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September 2007 Meet Reports
June 10th - Stanage Edge - Heather Brooke
Members: Colin Maddison, Mark Ashley, Zoe Talks, Martin Heaton,
Trish Cranston, Dave Dillon, Ken Beetham, Roger Dyke, Dave Wylie,
Cathy Gordon, Joe Flynn.
Guests: Ian Dinning, Clare Bailey, James Hoyle, Kasia Hoyle, Gary
Cook, Kirsten Mundt, Richard Yorke, Alex Vidouris, Roisen Maddison
and Alex Heaton.
Well the sun was out and everything seemed like it was going to plan
(although I arrived late). Unfortunately I hadn't counted on the
midges descending on Stanage Edge and eating everyone alive.
Even with the midges, everyone was keen to climb with many of the
classics in the area having multiple ascends during the course of the
day including Heaven Crack, Martello Buttress and Martello Cracks.
After several routes and multiple midge bites later I boldly left the
crag in search of ice cream, leaving braver KMCers to battle on
against the midges.
June 23rd/24th - Ullswater meet - Virginia Castick
Members: Virginia Castick, John Castick, Joanne Castick, Jim Gregson,
Sandy Gregson, Lester Payne, Graham Harkness, Sue Harkness,
Michelle Harvie, Mark Garrod, Frank Williams, Margaret Williams.
Guests: James Hoyle, Kasia Hoyle.
Following the success of Michelle's Welsh Freeze last year, I decided
a Lake District version was called for and so the 'Lakes Farce' was
born. After many changes of plan, including some made as we walked,
the final route had three swims totalling 1000m and 11 miles of
walking taking us 10 hours.
Despite the gloomy weather forecast, Saturday was merely cloudy and,
by the time we got there, the tops were clear. The sun even came out
at the finish.
We set off from the campsite in Glenridding, after waiting a short
while for Mark and Michelle. By the time we got to Red Tarn, Michelle
was in the water having taken a different route to the tarn. We noted
that she was in a wetsuit and realised the water must be freezing and
so it was. I was still gasping for breath when Joanne and I got out
after just a few minutes swimming. Frank and Margaret departed back
to Glenridding at this point to help John blow up his rubber boat for
the final swim. Hastily back into clothes, we all shot off up
Swirral Edge at a fast pace; the swimmers to get warm from the icy
tarn and the supporters to get warm from their noble wait in the mist
and wind. My legs wouldn't stop aching on the way up and I was glad
of a rest on the top of Helvellyn. Whilst eating lunch Dave Lygate
appeared with a group of friends - bad timing Dave - he was conned by
Michelle into swimming at Grisedale Tarn, our next objective. Having
nicely warmed up with a pleasant stroll across Nethermost Pike and
Dollywaggon Pike, it was revolting to put on a cold and soggy
wetsuit. The water didn't feel quite as cold as Red Tarn or maybe we
were getting used to it by then.
Michelle and Dave Lygate swam without wetsuits; Michelle because
she's brave and Dave because he had no choice.
After Grisedale Tarn the party split into two. Some went over
Fairfield, the longer route, and others including the meet leader
went over St. Sunday Crag. We descended over Gavel Pike to Deepdale
Bridge and then across the main road to follow the valley path to
Side Farm. We were lucky that the cafe was still open and after
several restorative cups of tea, Joanne and I were ready for the
final swim. Jim and Sandy accompanied us to the lake edge after we
had left a note for the rest of the walkers who hadn't arrived at
this point. (They missed the note and walked back to Glenridding thus
missing the final boat ride or swim). The lake water felt positively
tropical after the cold tarns and the swim across the lake back to
the pier at Glenridding was easy. It was nice to have an accompanying
boat to fend off other shipping. Sandy looked a little apprehensive
about this part of the journey but Captain John reminded her there
were no icebergs or polar bears here. As we emerged from the water at
the other side the second group arrived so John took Michelle back
across the lake for her final swim which she completed very quickly.
After a cup of tea, the party dispersed. Some went home and others
stayed for what turned out to be a poor day on Sunday.
I had a great weekend and thanks to all the bag carriers and
supporters. A special thanks to Michelle and Joanne for doing all the
swimming with me - where next?
June 30th/July 1st - Northern Kinder Edges - James Richardson
The kinder meet was rained off. I went for a walk around the southern
edge on the Friday evening before the rain arrived - the southern
edge was still green in sheltered spots. I drove over the snake pass
on Saturday and confirmed that it would be very miserable on the top
of Kinder. (Definitely not an entry for the Golden Biro award, could
do better. Ed)
July 7th/8th - Langdale - Joe Flynn
Members. Joe Flynn, John Dobson, Lester Payne, Chris Thicket, Sandy
Gregson, Jim Gregson, Duncan Lee, Vicky Alderton, Rob Clark, Roger
Daly, Gavin Anderson,
Guests. Kirsten Mundt, Richard Yorke.
The advance guard arrived at the Hut on Thursday to secure the KMC
booking which had not been quite confirmed and entailed a few last
minute negotiations with Sue the Hut warden. But all went well.
By Friday evening most of the rest had arrived and a very pleasant
evening was had in the Stickle Barn accompanied by the serenading of
the local travelling bard.
Saturday morning Gavin arrived from Ohio with a bang. Much to Jim's
chagrin. Gavin always did liven things up. But I will leave that
story for the insurance companies.
The sun was not shinning but Kirsten was. With her optimism and
beaming smile even the old slouchers ventured out for a stroll around
the Langdale Pikes. A classic route was followed by the early party -
Stickle Tarn, Jacks Rake, Lunch in the rain, Harrison Stickle (can
anyone explain to me and our overseas colleague what a Stickle is),
Pike o Stickle, Angle Tarn and for the meet leader and John - Rosset
Gill and the Pub. For the younger and /or fitter, Bow Fell and the
Band was the preferred route to the Pub. After sorting out a bit of
insurance business Jim, Sandy and Gavin did a variation on the above
walk. Chris Thicket was seen pursuing a veteran of the FRC in the
direction of Pike O Biscoe. John Cox was in Langdale assisting
runners doing the 'Bob Graham'. I met him on his return from Broad
Stand. Cathy Devine and Jeremy Engineer were also spotted in Langdale.
The weather may have kept most off the rock on Saturday but not
Duncan and Vicky. They attacked some wicked routes on Scout Crag.
Overhanging, fist jamming Severes and V. Diffs with no protection. I
checked them out on Sunday and they were well wicked!
Sunday was well named and hot, so most headed for the rock. Teams
climbed on Scout Crag and White Gill. Fantastic climbing in a
fantastic valley. John Dobson had to leave in the morning for a motor
cycle lesson (about time after 30 years of faking it) and reported
that by the time he got to Preston the skies opened and he got soaked
and his lesson was cancelled. We encountered dark skies and very wet
roads at Bolton and heard about the torrential rain that had covered
most of Manchester that day. It is great to get away now and again.
July 21st/29th - Bregaglia - Duncan Lee
Members present: Vicky Alderton, Duncan Lee, Dave Bone, Tony Major, Pete Walker,
Pete Schofield, Roger Mapleson, Bridget Mapleson, Sabina Cosulich,
Sheena Hendrie, Rob Allen, Christine Beeston, Dave Dillon, Trish
Cranston, Al Metelko, Andy Grantham and Jo Farrington.
Guests present: Owen Mapleson, Carys Mapleson, Lucy Bell, Ben
Richardson and Steve Bowker. (The Brits had taken over)
How long is a piece of string? Or in this case a meet. Does the meet
start when the meet leader gets there or when the designated date in
the handbook is reached? So are those lucky souls already there
having fun in the sun on the meet yet or not? We (Vicky and I) on the
other hand are sat in a traffic jam on the M6 in the pouring rain
having just witnessed a spectacular crash that virtually guarantees
that we will miss the ferry.
...We missed the ferry!!
Thankfully the very nice people at Norfolk Line let us onto the next
ferry free of charge so we managed to make it to the campsite in
Vicosoprano late on Saturday afternoon as promised, and as expected
the meet was already in full swing. In fact, satisfied folk such as
Rob and Christine were already down off the hill sipping a well
earned cold beer having done the fine SE Arête of Piz dal Pal Tower.
Sabina and Sheena had practised their fancy footwork on the Albigna
Slabs and Wavey was still trying to explain how he had lost one of
the windows from his car in a bizarre strimming accident in Belgium!
He assures me that JC was not involved.
Sunday
An early morning storm cancelled everyone's plans for going up the
hill but provided us all with a good excuse to play at making
shelters. It is amazing how inventive folk can be with a couple of
tarpaulins, an assortment of walking poles and a ball of string. It
kept us amused for hours before a trip into Chiavenna to stock up
with supplies. After that some people fried on the black rock of
Sasso del Drago whilst others rolled into the campsite. Sheena (aka
Su chef) provided the evening's entertainment by failing to juggle
the tomato based Wop Slop. (Tony and I arrived from a week in
Goshenen via some too hot to touch slabs. Ed.)
Monday
Fine weather saw everyone out and about with most people taking the
ride up the cable car to the Albigna Dam and its surrounding peaks.
Piz Dal Pal Tower once again took people's interest with Sabina and
Sheena doing the SE Arête whilst Pete S, Vicky and I did Piccolo
which shared the previous routes fine airy finish up the arête. Once
back at the base of the climb we were joined by the Maplesons for a
spot of slab nastiness whilst a marmot scolded us all and Pete W
snapped next years winning rock action shot. His words not mine.
(Tony and I after food shopping spent the day being bemused by the
grades at Sasso Bianco, Chiavenna. Features on route - grade good, no
Features - grade bad)
As we all headed back down towards the valley Wavey and Trish were
heading in the opposite direction to do the aforementioned SW Arête
before finding a nice spot to bivi just as the rain arrived. Mind you
it was worse at the campsite, Bowks had arrived.
Tuesday
As the overnight rain continued Sheena declared that "I'd rather go
for a walk than go shopping." A statement that resulted in a stunned
silence from all but as it happens she did both. In fact walking was
one of the main themes of the day. The longest and most arduous
effort was by Al and Andy who flogged up Piz Cam in order to
acclimatise. A fine effort. Others took things at a more leisurely
pace strolling around in the valley whilst others crossed over into
Italy and went cragging (superb limestone in the hills N of Lecco).
Our hardy Alpinists (aka Wavey and Trish) on the other hand were
undeterred by a damp night and squelched their way up the South Flank
of Spazzacaldeira before returning to the valley.
Wednesday
Wall to wall sunshine saw virtually everyone heading up to the
Albigna Dam and disappearing off to various peaks in the cirque. Dave
and Tony visited the Bio Pillar and climbed Snoopy, which they
declared to be an excellent meaty little number on a fantastic bit of
granite (but tricky to find). The classic Modern Times on Punta
Albigna saw a mass ascent by Sabina, Sheena, Rob and Christine whilst
Andy and Al ascended the South Ridge of Piz Balzet.
The fine little pointy peak of Spazzacaldeira also saw lots of KMC
ascents with the two Peters being the first to reach the summit via
the South Flank. Vicky and Bridget did the excellent NE Ridge with
the Nigg Variation but there was no variation in Bridget language
once gripped. Lots of "technical climbing terms" were muttered and
shouted. Steve and I were also on the crag having been beaten to our
original goal by the flying, frigging Fritz brothers. Instead we
headed off up the adjacent Dente per Dente from which we had an
excellent view of the numerous flying demonstrations from our
Germanic counterparts. Soon however they were far below as we
continued up the NE Ridge/Nigg to reach the spectacular pinnacles of
Il Dente and La Fiamma both of which just had to be climbed on the
way past. It would have been rude not too.
Unbeknown to us at the time it also reduced the length of time we had
to queue for the cable car down courtesy of a modern day Julie
Andrews who had thoughtlessly walked dozens of children up the hill!
As a result some folk waited hours whilst other lucky souls who would
have had to walk down jumped onto cars hours after it should all have
been shut down for the night. The cable car operator must have a good
overtime deal because he was still smiling at the end of this ordeal.
Thursday
Yet again the weather was fine and once again a Mapleson was out on
the hill. Today was Roger's turn to play out, so as most folk went
valley cragging or walking, six of us headed back up to the Albigna
cirque where we all ended up climbing on Spazzacaldeira. Mind you,
Roger and I had first slogged up to The Tortoise, only to find a team
of four in situ doing a fine impression of the aforementioned
creature. Thus we followed Dave and Tony up the superb Lasciami-Li
after an hour and a half's walking that saw us climbing all of five
minutes from the telepherique terminus. Noon saw the four of us sat
on the terrace at the top of the route so with so much of the day
left we decided to continue up the underrated SE Ridge to the summit
and the irresistible slender and highly photogenic Fiamma which we
all ascended. Roger even got brave enough to stand up on the top.
Sabina and Sheena delighted in the exposure of the classic NE Ridge
whilst all this was going on.
Friday
Once again the weather was set fair and once again Spazzacaldeira was
a popular venue with Rob and Christine doing the NE Ridge whilst Al
and Andy ascended the Nigg. Dave and Tony, who had better luck with
the crowds, reported that the 14 pitch Tortoise was great fun (The
Line goes nowhere but the climbing is good all the same). Vicky and I
did the superb Kasper Pillar on Piz Frachiccio, a climb that deserves
all the superlatives that the guidebooks lavish upon it.
Unfortunately the same could not be said of the SE Face of Roda Val
della Neve which was the Swiss family Mapleson's chosen route. The
crux of the retreat was explaining to the wailing children that it
was a loose pile of rubble and completely unsuitable as their first
Alp.
Sabina and Sheena headed to the Bondasca for a civilised walk, which
saw them taking morning coffee at the Sciora hut and an afternoon
beverage at the Sasc Fura as they completed an enjoyable circuit of
the valley.
Others walked and climbed in the Val Bregaglia but alas Wavey and
Trish headed home. The first to head in that direction but Jo arrived
as a replacement.
Saturday
Yet another sunny morning saw Rob and Christine heading home as Lucy
and Ben arrived as reinforcements. Dave and Tony were off early once
more to make the most of their last day by climbing the varied 9
pitch Spidi on Piz Balzet (And a different telepherique operator!).
The Maplesons were also back out on the hill with the day's goal
being to take the kids on a glacier. Before reaching said glacier,
however, Owen and Carys rebelled and were subsequently marched up Piz
Dal Pal for their troubles and thus bagged their first Alp.
Unfortunately it still wasn't "a proper mountain" according to Carys.
The rest of us were far more sloth with our only activity being a
visit to a vicious little crag at Morteratsch. Nice view, shame about
the crag was the general consensus but the harsh grades provided much
amusement and bemusement and the fine vista of the Bernina
compensated for the cliffs inadequacies.
Sunday
The last day of the meet (certainly as far as writing this meet
report is concerned) saw yet more folk heading homewards whilst
others went valley cragging. In fact only 4 of us headed off up the
hill. Lucy and Ben had a good explore of the Albigna area whilst
Vicky and I toiled off up the Bondasca to bivi on nice soft grass
just below the Sciora hut. We then spent a civilised evening enjoying
the magnificent views whilst savouring a bottle of Grumello and
contemplating the meet which I think has been a success. Twenty two
people on a meet virtually a thousand miles from Manchester! It has
helped to restore my faith in the club's future. Thanks to everyone
who came.
August 4th/5th - Lakes Wild Camp/Climb - Roger Daley
As meet leader I believe its important to provide encouragement and
support to expedition members; so having established base camp in my
executive apartment in Carlisle; it was good to hear an update from
Richard. At 10 pm I got the call...
"We're approaching Dow Crag ... its very windy ... and starting to
rain .... when do you expect to get here?" he enquired.
"As soon as ... just getting the BBQ together" ... I instinctively
shouted down the phone.
"It may be the morning now".
The howling wind clattered against the window making it difficult to
hear his reply, but I am certain they were words of gratitude for my
careful planning.
Sipping on my whiskey I felt content that my plan was coming
together. From the window I could see, heavy curtains of rain
sweeping across the fells. I looked to Annie; " I only wish I was
with them; but I knew in my heart of hearts that our work here would
be critical to the expedition.
Saturday morning the weather was indeed foul. Annie and I having to
drink tea and eat cake in Coniston whilst we waited for a break in
the weather. At 12 am our prayers were answered with blue sky and a
warm sun; one could have been forgiven for thinking it was summer. By
early afternoon Annie, myself and Heckler, approached Dow.
Dave and Richard were half way up some classic route; whilst Katie,
Trish and Wavey were undertaking some serious tea making.
Activities involved setting up tents; drinking tea, preparing the BBQ
and sniffing sheep dung; the latter being mainly done by Heckler.
Dave and Richard returned around 5pm; triumphant with a successful
ascent.
The weather had taken a turn for the worst; the rain hammered down
and the wind picked up; so as meet leader I decided to light the BBQ;
on the menu : fish kebabs, pineapple, goat cheese salad, burgers and
sausages complimented with a box of wine. For the two hours we
battled against the elements...the charcoal spitting with disgust at
being brought to such a god forsaken place.
The conditions forced people to retire early to their tents; with the
exception of Wavey who had decided that it was the perfect night for
Bivying!
Sunday morning, and more bad weather... though as Richard said "
Never had he been so wet and miserable and yet had so much fun".
Thanks for all those mad enough to attend ...the only question now is
where do we go for Extreme BBQ 2008?
Attendees: Dave Bish, Katie, Trish Cranston, Wavey, Richard Yorke,
Annie Pettifer, Heckler (Springer Spaniel), Roger Daley.
August 11th/12th - Cratcliffe Tor & Chatsworth Edge - Dave Dillon
Present at some point:
Al Metelko, Dave Dillon, Dave Wylie, Kate Sparks, Rob Allen, Trish
Cranston, Trudie Young, Chris Williams, Richard and Mary, Pete,
Chris(tine), Chris.
Recommended equipment: Umbrella, ear plug, spectacles, tweed.
Cratcliffe Tor showered with dappled sunlight, edging through the
trees was the playground for Saturday. An old black and white photo
appearing in one of the guides indicated that perhaps three feet of
ground was, and still is, missing from the start of some of the
routes.
The grades of those raised routes haven't been altered by later
guide-book writers, they presumably assuming the current population
has developed an extra three feet of reach in the meantime. Oddly,
most of the other climbs where erosion was less evident were given
more elevated grades.
Anyway, the assembled parties swarmed over whatever took their
fancy.The acoustics of the place lend itself to semi-isolation in
each of its stony folds, though for miles further down the valley I
imagine you could hear exactly what was going on, even if it made no
sense. However, in one's own little bay all that intruded were the
gentle squeals of delight from some neighbouring acoustic megaphone.
An advance party that went to inspect the Druid Inn were never seen
again. When the main troupe arrived, they were rebutted by Guardian
wielding punters who'd bagged all the grub. Probably wasn't much of
a loss as inside it looked like the pub below Helvelyn, gone all posh
and up market.
Headed over to the Robin Hood Inn, next to the Eric Byne camp site.
Here, we tanked up on needed resources until the dark arrived. The
evening accommodation was a choice of the camp site, the CC hut and
the back seat of a car. The camp site was in many ways better than
the Swiss camp site at Vicosoprano, it being flatter, not as crowded
with brits, no worries about paying for hot water as there wasn't
any, no annoying roasting sun in the mornings, nominal camp site fees
personally collected whilst in the comfort of ones own bedding. A
gentle stroll to crags in many directions. The list goes on.
Chatsworth Edge dappled with showers of something light, dodging in
the trees became the adventure for Sunday. Steeling oneself against
the sirens in the Robin Hood Inn offering coffee and debauchery, the
Sunday melee set off. Rain during the night, seemingly light at the
camp site, appeared to have swept the foot bridge aside, leaving a
teetery crossing to the crag.
The rock, presumably used to years of rain, was dry in no time. Epics
commenced on the Emperor Buttress and later at Death Rattle Buttress.
The sun enticed leaders to stay on top and so entice others to have a
crack at theirs. Lunch was hauled up and munched on the Emperor
buttress summit amongst the greenery.
A final trip back to the Robin Hood for another sample of fine ale in
the sunshine.
Thanks to all for coming along and exploring these entertaining crags.
And he means ALL?
"Last weekend my friend Mary and I joined Dave Dillon's meet in the
Peak. We had been invited along by an acquaintance of Mary who wasn't
on the meet. We were both appreciative of the way two complete
strangers were welcomed and accepted. We had a really good weekend."
(Good work, this is the way to get new members. Ed.)
September Newsletter Index.
Copyright © 2007 Karabiner Mountaineering Club
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