Karabiner Mountaineering Club

July 2003 Forthcoming Meets

All note the following small print when taking part in meets :-

5^th/6^th July - Lake District, Langdale - Colin Maddison

I plan to camp at Chapel Stile (Grid Ref: 315054), thus giving us easy access to many fine crags and fells around Langdale, but also leaving us well placed for those that might wish to stray off to other parts of the Lakes.

There is no fixed agenda, but this is a meet for climbers and walkers. Crags like Whitegill, Pavey Ark, Gimmer, Bowfell Buttress and Ravens Crag all sport classic routes across the grades. Scout Crag should be ideal for stringing up the little ones (sorry, taking the children climbing).

Walkers will also find plenty of options. The energetic might try the Langdale watershed - Chapel Stile, Silver Howe, Blea Rigg, High Raise, Pavey Ark, Langdale Pikes, Rossett Pike, Bow Fell, Crinkle Crags, Cold Pike, Pike of Blisco, Lingmoor Fell, Chapel Stile - or t'other way round.

So loads of scope for all persuasions. There are plenty of B&Bs, Youth Hostels, caravans, etc. around if you don't like camping.

Sun 13^th July - Scrambling Meet - Martin Heaton

Scramble: Ill Crags South East Ridge (Grade 3 ***), Eskdale.

This will be a long day, but well worth it in my opinion. It's a fairly long drive, either via Ambleside or the Duddon Valley, but with the benefit of relative solitude.

Meet at the telephone box in Brotherilkeld, just over the Hardknott Pass, for a 10:00 start (GR 212012). A long and beautiful walk up Eskdale leads to Great Moss, which is surrounded by the Scafells and the Bowfell range. Ill Crags is to the right of Scafell Pike, and it's possible to link up a lot of clean rock for 1300 feet, with a particularly fine slab in the middle. There are possibilities for roped climbing towards the top, if you can be bothered lugging the gear !

From the top, it is a short slog up to Scafell Pike, and if time permits, we could also carry on to Scafell via Broad Stand, and then back down the ridge to the cars (or the pub).

Walkers are also welcome as all the scrambling can be bypassed!

I hope to be at the pub on the Thursday before the meet, or you can contact me at home to discuss details, car sharing etc.

19^th/20^th July - Ty-Powder Family Meet - Sue Marsden

I could be wrong here but I think Sue is organising a kinder(kletter)garten.

Sun 27^th July - Curbar Climbing - Sheena Hendrie

Having been to Curbar once in my entire climbing career, I am extremely well qualified to lead this meet???? The only plan to date is to set up base camp in the Avalanche Wall area (PMC 1) from about 10:30 onwards. Entertainment may (or may not) be provided by KMC members trying The Peapod - I'm suspending judgement on whether that will include me until I've seen it in the flesh.

Walkers could stroll past to enjoy the fun and get a tick, those climbers escaping to Froggatt will not qualify for attendance at the meet unless they grab a Curbar route on the way.

Hope to see you there.

2^nd/3^rd August - Lakes climbing - John Evans

Ok folks, another chance (hopefully) to explore some of the classic climbing on the Lakeland crags. After last year's campsite debacle, I've opted for the Fisherground Farm campsite near Eskdale Green, there was plenty of room and offered a fairly useful location (one day I'll actually come here on the train!). The grid ref. is 154003. The plan is to get high up in Wasdale or Eskdale for some mountain routes, although places such as Buckbarrow might also be useful. For non-climbers (or those stymied by the dreaded Lake District weather) there are very good and relatively quiet fell-walks close at hand.

More detailed plans will become clear nearer (very near, I expect!) the time of the meet, and hopefully a healthy condition will materialise to enjoy some sun-warmed rock or scramble somewhere in the mist!

9^th/10^th August - Cader Idris Camping - Michelle Harvie, Mark Garrod

Yes, there is life between Tremadoc and Pembroke. Cader Idris is a great area for climbing, with such attractions as Obsession (VS ***), put up by our own Bowden Black in the 50's. Cycling, walking, swimming and lazy bird-spotting (catch the Bengali Eagle Owl at the Gwernan Lake Hotel, the local pub) are also catered for.

Seeing as how it's summer, it is a camping meet. The campsite is at Ty-Nant, which is at grid ref. 698152. Take the back road to the north of Cader Idris from Dolgellau, toward Gregennan Lakes and Gwernan Lake. Pass the latter, plus the aforementioned hotel, which does meals, and after about ½ mile, pass a car park on the right, Go over a bridge, then look for signs to Ty Nant on the left. Campsite has showers and toilets, and charges £5 per tent with one car allowed per tent on field. NOTE: This is not the same campsite as used in 2000, for those who remember that meet.

Michelle may or may not be available to lead this meet, so please contact Mark Garrod in the first instance.

Sat 16^th August - Matlock Climbing - Fiona Roy

Black Rocks SK 294557

Roundness and thuggery they say?. Also plenty of low grade classics, bouldering and scrambling. I am proof that you can get lost scrambling on the black rocks.

If I can drag my old bones up to the crag I'll see you around Birch Tree Wall at 10.30-ish. Otherwise you will find me loitering around the ice-cream van at the car park, my shout. I will have on me a new Grit West book of hints and hopefully all the scary routes will have been upgraded.

If anyone wants directions or a lift phone me or let me know at the pub and I will put my lift begging skills to use.

When we have eaten the ice cream van dry and/or have run out of skin and strength we are all invited for tea/lemonade and cakes at High Tor 'Hotel', (On the A6 in Matlock Bath, park at or near the train station)

Sun 17^th August - Froggatt Climbing - Heather Brooke

Froggatt

I'll be at the Tody's Wall area from about 10.30am, depending on the weather, and hope that some of the KMC members will meet me for a spot of climbing and lots of socializing.

30^th/31^st August - Galloway Climbing - Dave Bone

The Prime target for this weekend is the "Dungeon of Buchan" in the Galloway hills. Grid Ref 462-848 on map OS77. Guidebook is the SMC "Lowland Outcrops" - never fear, photocopies will be available.It's been on the hit list for some time? To quote, "Three excellent SE facing crags of sound clean granite set in splendid isolation above the twin Lochs of the Dungeon". Only developed in 1991, routes are 35 or 130m long with a smattering of stars. Routes: VD (1), HS (1), VS (4), HVS (3), E1 (7), E2 (2), E3 (2). Other crag possibilities exist. I can vouch for the quality of the hill walking in this exceedingly rough country, having been this way on a round of the 3 Corbetts hereabouts in the late 80's. The area abounds in facinating names: "Curlywee, Rig of the Jarkness, Mid Lump, Lump of the Eglin?" Sport climbers need not apply - one disadvantage is it's not a roadside crag, but there is an advantage - it's not a roadside crag! The base will be a bothy but a backup tent or two could be advised, not knowing how occupied it will be.

A plan is, drive up the M6/M74 start on the Friday evening (hopefully taking an early afternoon off work to allow an arrival in the light) in as few cars as possible. Take the A75 past Dumfries, turn off onto the A712 on Crocketford, through New Galloway, turn off N just past Clatteringshaws Loch, on the dead end road to park at road's end just before Craigencallie House (GR503-779). Estimated time 4hours. Start walking on Forest roads (flat after the early 50m ascent). Those with Bikes could usefully employ them here but will be carrying more than their fair share of the load! It's ~4.5miles to the Backhill of Bush bothy at GR480-843, or longer if you take the wrong turning! Next day, skirt the edge of the forest around the Silver Flowe and climb (Crag is 1.5miles from the bothy). A look at the map will show one contour in 500m in the Flowe, which will tell you it's a bog! An SSSI to be exact. It will also indicate an essential item of kit is a large container of the most powerful insect repellant available, and pray for wind! Remember, the midges are protected here! On Sunday, anyone with unfinished routes can return to the Dungeon. An alternative for those leaving early is to climb a route or two on Craigencallie crag, which is only 10mins or so from the cars. The last item of kit should be anti-caravan missiles for the return home on the A75, which can be slower than you think.

Hope to see a good selection of adventurous souls fed up with the Peak. The bothy would be a good base for a walk too. Poor weather alternatives may include the Galloway sea cliffs. Check in the week before or see me at the Pub for revised plans just before, once there are indications of the weather prospects. Pick up a map/guide copy too. We don't want KMC members lost in the vast Galloway forests!

6^th/7^th September - Scotland Climb/Camp - James Richardson

I am planning to have a meet on the Isle of Arran on this weekend. I would like to know what the potential interest in attending this meet is likely to be to enable me to sort out transportation. Please let me know if you would be interested in attending this meet.

Thanks...

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