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October 2002 Meet Reports
26th May - Climbing (Kinder Western Buttress) - Christine Beeston
Members: Dave Wylie, Dave Dillon, Andrew Croughton, Martin Heaton,
Zoe Talks, Al Metelko, Roger Dyke, Christine Beeston. Joe Flynn and
Lester Payne (who actually made it to the crag).
Guests: Jason Davis, Michael Dorrington, Jane Kelly, Mike Radcliffe.
Despite the forecast, 12 rufty-tufty members and guests turned out
for some alpine training. Only Al had sensibly brought an umbrella.
As the rain got heavier, the plan reduced from climbing, to going to
have a look at the crag, to a circular walk, and finally to coming
down again via William Clough and the Sportsman Inn, with
accompanying thunder. At the pub, Roger brightly suggested
Windgather ("Look! The stones on the wall are starting to dry a
bit!), but this plan was apparently rained off too. Still, we all
got some exercise carrying our gear up and down Kinder, and the hot
chocolate in the Sportsman was excellent.
Joe and Lester arrived at the crag later, having taken a different
route, and apparently even tried to climb something, so top marks to
them.
Thanks to everyone who turned out for this soggy meet.
15th/16th June - The Southern Seacliff Odyssey (Part Two) - Rick Davis
Swanage
Saturday gave (as the weather forecast had suggested) some rather
murky weather, rather overcast and looking threatening, so the team
paid a visit to the slightly easier venue of Cattle Troughs where
Bunny's route, Hangover and Isis were shown little respect. The
latter of these routes next became the setting for a classic style
seacliff epic with leader unable to climb on, and belayer unable to
see or hear the leader. In comes the KMC to the rescue!
On Sunday the team awoke to sea mist and general murkyness, which did
not encourage adventure on seacliff's. So decamped the team headed
North to Bristol and the Avon Gorge where Piton Route received some
close inspection.
Just goes to show you that to rather distant venues can be visited in
a summers weekend if you're willing to put a little effort in!
Needless to say that on the said same weekend there were 10 times the
number of club members at the Hut as on the club meet, from which
rumours have circulated that a certain Beach Boy was seen introducing
another (must have been a lemming in a past life) new member to the
delights of Gogarth Seacliff climbing in rough seas and high winds.
The same pair were also witnessed by several (laughing and pointing
wildly) members to climb on Dinas Mot, and enjoy a very long cold
shower, followed by an abseil down a waterfall - needless to say the
same witnesses were also patrons of Pete's Eats whilst much of the
alleged soaking and abseiling took place.
14th July - Peaks Climbing (Burbage North) - Martin Heaton
Members: Rob Allen, Bob Anderson, Kevin Anderson, Rob Clark, Sabina
Cosulich, Linda Crossley, Andrew Croughton (*), Dave Dillon, Roger
Dyke, John Evans, Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie, Martin Heaton, Duncan
Lee, Dave Lygate, Colin Maddison, Craig & Sue Marsden, Al Metelko,
Lester Payne, Chris Thickett (*), Zoë Talks (*), Dave Wylie
Guests: Mark Ashley, Dan Creber, Kathy Gordon, Mick Hawley, Roisin
Maddison, Thomas & Phoebe (*) Marsden, Teresa Parolis & Lynn ?, Ian
Roberts & Pete ?, Fiona Roy, Kate Sparks (*), Chris T's partner ? (*).
I arrived on time with Zoë and Kate to bright sunshine, but no
climbers. I was just settling down to sun-bathing when Roger and
Lester appeared. By the time I had finished Green Crack (VD) there
was a seething mass of KMC-ers in the bay below (in all I counted 37
for the day). There followed what I hope was an enjoyable day for
all, with enough low- to middle-grade routes to satisfy most.
Stylish ascents were made of Hollyash Crack (VS 4b), the classic
Knight's Move (HVS 5a), and entertainment was provided by a number of
attempts on the aptly-named The Grazer (VS 4c), of which Al's and
Colin's (any more ?) were successful.
I was informed that Thomas Marsden (age 8 ?) climbed a severe - good
stuff.
I pathetically failed to make the crux move on Big Chimney Arete (HS
4a) as did Lester, but Roger "Cool-Hand" Dyke saved the day and
successfully led the route, without falling off !
Colin kindly led Hollyash Crack again, so I could bumble up behind
him. I regained some dignity by leading Lie Back, which I believe has
been upgraded to VS - same as the Grazer (hmmm). My dignity was
short-lived, however, as the (outgoing) President solo down-climbed
it.
Thanks to all who came, and also the weather, for making my first
meet as leader so enjoyable.
20th/21st July - Family Meet at Ty Powdyr - Sue Marsden
Members: Craig Marsden, Colin Maddison, Kevin Anderson,
Andrew Croughton, Dave Dillon, Al Metelko, Dave Garland, Sue Brooke,
John Evans, Susan Marsden.
Guests: Thomas Marsden, Phoebe Marsden, Roisin Maddison, Fiona Roy,
Jenny Varley.
What a varied and fun weekend we had! Just wish that I had written
the meet report straight away, as the paper I wrote my notes on has
also been used as shopping list etc.....So I hope that names of
routes are all correct! Saturday looked to be a promising
morning.....Craig, Susan, Colin, Thomas, Phoebe, Roisin all head for
Newborough Warren for walk and play in woods and the beach, but at
the point when we are furthest from the car the rain
started.....swift retreat to the Beacon. Sue had a bracing if rather
wet walk around Llyn Padarn and back up to the hut. Meanwhile Gogarth
was the destination for Kevin, Al, John, Dave, Fiona and Jenny. Cafe
first to plan routes, but dry later for routes at Castell
Helen....Blanco (everybody), Pel (Dave & John, Fiona & Jenny),
Rap-VS** (Fiona & Jenny), True Moments/ Freebird-E1***(Kevin & Al).
Andrew and Dave went along to capture events on film. The evening was
given over to curry, wine, entertaining conversation and wine bottle
opening demonstration.
Sunday was truly a beautiful, sunny day. Little Tryfan provided good
climbing for Thomas, Roisin and Susan. Phoebe achieved first route on
rock! Brief chat with John Sanderson on his way up Tryfan for a solo
walk. Sue went for a walk over the Carneddau in the sunshine. Al,
Kevin, John, Dave, Fiona and Jenny head back to Gogarth.
Only one child actually bitten by horse in field next to hut, the
others ran away!
28th July - Climbing, Nether Tor - Dave Dillion
The Accused: Dave Dillon.
The Charge: Failure to avoid own meet and one count of supplying
adequate advertising material for the meet venue.
Resident Jury: Rob Allen, Kevin Anderson, Mark Ashley, Christine
Beeston, Robert Clark, Andrew Croughton, Roger Dyke, John Evans, Dave
Garland, Martin Heaton, Dave Lygate, Neville McMillan, Al Metelko,
Lester Payne, Alan Peck, James Richardson, Perter Sharpe, Dave Wylie.
Guest Jury: Peter "yes, yes, yes" Barns, John "Better up my target to
E1" Cox, Mick "The Bike" Hawley, Francis "I've never climbed before,
honest" Kundert, Theresa "My arms aren't tired yet" Parolis, Seema
"Oh, just some bouldering" Rahman, Ian "The Commissar" Roberts, Kate
"It's not steep enough" Sparks, Lynn "Oooh, something harder now"
Tomlin.
Case for the Defence:
Nether Tor turned out quite nice really. The rain was held at bay and
the midges stayed in their little houses. The initial cloud cover
cooled the walk up to the crag from Edale. The cloud sunsequently
parted once climbers were established on the rock face, revealing an
all over blueness above. The sunshine remained, into the afternoon
and even later at The Rambler where it seemed appropriate to support
the local economy.
On the fabled route of Flash Wall a great talisman of silver was set
in place, high in the final crack system. Such was it that the sun
shone upon this giant demonifuge and the entire crag basked in the
dual radiance of the golden sun overhead and the new silver sun so
lovingly manoeuvred into place by John E.
The resident safety committee was out testing. Unexplored axioms and
all that. Top of the agenda - Flagellation, how long does it take for
a helmet to fail under the repeated self applied blows of a number
three wire. Next on the agenda - Rope extension, by how much does a
rope remain extended after a climber plummet with a fall facter of
one. (Aside: A fall from the top of the crag to the bottom, with the
faller being arrested just before decking out will generate a fall
factor of one.) Third on the agenda - Shovels, to be brought to small
crags to facilitate holes below routes to generate bigger fall
factors.
Wondrous navigation brought James on an overnight jaunt from the
Barre des Ecrin hut on the Glacier Blanche straight over to Nether
Tor, crampons still jangling in his sack. True gritstone dedication.
An eye opener in the determination department. The guest jury
displayed a united front in scampering up everything in their path.
Forcing a mental rethink in many of the resident KMC rockjocks, lots
of sucked in beer bellies and straightening of backs and clearing of
throats and polishing of nuts and flexing of lard supplemented biceps
and lightening of loads (soloing) and asking for top ropes in mutes
whispers (as opposed to the usual fear unduced roar) and not having a
cup of tea between falls and many other such ploys to enhance their
glamour.
Lunch time saw a lot of sizzling fat (part of the rethink) layed out
under that gorgeous globe. John E., purveyor of quality edible
merchandise, unleashed a batch of succulent flapjack, while luxurious
sun loungers and 'Didsbury style' strawberries, ported in curtsey of
Dave L., added to the bizarre concoction that is Nether Tor, suntrap
of the Western Hemisphere.
Andrew was chartered to record the misdemeanours in the event this
case goes to appeal.
Naming conventions need a revisit. A close shave was narrowly avoided
when two same grade routes with two syllables apiece, a mere two
meters apart, where simultaneously climbed by two Johns, belayed by
two Daves and subsequently seconded by those two Daves. A double
entendre waiting to happen.
Neville and Roger where using a GPS as a crag approach device and
have confirmed that the location of Secret Butress is SK11788752 (to
ten meters). They haven't admitted if they thought Secret Buttress
was in fact Nether Tor, but they did get to Nether Tor via Secret
Buttress, being some of the later arrivals. General Note: Neville is
said to be issuing the next KMC fell race check pointers with GPS
units so they can find the check points. Surely all competitors will
have to use them - so that every one will be adrift by the same
amount.
A surprising number of routes were prodded and probed, with ascents
on Inverted Crack, Don's Mantel, Primitve Route, Nose Climb, Pocket
Wall, Weathered Wall, Two Way Route, Birthday Boy, Rucksac, Three
Step, Pedistal, Free Wall, The Roman Nose, Rejoyce, Flash Wall. To
name some that are in the book. There was one route done on Secret
Buttress, by Roger and Neville.
Closing Speech:
I suspect it was the sun that persuaded every one to turn up, they
must have been out in it the previous day, got sunstroke and a
clouded judgement. However, many thanks, for showing up and toting
all the ironmongery and weaponry to such a high level crag. And
thanks for being so enthusiastic; both in climbing and providing
ropes for others to climb on. Also thanks for drinking beer at the
local pub, without which the sunshine couldn't have been fully
enjoyed.
The Defence rests.
4th August - Lake District Scramble - Martin Heaton
Members: Christine Beeston, Andrew Croughton (*), Martin Heaton, Alan
(Liverpool) Jones, Dave Lygate, Ian McCallum, Lester Payne,
Guests: Ian Roberts & Pete ?
Having successfully palmed this meet onto me, conjuring up some poor
excuse, Zoë lay sleeping peacefully as I dragged myself out of bed
and peered out at a grey, dull sky. I set off northwards, hoping that
no-one would turn up and I could drive back home again to bed.
The further I drove, however, the brighter the sun shone, and by the
time I reached Brotherswater, it was a lovely morning and a small but
enthusiastic group of five awaited.
We walked down Grisedale, admiring the unfolding views and
consequently missing the conventional approach to the scramble. We
had to double back slightly and slog up the slope, allowing Christine
and Dave (whose journey had been delayed) to catch us up. Andy had
continued up Grisedale intending to meet us on the top of Fairfield.
Easy scrambling led straight onto the crest of the ridge, and
gradually increased in interest until we reached the crux, a fifteen
foot wall of about Diff standard. It was a bit greasy in the
conditions and a rope was requested. Lester led up and the rest
followed. An exposed section followed, then easy scrambling took us
to the summit of St.Sunday crag. A lovely scramble, but it seemed
over too soon !
We still had quite a long way to go, and by the time we reached the
top of Fairfield, Andy had long gone. We stopped for a while to
admire the views (arguably the best view point in the Lakes, in my
opinion), before descending the ridge above Hartsop, which seemed
surprisingly long, and headed off right down a steep path which led
straight to the car park. After an extensive search, Andy was found
in one of the Patterdale pubs.
Wednesday 14th August - Tintwistle Knarr(ly) - Fiona Roy
Members: Dave Wylie, Dave Dillon, Dan Braber
It was all going well until the meet leader got half the party lost
the instant they started up the track from the car. Led up folly
paths, up streams and through hedges backwards before finding the
correct path and also Mr Dillon. Who was trying to make his getaway,
saying its 'miles back up to the crag'. It was at this point we
remembered that the organiser who decided on the venue, Tintwistle
Knar, had also made plans to be at least 600 miles away!
Routes done: After the meet leader failed to reach the first hold on
a Severe, there was a mass accent of another route. As the guidebook
was old and vague we meandered up a wall which promised a variety of
'Severes'. Our interpretation produced an amusing - verging on the
absurd - route. Multi-pitch (on grit!) with 40% of the climbing and
the crux on extreme grass and heather. After sending the lightest
person up to test each tuft of grass, Mr Wylie concerned himself with
calculating the structural integrity of the root systems, after 3
people had weighted them?.At least the rock was excellent!
Mr Dillon demonstrated the lost art of hand jamming in extremely
muddy cracks, delving below the thick layer of jungle to cover his
hands in black mud. Mr Wylie assembled a complex system of knotwork,
which wouldn't have looked out of place on the Mary Rose and we had a
pleasant 'ledge party' enjoying splendid views and balmy summer
weather, although slightly perturbed by the apparently temporary
state of the ledge. (see above: structural integrity of root systems)
Mr Metelko would've approved of the style of decent, covering knarly
ground by the light of headtorches.
17th/18th August - Climbing (Duddon Valley) - Robert Clark
Members: Robert Clark, Mark Ashley, Joanne Castick, Lester Payne, Rob
Allen, Dave Dillon, Dave Bone, Chris Williamson, Pete Walker, Alan
'Liverpool' Jones, Jim & Judith Symon, Frank & Margaret Williams,
Sheena Hendrie, Neville McMillan, Sabina Cosulich.
Guests: Jacky & Shane Storbeck, Theresa Parolis, Roger Daley, Rosie,
Steve Bowker
Bright sunshine on Friday afternoon and evening seemed to promise a
good day for Dow Crag on Saturday. However from Turner Hall Campsite
on Saturday morning, it looked cloudy on the tops and there was a
stiff breeze blowing. With the cloud gathering and a warning of rain
from the farmer, most people opted for the lowlevel crag in the
vicinity; WallowBarrow Crag. Eleven of the kmc party took over the
crag and numerous routes were done, with not even one trip to the
teashop !
Routes ascended in various styles; The Leaf, Western Wall,
Malediction, Malediction Direct, The Plumb, Thomas, Digitation,
Agitation, Trinity Slabs, Wall and Corner.
Meanwhile Sheena, Neville, Sabina and Steve had opted for Dow Crag,
approaching from Walna Scar, where they joined the queue with several
other parties - the crag was quite busy. Sab & Steve did Eliminate A
(with a brief but unsuccessful deviation onto Isengard to escape the
crowds). Sheena and Neville did a Murrays Route/Murrays Direct Route
combination followed by Gordon and Craig's Route.
Jim & Judith, who had arrived a couple of days early and been
climbing on Wallowbarrow on Friday, went for a walk up the gorge.
Pete Walker had been for a scramble, and a few other kmc arrived
throughout Saturday.
The Newfield Inn was as usual an excellent venue, for food, beer and
a lock-in if you wanted - although I think most kmc types opted for
the early bed. The rain promised for Saturday arrived around closing
time and lasted until Sunday morning. Some went for walks and others
attempted to find some dry rock to climb on the way home - I think
unsuccessfully. However I had a good time and I hope everyone else
did too. Thanks to everyone for coming on this meet.
31st Aug / 1st Sept - Mysterious Welsh Rock - Al Metelko
Saturday: The Twilight Zone (Eglwyseg Valley).
Present: Sheena Hendrie, Sean Kelly, Rick Davies, Roger Dyke, James
Richardson and myself.
What a superb crag in a superb setting. Lots of routes done ranging
from HS to E2 on some of the best limestone in the country. I
encountered only one foot hold that could be described as polished.
Sunday: Llanymynech and Carreg y Byg (Welsh sounding but alas in
England!).
Present: Dave Dillon Kevin Anderson, Sabina Cosulich, Duncan Lee,
James Richardson. Roger Dyke and myself.
Having visited Llanymynech one evening some 4/5 years ago I've wanted
to get back and do Black Wall (E2) (Duncan/Sabina) Unfortunately
after repeating the fantastic three pitch Blind Faith (VS)
(Dave/James and Kevin/Me) (Roger seemed a little overwhelmed by the
place) the mid-day sun was quite intense on the black rock. I could
see that my enthusiasm for the place was not shared and a decision
was made to move on to Carreg y Byg. This quarry is much smaller in
height and the initial impression was not good being hidden in a
wood, in a hole and the rock surface seemed to be covered in a carpet
of moss and lichen. On finding and climbing, the routes turned out be
well worth seeking out and many where done. It must be mentioned that
Duncan did a fine job of cleaning routes (a must if climbing in
Cheedale) including the top of Concave Wall (E1, 5c) and setting up a
lower off allowing many leads of this fine route. Since at the end of
the day the mobile café Hotel Grün wasn't serving, so a few of us
crossed the border into mysterious Wales in search of a pub and grub
but that's another story.
Thanks to all who came for making the weekend an enjoyable experience.
8th September - Dovestones/Ravenstones Meet - Viginia Castick
Members: Sheena Hendrie, Neville McMillan, Roger Dyke, John Castick,
Virginia Castick, Joanne Castick, Dave Wylie, Frank Williams,
Margaret Williams, Rob Allen, Rob Clarke, Lester Payne, Jim Symon, Al
Metelko, John Evans, James Richardson, Fiona Roy, Martin Heaton,
Dave Dillon, Dave Garland, Rick Davies, Mark Ashley, Duncan Lee,
Sabina Cosulich, Kevin Anderson, Iain Mcallum, Ken Beetham (rumoured
to be in the area and demanding a tick).
Guests: Teresa Paradis, Shane & Jackie, Daniel?, Simon Bastow, Joanne
Hampson, Gill Stephens.
This turned out to be a classic day on gritstone. Sunny conditions
ensured a good turnout and the lack of a car park ticket machine was
an added bonus. No, I didn't take a sledgehammer to it the night
before but obviously somebody had. A 25 minute stroll uphill took us
to the top of Dovestones edge where we sat in the sun and admired the
clear view. The climbs were in the shade but the crag was dry if a
little dirty in places and the rocks were soon plastered with KMC
teams, many visiting the crag for the first time.
I was very impressed with the variety and quality of the routes. My
new guidebook gives stars so making it easier to choose the plums.
By mid-afternoon it was time to stroll across the tops to
Ravenstones. Here there was less choice of routes and the whole crag
seemed more intimidating, partly due to the very steep ground below.
Members of the KMC in the 40's were prominent in developing these
crags and one of Derek Seddon's photos, taken on a typical gritstone
day, is the frontpiece in my 1965 guidebook.
We finished the day by walking down to the overflow tunnel entrance
below the crag. On the way down we were amazed by the damage done to
the streambeds by floods earlier in the summer. Huge amounts of
water must have come down turning the rocks white and shifting
massive quantities of silt and monster boulders. Fortunately the
streams were quiet on Sunday so the planned return through the mile
long tunnel took place. Ten of us went through. A few people
resorted to paddling through whilst others tiptoed along the slippery
edge. It was quite awkward to keep your feet out of the stream in
the middle, but only one of us fell in didn't they, Joanne. Mark
kindly walked round with a rope to help us out as the exit iron
ladder is missing. When Duncan came through we removed the rope but
he had no trouble in climbing the vertical stonework unaided.
Weather, rock, company and shortcut home made for a fantastic day, I
hope you all had as good a time as me.
21st/22nd September - Ty Powdyr, Joint Meet with FRCC - Mark Garrod
Members: Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie, Colin Maddison, Jim
Gregson, Bob Anderson, Al Metelko, Keith Williams, Sandy Gregson,
Duncan Lee, Sabina Cosulich, Dave Bone, Pete Williams, Kevin
Anderson, Joanne Castick, Robert Clark, Rob Allen, Roger Dyke.
Potential members: Gill Stephens, Jo Farrington, Mark Heslop, Ian
Crook, Scott Sadler, Roisin Maddison.
Guests: Dave Kenyon, Paul Whitfield, Alan Wheeler.
What a fine weekend we had! The September drought continued and gave
us some sunshine, and the KMC responded magnificently with a very
widespread coverage of classic routes and locations in North Wales.
I guess Cloggy has to be Top of the Pops simply due to its rarity
value. Scott, Ian and Mark H bivied out under Cloggy on Friday night,
bagged Vember on Saturday, then, given the need for not over-exerting
themselves, retreated to the hut. Sabs, Dunc, Dave B and Dave K also
hit Cloggy on Saturday, with Vember, Curving Crack, Cloggy corner,
and (I'm told) most impressively, Boldest (led by Dave K).
Sandy and Jim did Ridge route on Lliwedd. Bob's Braves (Gill, Joanne,
M&M) braved a mountain day with him, and were rewarded with various
Parson's noses, Gambit route, and a return over Crib Goch.
Team Williams did Amphitheatre Buttress on Friday, and Bryants gully
on Saturday. Tremadoc hosted Robert and Rob both days, and finally, a
normal day was how Al described Gogarth, visited with Kev, Alan, Paul
and Jo.
Not surprisingly, Saturday evening was lively, with an impromptu
slide show so that Dave K could see what Duncan had been doing whilst
belaying him in the Alps.
Sunday continued where Saturday left off, with the majority heading
off to Tremadoc due to the clouds being a bit more threatening. It
was sunny there though! Not sure what everyone else did.
Great fun was had by all - all except the Fell and Rock, who
unfortunately didn't turn up (Bob's KMC for this one) - a real shame,
as we would love to strengthen the links between the clubs at the
grass roots level.
Finally, if anyone left a pair of Zamberlan size 40 brown leather
walking boots at the hut, there not there, I've got them. Also, they
need a dubbin!
5th/6th October - Ty Powdwr Working Meet - Iain McCallum
Members: Bob. Anderson, John Castick, Virginia Castick, Jim.
Gregson, Sandy Gregson, Iain McCallum, Lester Payne, Jim. Taylor,
Chris.Thickett, Alan Wylie.
Guests: David McCallum, Pam. McCallum.
Another successful working party. The weather most agreeable -
beautiful on Friday, awful on Saturday, glorious on Sunday! Ten tons
of gravel and various building materials were delivered on Friday
afternoon. Many of the tasks planned for the hut, paddock and track
were completed. Chris inspected the septic tank.and reported that the
level was down below the overflow pipe. The tank is leaking so the
filter system is not working as it should. This does not constitute a
major problem but the situation needs to be kept under review. Chris
also carried out an inspection underneath the hut and found it dry.
Tasks accomplished :
Elidir Fawr
- Front window recess plastered and painted - Iain and David Curtain
rail installed and and openers fitted to the three trap doors in the
floor - David - Door and frame fitted between Elidir Fawr and Glyder
Fawr - Jim G. and Alan
Crib Goch
- Masonry pointed prior to painting - Jim T. Lester and Sandy
Dorm. Hall
- Skirting board installed - Bob and Chris
Main hall
- Skirting board fitted to two of the walls - Bob and Chris
Gents
- Cubicle walls and doors painted - Iain and Virginia
Ladies
- Cubicle doors painted - Virginia
Paddock
- Bracken strimmed - John.
Track
- Gully at the middle gate reprofiled - Alan, Jim and Sandy G.
Potholes filled, verges repaired and strimmed - John and Lester
Trees
- Trees thinned and new supports fitted to some trees in the paddock
- Iain and David
Cleaning
- Cooking equipment and storage area cleaned - Pam. - Gents washroom
floor and toilets cleaned - Iain
Catering
- Lunch and tea breaks - Pam
Many thanks to everyone for all their hard work over the weekend.
October Newsletter Index.
Copyright © 2002 Karabiner Mountaineering Club
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