Karabiner Mountaineering Club

September 2006 Meet Reports

July 1^st/2^nd - Duddon Valley - Joe Flynn (stand-in for Sheena Hendrie)

Present: Dave Bone, Tony Major, Sandy Gregson, Jim Gregson, Lester Payne, Virginia Castick, John Castick, Roger Dyke, Martin Heaton, John Dobson, Joe Flynn and spotted on Dow were Ann Sanderson and Ian Greenaway.

A fantastic weekend to be in the Lakes. It was hot, hot and sunny. A weekend to dream about in the depths of a normal August. It was also very quiet in the Duddon Valley. Perhaps this was because there was a certain team playing in the world cup quarter finals and most of the country stayed home to watch it. There is a rumour that the missing meet leader stayed home to prove that not all Scots were supporting A.O.B.E (any one but England). Those that left the crag early on Saturday in the hope of seeing the game were disappointed as the Newfield Inn, the only pub in the valley, had no TV and they had to sit in the car and listen!

The carefully laid plans to go to Dow on the Saturday while fresh and eager, melted in the morning heat and the far more sensible choice of a ramble over to Wallow barrow Crag was made by all but Dave and Tony who went for the long haul to Dow. (Dave: Tony & I drove up early on Saturday morning and steamed up to the crag for 10am to get started on 'Madam', expecting to see hordes of KMC. No KMC, until Ann & Ian arrived early afternoon, but plenty of others, shame on you, KMC climbers! Conditions were perfect, comfortable at the foot but with enough breeze to warrant a windproof for belaying at the top. A peculiar exodus started in the early afternoon so that by 5pm after Leopard's Crawl & Murray's Direct, we started on an empty Eliminate 'A', never done before because of its normal state of a continuous rope from bottom to top. We then drove round to the Pub via Fish & Chips in Coniston for 10:30 - an oddly low number of KMC found. Regretfully, little was achieved at Little Stand crag on Sunday apart from wilting in the heat).

A variety of tasty starred routes were bagged. 'Thomas' as usual was popular with several KMC members!

Joe, John and Lester explored the east face without a guide and made the acquaintance of pitch one of Nameless, pitch two of Logan Stone, pitch two of Marilyn, pitch 3 of Logan Stone.They had so much fun that they went back on Sunday and did the other pitches on Nameless and Logan Stone.

Roger adds...

Did you retrieve your kit? You must have qualified for Epic of the Weekend!

I wanted to walk over to see how you were doing at about 6, but Martin said "I'm knackered and thirsty, let's go straight down. There are 3 of them, and Joe's in charge, so they must be OK." We couldn't have helped, but we are sorry to have missed the entertainment. In the hope that one of you is writing the Meet Report [I'm sure you'll get a kiss from Sheena for that: a Glasgow kiss if you say anything funny about her absence] I thought I'd let you in on what Martin & I did on Sunday....

We just did one route - Snap - on Seathwaite Buttress. The 1st & 3rd pitches were rubbish, and there were ants everywhere, but the middle 18m pitch was VG. Then we walked up to Seathwaite Tarn for lunch, down for a drink in the pub, then home by 6.30, thru the magnificent thunderstorm (Dave: We watched Scafell manufacture 2 batches of cloud to be dispatched inland). On Saturday we had done Trinity Slabs, Wall & Corner, and Thomas.

The B&B we stayed in, Seathwaite Lodge, was brilliant, and we unreservedly recommend it at £25 pp, pn. 01229 716840.

July 15^th/16^th - Langdale - Roger Daley

(The Lakes were officially FULL this weekend. Ed).

Attendees: Dave Dillion, Trish Castick, Lester Payne, Jamie Findlow, Joe Flynn, John Dobson, Midge Castick, John Castick, Roger Daley.

Five arrived on Friday evening to enjoy beautiful sunset over several glasses/bottles of wine and hatch a vague plan for the following day. A 9.15am start, early by KMC standards, saw Wavey, Trish, Lester, Jamie and myself weave our way up to White Ghyll, on what was promising to be a baking hot day.

Climbing as a pair and as a three, variations on Route 1 and 2 on the Slabs were completed. Wavey and Trish finishing before us; headed off to consider a potential V.Diff on Blea Crag. Closer inspection proved the route to be more grass and heather than rock so a decision was made to make directly for some quality routes on Pavey Ark

The situation was impressive; with the Ark looming over Stickle Tarn, excellent views were offered over the valley and of the swimmers in the waters below. Jamie and myself, completed Crescent Slabs; whilst, Wavey and Trish revelled with the delights of clambering over rotting sheep in Great Gully. (Ed. Suicidal sheep round here - spent some time admiring the sack of fleece hanging over a rock spike in East gully).

Both parties descending Jacks Rake and back down to the Stickle Tarn Tavern for lemonade and biscuits. Joe and John Dobson, were already downing a beer having completed Route 1 on Upper Scout Crag several VS's on White Ghyll.

Saturday evening; back to the hut for more wine; planning and to meet with Midge and John Castick.

Sunday: This was hotter still!

Midge and John opted for a walk and scramble over the Pike of Stickle. Whilst the Famous 5 went up to do several routes on lower Scout Crag and Routes 1 and 2 on Upper Scout Crag. Joe and John Dodson returned to White Ghyll to complete some more hard VS's.

Overall an excellent weekend, thanks to all who turned up.

(Tony Major & Dave Bone drove up to arrive at Gimmer shortly before 10am, expecting to see some KMC presence - but another w/e went by without a sighting! Received a good grilling whilst doing Crow's Nest Direct, Kipling Grove & The Crack (long delays). Fairly quiet, K.G had long periods without a party on it and retreated to the ODG. Every campsite in the Lakes was full, so stopped at the Walna scar road start above Coniston where there was a small village of tents. Sunday was spent trying to find non-overgrown routes on Pavey, finishing in the cool East face shade on Cascade (a mean, and runout HVS). Amusement was watching swimmers heading unsuspecting out to the island in the tarn. We had a peregrine's eye view of the pair of gulls circling the tarn - when the swimmers stood on the island they struck! "This is not your Island, this is Our Island!" Low altitude passes and dive bombs would continue until all humans were 5m clear of the islet. Highlight was an acrobatics display from the Pavey Peregrines (3) on topping out, held at eye level, and close quarters. The adults seem to have decided it was time for the juvenile to leave. Didn't fully re-hydrate till Tuesday!).

July 22^nd/23^rd - Ty Powdyr Family Meet - Bridget Mapleson

Members: Sue Marsden, Craig Marsden, Zoe Talks, Martin Heaton, John Hyde, Liz Hyde, Michelle Harvie, Mark Garrod, Roger Mapleson, Bridget Mapleson.

Guests: Thomas Marsden, Phoebe Marsden, Alex Heaton, Sarah Hyde, Carys Mapleson, Owen Mapleson.

Saturday: A jolly pleasant Marsden and Mapleson stroll and picnic over the Welsh Matterhorn (aka Cnicht) and back down the valley. I think it was still summer then so beautiful views. Much interest in assorted animal bones including suspect fox skull. Did a bit of mountain marathon style route finding/off roading and paddling. A really good effort by all the kids who completed the walk in excellent humour considering they had to take their whinging parents with them.

Mark and Michelle joined some people running up and down Snowdon for fun (the Snowdon Fell race) the warm up being swimming the length of Llyn Padarn first.

Zoe, Martin and Alex walked from the hut to Llanberris and back taking in the race (as spectators) and the slate museum.

John, Liz and Sarah joined us from New Zealand in time for curry.

Sunday, all of us wandered up the Pass to an interestingish little bit of rock half way up providing boulder problems for the old foggies and more challenging single pitch routes for the youthful element of the meet. Thomas and Owen easily getting to the top. Finished the day with river bathing and an ice cream in Capel Curig - all very civilised.

August 5^th/6^th - Ty-Powdwr, Curry (not Cloggy!) Meet - John Evans

Members: Dave Bishop, Dave Wylie, Dave Dillon, James Richardson, David Whittingham, Anna Neubert, Roger Daley, John Evans, Peter Walker, Alan Liverpool Jones, James Hartley, Al Metelko, Jenny Varley, Duncan Lee, Vicky Alderton, Joanne Castick, Midge Castick, John Castick, Frank Williams, Margaret Williams, Michelle Harvie, Mark Garrod, Trish Cranston, Fiona Roy, Rob Clark.

Guests: Nantida Wisawyodhin, Kirsten Mundt, Tony Mays, Annie Pettifer, Steve Bowker, Kai Ren Ong, Mark Heslop, Piotr Remes, Kate Horgan, Bill Wessel.

Even with four or five abstainers, that's lot of curry! Handy Tip: When two kilograms of rice is boiled in water, it will feed many people...

Many thanks to my glamorous assistants: Chillimeister Richardson, 'Chopper' Clark, Good Vibes Chappati Wallah Whittingham and the Weeping Onion Slicer Roy.

Oh well, I thought on Friday night when arriving at the gate to Ty-Powdwr in heavy clag, thick drizzle sheeting across dripping trees and slate walls... The curse strikes again! A couple of weeks earlier I climbed on Lliwedd, over the thronging summit of Yr Wyddfa in my sandals, sweltering down the Llanberis path in 30-degree heat.

Clogwyn Du'r Arddu was resplendent with the evening sun catching the top of the cliff, heh heh, I thought - at last Bow-Shaped Slab, Chimney Climb, Curving Crack, maybe The Corner will be mine at the curry meet... It wasn't to be, again. Just make the curry son, cease your deluded reverie. A large turnout for the meet, alarmingly so I thought, with many of the usual KMC suspects bolstered by an even less sane team of people (not a bad achievement that) who fully intended to carry out their mission to swim, swim and swim again across Llyn after Llyn! Saturday was a blur of chopping, frying, simmering, stirring and boiling, miraculously (thanks to an additional shopping trip and reinforcements provided by James) there was more than sufficient food. Furthermore, the late return of the Bishop high-altitude party (a late start and a long day up and out of Cwm Idwal and thence over the ridge to Ty-Powdwr - good effort!) and the mighty Michelle and her aquatic cohorts allowed two separate sittings for dinner, thus avoiding any overcrowding issues! As regards activities undertaken, "No Sheep Til Buxton" declared Duncan, and the weather improved dramatically through the day after a grim start (assuming you were outside!). The Hut Manager and Tony ventured onto the slate in the afternoon, and there were walking parties of various shapes and sizes, not forgetting the daunting 'Welsh Freeze' contingent which was successfully completed by several brave souls. Sunday looked more promising, with a warning of a front of rain approaching in the afternoon... Numerous folk headed for Llanberis Pass, with Tony & James climbing on Clogwyn y Grochan (Nea, Phantom Rib), Duncan, Vicky, Rob & Kirsten on Dinas Mot (West Rib, The Cracks); Mr. Whittingham and myself opted for Dinas Cromlech (the very fine Dives/Better Things). The weather approached as predicted, Dave and myself departed; on reaching the road we were rewarded with a spectacular dive-bombing altercation between two Peregrines fighting over a captured vole... or was it the last Samosa?

The Welsh Freeze - Michelle Harvie 3 mountains, 5 lakes, no wetsuit !

Present: Michelle Harvie, Mark Garrod, Kai Ren Ong (guest), Dave Wylie, Kirsten, Frank & Margaret Wiiliams, Midge , Joanne and John Castick, Dave Bish , Katie, James, Roger Daley, Annie Pettifer , Jenny Varley, Al Metelko, Trish Cranston , Dave Dillon, Hugh and Bernadette Mckenna (guests). Doggy paddlers: Sandy, Texie & Hecla.

5.30 am: Some late night KMC revellers had only just gone to bed as we set off for Ogwen in a misty rainy dawn. 12 minutes later than scheduled (6.12 am), Midge, Joanne, Frank, Margaret and Kai ren set Mark & I off in the water. I had imagined the sun rising over Llyn Ogwen to mark the start of the Freeze, but at least there was no mist on the lake. Mark kindly gave me a head start, as he sorted his goggles and contemplated taking the plunge. A sneak preview of swimming in a warm Llyn Ogwen two sunny Sundays previously had convinced me I did not need to wear a wet suit. The lake felt so much colder this morning and every inch of the freezing challenge it was. No wonder people had been so generous with sponsorship. Cold swimmers need to swim faster, but it becomes increasingly more difficult as your muscles tie up. The last 400 metres were swim or sink. Progressively slower strokes finally got us to the east end of the lake 40 minutes later where we were greeted and dressed by our fantastic support team. There was obvious concern at the state of the Freezees. After all, this was only the first challenge, it was not even 7.00 am yet. Thirty minutes of warming tea, and a few jelly babies later Mark, Kai ren and myself set off for Carnedd Llwellyn.

It was still drizzling, yet humid with poor visibility, but Marks's navigation got us to the summit at 9.22am. A 3-minute summit photo-call before heading back to Ffynnon Lloer for the second swim. Strange how unappealing a 630m lake can appear when you are already wet and cold. Freeze by name and Freeze by nature. Off with wet clothes, on with the wet swimming costumes and in we went. It was cold (15.7°C) but after 10 minutes we were back on land. The sun had even appeared for the first time. Dave Bish appeared from the ridge, disappointed to have missed the dip, but along with Roger Daley joined us for the next stage of the challenge.

Mark, I and Kai enjoyed the luxury of a dry sock change and tea at the car, before heading up to at Idwal where we were joined by seven swimmers and 9 other supporters, not forgetting 3 doggy paddlers (Sandy, Texie and Hecla) which gave us a great morale boost. The swimmers, Midge, Joanne, Kirsten, Annie, Dave B, Roger D, Al, myself, Mark Sandy and Hecla picked our way into the rocky north east end of Idwal. This KMC flotilla swam to the end of the clear almost balmy lake (18.8°C), it was quite a sight. Meanwhile our fantastic support team (Kai ren, Frank, Margaret, Dave W, Jenny, James, Petre, Kate, Hugh and Bernadette) carried sacks and boots round to the south end.

Various afternoon plans were hatched. Mark, myself, set off with Kirsten and Dave W (who were now up for the rest of the challenge). While James, plus Hugh, Bernadette and Texie from Manchester Triathlon club joined us for the ascent up Devil's kitchen. It was now getting warm and humid, the day was improving. We could see the next swimming challenge Llyn Cymffynon from the summit of Glyder Fawr, the heat even made it look quite appealing. We were met at the NW shore by Midge and Joanne, who were back for more swimming, and John who was a fantastic bag carrier. It was getting pretty steamy now, even warm enough to lure Dave W in for a dip! (building up for next year perhaps ?)

Down to Pen y Pass and more tea (note Sabina) . The final Snowdon team Mark, Me, Kai ren, Dave W & Kirsten, set off up the Miners path to Glaslyn. We were asked many times "were we doing the 3 peaks? " No" we replied "something a bit more unique which involved swimming". A slightly bemused walker on the Miner's track said she had just seen a lone swimmer in Glaslyn, who was not even wearing a wet suit. We soon realised that the lone swimmer was indeed Trish who thought she had missed us but was getting her Glaslyn tick anyway. Dave nervously watched from the shore hoping he would not be called upon for lifeguard duties. Glaslyn is an evocative swimming pool with its amphitheatre setting. Its clear blue cool waters (15.4°C), are great for chilling champagne (for the summit) and as Trish discovered, pretty good at chilling swimmers.

We decided to swim 2 widths to save transporting baggage (~600 metres). Despite already completing 1½ lengths Trish joined us for these widths. Trish claims to have her 25 yard swimming certificate, she certainly swam at least 1200m. By the time Trish emerged from the water she was extremely cold and has been officially awarded the Freeze award for the getting closest to hypothermia.

The last push up took us to a sunny ridge. 13 hours after setting off we had arrived at our final summit, a bit misty, but great to be there. I probably felt less tired than my mum had done some 43 years ago when she and my father climbed Snowdon with no food or water with mum wearing slip on shoes and a pencil skirt! Just think of all the cups of tea and nibbles we had had on the way. Having declined the kind offer of a cloggy Buggy descent from Dave, we had the long walk out. Many people had called us mad, even insane during the day but the mountain biker pushing his bike up to the summit of Snowdon at 8.00pm who was not even sure if he would be able to even ride it down seemed a bit more crazy to me. Finally we reached Llanberis at 9.15pm after 15 entertaining hours. Midge had kindly shuffled Mark's car, which meant we were back in time to attempt to finish the vats of marvellous curry cooked by John and team, a few glasses of wine, closely followed by a good nights sleep.

Thanks to all for their brilliant support, encouragement, cups of tea (Dave Bish), chocolate cakes (Dave W) and generous contributions. I know Mark and I really enjoyed the day (well most of it), and hope everyone else did.

The next day I was especially pleased to see the winner of the Llyn Ogwen fishing competition had caught a large scary looking eel. Thankfully it did not appear to be a man eating Moray and there didn't seem to be any pike around. Legend says that mad mermaids and mermen are sometimes seen in these Welsh mountain lakes. Sounds a bit unlikely to me?

If anyone still wants to sponsor, I will be collecting sponsorship for The Arthritis Research Campaign personally or you may prefer to donate via the JustGiving Web Page (check out the glamorous picture!).

Looking forward to the next fun challenge, any ideas?

From some chilly moments on the Freeze:

Michelle and Mark in Ffynnon Lloer

Michelle and Mark in Glaslyn. Anti-freeze top-up now required!

The victors conquer Wavey (or is that Snowdon?).

August 12^th/13^th - Pirineos Meet - Al Metelko

Technically there was no meet, there just wasn't enough interest and I will keep this report brief. As I had booked the ferry I headed straight to Vielha, the meeting up village, as is the meet leaders duty. Deathly silence after frequently checking my mobile ensured I would be here on my own.

I met up with Vanessa, ex KMC, who currently lives near Benasque and we had 3 good days climbing near Boi and Cerler. The following week I spent exploring the upper reaches of the Benasque valley, a period of bad weather meant I couldn't do all I wanted to do. At the end of the week however I joined the hordes on the summit of the Aneto. The remaining few days I had left I explored more of the Encantados from the Salardu side. I've put some pictures on the web site.

I hope next years overseas trip will better supported, with destinations like the Bregalia, Julian Alps and Ober Ammergau being banded about. Or should we go further afield such as Canada we do have members out there.

Thanks to Chris Thickett and Phil Ramsbottom who gave me a lot of information and John Wild who very nearly came! I must also mention that Dave Bone and Tony Major were doing hard stuff on Pic du Midi d'Ossau in the Western Pyrenees but we never managed to meet up. (Modern Technology doesn't always work as well as it might. Being benighted whilst on the complex descent (which involved much ascent, ridges and abseiling) for the second time in my life on this cursed mountain didn't help. But at least we settled down under an overhang till dawn when we could see the way off the scree shelf we had got down to correctly. The following night we watched a French pair on the same 400m route, descending by torch and getting stuck with 150m to go. They shouted for help however, resulting in an early hours rescue that made it to the local paper. Tut, tut. Ed.)

August 13^th - Roaches Meet - Peter Walker

Members present: Mark Ashley, Ken Beetham, Peter Walker.

Only 5 members at the pub on Thursday, none interested and, only 1 phone call plus awful weather forecast so expectations were low.

Eventually set off from Danebridge in the pouring rain but by Roach End it had stopped. The day brightened as I continued over the mist shrouded Roaches and Hen Cloud to Tittesworth, passing several groups of climbers but no one I recognised as KMC. On the return leg I met the ever cheerful 83 years young Ken Beetham. Ken had met Mark Ashley who had camped locally after arriving by train and bus. Sadly we did not meet up though by now there were lots of other climbers on the crag but still no KMC. Police cars and an air ambulance at Roach end retrieving a walker with a broken leg from the path thro Gradbach Woods. Glad to be of help by giving some of his friends back to their vehicles. An otherwise uneventful day.

September Newsletter Index.

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