency of fitting the
panelling by about 1000%. I'll also take this opportunity to thank
all the others who have supported working meets during my stint as
Hut Manager. We've got a lot done in the last few years and we're
nearly finished!
Dave.
October 8th Laddow - Ken Beetham
Members:
Ken Beetham, Virginia Castick, Joanne Castick, John Castick, Sue
Brooke, Alan Peck, Alan (L) Jones, Dave Dillon, Lester Payne, Andrew
Croughton, Mark Wiltshire, John Dobson, Dave Wylie, Neil Perry, Chris
Williamson, Dave Whittingham, Roger Mapleson, Bridget Mapleson,
Christine Beeston, Duncan Lee, Sabina Cusilich, Colin Maddison, Dave
Shotton, John Evans, Dave Summerfield, Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie,
Vanessa Addison, Alan Barber, Neville McMillan, Sheena Hendrie, Joe
Flynn, Jim Symon, Judith Symon, Phil Ramsbottom
Guests: Lisa Cox, Peter Sharpe, Peter Bateman, Catherine Perry,
Tam Sayers, Kate Surry, ? Flynn
Prospective Members:Carys Mapelson, Rosin Maddison
The people who turned up at Crowden car park at the appointed time
witnessed Ken hobbling out of his car cursing a severely injured
knee. This prevented him from walking up to the crag but not from
holding court in the car park.
The old crag was not in a very welcoming mood, the recent rain had taken
its toll and left it dripping from every orifice with the dry bits
covered in fluorescent green slime (soft hand jams). With the sun
shining and no steam emanating from the cave (vague theories about
the steam from Ken's kettle and the clouds and the rain normally at
Laddow) most people opted to sit outside until it became obvious that
it really was not going to rain and so there was no alternative but
to climb.
The driest rock was on Tower Face which received many ascents - in many
different styles including some that would have had Ken glowing with
approval - I shall say no more....
Many old favourites were climbed - some enjoyed, some not - ask Sheena to
recommend a good Laddow diff and she may not mention North Climb
(renamed North Slime for the day).
It was good to see many old and new friends walking up to say hello,
many continued on to Black Hill, some just chatted and went back down
- it was that sort of a day.
Phil Ramsbottom
October 14th - 15th FRCC Joint Meet, Ty Powdyr - Bob Anderson
Present:
KMC: Chris Thickett, Iain McCallum, Bob Anderson.
FRCC: Ken Jackson, Jill Aldersley, Dave Bodecott, Martin Armitage.
Bob & Chris arrived lunchtime Friday, it was raining. One look at the
milestone was enough so we drove on to Little Tryfan. By magic the
rain stopped and a pleasant afternoon was enjoyed completing 4 routes
on gradually drying rock, practising big boot technique.
Ken, Dave & Martin arrived late Friday to be greeted on Saturday
morning by low cloud and steady rain. Dave & Martin went to the
climbing wall near Hanrng, where they met Jill. The rest scaled a
very wet Elidir Fawr, except Iain who circumnavigated (navigation
being the operative nautical term), Llyn Padarn.
Sunday was a great improvement with clear blue skies. Iain went Moel Elia,
Dave & Martin to the Pass (Old Holborn) whilst Chris & Bob
engaged in more big boot technique on Charity at Idwall.
Not the best of weather but I suppose two days climbing out of three must
be deemed good for October 2000.
October 22nd Yorkshire Dales Walk - Margaret Baldock
Members:
Jim Taylor, Sandy & Jim Gregson, Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvey,
Dave Wylie, Dave Dillon, Lorna Marsden, Linda Crossley, Margaret and
Frank Williams, Lester Payne, Andrew Croughton, Iain McCallum, Chris
Thickett, Brian Taylor, Sheena Henrie, Alan Liverpool Jones, Alan &
Christine Jones + Skippy & Meg
We set off in sunshine at an alarming pace. Some members paused to
photograph the impressive waterfall at Janet's Foss. Mark stayed
back to assist the dogs in navigating Gordale Scar. Surprisingly the
whole assembly had gathered together at the top giving the meet
leader an opportunity to take the register.
We bounded along towards Malham Tarn where the first communal debate of
the day was held to decide which rout the meet leader had in mind.
As she was normally at the back this became an ongoing problem. Mr
Gregson's patience was impressive and lasted as far as the shores of
M Tarn where he was last seen. Morning coffee took place at this
point, half an hour late according to some members. However, sun
still shone and we had a pleasant rest gazing across the waters.
People strode on confidently along the Pennine Way until it became clear the
meet leader was a bit confused about the way. The next section of
the walk was an impressive example of collaboration as different
members offered advice and suggestions about which direction was
best. We soon found our way up to Midge Hills at which point
rebellion broke out when a number of members announced it was time
for lunch. Still no rain though no sun either by this time. We had
by now managed to lop 2 miles off the original route and soon arrived
down at Malham Cove. The day was finished very pleasantly with tea
and scones by a stream in Malham. Only 5 members missing. Thank you
to everyone for a most enjoyable day.
December Newsletter Index.
Copyright © 2000 Karabiner Mountaineering Club
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