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July 2003 Other Articles
A Cracking Climb - Lee Wood
There must be a moral in this story!
So there I was ... back on the Cromlech, a historic re-visit after so
much time apart. One day with Kevin leading HVS at Stanage, two days
with Mark climbing up to E2 on Stanage again, & then I'm off to N
Wales to keep company with my sister & family.
Must be someone to climb with here ? Of course, Hannah & Gareth need
a day out, so I coaxed them up two Severes; 'Chimney climb' on the
Bochlwyd, & 'Zig Zag climb' on the Gribin facet, all character
building stuff.
Now what? Aha, along comes nephew Ross, one of Rona's 1st brood. A
great strapping lad, now 21, & well in need of a stiff grade to
inspire. Ivy Sepulchre should sort him out!
So, off we went finally, on the Saturday of Easter wkd, to find a
parking place in the Pass; theres always a niche for a wee Polo.
Rather more cloud than sun & a vicious wind whipping spray off the
stream as we ascended. But I am optomistic; this weather will keep
the hordes away & we might even get a chance to do The Corner as well.
I couldn't remember the lead in to the route proper, a scramble not
too serious I think. Better get the ropes on anyway, Ross will need
them even if I don't. Then we're onto the corner proper. More cloud &
less sun now compounds with the howling wind to numb fingers & hamper
communication.
But what I do remember about this climb is that it is bloody good
value at the crux, especially if you don't do it right! So I
explained this well to Ross ... " keep on bridging as high as
possible, then do a quick layback ...". He seems to understand, &
he's well brave enough for the task. Off I go, taming the steep walls
by bridging when there are no jugs to haul on.
I was soon up to the crux with its familiar crack for ample
protection, soon fixed. But how exactly to ascend now, was the
layback to the L or the R? I bridged up to the impasse, then realised
that there were a few jams to sink. Maybe another way to do this?
Yeh, throw a foot jam in that off width & give it a go.
Well, I got into position, not too secure but not painful or awkward,
& was just hanging there speculating on the way out, when I heard &
felt a CRACK! My leg shifted through some degrees L; what the hell?
Perhaps I've dislodged a rock or such? No, I didn't see anything
fall, & I'm wary now. Lower off to the ledge, at least I have decent
gear up there.
Down on the ledge inspection shows little, but unusual flexibility &
a growing discomfort tell me the worst, something broke back up
there... What to do now? I've been promising Ross this climb for
years & disaster strikes, SHIT! A few moments trial prove that I can
stand a layback. This may not be sensible, but here goes!
I can't say I really enjoyed the rest of the climb, fighting the
added insecurity of a dodgy ankle. Nor take much pleasure from
holding Ross when he fell off the crux. He came up eventually with
teeth chattering. Then we abbed down R wall.
The walk down the screes was tedious (call a rescue? no way!) but
Ross took the heavy sac, then drove the car home. So we returned with
our story & added experience. Which just leaves me to limp around for
a few weeks now, & get v unfit. I had just recovered from a hip
twinge, but running is out now also.
So take my advice, don't bother with jammimg on Ivy Sep', it gives in
nicely to a quick layback. Accept the vulnerability of the aging
human frame... and respect for that grade HVS 5b!
Lee
July Newsletter Index.
Copyright © 2003 Karabiner Mountaineering Club
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