Karabiner Mountaineering Club

March 2003 Meet Reports

3^rd November - Local Walk - Mike Graves

If I have missed anybody off the list my apologies, I now have a super - dooper high speed computer, and I forgot to transfer my walk from my old computer!!!

The weather was quite pleasant for the start from the car park at the start of the Longdendale Trail.

We set of at a good pace through Hadfield, and then a new housing estate, which wasn't there three years ago. Passing through Tintwistle we had great water display at the local water works, pity Mr Handel was not with us. At the start of open country, Lorna decided to strip off so we all joined her, it was now shirtsleeve order. In true K.M.C. spirit Lester walked from home to meet us half way up Ogden Clough exactly on time. After our coffee break it was now a slog through the mire, everybody taking their own route to Chew Reservoir where we took our lunch. During the lunch break I noticed a man and two dogs running uphill, I thought this can only be Alan (H) Jones, his first words were [I think that I have the wrong shoes on!] He wasn't even out of breath! As we got near Laddow, Dave and one or two of the hard climbers took Trish to see the famous cave, the rest of us decided a coffee was a better option. The walk continued across Rakes Moss to Lads Leap, and into the rain. We descended to Torside Reservoir and the last mile of the Longdendale Trail. The day finished in the Bulls Head in Tintwisle.

1^st December - Yorkshire Walk - Phil Ramsbottom

Guest: Trish Cranston

This is a story of a nice quiet meet - the chain saws were all left at home so there was just the walk to amuse us.

We left Settle on a dull day but after a short sharp shower in the morning the weather behaved itself, we even had a quick blast of sunshine as we enjoyed lunch at Feizor Gap. After this we followed the top of Pot Scar to Smearsett Scar before dropping down to the river for a very pleasant stroll back to the cars and the cafe.

Nothing happened - but sometimes that is the way it should be.

8^th December - Kettleshulme - Duncan Lee

Guests present: Christine Jones and Dave Swindlehurst.

A slate grey sky and a biting east wind failed to prevent the KMC emerging on mass for a gentle stroll over Taxal Edge and along Fernilee reservoir to the dam which we reached in time for elevenses and a guest appearance from Uncle Ken. The discipline of the ladies was commendable as they formed an orderly queue to hug Ken rather than mobbing him. Finally having dragged Lorna out of Ken's clutches we set off up the hill to White Hall where a small and not very select breakaway group headed directly to the pub in Coombes. The main group then gossiped there way along the edge of Coombes Moss as far as the shooting cabin from which we descended to the warmth of the boozer for lunch. The post liquid refreshment stage of the walk saw the pace of legs slackening but the speed of jaw increasing as the natterathon continued all the way back to Len's.

As per usual Ethel Hallam, Pat Holt and Len had surpassed themselves with the fantastic catering which was enjoyed by everyone, being just what the doctor ordered after such a bracing day out on the hill. Thanks to everyone who turned up and walked or helped with the catering. You all contributed to a most enjoyable meet.

Sun 5^th January - A Classical Stanage Traverse - Al Metelko

What a day! Cold, deep blue sky, loads of sun a few inches of snow, who would have believed that in January!

I turned up in Duncan's van as my car failed to start and at the appointed time no one had turned up at the Popular End. Soon Ian C and Scott drove up, they had been to Hathersage for breakfast after biving in Robin Hood caves. Once Ian R had introduced himself we headed for the other end.

The question on my mind was how could we get everyone up the 14 routes in the order listed. And one idea was to treating it like a single multi-pitch climb, where each route was to be led by a lead climber everyone else seconds the route, the first two seconds set up the next climb and so on.

Proprero's crack was the first route, unfortunately it was almost in perfect winter condition and it would be an hour or two before the sun would come onto it As none of us had axes and crampons, lets face it its Stanage, we sent up our most experienced climber It was soon clear that Duncan was going to get hurt and there we failed at the first hurdle and the rest of the day became a free for all.

I had a go at Doctors Chimney the next route and soon failed blaming a mystery ankle injury which seemed to amuse many, Ian C put me to shame and led it followed by James. By this time the group had got bored and moved on to the next buttress which was in the sun shine, the rock was warm but had an exciting snowy finish. Accusations of deliberately setting off avalanches on to lead climbers ended in a mini enactment of the defence of Helms Deep with both Kevin and James being the main targets of the bombardment of snowballs from up high.

Steadily moving from buttress to buttress but not necessarily climbing we finished on Helfensteins Struggle and what a struggle Ian had! Dropping out of that hole a number of times and discovering how sickly the hot aches can be. By the time I'd followed Helfensteins Variation, most where heading straight to the 15th route for a pint of the best in front of the artificial log burning fire and Kevin's wet socks.

A great day, but the challenge it still there, see me in the pub on Thursdays if you're interested. Below is the list:

Route	Grade
Prospero's Crack	VD
Doctors Chimney	S 4a
October Crack	D
Overhanging Chimney	HVD
Twisting Crack	S 4a
Helfenstein's Struggle	HVD
Paradise Crack	S 4a
Curving Chimney	VD
Devil's Chimney	D
Mississippi Chimney	VD
Amazon Crack	S 4a
Crack and Cave	VD
Leaning Buttress Crack	VD
Black Hawk Traverse Right	D
Crack and Corner	HVD 4b
The Pub	-

11^th/12^th January - Ty Powder - Chris Thickett

Dear Mr Newsletter Person,

re: Snowdonia Winter Sunshine Holidays

I wish to bring to your attention that these holidays have now completed a fifth successful season with the most glorious weather always guaranteed.

Prospective clients need not worry about personal security as the trips are well policed.

This year I myself attended as chief holiday researcher.

On Friday my assistants were Anderson U.B. and Williams K. (Ogwen and Y Garn) and Ramsbottom P. and Gregsons J. and S. (Llanberis and Padarn Park).

For Saturday I had the following additional researchers: Walker P., Hendry S., Casticks J. and V. and McCallum I. Each of these is an expert in his (or her) own field - it's once out on the hills that things go wrong.

The main event was a traverse of the Carnedds from Pen Yr Ole Wen, then over Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Llewelyn, Craig Yr Isfa and Pen Yr Helgi Du. Unfortunately we had to walk as the 4x4's did not turn up. Although the sun was very hot - someone measured a temperature of +2 degress celsius - there was a lot of icy stuff lying around but not much snow. However, no specialist equipment was called into use therefore no specialist techniques were called into question. The wonderful weather brought out many other prospective clients onto the hills. On Llewellyn there were amazing views in a southerly aspect of sun, mountain and cloud on rest of the Snowdonia Range. Photographs will appear in our next brochure if the snaps come out.

On Sunday the assistants were sent to all parts of the Natonal Park whilst some checked the early morning traffic arrangements back to England. Pity the weather wasn't that good on Sunday!

17^th/19^th January - McDougal's Cottage - Al Metelko

It always amazes me how the weather is far from ideal on Scottish weekends. The hut was chosen because of the proximity of Beinn Udlaidh (840m) but with the snowline at around 1000m it looked like it was going to be a Munro bagging weekend.

Saturday: started dry and cloudy, Dave Lygate was the most enthusiastic and persuaded John, Dave and myself to do a South/North traverse of Clach Leathad and Meall a Bhuiridh, starting at Victoria Bridge taking in Stob Ghabhar via the Aonach Eagach. The relatively late start (11am) would ensure that we would finish in the dark. Ian and James decided to have a shorter day and check out the climbing on Ben Dothaidh. This allowed the walkers to have a car parked at either end.

The walk started with milky sun shine but the day became progressively wetter and windier. Summating on a cloudy Stob Ghabhar Dave W. was considering returning to Victoria Bridge to be reunited with his car, warmth and a pub but we persuaded him to continue as we told him we had done most of the climbing and he might as well carry on, I don't think any of us wanted to go back at this point. Compasses where required to find the Bealach Fuar-chathaidh which would take us to the summit slopes of Clach Leathad! We descended and descended and we eventually came out of the clag and saw that we would be descending some more. When we crossed the Bealach Dave W. was quite some way behind and not looking his best. But we had passed the point of no return and after a long slog, Clach Leathad was conquered in the dark with moon light defusing through thick cloud but the rain seemed to have stopped.

The next difficulty was to find the ridge leading up to the final Munro so Dave L. and myself moved on ahead to locate it as Dave had done it before. After regrouping and readying axes we started the ridge the wind increasing all the time. At the low point we where in full storm conditions. Looking back I could see three head torches, but this was not a place to stop and regroup I continued. Further up the ridge the storm had increased a few more notches my hands started to freeze in my wet gloves and I was wondering if the next gust was going to blow me off my feet. The Summit of Meall a Bhuiridh was slightly less windy but here I had to wait and there was nowhere to shelter. Dave L. eventually arrived soon followed by John I must have looked cold as Dave L suggested I continue to the ski lifts, but I felt I had to wait for Dave W. After what felt a long long time he arrived exhausted and very angry (he also had an ice axe) at having been left behind but I knew at this point we where all going to get down and as I was colder then I had ever been quickly headed for the top of the ski lifts. A final regroup and the way down now obvious, 8:30pm saw us all off the hill.

Sunday: started dry and cloudy as one of the first up I had little enthusiasm but once again Dave Lygate suggested a short day on Ben Dothaidh and Beinn Dorain and we were joined by Ian and James, the day turned out to be quite sunny but not on the summits. John and Dave choose to have a quite day at hut wielding a blunt axe chopping what ever they could lay their hands on. And they did just about managed to get the temperature of the hut to above that of the outside.

Sun. 19^th January - Alternative Local (Pennines) Walk - Dave Wylie

Guests: Janice Barber, Trish Cranston, Clive Duerden, Karin Paish, Ben Perry, Cath Perry, Kate Sparks

Post Ambulatory: Jim and Judith Symon, Martin Heaton, Zoe Talks and baby Alex.

I was delighted to find that, despite rather gloomy, damp, morning weather, 23 people had turned out to join me for a stroll round the South Pennines. We set off in intermittent rain and headed up towards the Pennine Way via the "Roman" road (which is probably not Roman at all, more likely to be medieval).

Once up on the tops, there was no shelter from the Westerly winds. We didn't stop for the traditional elevenses - partly due to the later than normal start, but mainly because of the rain which was now pretty constant. Nobody seemed to want to do any climbing in Cow's Mouth quarry when we passed, either! Instead, it was "heads down" as we headed North along the track by the reservoirs.

The weather gradually began to improve as we descended via the Catstones. Lunch was taken at the valley bottom, next to the Rochdale Canal near Walsden. This was the point at which the Perry Clan joined us for the rest of the walk, bringing the total to 26 including baby Ben. Also, as an extra surprise, Jane and Phil Jackson (not KMC members, but know to several of those present) happened to pass us as they were out for a walk along the canal tow-path!

After lunch we headed back uphill, on the other side of the valley. The rain had stopped by now and the sun eventually came out to help dry us all off and warm us up a bit. Using a combination of the Rochdale Way, the Pennine Bridleway and some pathless cross-moorland navigation we managed to get to Shore Fold without losing anybody. The remainder of the walk used paths cunningly chosen to avoid walking through too many streets in Littleborough. There was one main road to cross and a somewhat flooded field to negotiate, then it was under the railway, over the canal and we were almost home.

The group temporarily split up at this point: those needing to get back to their cars headed on to Hollingworth Lake, the rest followed me through the field straight over to my house. The returning car park group were then directed (Thanks to Alan W.!) back through the local streets to join us.

The conclusion of the day's activities were far more strenuous than the walk. It is extremely hard work having a birthday, especially a 40th! Large quantities of tea just had to be drunk, then candles needed to be blown out before the huge amounts of mandatory cake could be eaten.

Many thanks to Christine and Kate for evicting me from my own kitchen and taking over brewing duties. My kettle broke down merely in anticipation of the quantities of water to be boiled (it had worked OK first thing in the morning, honest!) so we had to revert to pans of water on the stove.

We were joined at this point by Zoë, Martin and baby Alex - they had been for a walk along the canal towpath, but not managed to meet up with us. They can have a meet tick anyway! Jim and Judith Symon also came round to join in, but (as they didn't even try to meet us for a walk) they only get half a tick each.

Thanks to everybody who came along - I had a great day. I hope you all enjoyed it as much as I did. Extra thanks for all the cards, cakes and presents. It was so good that I think we should make it a Club rule that all KMC members must have a birthday every year!

Sun 26^th January - Peak District Walk - James Richardson

James' Report

I woke up on Sunday morning in robin hoods cave and peered out into the horizontal rain, this didn't inspire me and thus I made what I consider to be a very sensible decision and snuggled back down into my bivi sack for a bit more sleep.

I awoke again at about 10:15, which wasn't the best start for meeting my meet party at 10.30 at Hathersage station. So I packed up and said goodbye to my fellow cave inmates including Wavy and Al. Then headed down to Hathersage with Ian and Scott and arrived safely at 11 to avoid going for a walk in the driving rain.

At some stage during this I received a phone message from Sheena asking me were I was; so I returned her call to find that my meet involved having a walk along the tops. Currently they were in the vicinity of Millstone.

After breakfast Al, Scott, Ian and myself went to have a look at Horse Shoe Quarry but it was raining there too. After several telephone conferences with Sheena and the rest of "my" meet party, who had also decided retreat was the only option, we all attempted to meet up in Outside.

Anyway, due to my complete failure to attend my own meet here is the meet report from:

Sheena's Report

Roger, Neville and I travelled by shared transport, the rest by train so fulfilling environmentally friendly regime of meet.

Despite good intentions, the weather was not in our favour and we felt obliged to ensure Roisin and Neville were not stressed by adverse conditions. Hence from Hathersage we made it almost as far as Higgar Tor before beating a retreat in teeth of driving wind and rain to reach the sanctuary of Nevisport and Outside. In escaping from the hill, we needed whistles to maintain contact within the group, hence not quite maintaining best KMC traditions of losing people en route. (However since the rest of the meet lost itself maybe we are exonerated?) To the best of our knowledge the local MRT did not feel obliged to respond to our distress calls. We are recommending to the Committee that the Club invest in a border collie to round up errant and wandering members/meet leaders in future.

Roger's Report

I'd just add to that, that it is a serious reflection on the navigational skills and fitness of the rest of the party that Colin made it back to Longlands with Roisin on his shoulders 15 minutes ahead of the rest of us... AND we spent an hour at Outside without Sheena actually buying anything. We did think Sheena might be asked to leave because of the trail of mud following her around the shop, not to mention the poor young man putting 41 litres of poly bags back into a rucksack..... but their Top Ten Spenders have special dispensation.

1^st/2^nd February - Ty Powder Working Meet - Chris Thickett

Guest: Alex Dobson

A very successful meet for both amount of work done and good humour.

The work included painting of walls in the dormitories and hall as well as doors in both toilet blocks. Pipework has been modified under the kitchen sinks so that now BOTH COLD TAPS SUPPLY DRINKING WATER. The doorway between the two ground floor dormitories has been completed.

All fire escape routes were checked and signing has been fixed to direct people along primary FIRE EXITS to a Fire Assembly Point in the field in front of the building. A "life hammer" has been installed in the lounge to provide a secondary emergency exit. A replacement lock has been installed at the second gate. Please report any problems or suggestions with these arrangements to Chris.

There was even a break in the weather to allow some work to the car park wall.

Monitoring of ongoing problems (leak at south gable and septic tank) was carried out and the whole of the building, its equipment and surrounding land was checked for any further problems.

Iain produced a splendid lunch on both days - thanks very much, it was obviously very well appreciated by all the workers. And thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm and hard work.

Sun 16^th February - Lakes ridges walk - Dan Creber

This was an exceptionally clear, dry, bright and crisp day, ideal for a winter's day scramble/walk in the Lakes.

After I arrived, late, we set off at 10.30 from the New Dungeon Ghyll car park, followed the path up to Stickle Tarn, then turned left along to the start of the ascent - the east ridge of Harrison Stickle. Given the numbers and the equipment we had with us, we decided to join the ridge at about a third of the way up by approaching it higher up from the left hand side (thereby missing out the first rock step which is graded 3 and would have required at least 1 belay pitch). This meant that the ridge could be taken directly and on dry rock with holds aplenty, various routes could be taken along the ridge. Ascending higher, more quickly, we soon encountered both snow and ice and scrambling had to be taken with more caution to ensure the friction was sure. Above 600m we entered mist and visibility was reduced. The rock ascent was done surprisingly quickly and one by one we arrived on the summit. Amongst the mist, less than 2 hours from the start, we huddled behind boulders to enjoy our lunch.

From the summit a slightly reduced party headed onwards towards the Pike of Stickle. As we descended the summit the clouds lifted to reveal beautiful views of the surrounding snow clad mountains in front of clear blue winter skies. Feeling slightly "unclimbed" by the east ridge of Harrison the party instinctively scrambled up the Pike, where in milder conditions, another food/drink stop was taken.

With the party reduced further we carried on along the Snake Pass until we reached the aptly map named "Pile of Stones" where we had another er, food break!

It was now about 3pm and the party had dwindled to 7! The excellent weather conditions and dramatic views demanded that we followed the fell south, ascending again, to Rossett Pike. The walk had taken us to a full right angle of Harrisson Stickle and the initial ridge scramble seemed like a distant memory as we gazed across at it.

Now it was after 4pm - surely not another summit. Bow Fell beckoned as we looked up from Rossett. The party now numbered 4 and we arranged to meet the others at the Old Dungeon Ghyll. The view up towards the summit revealed a snow gully (unsure of its name ? answers on a post card?). Never one to shy away from a challenge, David Lygate ascended the 70 degree gully with a single ice axe! The remaining 3 of us took the less direct ascent from the west. The much higher Bow Fell summit (910m) proved to be difficult walking with numerous iced over rocks and hardened snow patches. I, for one, began to regret this new ascent, my gear and rope-laden backpack began to feel heavy and with all 3 of us slipping on ice, the pace started to slow. David could be seen - axe in hand, making far more headway to the summit.

As we all met up at the top, the views began to unfold again as we scrambled above the mist. The northern mountains pointed up out of the clouds. To the west, Scafell Pike was silhouetted against a pink sunset. A full moon hung heavy to the east and bristling winds chased the clouds below us over the southern peaks. Needless to say, cameras were out as we admired the dramatic views.

Daylight was going and we struggled to stay on an ill-defined path along Crinkle Crags as we descended. At approx. 6.30pm it was dark and along with the moon, our head torches helped us with our footing and ice avoidance. Despite this, a few slips did occur which made the walk down more interesting !

The pint of Guinness at the Old Dungeon tasted magnificent as we collapsed down in our chairs and exchanged stories.

Thanks to everyone who took part in this meet!

March Newsletter Index.

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