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Karabiner Mountaineering Club

September 2004 Meet Reports


31st/1st February - Bowderstone Cottage, Borrowdale - Mary Stuart

Attendees: Dave Bone, Steve Cheslett, Trish Cranston, Andy Croughton, Dave Dillon, Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie, John Hinde, Al Metalco, Mary Stuart, Jenny Varley,

With apologies from the meet leader for this late report.

This was a weekend was fire & water. There was constant heavy, rain - so most of the weekend was spent indoors, close to roaring fires at the hut, or at the Keswick climbing wall (Mary, Dave & Steve) or going shopping (everyone except Dave Dillon, who as Keeper of the Fire stayed at the hut for the whole weekend). Tribute must be paid to those who braved the elements - notably, on Saturday Mark & Michelle walked to Seathwaith and on Sunday Dave Bone & Trish walked up Langstrath, up to Esk Hause, and returned over Allens Crag, Glaramara, Rosthwaite Fell & Rosthwaite. Also, Mark, Michelle, Al & Jenny went for wet runs on Sunday.

In spite of (or perhaps because of) the weather, this was a highly sociable weekend. The meet leader provided Irish stew for all on the Saturday night - we took turns sitting at the table with a group from the Bedford climbing club who were also staying at the hut. Then all had a hand trying to complete a giant crossword from one of the Saturday papers. I seem to remember that the only missing word was the name of a mountain range in North America!

For me, the highlight of the weekend was a visit to the Borrowdale Yews which are though to be about 3,000 years old. It was humbling to stand next to a living thing of that age - we even stopped complaining about the rain!


May 1st/5th - Sourlies Bothie, Knoydart - Graham Harkness

Members: Lorna Marsland, Graham Harkenss, Sue Harkness.

Guests: Dave Hall, Ron Marshal.

There is an anonymity about the inside of a tent, lying warm and comfortable in your sleeping bag. The drumming of the rain on the canvas, the flapping noise. These are universals, but stuff that, there is no doubt where you are. Outside you know that somewhere in the clag there is a spectacular view of a beautiful Scottish Loch and a ring of most impressive rain sodden, mist shrouded Munroe's just waiting to be bagged.

The Munroe's were a challenge,.... but enough of plagiarism

To return to the Friday night of the 30th April, The planned party of 4 gathered in the Bridge of Orchy Bunk House around 22;00 hrs. Two cars and Dave on his motor bike

Saturday May 1st - DAY 1

Saturday morning was sunny and fresh. We had a leisurely breakfast and set off for Loch Archaig. Dave advised that we were to be joined by another long time friend Ronnie, an aged caravan dweller of no fixed abode, who decided to turn up. There was a small delay while Dave dropped off the motor bike at the caravan site, for security, and travelled in with wandering Ron. As events unfolded this proved to be a most fortunate decision.

The first lesson of Knoydart is that everything takes longer than you think, and that's not just because this was a meeting of the retired and infirm. The road up to and along Loch Archaig is part of the Great Glen cycle trail and it so happened that morning about two thousand ( I exaggerate there were only 800) overweight and unfit cyclists with numbers on their backs were all over the road (Maggie's Great Glen bike and walk event). We got past that obstacle and continued up the lovely Loch Archaig past waterfalls, the Witches Cauldron and trees and deer.

On the lower part of the Loch Archaig road there were cars and what looked like semi permanent caravans but these were left behind as the country became wilder and the road overgrown with grass, until at the far, remote end of Loch Archaig was Lorna. parked on the verge about a mile back from the gated track, on the end of a wild distant remote car park that looked like the M25 in rush hour, however Knoydart is a big place.

We geared up and eventually set off at 12:30. My original 5 hr estimate for the walk in was wrong. The trail was a lot more rugged than I anticipated. The trail was clear but very boggy and rough. The weather was great, sunny and warm and the country delightful. Dave a great mine of knowledge about anything not practical insisted that a break every hour was recommended for optimum progress when trekking with large sacks in rough country. No arguments from anyone. We arrived at the Bothy by 18:30, 6 hrs to walk from Strathan to Sourlies at an easy pace.

The Bothy is set on the north side of a wide inlet. There are several ruins near by and very close to the Bothy a good area of turf for camping. We took water from a small stream.

There were several people in the Bothy and two tents already in place.

We had set about pitching tents when someone noticed some dots on the horizon approaching from the sea, not Vikings but seven sea Kayaks.

As it turned out the occupants were a set of instructors from various outdoor schools who had canoed round the 20k or so from Malaig via Inverie where they had stopped for a pint before moving up to Sourlies.

Once they landed the occupants set about like a gang of dockers pulling out tents, gear, food, beer and a bottle of Laphroig whiskey. Its amazing how much you can get in a sea Kyak. The deserted wilderness turf now housed the occupants of 8 tents plus about 6 people in the bothy.

This was when the Linda Crossley influence first became apparent. Everything Lorna pulled out of her sack was calculated and approved of by the Linda Crossley "check your back pack" computer program. My alternative theory is if you like it stuff it in(does he have no self restraint . Hm not a lot)

So Lorna scoffed her Crossley calculated Bean feast and we had Harkness Spagetti bolognaise Susan had cooked the day before, red wine (I had decanted it into two plastic bottles) and Genoa cake. We were too full for the custard.

Sunday May 2nd - DAY 2

A good morning for Knoydart. After breakfast Susan decided to stay to appreciate the beauty and wandering Ron.. wandered.

Lorna, Dave and Graham took a ridge more or less straight out of the back of the camp site and headed north east for Sgurr na Ciche (1040m). To reach the munroe we passed over a very distinctive point and then more or less straight to the top, arriving around lunch time. By then the cloud had gathered and covered the tops. We stopped for lunch when ring, ring (or some other noise) a telephone?? Lorna's phone had switched on accidentally and received a call announcing she had won something, or something. At 900meters you can get a signal even out there. I tried a text to Midge but got no reply.

Really wet and cold by now as we headed south east down and then up again to Garbh Chioch Mhor (1013m). The weather was getting steadily worse so we retraced our steps down and then westish following the stream steeply down to Allt Coire na ciche. My purchase of the entire works of Gilbert and Sulivan for £20 provided some conversation and we descended to a chorus of "When a felons not engaged in his employment or a hatch'in a felonious little plan his capacity for innocent enjoyment ...etc"

Always the going was rough and slower than we had anticipated until we eventually picked up a well made track which dropped down to join the main track from Glen Dessarry back to the Bothy.

On the way back we picked up some dead braches for firewood. I was mocked but did manage to get a very comforting fire going in the bothy with no smoke after the initial warm up. We all dried off and had a very convivial evening with the various people and Kayak travellers.

Monday May 3rd - DAY 3

Lorna, Dave, Graham and Susan headed for MEALL BUIDHE (946m). The way was to head north west from the bothy around the top of the inlet and then upstream alongside the river Carnach to find a crossing. The river is wide and near to the loch it flows through a wide open area about 1 km across. This is a bog but you can see a bridge near to the ruins of Carnoch barracks. A wild place for a lonely soldier I imagine. From the river there is a good path up to the pass of Mam Meadail. The path continues another 8 or so kilometres to Inverie but we "hung a right" up a very steep hillside towards the summit. There was the start of a path but it disappeared and the hill was verging on a scramble for the 300meters to the col between Scurr-Sgeithe and Meall Buidhe.

We did Scurr-Sgeithe and headed back along the ridge towards the main summit but by now it had clouded over completely and was very cold. By the time we reached the summit we were in a squall, complete with snow whirling around us. We did not fancy retracing our steps down so a bearing was taken from the top of Meall Buidhe back to Mam Meadail. The bearing eased the angle and avoided the crags.

It seemed extremely steep at first but the option was a long walk down the ridge to Inverie, but in practice the angle quickly lessened so I could stop fretting.

After a short descent it became a pleasant walk again below the cloud. The third munroe of the trip.

The walk back around the coast with the tide coming in was very pleasant, the tail enders even had a paddle but it was very wet by the time we got back and the wind was up.

We battened down the tents and retired to the Bothy to cook. Because we had enjoyed a nice fire the night before those that had been there said do it again Graham, - not a good idea. I don't know why, I think it was the wind direction now down the Glen, however this time the fire did light ok at first but then totally filled the bothy with choking smoke. Try as I might it could not get the smoke to clear, (the bothy did though). As quickly as I could I did get rid of the fire but it took a while and I consider myself lucky that the new arrivals did not heave me out into the Loch.

Tuesday May 4th - DAY 4

This time the weather was awful. Low cloud and steady rain. Lorna had planned to leave that day so the rest of us decided to keep her company.

We got a good way up the path, on the way up to the Lochan Mhaim when things went a little wrong. Dave the sure footed whom I have walked with for around 40 years and who has trod a respectable selection of the most remote mountains of Europe, India, North and South America, often on his own, put a foot wrong.

It was very wet and the ground was certainly rough but as far as we can tell all that happened was his heel slipped a little way and then came to an abrupt stop, he did not even go down, but the consequence was he could not straighten his leg at the knee and could barely walk. In the big party there was no real problem we divided his gear between us and Dave hobbled slowly on his sticks (he always did likened them to a Zimmer frame). The going was slow for an hour or two and the loads were heavy. The sack carriers got a bit ahead of the injured Dave.

About 4 k from the cars the path joined the track down the Glen and fortunately there was a truck and a man on a JCB. The JCB driver was helpful and gave me the combination for the gate lock at the road end so I dropped my bag and took a little jog to get the car. I had returned about one k back up the track in the car when round a blind bend came a Land Rover, woops it was "The 'keeper".

As it happened he was an extremely pleasant and helpful young chap. I explained what I was doing. "Will ye get up in that" said he eyeing my Scenic, "should do" said I, "aye but yeel no get back, ye might damage it" and off he went to rescue the team .

Lorna went on because she was driving back to Manchester.

Susan got to sit in the front seat of the Land Rover next to this guy who looked ordinary to me, a bit like them that you see on the adverts for Scottish holidays, dark, bit of stubble on the chin, tall, slim square jaw etc but Susan was made up and came back grinning and going on about how lovely it was sitting in the Land rover with his dog was cuddling up to her? very odd behaviour for an elderly lady.

Lorna departed and the rest of us who were staying in a hotel near to Ron's caravan site went to anaesthetise the lads leg with a few pints and a bit of dinner. All told the incident only cost us a few hours.

Epilogue

Dave went to the hospital the next day and they patched him up but he could not ride his motor bike home. Dave stayed with Ron for a few days and Sue and I took him back home when we went. He got the bike back a couple of weeks later, on a trailer.

We still do not really know what the injury was but even 3 month later it is still not right, some tendon attached to the knee cap is suspect.

All told a very pleasant weekend, 4 good days walking and 3 excellent munroes.

On a more serious note can I record a formal thank you to the young gentleman in the Landover for helping us so good naturedly. He probably did save me scraping the underside of my car.

PRACTICAL NOTES

The Bridge of Orchy bunk house is convenient for an overnight stay when heading north on a Friday night, far enough to give a good start the next day. Cost is £10 per night but Breakfast and Linen are extra. We paid £14 b&b. Not as good value as it was the year before but OK.

The Linda Crossley Guidelines on what to carry. I whole heartedly agree with the very good recommendations if you are trekking but still like a few comforts if you are just making a shortish single carry to a base camp.

However, last year on the way in I strained a knee muscle called a Bursar which was not a stopper but a nuisance for a few weeks. This year Dave picked up a more serious knee injury. It may be bad luck but 2 out of 2 suggests that the mature backpacker needs to tread a little more gently than before and watch the load, can I get a copy of the backpackers spreadsheet?

The bothy at Sourlies is a good place to camp. The bothy itself is also good but is now popular. We took water purifying drops and I would do again, but the water seemed ok.

Wild camping is an acquired taste but rewarding I would encourage more of this type of meet if only to keep me company and hone your skills for greater things.


May 8th/9th - Ty Powdwr WORKING PARTY - Chris Thickett

Present: Iain & Pam McCallum; Dave Wylie; Alan Wylie; John and Virginia Castick; John Evans; Roger Dyke; Chris Thickett.

The excitement started on Friday afternoon with the delivery of 10 tons of road stone - not usually cause for racing heartbeats and breathless gasps. This time, though, our mate decided to go 'off-road' taking the bend before the black gate too wide and almost succeeded in turning the wagon over and into the Padarn Woods. After that he nearly missed the last bend down to the hut itself and finally got the vehicle stuck going back up the hill. Good job he had the stone on board - it became very useful in the rescue of the wagon on each occasion.

The main push for the weekend was going to be the repair of the boundary walls. First we needed the tools from Ty Fuse but the key would not turn in the lock. In the meantime Roger had come to check the septic tank but the tools we wanted were also in Ty Fuse. Never mind, I'll get the road menders on the job with some of Stirling's 10 tons of stone. Oh! No! The tools are in Ty Fuse. Well and truly buggered in a manner of speaking! My 'Fuse' was most definitely 'Ty'.

So the main task of Saturday became the repair of the lock of Ty Fuse and this was duly accomplished by the Wylie Bros. with their usual mixture of enthusiasm and ingenuity.

Midge too was showing a vast amount of zeal, this time in the gents' shower where she improved the drainage and appearance whilst remaining fully clothed. Later, she and I laid further insulation to the ceiling above the kitchen come common room.

The weather turned damp over the weekend so any scheduled juggling with mortar had to be put on hold whilst other less rain-affected tasks had to be sought.

John E made a splendid job of one of the gaps in the perimeter wall after I had instructed him to complete another section. This latter had to our amazement already been completed by Father Christmas or an Easter Bunny although I thought that there was a little 'Wavey' influence. John then went onto pothole duty.

The other John took up strimming the grass growing long without the attention of our friends the sheep. Iain managed to inspect the plantations and repair some of the damage sustained by the wagon when not carrying out domestic duties indoors.

After restocking the first aid box, Pam set about cataloguing the books looking just the part behind her desk and telling me to "Shush!" went I stuck my head round the door.

On Sunday the drizzle was replaced by quite thick mist. John C did some more strimming in the morning whilst Dave and myself rebuilt a section of perimeter wall. Alan busied himself with several jobs until we were all fed up with the weather and went home.

Now, back to the hills until October!


May 22nd/23rd - Borrowdale Camp/Climb - Virginia Castick

Members: John Castick, Virginia Castick, Joanne Castick, Lester Payne, Tony Major, Dave Bone, Julie O'Regan, Duncan Lee, Sabina Cosulich, Al Metelko, Kevin McDonald, Jenny Varley, Rob Allen, Mary Stuart, Jim Gregson, Sandy Gregson, Sheena Hendrie, Lynn Tomlinson, Ann Sanderson.

Guests: Mark Heslop, Katherine O'Regan, Ian Heginbotham, Cathy Sanders, Roger Daley. John ? Emily Teresa, Alex Dobson, Mark Tomlinson.

This was a camping/climbing meet and plenty of both took place due to perfect weather conditions. Grange campsite was chosen because I hadn't been there for years. It is a lovely secluded site surrounded by trees. It lacks showers or any hot water close to the site but you can't have everything.

The Napes was the chosen venue for Saturday and 12 people made the walk which was enlivened by the constant drone of helicopters transporting stones for path repair on the Wasdale - Styhead path. No-one reached the top of the Needle although John ? and Joanne reached the shoulder. Those of us who had been up it years ago did not feel obliged to wobble our way to the top again.

Several classic routes were ascended by various parties including Needle Ridge, Arrowhead Ridge Direct and Abbey Buttress. Some of us had a long wait on the summit of Great Gable waiting for a meticulous John ? to pack his stuff away in the correct plastic bags. However sitting on the summit was a delight on still clear evening. On our return there was still time for a BBQ and a pint. Other parties visited Goat Crag, Sergeant Crag slabs and the inevitable Shepherds Crag.

After a pleasant laze about in the sun on Sunday morning and a chat to Pete Leeson who dropped by on his mountain bike, everyone went their various ways. Shepherds Crag saw more action as did Sergeant Crag and Raven crag. No weekend in Borrowdale would be complete without somebody ascending Corvus.

I hope you all enjoyed the weekend as much as I did. Sorry if your name is missed off. There were so many people there it was hard to count!


July 24th/25th - Ty Powdwr: Birthday Meet - Seddon/McCallum/Anderson

Members: Bob Anderson, Kevin Anderson, John Castick, Virginia Castick, Dave Dillon, Roger Dyke, John Evans, Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie, Sheena Hendrie, Iain McCallum, Neville McMillan, Lorna Marsland, Lester Payne, Derek Seddon, Jim Taylor, Peter Walker, Frank Williams, Margaret Williams, Keith Williams (20).

Guests: Pete Apps, Roger Daley, James Hartley, Pam McCallum, Carl Pulley, Cath. Sanders, Kate Sparks (7).

The weather was not as ordered and not at all seasonable, Saturday was cloudy and very cool and windy on the tops. Sunday was blessed with rain, heavy at times, accompanied with low cloud. However, the KMC and friends rose to the challenge and went:

Climbing

Gogarth - Resolution Direct, Times Square, Kevin & Pete Cloggy - Great Slab - John and Carl Little Tryfan - various routes - Bob, Keith, and Peter (Friday) Crib Goch ? - Dave Dillon and Roger ( Several climbers suffered bruises and abrasions and needed TLC back at base!)

Scrambling

Idwal area - various routes - Bob, Peter and Keith

Walking

Cnicht from Nant Gwynant. Due to a map reading error on the part of the leader we followed a quad bike route up the hill towards the ridge north of Cnicht. Thus we found ourselves well off route but closer to our objective. On the summit we were rewarded with a fine panoramic view stretching south to Cadair Idris and Porthmadog, east to Moel Hebog, and north to Snowdon, the Glyders and Moel Siabod. On our way back to the hut most of us stopped for drinks and a chat at the pub at Rhyd Ddu. - Iain, Derek, Frank, James, Jim, John, Kate, Lester, Lorna, Margaret, Virginia.

Snowdon from the hut via the Snowdon Ranger/ Rhyd Ddu path - Mark and Michelle. They enjoyed a grandstand view of the Snowdon International Mountain Race.

Camping

Some members camped to avoid the snores but were kept awake by the all night Rave Party in Llanberis - still going strong at 5am on Sunday morning.

On Saturday evening we had a birthday celebration for Bob, Derek and Iain. Twenty seven members and guests enjoyed a fine three course meal accompanied by beer, wine and soft drinks followed by birthday cake, prepared by Pam.

Thanks are due to Margaret whose red currants added the finishing touch to the melons, to Elaine for the brisket and to Pam who provided the ham, the birthday cake and organised the meal. Thanks are also due to the willing army of assistants.

A collection for the Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team organised by Michelle raised £70.


August 1st - The Roaches - Dave Wylie

Members, Guests, Friends of Guests and miscellaneous Hangers On: Kevin Anderson, Mark Ashley, Christine Beeston, Ken Beetham, Hermione Berthels, John Berthels, Sabina Cosulich, John Cox, Trish Cranston, Dan Creber, Roger Daley, Dave Dillon, Roger Dyke, Martin Heaton, Alan (L) Jones, Lester Payne, Dave Shotton, Kate Smith, Kate Sparks, Jackie Storbeck, Shane Storbeck, Zoe Talks, Dave Wylie.

Apologies if there are any omissions or errors in the above list - having headed up to the Skyline area, the meet leader didn't manage to see everyone who arrived after about 11:30am.

This was a "meet with a mission". The Roaches is one of the crags that has some KMC history associated with it. A total of 15 or 16 routes, depending how pedantic you want to be (see below), were put up by members of the KMC in the early days of the Club. The meet leader's idea was to ensure that all of these routes were climbed by current members of the Club in this, our 60th anniversary year.

The complete list of KMC routes at the Roaches is as follows:

DateRouteGradeLengthStarsWho
2/05/1945Bilberry TraverseVS 4a 35m RDS,GS
6/05/1945Pinnacle Arete VS 4c 6m* RDS,GS
6/05/1945Karabiner ChimneyVD 12m* RDS,GS
6/05/1945Karabiner Cracks M 12m AS,RDS
6/05/1945Tower Chimney D 18m* AS,RDS
6/05/1945Slab and Arete HS 4a 18m***GS,RDS
7/05/1945Central Massif HD 15m GS,RDS
1945Demon Wall HS 4b 15m ABB
1945Beckermet Slab VD 15m* ABB
1945Maud's Garden VD 21m** ABB
1945Broken Slab HS 4b 12m ABB
1945Rotunda Buttress VS 4c 18m ABB
1945Technical Slab HS 4a 23m** ABB
6/10/1946Valkyrie VS 4b,4c38m***(PH),ABB
1947Mantleshelf Slab VS 4a 10m* KMC
195?Karabiner Slab VS 4c 12m KMC

Key to First Ascentionists:
RDS =R. Desmond-Stevens
GS =G. Stoneley
AS =Alan Simpson
ABB =A. Bowden Black
(PH)=Peter Harding (not a KMC member)
KMC =Un-named Karabiner Mountaineering Club members

One of the above routes, Valkyrie, is only "half" KMC, as Peter Harding (the leader on the first ascent) was not actually a KMC member. However, our very own Bowden Black was there in 1946 as Peter was trying to work his way up through uncharted territory. Bowden suggested the line: down the flake, round the buttress and up to the top. The man holding Peter's ropes didn't like the look of this and so Bowden had to take over and second the route. All this provides the justification for the KMC having a claim on the line, bringing our total up from 15 to 16 routes.

Many of those present on the meet climbed several of "our" routes, but one man had decided to make it a personal goal to climb all of the routes himself. Yes, you've guessed it, this was Kevin. He managed to climb all 16 of them, soloing several (even when somebody else was half way up the route!).

As always, the perceived difficulty and quality of a route does not always match up with the grade or number of stars given in a guide book. The above list corresponds with the latest BMC "Staffordshire Grit - Roaches" guide book. However, the opinions of those who climbed the routes on this meet were very different in some cases...

Karabiner Chimney is described as "Pleasant right to the very end". This is, quite literally, true: the route is fine up to the particularly ungainly end move. The climb was led by Dave W. and seconded by Christine. A choice of various "traditional" techniques (jamming, laybacking, etc.) are required on the way up. Escape from the top of the route, at which point the climber is wedged in the final section of chimney, was finally achieved by thrutching. This may well have been easier if traditional garb had been worn: tweeds would probably provide more friction. Kevin managed to solo the route without a shirt on, yet he kept most of the skin on his back. This makes the meet leader suspect that he must have cheated, by using some inappropriate "modern" techniques. Slightly later a non KMC climber was observed to be in-situ on the final move for about half an hour, before being rescued by his friends who used a top-rope to haul him up out of the chimney.

Karabiner Cracks provided an opportunity for Kate Sparks to try her hand at leading for the first time. The guidebook grade may have been appropriate, but a solar powered strimmer might have been useful. Evidently this route does not get much traffic!

Pinnacle Arete was led by Dave D. as well as by Kevin (though did he really climb the arete, or just the adjacent slab?). Several others followed up the route, including Trish who was sampling her first VS climbing, her second taste being "Aqua", a non-KMC route.

Tower Chimney proved to be "interesting", climbed in trainers by Dave W. and Mark (who were both averse to putting on their rock boots for a mere Diff). Traditional Big Boots would probably have been even better, particularly as it would have enabled the leader to have aimed a larger kick at Kevin, who overtook him half way up.

Maud's Garden is always worthwhile and saw many ascents on the day, both by KMC members and other climbers. Beckermet Slab, however, had fewer people on it, mainly as they seemed to be baffled by the first few moves. Central Masif received an ascent from Roger Dyke and Dave S.

Valkyrie, the "half KMC" route, was the last one to be climbed by the Club on this meet. Kevin and Sabina were last seen at the start of the second pitch, as most of the others headed off to the pub. The meet leader later received confirmation that they finished off the route, to completed the full list of "our" climbs on the crag.

Many other (non KMC) routes were also climbed during the day, including: Right Route, Heather Wall, Pinnacle Crack, Tealeaf Crack, Aqua, etc., but these are all obviously inferior to any of those put up by our own Club!

This was an excellent day, climbing amazing routes at a superb crag, with sunny weather (though some people STILL managed to complain, as it was "too hot") and good company. Many thanks to everybody who came out, I hope you all enjoyed yourselves!


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