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Karabiner Mountaineering Club

September 2003 Meet Reports


Sun 27th April - President's Hotpot, Navigation Inn - Joe Flynn

Stanage End - Heather Brooke

Members present: Sheena Hendrie, Dave Bone, Duncan Lee, Sabina Cosulich, Fiona Roy, James Richardson, Scott Sadler, Royer Dyke, Alan (Liverpool) Jones, Lester Payne, Martin Heaton, Joe Flynn, Dave Dillon, Mark Ashley, Rick Davies.

Guests: Daniel O'Brien, Mark Binham, Zoe Heaton and Baby Alex, Martin Wilcox, Trish Cranston, Rob Embry, Anna Neubert, Ricks friend

The weather wasn't brilliant and with a gusting wind, only the occasional gap in the drizzle allowed climbing to be done. However, still a large group of KMC members came out to play and climbing was done at both Stanage End and High Neb as the weather improved during the day. The best weather was reserved for the walk back to the cars and the journey over to the Whalley Bridge café and then to the Hotpot.


7th / 8th June Southern Sea Cliffs (part 1) - Rick Davies

Southern Sea cliffs meet part 1 - Pembroke: The Mark squared meet!

Present: Rick Davies, Mark Galligan, Mark Binham

With a rather mixed weather report and little coaxing I managed to talk two willing victims into making the journey down to South Wales. As weather reports were rather mixed, and I quite like travelling to venues early in the morning, we decided that a dawn raid was in order, so the team hit the crags at about 11.00am.

On the Saturday we arrived to wall to wall sunshine and quickly had to change into shorts and vests to fit in with our new climate, owing to a rather naff high tide time we decided that the best course of action would be to visit Stennis head and partake in some of the delights on offer their. So whilst frying in the sunshine Mark G. made an ascent of Limbo (VS 4c), Mark B. then took up the gauntlet and fired himself up Cool for cats (E1 5b) followed by ascents of C++ (HVS 5a) and Hercules (HVS 5a) by myself. Perhaps it was the exciting "proper" sea cliff climb nature of the former of these but both energy and enthusiasm from the rest of the team seemed to have vanished by this stage, and after a short sunbathe it was agreed (as nobody else wanted to climb!) that the team should retire to the comfort of the St. Govan's arms back in Bosherston.

We awoke on Sunday morning rather fuzzy headedly to an unwelcome sound, rain coming down hard on the outside of the tent, fortunately it was only early so an hour or sos dozing soon saw it pass. By breakfast the sky's still hadn't cleared, although as ever I was eager to climb and felt that we could at least sneak one or two routes in! Driven on (perhaps maddeningly) by my inextinguishable enthusiasm we made the short walk to St. Govan's where Mark G. decided that the sunburn he had received the previous day was far to painful for him to climb, leaving myself and Mark B. left to climb. At this we made the ab. in and I took on Army Dreamers (HVS 5a), during which a rather heavy shower decided to pay a visit to make things a little more interesting! Following a short break and a warm at Ye Olde Worlde Tea Room both my self and Mark B. were fired on by the sight of a patch of blue sky, so we ventured down into St. Govan's again were Mark lead Front line (HVS 5a) and The loosener (HVS 5a) before the threat of more rain sent us on our way home.

All in all a good weekend so where were you all? Come on KMC ers, isn't it time that you got out of the boring rut of "oh well the forecast isn't brilliant so I'll just go to the peak district" - live a little, the weather is rarely as bad as those pessimistic weather men on our TV's make it out to be.


13th / 15th June - Ty-Powder - Dave Dillon

Present : Al Metelko, Anna Neubert, Dave Wittingham, James Richardson, Lester Payne, Ian McCallum, Keith Williams, Roger Dyke, Carl Dwyer, Jenny Varley, Ian Crook, Mike Reading, Kevin Anderson, Jo Farrington, Tony Major, Dave Bone, Sheena Hendrie, Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvey, Jim & Judith Symon, Sabina Cosulich, Duncan Lee, Rob Allen, Dave Dillon.

Various antics : Al and Anna on Carreg Altrem (friday). Dave Wittering and James on Amphitheatre Butter Arse. Lester was in the turning spot and on the Grokan. Ian Mc and Keith on Cader Idris watching a race. Roger, Jenny, Kevin on the Grokan. Al and Jo on Longlands (Cloggy). Rob and Sheena on Shadow Wall and Lion. Dave D and Carl on Slab Climb (Cloggy). Ian C, Anna & Mike on Curving Crack (Cloggy). Dave Bone and Tony on The Grooves and The Groove (Cyrn Las and Lect Ddu). Mark and Michelle Idwal, Tryfan and Roscolyn with Jim and Judith. Duncan and Sabina on Wen and the Groove (Lect Ddu).

Anna, Ian & Mike Canoeing.

In short: The weather held out for the weekend, Cloggy was dry, so Cloggy dwellers were late back on the Saturday evening. No one thought to call for a helicopter, which was lucky as it was already out there picking up some other dudes. Plenty of action on both days, with some members leaving the hut before 10:00am. Cheers for being there.


21st / 22nd June - Thirlmere Camping - Midge Castick

Members: John Castick, Virginia Castick, Joanne Castick, Frank Williams, Margaret Williams, Al Metelko, Lester Payne, Graham Harkness, Sue Harkness, Jim Gregson, Sandy Gregson, Jenny Varley.

Guests: Fay Castick, Catherine de Lisle, Martin Simpson, Carl Dwyer.

We arrived at the campsite early on Friday evening to discover all the midges from Scotland were holidaying in the Lake District. After untangling the tent we beat a hasty retreat to the pub. On Saturday the walking party set off for Mungrisdale for a walk along Sharp Edge to Blencathra and Bowscale Tarn. The start of this walk gave me the opportunity to complete my final Wainwright'. There are 214 hills listed in Wainwright's unique guides and Souther Fell was my last one. After cracking open a bottle of excellent champagne I celebrated by standing on my head. Fay carried my rucksack for the rest of the day in preparation for the West Highland Way a few days later. The rest of the walk was most enjoyable ending with a swim in the tarn and a pint of shandy at the pub.

Meanwhile back near the campsite Al's climbing team had a good day out on Castle Rock doing several classic routes including Overhanging Bastion. Jenny went for a big walk on Great Gable, the things people do to avoid the midges. Everyone resorted to the pub to eat as Scotland's secret weapon were in full swing.

Sunday's weather looked more threatening than Saturday but stayed fine if a little hot and muggy. The champagne guzzlers set off for Watendlath where John and Fay were waiting with another bottle, this time to celebrate Lester's birthday. Fay was nursing bruised shoulders from carrying my bottle laden pack the day before.

Jim and Sandy went up Blencathra, maybe to retrieve the champagne cork lost the day before. Al and Jenny went climbing on Castle Rock and later reported another good day. Thanks to all who came. I had a brilliant time but next time I camp it won't be in the midge season.


Sun 27th July - Curbar Climbing - Sheena Hendrie

Members Present: Fiona Roy, Sheena Hendrie, Roger Dyke, Dave Bone, Dave Dillon, Andrew Croughton, Paul Evans, Rob Allen, Al Metelko, Ken Beetham, Dave Wylie, Joe Flynn, Christine Beeston, Scott Sadler, Trish Cranston, Lester Payne, Jenny Varley, Mark Ashley, Iain McCallum

Guests: Roger Daley, Martin Simpson, Barney King, Mark Binham, Steve Chesulet, Kate Sparks, Tom Howard, Jo Farrington, Dave Moon, Pam McCallum, Helen Dowd, Elena?

Rarely has a meet gone so perfectly to plan. We all expected quality suffering from Curbar& and we got it! I've never seen so many routes with climbers hanging and dangling, swearing, and generally being repulsed.

The day started well with my navigator (Dave B) arriving at the car park in time to ensure the meet leader managed to find the rendezvous point at Avalanche Wall. Having found it, he decided the meet leader had better climb it, which started the hanging and dangling tone of the rest of the day. I have the horrible feeling the meet photographer (Andy C) recorded the event before escaping off to Froggatt.

Ken Beetham spectated - nice to see him out on a meet - while assorted KMC and guests came and went. Paul Evans warmed the two Rogers up on Owl's Arete before making them suffer (lots more hanging and dangling) on Maupassant, a thuggish layback of a HVS. They quit his company and retreated thereafter to find more accommodating V Diffs. Dave B suffered from Insanity, and then insisted that I follow suit (H&D therapy helped towards recovery). Avalanche Wall proved an introduction to the crag for a few teams, Jo led CMC 1, and Dave Wylie disappeared towards Frogatt and was never seen again.

Highlights of the afternoon included Joe having afternoon tea on a ledge in fine Presidential style, but failing to complete Polar Crack??? despite "constructive" advice from Lester and Mark and offer of combined tactics from Rob. Dave Bone's Suspect Intellect was further tested, Rob in a Pod provided fine photos, more H&D, but ultimately required leadership from Paul Evans, and Scott apparently romped up the Peapod but has vowed never to do it again in his life. Fiona put in a guest appearance in the car park, Iain and Pam were sighted somewhere along the top of the crag, Roger Dyke stripped in front of a Spanish lady but got permission first, and assorted teams reappeared from the far reaches of the crag (swearing they had never been near Froggatt all day).

Curbar lived up to its hard reputation but most people seemed to enjoy themselves and have agreed to a repeat - in 10 years time when collective memories have faded. Thanks to all who came.


9th / 10th August - Cader Idris Camping - Michelle Harvie

Mark Garrod

Members Attending: Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie, Iain McCallum, Jim Gregson, Christine Beeston, Al Metelko, Dave Wylie, Sandy Gregson, Lorna Marsland, Alan (L) Jones, Dave Bone, Tony Major, Ian Crook, James Richardson, Jenny Varley.

Guests: Roger Daley, Shaun Thompson, Sarah Richardson, Emily Hulley, Roger Smith, Steve Cheslett, David ??

The campsite at Ty Nant, under Cadair, is to be recommended. Great setting, somewhat sloping in areas, but quiet, and good facilities. Maybe the sunshine on Friday evening and all day Saturday had something to do with it as well. They also have a tea room, just in case you get off the mountain early.

The scorching weather certainly brought the KMC crowds out - all but 4 of the tents at the site were ours. Friday was so nice that certain people, no names of course, headed to the coast for a dip on arrival - it was just like the Med, honest.

Saturday was really hot and sunny. Various teams lugged their gear up the mountain to tackle Cyfrwy Arete (Jim & Sandy), Obsession (Al, James and Sarah), something resembling Stross (Ian and Emily), and others (Steve & Roger S, plus Dave & Tony). The remainder of the meet did a classic "duck and dive" walk, with the main features, mainly to avoid sunstroke, being 2 dips in Llyn y Gadair, one on the way up, and one on the way back down. Ascent was via the Foxes path, then over to Mynydd Moel, where Iain departed to take the sheltered route back to base, then over the summit and down the tourist route. Jim and Sandy also took advantage of the Llyn on their way off the hill.

Saturday evening consisted of a mass sea dip by 9 members, with a fine synchronised swimming session led by our own club trainer, Christine. This was followed the normal pub session at the Gwernan Lake Hotel; the challenge there being to get the landlord to smile.

Good job we all enjoyed Saturday, as Sunday broke, literally, with thunder, lightening, and rain. It did ease up enough for Jim and Sandy, Alan, Dave Bone, Dave Wylie, Sarah, Roger, Sean and Iain to do a walk on the north side of the road, taking in Lynnau Gregennen, which is a lovely spot for those who don't know it. Al and Jenny managed a climb at about 5pm somewhere in Clywd!

Thanks to everyone who came.


Sun 17th August - Froggatt Climbing - Heather Brooke

Members: Lester Payne, Mark Ashley, Dave Dillon, Daniel O'Brien, Andrew Croughton, Sheena Hendrie, Sabina Cosulich, Mark Garrod, Sue Brooke, John Dobson, Roy Lee, Ian Crook, Al Metelko, Rob Allen, John Evans, Fiona Roy, Alan (Liverpool) Jones, Martin Heaton, Zoe Talks, Cathy Gordon, Jenny Varley (Particle), Paul Evans.

Guests: Antonio Osuna, John Cox, Alex Dobson, Jackie Storbeck, Shane Storbeck, Alex Heaton, Emily Hulley, Roger Daley, Tris Cranston, David Moon.

With almost perfect weather for late summer climbing, I was looking forward to a great day at Froggatt. An amazing day was had but it was interrupted by the clouds of midges flying around everybody for most of the day. With midge spray in hand, lots of climbing and socialising was done. There was the usual queue at the bottom of Heather Wall for most of the day with some braving the delights of Tody's Wall whilst their second fought with the midges. Many other of the classics at Froggatt were done throughout the day like Chequer's Buttress, Slab Recess, Trapeze and Trapeze Direct plus Hawks Nest, Green Gut and Valkyrie. In the glorious sunshine, Roy Lee (Granddad) was also seen climbing the delights of both Sunset Crack and Heather Wall whilst Ivy Lee (Nana) stayed with the cars just to keep an eye on them for everybody. So all that's lefts to say is thanks for the fantastic turnout, like every year, it was a wonderful day with the Crèche in full swing and the same brilliant atmosphere. Let's see if I can discover a different crag for next year!!

To the people who disappeared to a nice limestone crag without midges, I hope you had an equally good day and climbed lots and lots.


23rd / 24th August - Ty Powder - KMC

Enjoying the sunshine: Sheena and Steve Hendrie, Trish Cranston, Dave Garland, Dave Dillon, Linda Crossley, Clive Duerden, Dave Bone, Tony Major, Steve Bowker, Scott Saddler, Jenny Varley, Al Metelko, Kevin Anderson, Julie O'Regan, Ian Crook, Emily Hulley, Steve and Lynne Cardwell, Shaun Thomson, Pete Walker, Pete Schofield, Graham Haslehurst, John Evans, Richard Turner, Sabina Cosulich, Rob Allen.

Daring Deeds of Particular Note (above and beyond the normal daring deeds like gear shopping*): Scott's waltz up Left Wall. Trish's plan to "just" scramble up Cloggy. Emily's choice of Gogarth for her first abseil. Steve H's cycle to the Hut from Northwich over the pass. Kevin's first lead without the aid of a helicopter. Richard's ascent of Crackstone Rib. Jenny and the swimming song. Graham's amazing flying diablo. Shaun's run from the hut over the Glyders into Ogwyn and back. Rob's unusual dormouse impression. Julie's impressive knowledge of alcoholic mixtures. John's attack on the loos in tasteful yellow gloves.

* Gear Shopping: Doing a route because of the seductive glint from someone else's high point.


Mon 25th August - Caving & Camping - Joe Flynn

Actually: 23rd August. Joe's Gaping Gill Meet

Members present: Joe Flynn, Lester Payne, John Dwyer (yes he is not dead), Sue Brooke, John Dobson.

Guests: Philip Dwyer, Dave Moon.

Every August Bank holiday the Craven Pothole club holds a winch' meet at Gaping Gill, when, for a fee, they winch members of the public down the 300+ foot main shaft of Gaping Gill to view the cathedral like cavern below. When the representative of the Craven Pothole Club attended our last Annual Dinner, Flynn hatched a plan to avoid paying the £8 winch fee by manning the beer tent in return for a free trip on the winch. Unfortunately communications proved to be a problem and the plan never came to fruition, so instead, it was decided that we should pay the £8 and join the tourists for a winch down and a winch up with a two hours (max according to Joe) look round at the bottom. At the same time we would reconnoitre the event with a view to arranging a meet next year.

Following a 2nd breakfast in Inglesports café it was 13.00 before we arrived at the pot. Faced with a 2 ½ hour wait, Flynn hatched an alternative strategy on how to avoid the charge - we would go down Bar Pot, join the queue at the main chamber and they would winch us up without knowing that we had not paid!

A quick squeeze through the entrance passage led us to the first 40 foot shaft and an abseil through a tight rift opening out into a small chamber below. This was followed by a descent down an extremely polished and greasy slab to a larger chamber and more tunnels to reach the second 150 foot shaft. This was an amazing abseil as it was virtually free hanging all the way, with the main pleasure being the fact that we would not have to ascend the in situ electron ladder (but how wrong could we be). After what seemed an inordinate amount of crawling, at one point flat out, and changes of direction through a maze of tunnels, el presidenti finally admitted to not having a clue how to find the main chamber despite the fact that he was clutching in his mitts an extremely detailed map (downloaded for free off the internet!) and he assured us that he had done the trip before?

An extremely weary team headed back to the surface with the thought a of a 150 foot free hanging ladder to ascend as a starter. Joe had an epic on the ladder when Lester momentarily forgot which rope he was pulling on and Sue announced after 30 foot of climbing that she couldn't do it, and contemplated bursting into tears! However the problem of Sue's lack of strength was solved by Joe whose sympathetic character was revealed when he informed her that she didn't have a choice. Dave, John and Lester were more supportive and acted as a human winching system to help take the stain off Sue's arms as she climbed the ladder. The second 40 foot ascent was also challenging as the rift seemed a lot tighter ascending than descending and the body jammed without effort when trying to raise knees to climb the ladder.


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