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July 2004 Other Articles
Parker's Eliminate! Its part in my downfall! - Dan Creber
In most climbers' life a route, ridge or summit comes along who's
very challenge takes on monumentous proportions in that climber's
career i.e. a 'must do' route. All climbers have one; the usual
suspects include 'Cenotaph Corner', 'Valkayrie' or 'Half Dome';
mountaineering routes maybe 'Tower Ridge' or 'Gouter Ridge'.
'Classic routes' get hyped up by guide books, magazines, word of
mouth or more often than not by an aspiring climber witnessing in awe
a more accomplished climber 'bag it'. This is the story of how one
route dominated and took over my entire life between 2000 to 2004 -
'Parker's Eliminate, a grit stone route at Hobson Moor Quarry on the
edge of the Peak District.
I started climbing in the spring of 2000. I had always been into
walking and the outdoors. After a chance encounter with a climber
whose enthusiasm for climbing knew no limits and who went around
shouting its virtues like a double glazing salesman, (even his
nickname was 'climbing Dan') I soon became initiated into the world
of rock. It wasn't long before I was going down to Cotswold's and
buying my own rock boots, harness and belay device, thinking that
maybe if I had a chalk bag with the words Wild Country on it, this
might mask that fact that I was a climbing virgin when I was at the
crag.
As I live in Manchester my initial climbing took me to popular Peak
District crags such as Stanage Edge, Burbage and Wimbery Rocks, and
closer to Manchester to various grit stone quarries, which were more
accessible and not as busy. I took to climbing like a duck to water;
I loved the regular weekends in the countryside, the scenic views of
the hills, and the ruggedness of the crags, the calming and relaxing
atmosphere compared to the inner city and the cheerful openness and
banter among other climbers. However this newly found enthusiasm did
not translate into climbing ability. Aged 30, I had an unhealthy
lifestyle (smoking, drinking and eating fatty foods); I lacked upper
body strength, and as with most novices I had to overcome my initial
fear of heights and being 'scared'. Slowly a lifestyle change began,
which included regular exercise, reading various climbing books and
magazines, eating porridge, muesli bars and pasta (not all at the
same time!) instead of the usual nightly fry ups. And of course I
changed from Marlboro to roll ups - Golden Virginia! Slowly after a
couple of months I started going up 'Diffs' without hanging on to the
rope!
My first contact with Parker's was in May 2000. Climbing Dan, a
friend Mike and I had decided to go to Hobson Moor the night before
in the pub. I think it was suggested as it was close and we felt that
we might be little worse for wear in the morning after that evening's
heavy session. The approach to the quarry from the road is
confusing. Despite its imposing nature suggested by it's height,
compact area, and surrounding hills, Hobson has the feel of a
municipal land fill site with glass and discarded rubbish left by the
locals (officially it is still in Greater Manchester!) and the
obligatory 'Sharon is a slag' graffiti imprinted on the rock. I
remember it was a really sunny day with heat bouncing off the
quadrangle of rock. Armed with 'On Peak Rock' I studied the various
routes, to see if there were any Diffs I liked the look of. Based
near a high corner of the quarry an obvious vertical crack line
immediately hit me 'What the **** was that?' I looked in the book,
'Parkers Eliminate HVS 5a' - 'classic!' I spent most of that
afternoon preoccupied with that route watching in awe as various
climbers gently followed the crack line to the top. I think what
struck me at that time was the look of intensity on the faces of
those leading, how they slowly studied each move and each gear
placement and gingerly edged there way up. The routes commitment
seems very apparent even from just viewing. The S shaped vertical
crack line is at a constant 80 degrees with a slight overhanging bit
in the middle, there were no obvious rest points or sidesteps to an
easier route. The beaming delight on the faces of those completing
the Parker's was inescapable and was often accompanied with an
expletive being shouted at the top. I was hooked there and then - if
I was to climb then everything I did would have to work towards me
one day leading Parker's - end of story. I instinctively knew that
if this challenge could be achieved than I could hold my head up high
not only in climbing circles - but in life!!! Of course I had to have
a go that afternoon, on a top rope, which unsurprisingly resulted in
me barely being able to get off the ground and I had to watch
jealously while Dan and Mike made the route look easy. I didn't mind,
it was love at first sight, somehow, in attempting to climb Parker's
and failing so badly made want to climb it even more. I had only just
started climbing, Parker's wasn't going to go away and I knew there
would be other dates with Parker's when I would be more experienced
and stronger both physically and mentally. The gauntlet had been set.
Over the next 2 years my climbing steadily improved, to the point
where I was able to lead a few VS's, including some other routes at
Hobson. I had joined a climbing club and gradually expanded my
climbing experience and knowledge and had been to some notable places
climbing (Langdale Pikes, Trefan, Brimham Rocks.) I had even started
to attend local climbing walls. Yet I still knew that I was not ready
to try Parker's again. Occasionally after work or on a free afternoon
I would travel to Hobson in the hope that someone would be climbing
Parker's so that I could study their moves, look at gear placements
and learn from their technique. It was very sad!
On a cold autumn night in 2001, Dan and I sat outside in my garden
having a smoke and looking up at a full moon. 'Have you ever climbed
at night in the moonlight?' Dan enquired. I looked at him puzzled,
wandering whether his never dying enthusiasm had finally affected his
sanity. Forty minutes later I was belaying Dan as he amazingly scaled
Parker's in the shadow of the moonlight in near freezing conditions.
It was gripping stuff, I was convinced that Dan had lost it, yet
watched in awe as Dan followed up the crack line in near total
darkness. Some what predictably my 2nd was not as impressive, I could
hardly see what I was doing, had lost all feeling in my hands from
the moment I had left the ground and spent most of the route hanging
on the rope. Dan and myself reflected on it being a magical and mad
evening, but this was not how I wanted to climb Parker's!
In the summer of 2002, prior to a trip to Chamonix, some friends from
the climbing club and I visited Hobson. On a gorgeous July evening,
my climbing had improved significantly to successfully 2nd Parker's.
Parker's was everything I thought it would be, even the months of
studying the route did not take anything away from the excitement and
challenge of the climb. The joy of 2nding Parkers was short lived as
I knew I was only half way there, besides by that time I had 2nded
other routes of a similar grade. I would have to lead it to claim my
prize.
A week after returning from the Alps I returned with a friend from
the club with the express purpose of attempting to lead the route.
This was my first HVS lead; at the bottom of the route anxiety filled
my body to the point where I felt physically sick. Although Parker's
offers excellent protection due to the crack line, I was aware that
this time the climb was for real and that any falls may have serious
consequences. Added to that, the gear and my helmet made me feel
comfortably heavy. Slowly I grappled my way up the crack. It seemed
to take an age for me to reach the crux overhang section, the gear
placements had taken their toll and my arms felt like lead. Somehow I
managed to muster enough energy to put a 'friend' into a crucial
placement point; it was during the diagonal move after this where my
arms finally gave way. 'Bollocks!' I felt myself swing to the right
with frightening speed, I felt my weight fall onto the friend
approximately 2 metres above me, 7 metres from the floor, I glanced
up relieved to see that the friend had held. Somewhat shaken I came
off the route and swapped the lead with my more experienced partner.
The route had beaten once again, but I had come away unharmed and
even more determined to lead it someday.
Not long after this, Dan and I were involved in an actual climbing
accident at Burbage, which resulted in Dan breaking his foot. That
weekend was not pleasant, 5 hours were spent in a Sheffield casualty
unit and the next day Dan and I had to deal with Dan's unhappy
parents who understandably were not too pleased with our escapades.
Unsurprisingly the next 18 months were a confused time and included
periods where I lost my interest in climbing totally, preferring
other outdoor activities, but I never forgot about Parker's and still
dreamt about one day leading it.
During the summer of 2003 I purchased a bouldering mat after deciding
that bouldering was a safer sport. It wasn't. Never the less I really
took to bouldering enjoying ability to climb without equipment and
being able to go off by myself when I wanted to. I felt my technique
improved through bouldering, learning to smear better and make the
most out of minimal holds. Coming back from a trip to Fontainebleau
in Sept 03, I realised that I had been able to climb 5b and 5c
bouldering problems. Parker's was 5a! What was the problem? Again the
spectre of Parker's returned.
With a bit more time on my hands winter 03/04 saw me hit the fitness
trail. I gave up smoking, watched my drinking, joined a gym and
attempted harder routes at local walls. A batch of nice weather in
March saw me top rope Parkers again, it did feel as tiring as I had
remebered! Maybe the extra training had paid off? The next day I
telephoned Mark (Dan had moved to North Wales by this point to be a
climbing instructor!) and informed him that I would be leading
Parker's that week and he would be belaying me. Sensing my wave of
enthusiasm, Mark agreed to meet up after work later that week.
March 31st 2004 was a pleasant spring evening and a lot of
boulderers were at the quarry. I finished work early and spent half
an hour nervously staring at the imposing crack line. By 6.15 pm Mark
had still not arrived, maybe he wasn't coming! I had an uneasy
feeling of relief and disappointment. The traffic was bad and Mark
eventually arrived. The climb was on!!! I hurriedly put on my harness
and sorted out what gear was required so as not let anxiety change my
mind or be talked out of it. I gulped half a bar of Kendal mint cake
down with some water hoping that somehow this might give me that
extra bit of energy required to succeed. As I was just about to
start, 2 climbers from the club arrived at the quarry - oh no - extra
pressure! Parker's is well known locally as a tricky lead and they
stood by and watched offering encouragement. .
Steadily I ascended the crack approaching the crux just below where I
had fallen previously. Suddenly I started to panic (maybe it was the
memories of the fall?), all of a sudden my arms felt heavy and I
stupidly had problems finding the required friend for the overhanging
crack, 'where's my larger friend?' I shouted in an anxious tone. It
was at the back of my harness and difficult to get at, reluctantly I
used a more accessible smaller friend, reasoning that any gear is
better than none. I was feeling my energy going and I had to make the
same diagonal move where I had come off before. I knew I had to go
for it then before my arms gave way. 'Can you concentrate?' I shouted
agitatedly at Mark as I overheard a jovial conversation about
Scotland below. With my pulse racing and sweat dripping down my face,
I somehow made it diagonally onto a thin ledge just left of crack
which took some pressure off my pumped up arms and allowed me time to
make a more secure gear placement. With this, I estimated that I was
over half way up the crack line, I was feeling exhausted and I knew
that it got easier after the next 5 metres of difficult, vertical,
near hold less climbing. I made a conscious decision not to hang
around and just go for it and not bother with gear until there were
decent holds, I felt confident that I would not 'deck out' if I fell
during this section - if my last placement held! With this in mind
and with a sudden burst of energy I hot headedly threw myself at the
remaining holds and smears, dynoing for a nice ledge 3 meters from
the top - I managed to reach it and both my hands held. At that
moment I knew that I had done it! 'I heard a couple of shouts of
appreciation below' as the others recognised this too. I pulled
myself up, made another gear placement then climbed the remaining
easy 2 metres. 'Get In!' I whaled at the top of my voice as I stood
up at the top then gestured with my fist to the onlookers below. I
felt like Hillary and Norgay - this route which had meant so much to
me for the past 4 years and had shaped my apprenticeship into
climbing had been finally overcome - I had done it, at that moment I
felt like I was walking on air!!! The others congratulated me, and
Mark and I went for a celebratory drink later that evening, but I
doubted that they really knew what 'bagging' Parker's had come to
mean to me.
Somehow successfully leading Parker's had released me from my
climbing addiction and I now felt could concentrate more on other
things in my life. Part of me wanted to give up climbing altogether,
in the knowledge that I had achieved what I had originally got into
climbing for in the first place. I doubted whether I could ever get
so fixated by other routes; did I want to have to go through again
what Parker's had put me through? I would continue - probably
climbing for the enjoyment of it rather than setting myself goal
after goal.
Looking back at the whole experience I now feel that striving for a
specific route can be a worthwhile process. Setting your sights on a
challenging route demands that you learn from your mistakes, it makes
you improve on your climbing techniques and it demands that you gain
the confidence required to achieve it. Ultimately obtaining the
skills to complete the route takes you to another level of climbing.
By learning how to lead Parker's Eliminate I had learnt how to climb
- and I have no regrets about that !
July Newsletter Index.
Copyright © 2004 Karabiner Mountaineering Club
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