Karabiner Mountaineering Club

May 2003 Forthcoming Meets

All note the following small print when taking part in meets :-

Sun 27^th April - President's Hotpot, Navigation Inn - Joe Flynn

Hotpot

This year the meal will again be held at The Navigation Inn in Buxsworth (near Chinley) priced at £6 per person. The pub is open all day with the meal being served at 7.30pm. As usual there is a vegetarian option available so let me know your preference when you book. Please book early as I need to let the pub know the final numbers a week before hand.

Anyone who needs a lift or wants to book a meal can generally find me at the pub on most Thursday evenings or can contact me at home.

Slideshow

Time is closing in for entries to this years slide/print competition All entries should be handed to Andrew ASAP before 22^nd April.

As per usual the four categories are:

1. Mountain action
2. Mountain landscape
3. Rock climbing action
4. Human interest.

Please remember that there is a maximum of three pictures per person for each category and that it would help our impartial judge (yet to be announced to avoid bribery or blackmail).

Climbing: Stanage, The northern End

The usual pre-hotpot climbing this year is to be held at the northern end of Stanage. The northern end of Stanage is reached from A57 Sheffield-Manchester road with the parking at the side of the road at SK 232879 via an obvious path running south.

The northern limit of Stanage is clearly marked by a large slab, which has the routes the Ariel and Green Streak running up it, This is where I'm planning to be at about 10.30am and then, hopefully, a great day of beautiful weather and lots of climbing will follow completed by the President's Hotpot and slide show.

Heather Brooke

3^rd/5^th May - Ty-Powder, Birthday Meet - Neville McMillan

Neville McMillan invites his KMC friends to join him at the hut for the May Day weekend, particularly on Saturday, 3rd of May, his birthday. Like Yoko Ono (or maybe not quite like Yoko Ono) I will be 70 this year, and some quiet and dignified celebration of achieving my three score years and ten seems appropriate. Presents are not required, but all younger members will be expected to provide a written and signed promissory note offering to lead me up some route I will find enjoyable. These notes are unlikely to be redeemed on the weekend, since I currently have a shoulder injury from an apparently trivial skiing fall. But I intend to save them up for future use. Older members are exempt from this requirement, but are welcome to supply suitable bottles of liquid with pain-relieving or other therapeutic properties, for entirely medicinal reasons. A modest supply of an appropriate red wine ("Old Git") will be available for those who fulfil the above requirements.

As for the outdoor activities, in the best traditions of the KMC the climbers will do their own thing irrespective of anything the meet leader says, and in any case I probably won't be with them. If the weather is kind, there are lots of scrambling options which I will be encouraging; a circuit of Tryfan, Bristly Ridge, Glyder Fach, and descent by Y Gribin makes a good day out. There are lots of options as we all know. The choices depend on the weather, and the crowds or lack of them.

Please let me know if you are intending to come, and let me have your promissory notes in advance!

10^th/11^th May - Ty-Powder Working Party - Chris Thickett

As everyone enjoyed the February working meet so much, we have arranged to have another.

This time the emphasis will be outside rather than inside the hut. The weather will be just good enough to work but not really good enough to climb so you might as well come on the meet to enjoy the excellent free nosh at lunchtime, excellent free overnight accommodation and excellent good humour.

Work will include repairs to the roof, car park wall and access track - don't worry, wheelbarrows will be provided. Some plaster repairs in one of the dormitories will also be tackled.

Why not work on Saturday, then go climbing on Sunday when the weather will be just that little bit better.

See you there.

Sun 18^th May - Wilton Quarry/Wilton Walk - Mark Ashley/Keith Williams

The Wacky Wilton Climbing

After some naff info from North West Water I thought a may have to change venues, but talking to more experienced club members (thank you) and checking the Lancs rock guidebook, we can climb in Wilton 1 and 4 (not sure where that is).

I intend to be at the 1st VD around 11:00am map ref SD 699134. Wilton is around 6km N of Bolton, up the A675, about 1km after the Wilton Arms pub turn left up Scout road, parking before the sharp bend. Wilton 1 is on the left. As this is a popular place can we please park careful. Wet weather alternative is Keith's walk, mountain biking at Rivington (great barn tourist info centre) or any wall of your choice.

The Wicked Wilton Walk

Although leaving the quarries on to Smithills Moor is convenient, they are poorly located in terms of a return route. I therefore propose that we meet at the San Marino bar restaurant at SD 678154 on the A675. We can use the car park at the back and below the restaurant. From there, go 150m along the road towards Bolton until the wood is reached on the right. Then, head SW up the edge of the wood to the top of Winter Hill. Descend N to Hordern Stoops, over Redmonds Edge to Great Hill. Descend NE to A675, through Tockholes Woods to the Royal Arms pub at SD665215 for lunch (no need to enter if you don't want to).

Take the tourist route to Darwen Tower then follow the Witton Weavers Way SE across Duckshaw Brook to path junction at SD687197. Turn SW here over Brown Lowe to meet the WWW again above Green Lowe. From here, head S to Hanging Stones then SSW to path junction above Higher Pasture House. (This section has no path and is a bit Scottish under foot.) Follow farm track towards Belmont turning L along the road until opposite Higher Whittaker. Take the track SW to the Egerton road at SD 680158. L up this road for 25m then R downhill to Ornamental Reservoir. Cross the long footbridge then climb up towards Greenhill Farm, bearing R just before the farm back to San Marino.

Meet at the restaurant at 9.30am. Distance: approx.18km (12 miles) depending on your route-finding or inclination. Best map: Explorer 287. Best compass: one that you know how to use in the mist over Hanging Stones.

24^th/26^th May - Ty-Powder Curry/Cloggy Climbing - John Evans/Duncan Lee

Curry

Ok folks, the title of this meet is fairly self-explanatory... The plan, such as it is will involve (weather permitting) a goodly amount of climbing on the big crag on the north side of Snowdon visible from the track near the hut. A flick through one of the relevant guidebooks will give an impression of the scale, number and quality of routes available on the cliff; suffice it to say that there's plenty to go at!

On Saturday night I (and any number of glamourous helpers) will be cooking a quantity of food with the general theme of curry. I shall be attempting poppadoms, onion bhajis, several vegetarian dishes, rice and nan breads. Obviously the quantity is dependent on the numbers partaking, I'll be asking for maybe three pounds towards the cost of the meal.

Duncan is planning to bivvy up at the base of the cliff on Sunday night, hopefully the worst of the effects of the Madras will have worn off by then. With luck this will allow a long day without the chore of the walk-in from Llanberis. Any queries (or reservations) to myself of Duncan will be welcome. Anyone willing or able to assist with preparation or cooking would be most helpful.

Clogwyn Du'r Arddu

The plan for the Cloggy campaign is for a two-day assault on the Sunday and Monday with a bivouac/camp, below the crag on the Sunday night to add to the enjoyment of the experience of climbing on this wonderful crag. There are routes from V.Diff upwards but the quality only really starts at the dreaded grade of Hard Severe with "Slab climb right hand "(Far west buttress) and "Direct finish to the east buttress" (The Pinnacle), both two stars. A selection of the crags three star classics such as Longland's climb (VS), Pigott's Climb (VS), Curving Crack (VS), Llithrig (HVS), The Corner (HVS), Octo (HVS), The Boulder (E1), White Slab (E1), Shrike (E1), Jellyroll (E2), Silhouette (E2), November (E3), West Buttress Eliminate (E3) and Great Wall (E4) should be enough to keep people happy as long as the weather cooperates. Even if the weather fails to play the game I plan to visit the crag

31^st May/1^st June - Blackrock Cottage, Glencoe - Sheena Hendrie

This meet has been arranged so that we avoid the Scottish midge, we get the one good weather spell of a Scottish summer, and people can go on to Skye afterwards. I've booked Blackrock Cottage which I am told has "atmosphere" and is certainly in a great location at the head of Glencoe. I've booked the entire hut (10 places) with bed night fees yet to be confirmed.

Options for the weekend are numerous - Munro bagging, climbing on the Buchaille, Etive Slabs, Glencoe, Polldubh etc. Michelle can go swimming and I can go the north face of Nevisport after climbing on the Buchaille. (If anyone wants to lead a walk, please let me know - if its not climbing weather I have my sights set on the Aonach Eagach.) So please support your Scottish mafia and head north. I am taking bookings now on a first come first served basis. People making up their minds at the last minute should be able to camp locally (camp sites at the head of Glen Coe and in Invercoe).

31^st May/7^th June - Isle of Skye (Hut) - Dave Wylie

Once again, space in the superb Glenbrittle Hut has been booked for the KMC for a week in June. This meet has actually been an annual event for many years, though it doesn't always appear as an "official" meet in the KMC list. This is the second time that I have organised things, though it is about the tenth consecutive year I've gone along!

The Hut is superbly situated below the Black Cuillin ridge, ideal for climbers wanting to get up into Coire Lagan for the superb routes on Sron na Ciche. An almost infinite choice of walks and scrambles also await, not only on the "main ridge" itself but on the subsidiary ridges and in the coires.

Further afield on the Isle there are other groups of hills (e.g. the Red Cuillin, Macleod's Tables, the Trotternish Ridge) plus many wonderful places to visit for shorter (or longer!) walks, sea cliff climbing, wildlife watching, tea shops, pubs...

Highlights I recall from trips in previous years include:

• Many days up on the Cuillin Ridge
  (but the whole ridge in one go, yet!)
• Elgol to Glenbrittle via the Dubh Slabs
• Cioch Direct in Big Boots(!)
• Glenbrittle to Sligachan via the coast and Coruisk
• The Quiraing (several times, in all weathers)
• Allegedly "easy" coastal walks
• Tony Gask's "Boat Bread"
• Vegetable Charades (don't ask)

Please let me know if you are interested in coming along. Any spaces left in the hut will be handed out on a strictly first cash first served basis! The cost is £21 for the week (the price went up this year to, shock horror, three pounds per person per night!). Travel up on Saturday May 31st (or perhaps go on Sheena's Glencoe meet first and then join us late on the Sunday for the rest of the week). The hut is booked through to the Friday night so we head back home on the following Saturday.

I'm also interested to know if anybody would like to come along around the same time NEXT year, so I can decide whether to book the hut again in 2004 (this has to be done nearly 12 months in advance to have a chance of getting spaces).

Call me, e-mail me or see me at the Pub on a Thursday evening.

7^th/8^th June Southern Sea Cliffs (part 1) - Rick Davies

Owing to some pretty strict bird restrictions along much of Devon's Sea cliffs I have opted for some of the slightly better known sea cliffs of South Wales. All those who had been looking forward to some hardcore Devon cream teas and sea cliff adventures fear not though, as I have every intention of running the meet at a later point in the year during 2004.

Assuming I can prise my guidebook back from the sweaty paws of a certain young bendcrete employee (and that there's no bird bans) then the meet will take place in true South Wales - on some truly terrifying sea cliffs! If I am once again hit by bird bans then we will wander into South West Wales. But don't panic - abseil approaches and empty crags will be 'de rigour' for this meet (as with most of my meets).

So as promised, no bank holiday traffic to get stuck in, crowd free crags and the rock will be bathed in glorious sunshine - so need any more reasons to be on the next southern sea cliffs meet?

13^th/15^th June - Ty-Powder - Dave Dillon

June is going to be so dry that every route near the hut will be climbable. There is an intriguing bus service from Llanberis to Pen y Pass, recently tested out for a sortie on the Glyders side of the pass, traversing back to the hut. The service could be used to check out the Snowdon side. Such as - amble over to Lliwedd, bag a few routes, wander off to du'r Arddu or Ddysgl or Cyrn Las, exercise a little more, meander back to the hut for a cup of tea, watch the sun rise. etc. etc.

The weekend is one for dubiously great plans set in stupendous surroundings accompanied by glorious weather, washed down with some tea and biscuits.

Cheers, Dave.

(P.S. You can sort out all the routes you want to do, in advance, by attending the Curry meet in May)

21^st/22^nd June - Thirlmere Camping - Midge Castick

This is a camping meet at Bridge End Farm G.R.314193 at the head of Thirlmere. It's so long since I've stayed on it I have no idea what the facilities are like. This doesn't matter anyway as the climbing is so good. A mere15 mins stroll from the campsite is Castle Rock. The north crag has classics like Overhanging Bastion, Thirlmere Eliminate and Harlot Face. The sunnier south crag has routes of all grades and mostly good quality. On the hillside opposite also close to the campsite, is Raven Crag. This is more intimidating but has some classic routes such as Communist Convert at VS

If you don't fancy climbing, there is a brilliant if committing scramble which starts at the roadside. You'll need a rope and dry weather.

There is plenty of good walking close by but avoid the ridge between Thirlmere and Borrowdale, it is very boggy. If you're into botany there are sundews amongst the quagmire.

Last but not least, the pub at Thirlspot is less than a mile away. It serves meals and no doubt beer as well.

Sun 29^th June - Climbing in the Peak - Sue Brooke

I have been unsuccessfully racking my brain for a different family friendly crag, but due to a lack of imagination the meet will once again be at Birchens.

The advantage of the location is that it is pretty well child safe and there might be something on the crag that the meet leader can climb. I will be arriving at around 11.00 am and look forward to seeing you all there.

May Newsletter Index.

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