Karabiner Mountaineering Club

August 2002 Meet Reports

20^th May 2001 - Stanage Edge - Susan Brooke

Members: Dave Bone, Sue Brooke, Sabina Cosulich, Andrew Croughton, Dave Dillon, Roger Dyke, Paul Evans, Joe Flynn, Mark Gledhill, Kathy Gordon, Sheena Hendrie, Duncan Lee, Colin Maddison, Bridget and Roger Mapleson, Neville McMillan, Lester Payne, Gary Thornhill, Dave Wylie

Guests: Emma Gledhill, Sam Halligan, Anna Jirolami, Andy Lidstone, Roisin Maddison, Anthony Mannion, Carys and Owen Mapleson, Callam McKenzie

O ye of little faith, let a little bit of rain stop you from setting off, when on the other side of the Pennines the suns cracking the flags. Well I admit to a little bit of exaggeration, but it was a fairly warm, dry day with the sun threatening to burn off the clouds on a few occasions. The early team, Paul and Anthony were stood within 10 yards of each other when the meet leader (easily identified by the cripple poles) finally got to the crag, so the obvious thing was to introduce them and team them up. Anthony had only recently returned to climbing after several years abstinence and Paul had exhausted him by the end of the day, with April Crack and Holly Bush Crack ticked before anyone else arrived. Dave Bone in the absence of a partner decided soloing was the order of the day, after declining the recuperating meet leaders offer of assistance as belay bunny. Apparently the weekend clashed with the society wedding of the year, Ann (nee Woolley) and John Sanderson's, otherwise known as Mr and Mrs Barking, so very belated congratulation's if they have not already been proffered. The upshot of this was that many people, including the president and his first lady, arrived fairly late in the day, looking hung over and subdued. The meet leader was kept entertained by the crèche and respective parents, and was trusted to hold a baby on more than one occasion and to look after Roisin (or was it the other way round). I had a thoroughly pleasant day and would like to say thank you to everyone who attended.

2^nd September 2001 - The Roaches - Susan Brooke

Members: Dave Bone, Sabina Cosulich, Roger Dyke, Paul Evans, Sheena Hendrie, Tony Major, Lester Payne, Peter Walker

Guests: Anthony Mannion, Andrew Mullins, Martin Wilcox

Apologies from the absent meet leader who was tied up finishing her final assignment for her degree and in danger of missing the deadline! The meet report has been compiled from information forwarded by Roger Dyke and Lester Payne, so many thanks to you both.

It was misty and drizzly with people arriving to find the crag dripping wet, to decide that easier routes were the order of the day.

Lester teamed up with Anthony and Martin to do Inverted V? ( I thought this was on Stanage), Maudes Garden and Right Hand Route whilst Paul and Roger climbed Inverted Staircase, Black Velvet and Crack and Corner, followed by a polished Right Hand Route (blamed on the earlier ascent), on which Roger appears to have had a bit of an epic. Rumour would have it that he fell off three times on the layback crack of a route graded VD, to by pass it by zipping up Gully Wall VS, to the first ledge and that he questions whether perhaps the grading of the routes have been confused in the new guide. There was a further epic on Right Hand Route later in the day, when Sheena had to bend double, half on and half off a big ledge, to try and free a rope jammed in a slot just a few inches below her waist. Fortunately Sheena was on double ropes and could simply untie the offending rope and climb on. Roger bemoans not having access to his camera to record this for posterity (and featuring on the website), but the camera was below a yoghurt pollution band in his sack, resulting from a burst pot, and was unreachable without elbow length rubber gloves. Sheena did not have a good day, with herself and Sabina going down in history for the longest ascent of Jeffcoats Buttress. References were made to Sheena failing to fix a crucial runner high in Jeffcoats Chimney to protect the 5B move at the start, getting a good grip on the excellent finishing hold at the top of the route 'several times' and to the totally necessary use of aluminium holds, due to excessively healthy lichen growth.

Peter Walker was a man on a mission and walked the Staffordshire Moorlands path from Hen Cloud to the River Dane, returning via the Hanging Stone, Back Forest and Roach End.

It sounds like a good time was had by all and I am sorry I was not able to be with you.

14^th April - Hotpot and Slide Competition - The President

First things first. Grovelling apologises are due for my absence as are big thank yous to Colin for covering for me, Ian for leading the walk and to Mr. Dobson for sorting out the judging of the slide competition for me. Thank you one and all. It was nice, sunny and hot in Sardinia however but I digress.

The Climbing: Stanage High Neb Area.

Members present: Colin Maddison, James Richardson, Neville McMillan, Roger Dyke, Virginia Castick, Joanne Castick, Paul Evans, Bob Mort, Dave Shotton, Linda Crossley, Craig Marsden, Bridget Mapleson, Martin Heaton, Zoe Talks, John Evans, Al Metelko, Dave Dillon, Lester Payne, Mark Ashley, Rich Johnson, Dave Wylie, Ann Sanderson, Paul Harding, Julie Harding and Steve Jolly.

Guests Present: Roisin Maddison, Martin Willcox, Shane, Martyn Mandel, Julie Johnson, baby Johnson, Jessica Harding, Fiona Roy and assorted friends.

Back to the proper climbing on clods own rock. The usually peaceful High Neb area had been invaded by several parties including the massed ranks of the KMC despite the COLD (ha) wind across the top of the crag. It even stayed dry until about 4pm when light rain forced the last hardy souls to follow the rest to the café or the pub.

Before rain stopped play however most of the low and middle grade routes in the area received some attention with High Neb Buttresses runner placements not being troubled by Al. Other routes assaulted and assailed include Norse Corner Climb, Tango Crack, Tango Buttress, Inaccessible Crack, Eric's Eliminate and a variety of other things that I failed to translate from Colin's kindly scribbled notes. He should be a doctor.

The day did however see one of the final outings of Roger Dykes old rack (now on display in the mountaineering museum in Reghed) much to Neville's relief. Long may it rust in peace. With a suitably thirst worked up a retreat to the pub was made for the rest of the days entertainment.

The Slide Show: The Navigation.

Once again The Navigation proved to be a popular venue for the evenings activities with 48 people sitting down for an enjoyable meal before the main event, the slide competition. The winners that were chosen are as follows:

Rock Climbing Action

• 1^st Duncan Lee
• 2^nd Dave Dillon
• 3^rd Andrew Croughton

Mountain Action

• 1^st Andrew Croughton
• 2^nd Andrew Croughton
• 3^rd Dave Lygate

Human Interest

• 1^st Colin Maddison
• 2^nd Duncan Lee
• 3^rd Dave Dillon

Mountain Landscape

• 1^st Virginia Castick
• 2^nd Colin Maddison
• 3^rd Duncan Lee

The winning pictures can bee seen in The Gallery

Thanks to everyone who turned up, entered slides and generally helped to make it a most enjoyable meet by all accounts.

28^th April - Birchens Edge - Susan Brooke

Members: Ken Beetham, Sue Brooke, Sabina Cosulich, Linda Crossley, Andrew Croughton, Dave Dillon, John Dobson, Roger Dyke, John Evans, Joe Flynn, Sheena Hendrie, Duncan Lee, Colin Maddison, Lester Payne, Dave Wylie.

Guests: Ian Dobson, Fiona Roy, Roisin Maddison, Anna Neubert

Walked up to the crag to pass Duncan and Sabina on the way down, looking like drowned rats. They claimed to have arrived early and to have got a couple of good routes done before the deluge started? The general consensus was that at least one route had to be done in the pouring rain and then we could beat a hasty retreat to the Whalley Bridge Café, but alas this was not to be, as the weather improved and the rock slowly began to dry. Routes done included Trafalgar Crack, Camperdown Crawl, Captains Bunk and Monument Gully, to name but a few. Whilst dry, it was cold, and by 4 o'clock the hardy soles remaining had had enough, so sadly the meet had to reconvene in the Robin Hood.

18^th-19^th May - Kielder, Wild Camp and Cycle - Virginia Castick

Members Present: Virginia Castick, John Castick

John and I arrived at the Forest Enterprise site at Kielder at teatime on Friday and spent some of the evening in the less than exciting Anglers Arms. At least the food was good and we didn't have to join in the local bingo session in the lounge.

Saturday was not a good outdoors day so we drove some miles across Northumberland to Cragside which is the former home of Lord Armstrong, the great Victorian innovator. This was the first house to have electric lighting powered by hydro-electricity and had other illuminating and novel features.

Arriving back at the campsite around 3pm we made a long and scientific study of the drizzle. By 7pm the drizzle had lessened to level one (no need for a coat when dashing to the bogs). We hastily packed our rucksacks with minimum camping gear and set off for our wild camp on the shores of the lake. The forest management have a wonderful system of designated sites within the forest where they guarantee a level site and adjacent water supply. All you have to do is book a few days before and there is no charge. We arrived at about 9pm and quickly put up our borrowed lightweight tent. After a tasty cup of boiled lake (I forgot the T bags) we settled down to a peaceful night in the most beautiful setting surrounded on three sides by water with a backdrop of forest and flowering gorse nearby.

It was fine when we got up and remained fine - just, until we got back to the main campsite. On the way back we passed the start of a big orienteering event. I have never seen so many pairs of Ron Hills in action in one place before. We had a welcome cup of proper tea then the threatening clouds had us setting off for home after lunch.

For those five of you who said you would come and didn't, you missed a wonderful overnight camp and for the rest of you who didn't think it was worth it, I can heartily recommend the area and its facilities should you be looking for somewhere a bit different to go for the weekend.

Virginia Castick

26^th May - Climbing - Christine Beeston

A Message from Joe Flynn:

Christine,
In case we missed you in the mist today Lester Payne and myself were on the meet. We ignored the forecast and drove out, and began the approach walk, in fine if slightly overcast conditions. The fine soft almost imperceptible precipitation crept upon us as we passed the reservoir. By the time we reached the downfall is was somewhat more perceptible. The stream was running red and at the downfall it was pounding down. Like a 'Lord of the rings' set.

The weather improved on our walk over to Western Buttress so we looked at central gully but traversed off at the halfway ledge and decided it was a good day for a walk. It was dry between 1 and 2.15pm!

Our return took us back to the Downfall. I jumped at the usual place and had the rest of my lunch while Lester walked off up stream in the mist to look for a shallower place to cross. We then visited Kinder Low and the paved path to Kinder Low End. Who carried those 6 X 3 flagstones up to Kinder Low? Wouldn't like to cross him (or her).

Good day out. My new waterproof worked. For which I was grateful as I had left my dry clothes on the stairs at home.

1^st-4^th June BH - NW Scotland (Old Man of Stoer) - Michelle Harvie

Stand in meet leader: Duncan Lee.

Members present: Sabina Cosulich and Duncan Lee.

From the dizzy heights of a possible ten people heading northwards to Stoer the numbers dwindled somewhat on the preceding Thursday evening in the pub. Numerous excuses based around a dodgy weather forecast and the lack of a charismatic meet leader (i.e. Michelle and Mark, the only people with a good reason not to attend) were given. In reality Rob "because I'm worth it" Allen was washing his hair and the rest cited "wanting to do some climbing" and "not sitting in a tent in Scotland in the rain" as the major reason for wimping out! (Ed - at least we climbed the whole BH weekend)

Faced with such an overwhelming wall of enthusiasm Sabina and I abandoned Plan A of a Friday night departure in favour of an early start the following morn in order to avoid the worst of the traffic. This plan worked so well that 1pm saw us stopping for lunch, a sunbathe and a quick two pitch VS classic (King Bee) at Newtonmore before continuing northwards to the nearest campsite to Stoer. A picturesque free beachside site at Clachtoll where a pleasant sea breeze kept the midges at bay. Very civilised!

Early morning rain on the Sunday provided a good excuse for a lie in and then, wonder of wonders, our faith in the weather forecast proved to be well founded for once as the sun came out. Taking this as a good omen we drove up to the light house and strolled along the flower strewn cliff tops to The Old Man, arriving just in time to see another team having an epic on the Tyrolean traverse. Having watched their antics we sent the gear across their rope and both swam! Sabina led this bit and dragged me across as I did my usual controlled drowning doggy paddle flail. A swimming technique that uses a great deal of nervous and physical energy and is highly inefficient.

Having survived the ordeal of water I bared my backside to the assembled tourists laughing on the cliff tops and donned the climbing kit. The first pitch was a veritable slime fest but thankfully things improved with height. The climbing was never too difficult or strenuous but was persistently awkward and extremely exposed with barely adequate protection in the spots where it mattered. A route well deserving of its revised grade of VS 5a! It must have been a real gripper trip for Hard Severe leaders in years gone by. The real gripper trip however comes after the elation of standing on the summit, the abseil descent. A free hanging horror down the middle of the landward face of the stack with the ropes just reaching on the stretch. The one real advantage of this was that you were so far out in space that you were out of range of the projectile fulmar vomit. The return swim was a breeze after the abseil and the midge free evening lazing around drinking wine on the campsite rounded off an excellent little adventure nicely.

Rain on Monday morning saw us decamping to a coffee shop in Ullapool to formulate our next move. After much deliberation we settled on a trip to Torridon and were lucky enough to drive south into clear blue sky and blazing sunshine that resulted in a frenzy of activity at Diabaig where we did three superb routes, Diabaig Pillar (E2 ***), Black Streak (E1***) and Northumberland Wall (E2***) before finally getting back to the car at 10pm. Local knowledge then guided us away from the midge infested hell hole that is the official campsite at Torridon to a gratis vermin free (excluding the author of course) spot on the shores of the loch.

Tuesday's weather was not as kind to us being showery in nature but despite this inconvenience we squeezed in a quick dry ascent of a very pleasant VS (Sword of Gideon) on the excellent sandstone buttresses on the south face of Sgurr A'Chaorachain, getting back to the car just as the heavens opened. We then headed over to Skye to meet up with the team in Glen Brittle, just in time for a heat wave. It's a hard life sometimes!

Thanks to Sabina for turning up to share some fantastic weather in Scotland with me. It is just a shame that no one else did!

9^th June - Yorkshire Limestone - Sheena Hendrie

Members Present: Dave Bone, Sheena Hendrie, Mark Ashley, Al Metelko, Rick Davies

Guests: Paul Daintree, David Collins

This meet did not start well. On the reconnaissance trip the week before Rob Allen and I froze on Attermire Scar and retreated ingloriously having achieved nothing (other than missing England v Sweden). We even suffered Morris Dancers in the town square in Settle as we headed for the pub.

Come Thursday night in the pub, with a wet weather forecast, we changed the meet to Pot Scar, being lower, easier, and not so far to walk.

On the day, it was overcast and threatening rain but not wet enough to call off. So Dave and I headed for Feizor where we met Mark, Paul and David looking pessimistically at a grey crag on the skyline. Apparently it had been tipping down 30 minutes before. Having gone all that way and with 2 guests, we thought we'd better try our best so walked up to the crag and spent the next 40 minutes hanging around convincing ourselves that the rock was getting drier. Mark soloed a Diff, while the rest of us eyed up various VS's and a sole VDiff. In the end we reckoned it was just about dry enough to climb so we geared up to start on the VDiff.

As I was about to start the rain started - I did a slow sprint up the route in order to get a tick, brought Dave up and we then retreated. Paul had started up some easy ground (which had already seen off Mark on a solo outing) but got caught as the rain poured down and took the wise option of retreating.

Rain had clearly stopped play for the day and we headed home. You will note that Al and Rick don't feature in the report so far - Rick phoned when I got home to say they had got as far as Feizor and arrived in time to see me topping out. From under their golf umbrella they wrote a note to say they were moving to Malham - neither Dave nor I saw this note on the windscreen so their attendance gets only half a tick.

Thinking positively, I've added 1 to my 3 previous Yorkshire routes! Thanks to those who came.

22^nd-23^rd June - (NOT) Dow High Camp and Climb, Lakes - Dave Bone

Members present: Dave Bone (leader), Tony Major, Sabina Cosulich and Sheena Hendrie.

Guests: 9 Ostrich and Baby. (the boot was checked before departure!)

This was to have been at Dow Crag in the Lakes, but with the Fridays weekend forecast and the Web cams in the Lakes (good links in www.needlesports.co.uk) showing a grim, dribbly picture, it was a case of "Go South, KMC". With limited prospects of climbing in the Lakes, and to maximise the climbing, but avoid the tedium of yet another weekend in the Peaks, an alternative venue was sought. A quick scan of the memory banks and The Wye Valley, Bristol popped out. A quick look at the Bristol Web cams (and Jam cams!) showed bright conditions and a reasonable forecast prompted a mass email/phone round on the Friday - sorry if you missed out.

An early morning drive South on the Saturday to a rendezvous at Fly Wall, Wintours Leap, was met with 5mins of drizzle and a just averted manslaughter by the female contingent. But perseverance/good salesmanship won the day and a maximum of 10mins of rain hit during the weekend - the sun even shone and non-stop climbing was possible. And the action? The "Swatter" (HVS) swatted Sheena good and proper ("coming down again Sabina!) but eventual success was ensured by the precise gear placement memory of the meet leader. [Take 100 lines, I must not fill my holds with friends!]. Altercations by Team SS with another team in "Swallow's nest" (VS). The "Dragonfly" (HVS) flew away from Sabina, while team (no flies on us) Bone and Major buzzed up "Big Fly Direct" (E1).

The team ate in Chepstow (Note: The Rising Sun Pub wouldn't feed mere climbers and only takes bookings!), and encamped at the "Beeches Campsite". This has a new entrance from the south with its own sign now, just keep driving and driving straight on.

Dawn rose on the African savannah, as grey fluffy objects resolved into a family group of curious Ostrich! The smell of bacon butties brought out the family baby on display and a group portrait or many were taken. Fortunately for the Ostrich, a stout double fence kept them safe from the predatory (I just want a quick cuddle) Sabina.

The team were dragged off down the track to a dry Shorncliffe - sorry no tea/ice cream van supplied, meet leader slipped up again. Some neat teamwork ensured Sheena wept "Bitter Battle tears" (HVS) on the starting overhang, while team Major and Bone laughed all over the crag on "Laughing Cavaliers" (HVS). Team reduced stature needed two legs up to second. A veritable horde descended and the rope cartel swapped routes before heading off for safer areas (falling objects could be heard like a distant artillery range). Team Major and Bone started a new "Renaissance" (E1) while Sheena frothed at the mouth on "Bubble memory" (HVS). Major/Bone left for excellent entertainment of "Motion Pictures" (E1) with the horror movie trailer of the second on the next door VS being dropped to the ground! They thus suffered "Emotional dyslexia" (HVS) and just had to get team B on it. Emotions return when you see what's at the belay, but hurry, it won't be showing for long! But more teamwork by team A was needed to make it 'safe' for the vertically challenged leader (even her slings are dwarf sized). After a good lead, the second had to deal with the cold welded nuts! The happy team departed in glorious evening sunshine, having all had some excellent climbing, which I bet Dow saw little of!

PS: If anyone knows of a petshop stocking young Ostrich, let Duncan know in time for Christmas...

6^th-7^th July - Pembroke - Sheena Hendrie

Members Present: Rick Davies, Al Metelko, Sheena Hendrie, John Evans, Dave Garland, Neville McMillan

Guests: Matt Rhodes

With a dubious weather forecast, it was tempting to move this meet nearer home. However Al outflanked me in the pub on Thursday night and said he was coming, so Pembroke it had to be (which saved me from the wrath of the Committee for changing meet venues!)

Come Saturday morning, Dave, John, Neville and I were searching for the right ab line to get to the foot of Blue Sky at Saddle Head. Al arrived just in time to stop us going well astray, and then provided guiding services to Neville and myself by joining us on the route. Since the tide was coming in, this was probably a good idea since his company took Neville's mind off the possibility of drowning or even just getting wet. Club guest/ alias Victim for the weekend (Matt) joined Rick on Sea Mist while John and Dave kept themselves busy on neighbouring routes.

We then all transferred to Stennis Head (apart from Neville who declared hypothermia was setting in and retired to a nice warm car). Limbo, Bludgeon and Mamzoku were ticked off before Matt and I joined Neville in Ma Weston's for a nice cup of tea. John and Dave tackled Hercules, who/which proved too strong for Dave who took the one fall of the weekend.

Evening entertainment was provided by Rick and assorted helpers erecting a blue and yellow pavilion in the campsite - without planning permission. Al was relegated to sleeping in the porch, but seemed to feel at home there.

On Sunday we were convinced that it was going to pour, so we planned a mass ascent of Ganymede at St Govan's East expecting then to have to retreat. However the weather improved out of all recognition and a good day's climbing ensued. Calisto, Io, First Blood and Rear Wind gave enough variety to keep us all entertained, and the Beach Boy topped up his sun tan as well.

Thanks to those who came.

August Newsletter Index.

Copyright © 2002 Karabiner Mountaineering Club