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Karabiner Mountaineering Club

July 2004 Meet Reports


21st/22nd February - Ty-Powder, Winter Climbing - Scott Sadler

In attendance: Lester Payne, Mark Ashley, Alan Jones, Dan Creber, Duncan Lee, Trish Cranston, Julie O'Regan, Jenny Varley, Al Metelko and Scott Sadler.

"The only member young and stupid enough to run a welsh ice climbing meet" These were the words of Duncan when he read my entry into the meets calendar before the winter had even started. If you ask me, if you want a good winter season, all you need is blind optimism!

After listening to most people's negative thoughts of rain and warm weather, I was very pleased when 9 hopefuls turned up for the meet. The weekend turned out to be fine and dry with plenty of warm sunshine, but we didn't all care for that.

Myself, Duncan, Julie, Al and Jenny headed up to the cold shade of the Black ladders. We weren't very hopeful walking in wearing T-shirts but when we entered the shadows we could see a few strips of ice on the lower part of the cliffs. The ice wasn't perfect but it was good enough to string a couple of pitches together and declare the meet a success. Being the meet leader, it was my duty to put up a rope so that Julie and Jenny could both complete their first ever ice climbs with ease.

Lester, Mark, Trish, Alan and Dan headed off to Snowdon and completed a traverse of Crib goch, descending Y gribin ridge to join the miners track back down to Pen y pas.

Thanks to all who attended for a great weekend and I look forward to next year when I hope to see even more optimist's heading to Wales for ice.


Sun 29th February - Lake District Walk, Langdale - Linda Crossley

Lorna Marsland

Members: Pete Walker, Joe Flyn, Pete Walker, Lorna Marsland, Pete Walker, David Wylie, Pete Walker, Alan Wylie, Pete Walker, Peter Scholefield, Pete Walker, Alan (Liv) Jones, Pete Walker, Martin Heaton, Pete Walker, Lester Payne, Pete Walker, Linda Crossley, Pete Walker

Guests: Cath Sanders, Clive Duerden, James Hartley

The extra day of the year was a glorious one - endless clear blues skies, sunshine, and a dusting of snow. We set off up a Stickle Ghyll dripping in icicles and walked round to Jack's Rake. This classic scramble up Pavey Ark offered up a little extra frisson by providing icy patches at one or two more delicate points. Below, Stickle Tarn, frozen in places, was a deep shade of steely blue. Pete W and Alan (L) J felt the walk was a bit short so did a longer ascent and we met up at the top.

A brisk pace took us over the summits of Harrison Stickle and the Pike, after which we had lunch. Our President proffered his top make-up tips (coconut is a nice fragrance) and hot location shopping spots in Didsbury (where else?). "In former times the KMC were tough men" said Peter S ". can I try some of that cream for my face, Joe?"

The clear air provided views from the top of Bowfell stretching east to the Pennines, white with snow, west to the Isle of Man, suspended above the horizon, and north to Scotland, beyond the Solway Firth.

We returned down The Band and some ran back gasping to the NDG (Lorna and Peter S) where bottles were already being rapidly emptied (Pete W) and via the ODG for those desperate for a fix of Yates (Dave).

I enjoyed a great day out, thanks to all those who came along and commiserations to those DIY-ers who didn't.


Sun 21st March - Bamford - Dan O'Brien

Members: Dan O'Brien, Duncan Lee, Sabina Cosulich.

Guests: Shaun and Alex from SUMC.

Routes climbed included Quien Sabe? (one letter short of "Queen Sabe"), Gunpowder Crack and lots of monkeying around at the bottom between showers. Not exactly the roaring success that I hoped for my first meet, thanks to all who turned out (and then swiftly ran away. If you were the mysterious person in the green car who tuned up, took one look at the walk-in and sped off, you should be ashamed of yourself.


May 16th - Stanage - Sheena Hendrie

Members: Sheena Hendrie, Neville McMillan, John Castick, Virginia Castick, Al Metelko, Kevin Anderson, Craig Marsden, Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie, Sabina Cosulich, Roger Dyke, Jenny Varley, Robert Clark, Rob Allen, Mark Ashley, Dave Wylie, Ken Beetham, Linda Crossley, Lorna Marsland, Andrew Croughton, Colin Maddison, Julie O'Regan, Jo Farringdon, Dave Garland, Dave Shotton, Lester Payne, Dave Dillon, Dave Moon

Guests: Roisin Maddison, Roger Daley, Emily Hulley, Conrad Bower, Pete, Kate, Al, Kate and A N Other

This was a pretty impressive turnout on what turned out to be a nice warm sunny day. The improving weather was just as well, because the meet leaders initial choice of venue (Marble Wall Area) soon sorted us out. First Sister repulsed at least two not very intrepid leaders before succumbing to Rob Allen, the other Sisters were attacked by massed ranks of KMC, and only Kevin was brave enough to tackle the classic of the crag, Terrazza Crack. Spectators mocked and laughed at leaders' efforts while consuming the strawberries and white wine provided by the deputy meet leader, Sabina, and soaking up the sun.

Running out of options at Marble Wall, various parties drifted rightwards to Crow Chin and Travesties Buttress. Soon KMC ants were swarming all over Crow Chin, with Feathered Friends being a well recommended and amenable VS. The less said about Kelly's Eliminate the better but I'll never live it down!

So a good day was had by all and it was nice to visit a section of Stanage which we don't often go to.


June 5th/11th - Glen Brittle, Skye - Dave Wylie

Members and Guests: John Castick, Midge Castick, Roger Dyke, Sheena Hendrie, Cath Sanders, Jim Gregson, Sandy Gregson, Mark Ashley, Lorna Marsland, Helen Stephenson, Joanne Castick, Mark Heslop, John Wild, Al Metelko, Dave Shotton, Robert Clark, Dave Wylie

Some of the essential items that should be taken on a mountaineering trip to Skye are:

1) Climbing Gear 2) Walking/Scrambling Gear 3) Midge Repellent 4) Waterproofs 5) Drive and Tenacity

It was, perhaps, understandable that item (1) didn't get used much this year, for the same reason that item (3) wasn't really needed and why item (4) was so vital. However, the items listed under (2) did not seem to get used nearly as much as they should have, seemingly due to a lack of items (5) on the part of some of the members present.

It is quite understandable when low cloud, heavy rain or strong winds force mountaineers to undertake lower level walks and the climbers to revert to scrambling or walking. However, when the first sign of mist causes a large contingent to head for the shops(!), it does seem rather a poor show.

That said, people did actually get out on the hill, despite the rather disappointing weather. The record, as far as I am aware, was reaching the Cuillin Ridge on four consecutive days, though two of these were solo assaults along very short sections in mist.

Monday saw Sheena, Roger and Dave W. get to the South end of the Cuillin, via an ascent through Coire a'Ghrunda. Gaps in the cloud allowed for some views, but no sweeping panoramas. Trips by others included Idrigill Point, the Quiraing, Waternish Point and the low hills to the West of Glenbrittle.

The largest group trip was on the Tuesday, when a section of main ridge starting on Bruach na Frithe was attacked by a team of eleven. Some people dropped down early, but three managed to get along as far as An Dorus. Lorna and Helen had a separate trip, to tick off summits at the Northern end of the ridge. This was definitely the best day overall, with no rain and the cloud base higher than the summits. There was even a brief gap in the clouds which allowed the meet leader to glimpse the transit of Venus first thing in the morning!

The "longest day" prize must go to Al, who went up over the Cuillin, then down the Druim nan Ramh ridge to Coruisk. He then walked all the way round the Southern coastal path to get back to the Hut. The Gregson's expedition, later in the week, to go over the Ridge to Lotta Coire and Harta Coire, also rates highly in the "proper outing" stakes.

By Wednesday, it became obvious that not all of the KMC are true Rufty Tufty Mountain types. This is where shopping trips took over from outdoor activities. OK, so it rained in the morning - but it dried off in the afternoon for anybody who was prepared to put up with a bit of mist.

On Thursday, with more early rain, the rot really began to set in. the first group to defect headed down to the Lake District in search of better conditions (I'll give them the benefit of the doubt, rather than assuming they were looking for more shops). Two more (no names, no pack drill) then also ran away, one to seek out Inverewe Gardens and the other claiming to be heading for Hobson Moor...

It was perhaps ironic that, given the large amounts of water outside the Hut, there were supply problems inside. Warning notices about high levels of bacteria in the water had been posted next to all taps. The KMC response to these varied from one extreme to the other (i.e. from completely ignoring them to only using bottled water). No reports of Cholera or Dysentery have yet reached the meet leader. Things didn't improve by the second half of the week. An airlock, triggered by the Hut Warden's cleaning session at the water intake, resulted in there being no water supply at all in the Hut on Thursday evening. This is, of course, all just part of the Rich Mountaineering Experience!

Friday morning (with yet more rain) saw a further eight people, in four cars, give up and leave. At this point, even the meet leader's spirit broke and he too headed back South early. Extra points must therefore go to John Wild and Mark Ashley for sticking things out to the end. Mark gets a further bonus point, as he had booked into the Youth Hostel for the Saturday night so that he could stay an extra day.

Thanks must go to our Hut Warden for the week, John Temple. Despite having to go to London by coach for a one day meeting during our stay(!), he made us all feel very welcome.

Will there be another KMC Skye Trip next year? If there is, then the weather is bound to be better (he said...) and so there'd be no excuses. Watch this space.


June 13th - Millstone Climbing - Dave Dillon

Present : Kate Sparks, Ken Beetham, Colin Maddison, Rosine, Duncan Lee, Sabina Cosulich, Al Metelko, Jenny Varley, Rick Davis, Julie O'Regan, Sheena Hendrie, Dave Bone, Dave Dillon.

The weather was superb. Blue skies, delightful sunshine, with trees and bushes to give a spot of shade, when required. The teachers and ex-presidents made a good stand for proportional representation. Team Dave was mostly down to one until t'other turned up from Cheer Tor and various expedition activities. Sheena and Al popped in from Skye.

Millstone laid out it's impressive array of routes, all dry and ready for use. Great North Road, Boomerang, Bond Street, The Scoop, Stone Dri, Flapjack (Variant), Lyon's Corner House (Italian style), etc., etc.

There was buzz (or rumble) of activity when the cakes and tea were unleashed into the community. They'd been hand crafted by Julie. Though sadly some had been choffed the day before at Burgbage North on Heather's meet. Quality control was the excuse. It certainly helped with the communal snufflings.

For me it turned out to be the second of three days climbing, in the peak, in the sun. So, many thanks for coming along and, er, enjoying yourselves.


July Newsletter Index.


Copyright © 2004 Karabiner Mountaineering Club

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