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Karabiner Mountaineering Club

May 2006 Meet Reports


February 19th - North Pennines Walk - Jim Gregson

Supported by: James Hartley, John Castick, Virginia Castick, Sandy Gregson & Jim Gregson.

This excellent walk went exactly to plan despite a slightly fog-affected approach drive.

James was introduced to some of the best landscape in the true North of England and Virginia wore rather more clothing layers than the temperature really demanded at times. True, there was a short interlude when snow actually fell - note for younger readers: this is what in English is called 'winter'. The shooting cabin provided a bracing spot for lunch before the walk via Maize Beck to High Cup Nick. By the time we got there, the sun was shining brightly and we could fully appreciate the great views across to the Yorkshire Dales, the Howgill Fells and the snow-decked Lake District mountains. A slippery descent into High Cup then led us comfortably down, and thence back to Dufton. Convivial company and varied conversation helped to make for a very enjoyable day out.


March 5th - Peak District Walk - Iain McCallum

Members present : Mike Graves, Bob Haynes, Martin Heaton, Alan (H) Jones, Alan (L) Jones, Iain McCallum, Lorna Marsland, Alan Peck, Derek Seddon, Zoe Talks, Peter Walker, Keith Williams, Dave Wylie.

A glorious day for a walk around the Edale valley. Snow on the hills and lots of sunshine. Our start was delayed due to railway construction work at Hope Station.

An extremely large crane occupied the car park and there were several very long trailers parked on the approach road. Because we could not cross the railway by the station we had to tramp along the road to Aston. Near to Aston Hall we struck off the road and climbed the hillside by the path leading to the summit of Winhill Pike. Here we stopped for a bite and drink. From the top the panoramic view of the Dark and White Peak was superb. After a short descent we headed along the ridge to Hope Cross. By the time we reached the Cross we were well spread out so we stopped to re-group. Alan (H), Bob and Derek had gone back Winhill to try and find some gear which Derek had lost so we decided carry on without them. Soon we passed Crookstone Barn and followed the track up Crookstone Hill to gain the Scout's Southern edge. The track contouring the edge was plastered in snow, which made the going difficult at times. On reaching the path below Ringing Roger dropped down to Edale through hordes of fellow walkers. We lunched in Cooper's Cafe as the Old Nags Head was closed for refurbishment.

Here we were joined by Alan (J), Peter and Martin (and Alex. aged 2). Zoe left and Martin joined the team.

Leaving Edale we crossed Grinds Brook and tramped across the valley fields towards Hollins Cross. Near Peter Barn we had to negotiate a herd of cattle and a morass before climbing the hillside up to Hollins Cross. Turning East we headed along the ridge towards Back Tor and Lose Hill. Below Back Tor the team split. Alan (J) and Peter taking the low road below the ridge. At this point Martin returned to Edale to sort out a problem with his car, which had refused to start for Zoe. After ascending Back Tor and Lose Hill we all dropped down to the road near the Cheshire Cheese and so back to Hope Station. We finished off the day with tea and scones in a cafe in Hope. Later Mike Graves (technical assistant) advised me that we had walked 13.25 miles and ascended 3,105ft.

Thank you all for your support.


March 11th/12th - Black Rock Cottage - Andrew Croughton (stand in leader!)

MEMBERS PRESENT: Colin Madison, Craig Marsden, Brian Street, Ann Sanderson, Bridget Mapleson, Roger Daley, Dave Bish, Andrew Croughton (Acting meet leader).

Member NOT present: David (Nancy Scottish boy) Lygate.

Guest NOT present: Jim (Nancy Scottish boy's chauffeur).

Saturday 11th

Colin & Craig set off bright and early to the Ben & Coire Na Ciste, and in the words of the brave duo themselves, they have never expended so much energy in not climbing a route, and seldom as much energy on a route.

Colin actually used up so much energy he was actually seen to be running at one point, although it has to be said that he was running away from the mountain and heading for the nearest cafe in Fort William.

Ann & Bridget also made an early start heading for the Mamores, at the head of Glen Nevis, and the Ring of Steall in search of the Dave Lygate memorial cairns, left by Dave on his previous visit. Unfortunately they found themselves unwitting heroines aiding the rescue of a damsel in distress who had taken a tumble down the hill. The lady in question, Louise Frederick, had fallen about 30 feet suffering from badly dented confidence and mild shoulder damage. Whilst awaiting her walking companions, Mike Wicks and Lillian McDonald, all members of the Heriot Watt University & Queen Margaret College Mountaineering Club, Ann & Bridget helped calm her nerves and comfort her.

After all this excitement the weather once again proved less inviting than the local tea shops and, after the first summit An Gearanach, they too headed down and ran for the comfort of the Nevis sport cafe. (since the event, the club has been contacted to pass thanks on to the trusty duo, Ed)

Roger & Dave again made an early start, but headed for the Lost Valley Minor Buttress area.

After attempting to climb the routes via the avalanche debris, they found the snow in the gulley petered out and they too headed back down, off the hill.

Although this time much later in the day and in the direction of the hut via the local Spar for provision, the plastic bags not being any where near as substantial as the bags they used to have when the store was a Mace. (What is the world coming to?) Brian & I opted for the more relaxed approach, getting up at our leisure and having a late breakfast at the hut, before strolling across the road to the Kingshouse Hotel and the clag laden Corbett of Beinn a'Chrúlaiste.

After following the military road as far as the Lagangarbh Hut we headed up the west ridge of Beinn a'Chrúlaiste itself onto the plateau summit and the wonderful views across to Glen Etive and Glencoe, all of which looked surprisingly white with white edges and a surprisingly cold wind chill to them, that's Scottish winters for you.

After fighting our way off the summit plateau, missing the obvious ridge descent in the mist, and having to circle around the bottom of the ridge to regain the descent path alongside the burn, we found ourselves back at the Kingshouse sampling the aptly named Nimbus Ale - even in the pub there was no escape from the clag outside.

Sunday 12th

It had snowed heavily overnight, four foot drifts of snow blocking the access road to the hut and the A82, which was closed to traffic in both directions.

After two hours digging we managed to clear the track enough to enable the cars to get away from the hut.

The A82 was now open in the direction of Glencoe Village, though traffic was not being allowed from Glencoe across the Rannoch Moor, and those heading back today made a dash for it.

Ten minutes after the six other members of the party had left for the arduous nine hour journey home, the doors to the hut burst open and an unfamiliar face appeared seeking refuge from the biting cold winds and driving snow. Close on his heals came his wife who after having been turned back on the Rannoch Moor road had decided to take a short walk up to the Grey Corries Ski Lodge before once more heading back via Oban to their home town of Edinburgh.

Unfortunately the wind blowing into her face had brought on a rather severe asthma attack and she could continue no further. Brian acted as host brewing a very welcome cup of tea for the weary travellers and helping them back on their way.

It has to be said the English being so hospitable to the Scots on their home soil is not well known, especially after such a humiliating defeat at Murreyfield in the Calcutta Cup during last weekends six nations championship, what is the world coming too? The excitement over all that was left to do was to keep the fire burning, sit out the weather and wait for the pub to open.

Unfortunately the weather held out longer than we did, the next two days remaining cold, wet and windy with very poor visibility, so that our only option was to sit out the weather waiting for opening time at the Kingshouse.

That's all that can be said about the weekend's activities but whatever the forecast it is always worth the effort to travel to Scotland. You never know what might occur, be it unexpected blue skies heavy snow fall or the opportunity to rescue fellow walkers either on the hill or in the comfort of a nice warm hut. Let's hope for an even better winter for 2007,


March 19th - Yorkshire Bouldering - Dan O'Brien

Members Present: Scott Sadler, Duncan Lee, Vicky Alderton, Dave Wylie, Dan O'Brien.

Guests Present: Graham Hasselhurst, Richard Challinor, Carl Pulley and two of Carl's friends who's names I accidentally deleted.

Bouldering Terminology: Highball [hi'i baw'll] (adj) : A problem that thinks its a route.

After a late start the fun and games got underway. Carl and Scott headed off in the direction of Demon Wall (HVS) and a severe spanking while the rest of us descended to the lower tier for similar punishment. After a warm up on a lovely traverse with rounded holds (End Wall apparently) several team members made ascents of the classic, slightly-highball* Morrel's Wall(6a). After a short rest, to allow forearms to recover, the team attempted the "Three Swings Traverse". Although not the hardest problem we had attempted it certainly made up for it in length (~90ft). Most memorable would be the "Swings" themselves as the all involve feet-free moves at an alarming height off the ground. My arms were calling for another rest.

Next, a direct route through "Three Swings" was climbed by Duncan and myself. This I would describe as quite-highball** and certainly got the heart pounding. The team then moved over to the "Lower-Man" area in the hope of finding milder sport, but to no avail. By this time Scott and Carl had returned. Scott joined us bouldering whilst Carl started up "Whiskey Crack". The intrepid meet leader then attempted an ascent of the "classic" albeit very-highball*** "Matterhorn Arete". At about three-quarters height, Duncan (ever helpful) points out that I was higher off the ground than Carl was and he had two bits of gear in. As I topped out Scott shouted something about "Not scaring him like that again!" I didn't quite catch it. The day was rounded off with some slightly less harrowing problems to dispatch the last of our fingertips and at 5ish the rain started and stopped play, which coincided with the cows returning to reclaim the crag from the climbers. Carl and co managed one more route under full "Cow Assault" before beating a hasty retreat. A good time had by all.

*Something you wouldn't want to fall off.
**No seriously now, don't fall off.
***Almost certain death, equivalent to Derbyshire E5.


March 26th - Rob's Rocks - Mark Ashley

Robinson's Rocks - I suggested this crag after climbing here last year in the sun, on dry rock, about this time of year. This year the weather had different ideas. The coldest and snowiest March for 30 years meant the rock was green and slimy.

When I left home it did not look that bad despite the showers the day before - arriving at the crag it was dry. Coming up the track I saw 3 black Range-rovers with tinted windows - was my meet going to be hijacked by some gangster-rapper climbers? No, it was Oldham Mountain Rescue in some cars blagged from a sponsor for the weekend.

Routes done:

Owt (M), N'owt, (M), Cripple's Way (VD), Letter Box (HD) and Zacharias (VD).

Marks:

Peter Walker, 1 tick for touching the rock, ditto Julie O'Regan.

Mike Hunting 2 ticks, Jim Symon, 2 ticks and a star for running to the meet, climbing and running home.

Karen Kennedy and Trish Cranston, 2 ticks and ½ a star (lost ½ a star for messing up their clocks and being late).

Dan O'Brien, 2 ticks and a star for volunteering to lead the climbs, saving my hands from the slime.

Dave Dillon, 2 ticks and a Gold star for belaying four people in the rain.

The rain stopped play about 3pm, thanks to all who came,


April 2nd - Hotpot Slide Show & outdoor activities - Andy Croughton, Heather Brooke, Jenny Varley

The Walk

Members present, Dave Bish, Roger Daley, Joe Flynn, Dave Wylie, Iain McCalum, Alan Peck, Linda Crossley, Karen, Brian Street, Andrew Croughton.

Guest, Sarah.

Not much I can say about this meet really, it took place and was very enjoyable.

It was a wet and wild day that didn't deter the hardy group from eating ice creams, drinking beer and taking shelter when the rain stopped, in order to have food and drink.

Not sure if this was a walk or a social gathering now. A big thank you to those who braved the weather and completed the circuit almost as planned despite the horrendous conditions. Lets hope for better weather this summer.

The "Climb" - Castle Naze

Members Present: Dan O'Brien, Heather Brooke, Mark Ashley.

Guests Present: Graham Hasselhurst, Neil (journalist guy, sorry), Tim Howarth, Rhian Blade, Laura Bond.

Scene #1, Castle Naze. Weather looked awful and the wind was howling, but our enthusiasm would not be dampened. So with the barest minimum of dragging we arrived at the crag to find that most of the routes were wet. The two dry routes at the far left of the crag ("Double Crack" and "The Arete") were ascended by each member of the team and after receiving a soaking on the belay at the top we retreated to the cars.

Scene #2, The Beehive. With the rain in we headed for the pub. There was a nice open fire and Graham enjoyed Gammon and Eggs. The mistake was made when someone spotted in the guidebook that New Mills Tor would probably be dry in this weather. We abandoned the warm comfort of the pub and headed out into the maelstrom again.

Scene #3, New Mills Tor. Not quite as dry as we had hoped. The wind had been blowing the rain under the protective canopy of the road bridge and soaking the routes underneath. Seepage was moistening everything else. Undeterred, Heather began working a long traverse on the dryer part of the wall, Mark and Neil headed off in the direction of a grotty looking corner whilst Tim and myself attempted original route (VD). The rain by now was battering down ("Why on earth is he still going up?" - Tim) and I was pleased to hear that only one extra person wanted to second the route thus prolonging my misery on the tree belay. An abseil descent followed by a second retreat, to a second pub, followed by a third retreat, to a third pub and a lovely slide-show.

The Slide Show

This year's photo competition/slideshow had the benefit of a fantastic judge who not only carefully considered all entries, but honoured us with his charming presence on the night to present the slideshow. There was lots of quality as usual, and he had a very difficult job choosing the winners.

The photo competition/slideshow winners are as follows:

Rock Action
Winner: James Bouldering at Wimberry by David Bish.

Mountain Action
Winner: Lliwedd by David Bish
Close 2nd: Untitled slide by Colin Maddison.

Mountain Landscape
Winner: Untitled slide by Duncan Lee.
Close 2nd: Lliwedd View by Sean Kelly.

Human Interest
Winner: Untitled slide by Colin Maddison.

These pictures can be seen in the gallery

Both myself and the judge were a bit disappointed that there weren't more really funny human interest photos this year, so get busy with those shots for next year, the sillier the better!

Thanks go to Alan (H) Jones and Kevin Anderson for their efforts on the projectors. And Al Metelko for providing the emergency last minute judging venue!

(The awards are not being treated with the reverence they deserve? Apparently someone left their Cup / Award from the slide competition behind at the Swan. It is behind the bar awaiting collection by Sabina (kindly). Ed)


May Newsletter Index.


Copyright © 2006 Karabiner Mountaineering Club

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