Karabiner Mountaineering Club

May 2006 Forthcoming Meets

All note the following small print when taking part in meets :-

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."

May 13^th/14^th - Hut Working Party - James Richardson

James will no doubt find plenty to do for all volunteers!

May 20^th/21^st - Buttermere camping - Dave Bish (for Michelle Harvie)

Meet leader Dave Bish kindly standing in for Michelle (who will sadly most likely be in London / Berkshire, to attend her book launch, which seems a fair excuse, though she professes to rather be in the Lakes. Hope the book goes well - signed copies for the KMC? Ed)

The plan is to camp at Syke Farm (Tel. Mrs. Anne Kyle 017687 70222) located behind the Fish Hotel in Buttermere (G 173 170 OS 89 West Cumbria). Cost is £5.00 per person /night. The campsite does not take advance bookings but on arrival you need to book in at Syke Farm, on the left just down from the church.

The site is conveniently 2 minutes from the nearest pub and bar meal (Fish hotel /Bridge Hotel).

Buttermere has plenty for everyone, scrambling on Honister Crag, climbing on Grey crag, Eagle Crag, High crag, amongst others. Great walking over Haystacks, High Crag, High Style and Red Pike, Grasmoor. There is always the chance to dip in Crummock Water or Buttermere (someone has to pick up Michelle's mantle after all). For more information or to book in please contact Dave Bish.

May 27^th/29^th - Not the Curry Meet - John Evans

For various reasons, not least of which being the fact that the crag which translates as the "Black Cliff of the Black Height" has not been in good condition (for individuals lacking in skill, courage and application such as myself) for all three previous attempts, this year's Cloggy/Curry meet will be postponed to "High Summer" (that's what they call it at Pete's Eats anyway!) to coincide with the 'Hut Adventures' meet on 5 - 6 August.

Thus the second May Bank Holiday will simply be the usual free-for-all (unless intrepid cooks take matters into their own hands...). A more detailed promo (and Menu!) will appear in the course of the summer - the usual array of spicy and/or aromatic creations will be available.

Meanwhile rumours that the chief protagonist of previous Curry Meets was roundly admonished by his General Practitioner last June for the manifold wrongs he had inflicted upon his alimentary canal continue to circulate...

Watch this space!

June 3^rd/4^th - Mid Wales Climbing - Sabina Cosulich, Sheena Hendrie

Meet at a Campsite GR735187 (Landranger 124) either Friday night or Saturday morning (my 'encyclopaedic' knowledge of campsites was unable to supply a name for the site, never having been there, but it's just to the East of Dolgellau. Ed).

The plan is to climb on Cader Idris on Saturday (walking up from car park at GR698152, heading for Cyfrwy area), and then on Craig Cywarch on Sunday, probably somewhere around Tap y Craig (please try to share cars).

The area offers good possibilities for walking, climbing and mountain biking. We will be taking gear to cover all eventualities!

June 10^th/11^th - Trowbarrow/Warton - Dave Bish

Sun, sea, sand, woods and limestone! A weekend of classic routes of all grades in a magic little corner of Lancashire just one hour out of Manchester by car (M6 J35). For the environmental tick you can even get to the heart of the two climbing venues direct by train (Take a train to Silverdale Station) so there's no excuse. The Gibraltar Farm campsite (good map) will be the base for operations - it is alongside Jack Scout cove which is a pleasant evening climbing sea cliff venue and a nice spot to watch the sun go down over Morecombe Bay for a barbie (Friday fight anyone?).

Saturday will be the crumbly but accessible and impressively big Warton Main Quarry (subject to nesting - there is a sign up) where you can wave at drivers on the M6 as you grunt up Plastic Iceberg *** E1 5b or alternatively eosoterica such as Warton Upper (which kind of starts behind the pub!) or Woodwell (which is well... in a wood!).

Sunday will be the awesome Trowbarrow Quarry, home to many (too many to name) classics such as Cracked Actor E2 5b***, HariJan *** VS 4c or my own favourite: Coral Sea ** (H)VS 5a. There really is something dor everyone in this suntrap (did I mention *** Jomo VD) and apparently the main wall is about to fall down (they've beein saying that for 20 years!) so there has never been a better time to get there than this June with the KMC.

If you're sold on the trip, the soundtrack to the weekend: "Alladin Sane" is available on RCA records.

June 17^th/18^th - Gogarth Climbing - Rob Allen

It's over a year since there's been a meet at Gogarth, so it's time we re-visited these wonderful cliffs. For those who want a more relaxed venue there's always Holyhead mountain - either way, you get a tick. The plan is to:

1. Fill cars up at the Hut on Saturday morning
2. Climb all day
3. Return to the Hut in the evening knackered but happy
4. On Sunday repeat 1) and 2) then return home

June 24^th/25^th - Around Kinder (attempt 2) - James Richardson

Our second attempt to do a route on every crag on Kinder in a single weekend.

Preferred Start:

Top of Snake Pass, small walk in, do Northern Edge first and head to Edale for beers in the evening. Possibility of free taxi for camping gear from Snake Pass to Edale for you. Those made of harder stuff will choose to sleep out under the stars.

Alternative Start:

If no car drivers are going or if people are concerned about leaving their cars on top of Snake Pass overnight, we will then start from Edale train station.

Crags to climb at:

Nether Tor
Nose Climb (S), Moneylenders Crack (VS 5a), Flash Wall (VS 5a), Bertie Meets Flash Gordon on his way to Nether Tor (E1 5b).

500m to Upper Tor
Hikers Crack (S 4a), Upper Tor Wall (HS 4b), The Ivory Tower (HVS 5b)

1.5km to Crowden Clough Face
Chimney and Slab Variations (VD), Central Route (VS 4c), Asparagus (E1 5b)

250m to Crowden Towers
Alpine Sports (S 4a), Fashion Statement (E3 5c)

250m to The Pagoda
Morrison's Route (S 4a), Herford's Route (HVS 5a)

1km to Upper Edale Rocks
Bending Crack (VD), Pencil Slim (VS 4c)

2.5kmKinder Downfall
Zig Zag (VD), Mermaids Ridge (HS 4b,4c) (extra points for Kinder Downfall (M) if its in full flow).

1km to Upper Western Buttress
South Wall (VD), Extinguisher Chimney (VS 4c), The Dark Side of the Moon (E3 5c).

quick ½Km stroll across top or 2km walk around the edge to the start of Ashop Edge and

Ashop Edge, Twisted Smile Buttress and Mustard Wall
Jester Cracks (VS 4c/HVS 5a), Twisted Smile (HVS 5a), Candle in the Wind (E3 5c).

within the next 2km

Ashop Edge, Brothers Buttresses
Sliding Chimney (S 4a, Scumbag?), Legacy (HVS 5a), Intestate (HVS 5b/E1 5b).

Ashop Edge, Eureka Buttress
Ashop Climb (HVD), Roman Roads (HS 4b), Eureka (VS 4c)

Fairbrook Naze Area, Misty Wall
Misty Wall (S/MVS 4b/VS 4b)

If you still have strength head across the clough to Chinese Wall.

Speak to me on the Thursday before for final details. Looking forward to sunshine and ungreen gritstone!

July 1^st/2^nd - Duddon Valley Climbing - Sheena Hendrie

Meet at Turner Hall Farm Campsite GR234964 (Outdoor Leisure 6) either Friday night or Saturday morning. The campsite is relatively basic; the Newfield Inn is an option for a meal/beer on Saturday evening.

Depending on weather the plan is to climb on Dow on Saturday (walking up from the Duddon via the Walna Scar road since this is meant to be a Duddon meet), and then on Wallowbarrow on Sunday.

What actually happens may vary from the plan, either reversing order of visiting crags, or turning the Dow outing into a walk/mountain bike trip.

July 8^th/9^th - Welsh Sun Rock (Ty Powdwr) - Dan O'Brien

Now I've got this one in early so there are no excuses. The weather has been ordered off the Met Office and the sun will indeed have his hat on as well as all his climbing gear. So bring your sun cream and shades and prepare to tick all those routes you never thought you would get done in Wales because the weather is always rubbish. For the unimaginative amongst you, here are a few suggestions.

Craig Yr Ysfa for Amphitheatre Buttress (960ft VDiff) Great Gully (725ft VDiff) and Mur y Niwl (250ft VS). Or for the hardcore amongst us Llech Ddu offers The Groove and The Great Corner at E1 and E2 respectively.

Depending on how good the weather is a bivouac might be in order but I thing we will have to gauge the mood of the party on Friday to decide.

Hope to see you all there.

July 15^th/16^th - Langdale - Roger Daley

The Great Langdale Valley is guarded by the dominating Langdale Pikes, and is a walker's and climber's dream come true, and according to the Fell and Rock guide book "contains perhaps the best concentration of south-facing crags in the Lakes".

Climbing

There is a range of grades and walk-ins to entice all. A thirty minute approach will bring you to Scout or White Ghyll Crags. However, the promise of blue skies and classics routes will surely draw you higher to Pavey Ark and Gimmer, to give a fine mountain day.

Walking/Scrambling

For those wishing to walk / scramble there are excellent possibilities; how about the Langdale Pikes via Pavey Ark and Jack's Rake. Still plenty of energy then continue on to Bowfell, Crinkle crags and (legs permitting) Pike O'Blisco. This round will allow you to fully appreciate a pint at the Old Dungeon Ghyll.

All this and accommodation at the coveted FRCC Raw Head Hut, Raw Head, Great Langdale, for £4.00 per night, grid ref: NY304067, surely an opportunity which is too good to miss this summer. 12 places have been reserved; 8 Male and 4 Female.

To secure a place, please contact me via E-Mail, at home, or on my mobile.

July 22^nd/23^rd - KMC Family Meet (Ty Powdwr) - Bridget Mapleson

NOTE: CHANGE OF DATE

A change of date from the previously stated date 29th July weekend - thank you to Heather for swapping her meet with us.

A weekend of activities with future moutaineers in mind. It would be great to see as many people as possible but please do not feel restricted to the suggested programme, which is as follows:

Saturday will be a walk with the objective of reaching a summit by an interesting route but with an option of playing in a lake or river should the weather/inclanation dictate. Very poor weather = the Beacon centre.

Sunday fun climbing and picnic at Little Tryfan (routes range from Diff to 4 x Sev!) again weather permitting.

There will be rice, dahl, veg curry or pasta/tomatoe sauce provided on Saturday evening so if you wish to partake please let us know at least a week before the date.

July 30^th - Dovestones Edge - Heather Brooke

NOTE: CHANGE OF DATE

This year I have decided to go very local, as least for me, and I'm heading to Dovestones Edge.

As Dovestones is one of the classic gritstone crag with the superbly exposed setting and grades ranging from Diff to E5, everyone should find something to try.

I will be arriving at the Binn Green Car park at about 9.30am, with hopes to leave asap, and be arriving at Nasal buttress area of the crag for about 10am.

The Binn Green car park is past the entrance for Dovestones reservoir just off the A635. From here descend to the private road, cross over the dam and follow the stream to tunnel and make a steep direct ascend to cliff. Alternatively park at Dovestones Reservoir Car park, which is pay and display, walk around the southern edge of reservoir, cross the stream and follow path that slopes up the hill from Chew Brook bridge, passing the quarries before heading to cliff above.

September 9^th/10^th - Gogarth and Birthday - Scott Sadler

Everyone loves Gogarth. If you don't, then you will after this meet!

As is usual with the first couple of weeks of September, the weather will be perfect. The plan is to get an early start in Wen Zawn and get a couple of classics ticked before heading to the Main cliff for more classics. After a route here I plan on walking back over to Castell Hellen via the ice cream van. When we have worn through the skin on our fingers and rubber on our feet we can head back to the hut for a well-earned drink. It will be my Birthday at Midnight so please join me to celebrate the start of the final year in my twenties.

Depending on what time I drag my Lazy, Hung-over arse out of bed will decide whether I go to Rhoscolyn or Llanberis pass. Either way there's loads of stuff to do.

May Newsletter Index.

Copyright © 2006 Karabiner Mountaineering Club