Karabiner Mountaineering Club

July 2006 Meet Reports

May 7^th - Pennine Rock - Dave Dillon

Present - Trish Cranston, Dave Wylie, Dave Dillon.

Bumped into - Mike Graves.

The day started off with rain and then more rain, in Manchester at least. Set off, feeling the 'guilt of the meet leader' pressed heavily on the shoulders, otherwise wouldn't have got out of bed.

Still looking dank in Hayfield, as parked up near the bacon butty van. No actual technical rain, at this point. Tottered up Williams Clough through a patch of light drizzle. Crested the col and bumped into DW, come over from the other side. Headed up onto Kinder and Mill Hill rocks, which were dry, bone dry. Seems there's some bizarre weather system forming clouds on the Hayfield side of Kinder, filling the entire Cheshire plain with nasty weather. Anyway, we bouldered our way along to the downfall, revelling on this strip of dry land perched on the edge of the weathery abyss. Found MG leading a party of aspirants up and over Kinder.

I must confess that rain did get us at about six o'clock back down in Hayfield. Hey, you can't win them all.

May 13^th/14^th - Working Meet - James Richardson

Present: John Castick, Ian McCallum, James Richardson, David Whittingham and Dave Wylie.

Thank you to those who attended, we managed to achieve a lot with such a small group. Working included:

• Tiding the store room
• Re-rendering the gas store
• Moving slate from entrance
• A decent cleaning session

The more observant of you will notice that of the 5 attendees, 4 were current or previous hut managers.

On the Sunday Dave Whittingham and I avoided the rain at Betws-y-Coed crags. I believe everyone else did a runner back to Manchester.

May 20^th/21^st - Buttermere Camping - Michelle Harvie (original & official leader)

Present Michelle Harvie, Mark Garrod, Pete Leeson, Midge & John Castick.

Not present: The rest of the KMC who had seen the weather forecast. (Believe me, I was eager to climb there but was still waiting for Spring! Ed.)

Mark & I arrived on Saturday morning just in time for the rain to stop & the clouds to lift from the Buttermere Crags. Recent heavy rains dampened our climbing & gill scrambling aspirations, but we enjoyed a lovely circuit of Crummock Water, taking in Low bank, the arrestingly beautiful bluebell fields of Rannerdale & an ascent of Mellbreak. The weather improving as the day went on.

Socialite Pete had engagements in Keswick on Saturday night, while the rest of us enjoyed the warmth & hospitality of the Fish Inn.

Sunday started with sunshine & shorts but we knew it was not set to last. Mark & I headed off over Whiteless Pike, Wandope, Grasmoor, Crag Hill, and back over Knott Rigg and Newland's Hause in time for the rain to return while Midge & John fitted in an ascent of Knott Rigg and an apparently tedious traverse back to Newland's Hause.

Thanks to Pete, Midge John & Mark for your company and enjoying a great window of weather with me. We will have to return on a sunny weekend to get on those crags.

(The stand in leader, Dave Bish and other KMC climbers were met on the Manchester Climbing Wall on Sunday by the Ed, forming the alternative meet. All had given up on the idea of going to the Lakes, and judging by the wall being more crowded than I've seen it in Winter, most of Manchester had given up on outdoor climbing for the time being!)

June 3^rd/4^th - Mid Wales Climbing - Sheena Hendrie & Sabina Cosulich

Present: Sabina Cosulich, Sheena Hendrie, Craig and Sue Marsden, Colin Maddison, Scott Sadler, Rob Allen, Robert Clark, John Dobson, Kevin Anderson, Bob Astles, Peter Schofield, Anne Sanderson.

Guests: Steve Powell, Roisin Maddison, Thomas Marsden, Ian Greenaway, Steve Bowker.

By a pure stroke of luck (not navigational skills), one of the meet leaders managed to find the campsite which turned out to be very pleasant and run by a very friendly (!) Welsh farmer. The other meet leader eventually (after a few phone calls) found the campsite and managed to time her arrival perfectly to be handed a piece of BBQ chicken and a glass of wine on stepping out of the car.

The two meet leaders had ordered uninterrupted sunshine for the whole weekend and that is exactly what they got. On Saturday morning, in beautiful sunshine, due to lack of planning, thought, navigational skills, general ability, etc, we managed to go climbing on the North (!) facing crags on Cader Idris, where we struggled through the scree (crux move) to reach the foot of the crag and find Bob Astles and Pete Schofield waiting for the youngsters to catch up. Wearing full winter gear (due to "cooling" breeze), we managed NOT to find a few routes, but climbed 'Obsession' and Cyrfrwy Arete. Young Thomas Marsden completed his first multi pitch route, whilst others on the meet were much wiser and enjoyed sketching and biking in the sunshine. More BBQ food and wine was consumed, and, thanks to Kevin having forgotten his guitar, we all enjoyed a beautiful evening.

The next morning, climbing was delayed significantly by the Welsh farmer chatting to Kevin (or was it the other way around?). Most of us decided to go and climb on Craig Cywarch, where at least some of the routes would be in the sunshine. More routes were NOT found, Sabina and Sheena creatively wandered up the crag to complete the best part of two multi-pitch routes (in one), whilst Rob and Robert tried desperately to divert the meet to a tearoom. Routes climbed included: Will-o'-Wisp, Bluebell Babylon, Mud Slide Slim, Acheron.

Many thanks to all those who came.

Sabina and Sheena

June 10^th/11^th - Silverdale Weekend - Dave Bish

Preface

I dunno about the KMC; you lay on the hottest day of the year and still they complain! At least the keenness of "Thursday" John, a prospective member withstood even the Friday night baptism of fire in the "World Cup Gazebo" amidst Carling cans, scally SUVs and the public defecation display of chubby chav kiddies at the Gibraltar farm campsite-by-the-sea on Friday evening.

Our small crew broke out the red wine and barbie, circled our tents against the heathen and dreamed up plans for the morning...

Happily though, Saturday's dawn chorus of tubby 8 year olds with attitude in pink flock tracksuits ensured an early start for all and we even beat Roger Daley to the crag!

Trowbarrow: A crag that needs no introduction - even managing to live up to its reputation as a suntrap by 9 in the morning. So, to introduce "Thursday" John to Lancashire limestone, we romped up Ramp Ant (S 4a *) (while Wavey and Trish began with the initially bold Jomo (VD ***). These became the first routes of choice for most people including Duncan's friends: Pippa and Tjark, and Anne and Ian.

The camper's numbers being steadily swelled by a stream of KMC arrivals through the morning, Roger and Karen added Original Route (VD *) to the ticklist, followed by a solo Metelko acent.

In the far corner of the crag lies the classic Coral Sea (VS 4c **). Its day began with a coolish ascent for Al Metelko and Jenny, with Vicky taking Duncan up the same way a warmer hour or so later. John Cox made the third lead of the day in the baking sun complete with ice cream lolly and silly sunglasses (second childhood?). Trish and Wavey followed before Al finished the day as he had started by seconding me (along with Katie) on the route.

Meanwhile, back on Main Wall (which still hasn't fallen down) I led Jean Jeanie (VS 4c ***) just before the sun hit it, leaving Katie, "Thursday" John and John Cox to slither up it in ever hotter conditions while Roger and Karen sought out cooler options climbing Frontage (HS 4a,4b) and Blue Daz (S 4a).

John Cox and I also did Frontage before it became clear that it was just too hot and someone had to get the ice-creams in.

By the time I had got back with said lollies, Duncan was half way up Jean Jeanie, promptly followed by Vicky, Pipp and Tjark. Al, sweetened by the bribe and Duncan's number 4 Camalot, led Alladinsane (E1 5a **) seconded by me and thirded by Karen.

Climbing continued on the routes mentioned with Duncan and Vicky also getting in Javellin (E1 5b **), and Sandy getting a rabbit somewhere along the line before the crew generally wilted and headed back to the campsite.

At Gibraltar farm our numbers (16) were swelled by Michelle and Mark who'd been mountain biking in the area during the day as well as Scott who had just come for the night - which really says a lot for the nightlife round his way. With barbies on the go, Roger's fish kebabs, Karen's balloon sculpted penguins, Mark's impossible wordsearch, Scott's ultimately immolated pipecleaner mountainbiker, a little champagne and Katie's warm refrigerator cake it was certainly an evening to remember...

After a brisk early morning run to check out both of the day's crags (future meet leaders please note the dedication here) culminating in a muddy sprawl back along Morecambe bay, the actual climbing began on Jack Scout Cove - just a Tesco-bag-full-of-rubbish's throw from the campsite.

Duncan soloed the first route of the day with Jackal (HS 4b *), traversing across to a twin bolt lower off from which the rope was hastily removed as the sea had already started to come in (tide tables anyone?). Roger and Karen followed the route lowering off before the traverse to avoid a swim. I, just behind, was by now committed to Brant's Little Brother (VS 4c **) moving along and up to a hanging belay above the sea from which Mark and I took a second pitch up into the grass by way of escape.

Meanwhile Wavey, Trish and Michelle had managed to avoid the tides on Question Mark (VD). While everyone else got a Jack Scout tick on Armada (S 4a *).

I took Andy Grantham (who had just got through on my phone before I dropped it in the sea!) and "Thursday" John up Whitebeam (VD) followed by Al (soloing again). We then repaired on foot to Woodwell via the Wolfe House tea rooms for a none-too-brief refreshment stop.

With abject enthusiasm Duncan and Vicky started things up in Woodwell, a pleasantly Tolkenian land of lichen fungus and ivy, with a 5c problem (Pussyfoot I think). They then proceeded to point people up other gnarly hard short routes (OK I'm bitter coz I couldn't do it!) with Vicky and I eventually leading Long Crack (4a) and Long Crack Groove (4a) later climbed by Roger Katie. Both Battenburg (4b) and Flake Crack (VD) were a hit with Roger Daley with Andy Grantham and "Thursday" John, Wavey with Trish and myself with Kate (I'm SURE Al soloed them both). Wavey and myself tried to emulate Duncan on the apparently aptly named Too Hard for Dave (6a) with my enthusiasm waning on the slopey mantley crimps after listening to the crunch Duncan's fingers made the second time he showed how it was done!

Despite the 100% shade, the dry heat was still getting through and the crew wilted once more as the afternoon wore on meaning that the really odd Tree Root, a bridge twixt tree and crag, is there to be done next time.

On the other side of Silverdale, Joe Flynn and Lester made it to Warton Upper crag (after a lucky escape from a man selling REALLY expensive monooculars!) where their foray included Yellow Wall (VD **) followed by what Joe thought might be a first ascent but turned out to be The Plum (S 4c).

So lots of heat, many happy campers and quite a lot of climbing at mid grades but did I mention the heat? Who would moan about that? Only the KMC.

Postscript

If you noticed a birthday bash theme (thanks to Katie for the "goody bags") on this meet, you'll be delighted to know that Roger Daley's 21st is remarkably close to his Langdale meet - so look forward to a quality evening at ODG/hut.

Finally I apologise to anyone who turned up at Trowbarrow or Warton and missed us on either crag as I did swap the day plans around from the original details.

June 24^th/25^th - Around Kinder Meet - James Richardson

Attended By: James Richardson, David Bish, Wavey, Roger Daley.

Saturday Visitors: New John/Thursday John/Bar-B-Q John (G), Joanne (G), Gary Cook (G).

Sunday Visitors: Mark Ashley, Anne Sanderson.

We all met at 10.30am on Saturday morning on the top of the Snake Pass in the drizzling rain to complete the daft plan of attempting to climb on every crag on Kinder Scout.

By the time we got to Mustard Walls the rain had stopped, the northern edge looked un-green and dry. Roger attempted to start Knapp Hand (HS 4b) while Dave attempted to start The Slice (HS 4b), both ended up doing alternative starts and we put the crag down to a bad starting place.

Somewhere that might have been the Brothers Buttresses (but wasn't) involved various solo's of an easy slab. Once we found Brothers Buttresses it involved a mass ascent of Barbara (VD *), the routes were improving. On Eureka Buttress Dave led Eureka (VS 4c ***) while Roger squirmed up Ashop Climb (HVD **).

Gary now had to head home to his son's birthday party while the rest of us headed off to Misty Wall. I lead Misty Wall (VS 4b? ***), while Dave lead people up a Cloudy Wall (VD) further left. Then Dave did Magic Wall (VS) which involved a struggle. John and Joanne now headed off home. John was happy that he had now learnt how to squirm and struggle. This was Joanne's first time out climbing, I hope I haven't put her off too much (she was still smiling at the end of the day despite a hole in her trousers).

The final four of us headed off to Chinese Wall for the last route of the day. Roger led Communist Route (VD) and Wavey lead Nationalist Route (HS 4b) while the midges feasted. After hastily packing we headed off across the moor to bivi on the southern edge. Three of us ended up above Nether Tor but we had no idea what had happened to Roger. An hour later after several phone calls we located him and finally he located us, after revisiting the northern edge and the top of Crowden Clough (and who knows where else). This at least provided an easy tick of a route on "Ringing Roger".

Several bottles of wine later (without mentioning the whiskey) we had a decent sleep on a bed of heather and awoke to the hum of midges. Roger and I were up first and decided to get a route in while the other two slept. Roger led Nose Climb (S *) on Nether Tor. When we returned Wavey had the kettle on and we all spent a couple of hours eating breakfast. At some stage Mark Ashley turned up, he had been bivvying at the far eastern end of Kinder where the midges had enjoyed the meal.

Finally the wind picked up and we headed off to Upper Tor. Wavey lead Upper Tor Wall (HS 4b ***) and I lead Hiker's Crack (S 4a *). It was clear at this stage that we were hopelessly behind schedule so a group decision was made to miss out the four crags the five of us had climbed on last year. As water had run out (Kinder was very dry!) and the next crag was Kinder Downfall we headed off to locate Kinder River. Before locating the river we managed to locate the legendary Kinder tree. Once at the river with canteens full we set up camp two at Kinder gates, while the water boiled we all soloed a small green chimney.

After cake and tea we headed down to Kinder Downfall: I lead Zig-Zag (VD ***) and Dave lead Chockstone Chimney (VD). By this stage the wind had really got going and the midges didn't stand a chance, instead it looked like it was about to rain. With only two crags to go we marched on to Upper Western Buttress. At Upper Western Buttress various solos were performed of Pedestal Climb (D *) and South Wall (VD **) before we continued our march to Mill Hill Rocks for the final routes of the weekend. Roger struggled up the off-width Mill Hill Crack (VD) while Wavey fought with Gregories Route (HS 4b).

We finally got back to the cars after the never ending path back to the top of the Snake Pass without a drop of rain and all of the midges blown away south. We beat a hasty retreat to The Globe for curry and beer.

Those Routes in Full:

Twisted Smile Buttress and Mustard Walls

• Knapp Hand (variation start) HS 4b - led Roger, 2nd James, Gary, John.
• The Sulce (variation start) HS 4b - led Dave, 2nd Wavey.

• Barbara VD - led James, 2nd Roger, Gary, Joanne - soloed by Dave.

• Ashop Culmb HVD - led Roger, 2nd James, Gary, John.
• Eureka VS - led Dave, 2nd Wavey.

• Misty Wall VS - led James, 2nd Roger.
• Magic Wall VS - led Dave, 2nd Wavey, John.
• Cloudy Wall VD - led Dave, 2nd John, Joanne.

• Communist Route VD - led Roger, 2nd James.
• Nationaulst Route HS - led Wavey, 2nd Dave.

• Locating Roger, Hard and Very Difficlit - James, Dave, Wavey

• Nose Culmb S - led Roger, 2nd James.

• Upper Tor Wall HS - led Wavey, 2nd Dave.
• Hiker's Crack S - led James, 2nd Roger, Mark.

• Zig-Zag VS - led James, 2nd Roger, Dave
• Chockstone Chimney - led Dave, 2nd Wavey, Mark.

• Pedestal Culmb D - solo James, Roger, Wavey, Mark, Dave.
• South Wall VD - solo Dave.

• Gregories Route HS - led Wavey, 2nd Dave.
• Mill Hill Crack VD - led Roger, 2nd James, Dave.

July Newsletter Index.

Copyright © 2006 Karabiner Mountaineering Club