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Karabiner Mountaineering Club

January 2008 Forthcoming Meets


All note the following small print when taking part in meets :-

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."


January 13th - (not very) Scary Walk: Pendle Broomstick tour - Dave Bone

I haven't done a form of this circuit over and around Pendle Hill for some time, so here's a moderate walk, all on tracked (or flag-stoned) terrain to shake off the long break.

Park at Padiham Heights, at the top of the ridge south of the village of Sabden at 786368 - if coming up from Padiham, turn left at the crossroads at the top of the hill, then area on right. Meet 10am to be away 10:15. Triple tick if you arrive on a Broomstick.

Quick idea of circuit: Continue W along the road, then after crossroads, a path down hill to cross Sabden Brook. Rising traverse due W to Wiswell Moor, turning right to follow the path beside the ridge which we continue to follow over the road, then taking the stream (there is a path) up the backside of Pendle Hill, curving round to the summit. A rapid knee tearing descent E, then head S to Ogden Reservoir. Cross the dam, up the hillside, then follow the ridge up to Spence Moor. Before the outward route, wend down paths to Sabden, and back up to the car park on a short footpath. Distance around 11miles, but if not long enough, I can be inventive. Anyone caught flying around will be given the standard water test for a Witch.


January 20th - Lake District Walk - James Hoyle

This will be the classic Fairfield Horseshoe from Rydal. In my opinion one of the finest winter walks in the lakes with stunning rugged views from the summit, especially if there's a bit of the white stuff about. The walk takes in several smaller peaks including Great Rigg and Dove Crag before descending back down to Rydal.

Hopefully all present will then retire, with glowing faces, to the rather quirky Badgers Bar for a little light refreshment. It looks to be about 13 kilometres on the map and if memory serves me correctly it will take about 5 hours to get round so I'm suggesting we meet in the small lane next to Rydal church from 9:30 for a 10 O'clock start. There should be ample parking.


January 26th - Peak District Walk - James Richardson

NOTES:

  1. This meet is on Saturday.
  2. The Snake Pass and Rushup Edge are both shut. Dave Bone's suggested journey to the meet is: Go out via Stockport A6 - not over Rushup, via Sparrowpit, Hope, Ladybower. Overall won't expect it to take much longer if traffic is not abnormal.

Meet at Derwent Fairholmes car park at 9.50 ready to get the 10.05 bus to Kings Tree (arriving at 10.20). We will then follow the Derwent River and eventually end up on the Pennine Way. We will then head westwards towards Bleaklow. We will then head south along the Alport River and go over the top of Alport Castles. We should then arrive back at the cars just as night is falling (bring a head torch in case my timing is a little out).


February 2nd/3rd - Ty Powder Meet - Richard Yorke

This will be the first KMC meet I have organised. I'll leave it up to you to decide whether my lack of experience in this area will make for a more exciting, unpredictable meet or just a chaotic gathering of folk with only their passion for the mountains of Snowdonia in common. Either way I promise it'll be fun.

Plans for the weekend will obviously depend on conditions/weather (will we have a proper winter this year?) and what people want to do but it would be great to see a few of us do a winter traverse of the Glyders or perhaps the Snowdon Horseshoe via Crib Goch's less popular but equally stunning North Ridge.

As the meet will be at the club hut I don't need to know exact numbers but it would be good to know who's likely to show up so I can ensure I bring enough whisky. "Was that free whisky, I heard?". Yes it was, but at a small price. Anyone coming along to this meet and who wants to get the full tick (and a wee dram of Yorkie's malt) will need to clean or mend something around the hut in addition to the usual pots and pans. Prize for the most esoteric item cleaned or repaired.

Drop me a line if you fancy coming along.


February 8th/15th - Norway Ice Meet - Craig Marsden

Fed up with variable Scottish conditions and poor if any ice, want virtually guaranteed conditions with a maximum of an hour and a half walk or as little as 2 minutes, want a choice of some 175 ice routes then Rjukan in Southern Norway may well be the place for you.

Rjukan is fast becoming the ice climbing mecca with cheap and easy flights from the UK and a long climbing season.

The area around Rjukan has a very wide range of climbing available from single pitch climbing at Krokan with any from WI2 through to M10 (dry tooling heaven if that's your thing!) oh and some top roping but we won't say to much about that, the fantastic Fabrikfossen 5 pitches of easy WI 2 with a further 2 of WI3 directly above Rjukan and the 800m waterfall of Gausta giving a 17 pitch "marathon".

Rjukan is a fantastic place to try out ice climbing, it may be possible to hire gear out there. There are definitely options to hire guides for tuition including gear hire, but again not sure of the prices.

There is also a Ski area where skis and such can be rented (alpine and cross country, see website www.gaustablikk.no), an 800mm toboggan run for the inner child, a swimming pool to relax those tired muscles, the Vemork musuem for those people who like war time history.

Getting there

Ryanair fly out from Liverpool, current prices:

Outbound

DayDateDepartArrivePrice
Friday8th Feb18.3521.25£14.99
Sunday10th Feb12.0514.55£ 9.99
Monday11th Feb18.3521.25£49.99
Wednesday13th Feb18.3521.25£ 9.99

Return
Monday11th Feb21.5022.45£ 9.99
Wednesday13th Feb21.5022.45£ 9.99
Friday15th Feb21.5022.45£39.99
Sunday17th Feb15.2016.15£14.99

Car Hire

Various companies: Norway Direct, SIXT, Nova, National.

Anything from £250 to £420 car and company dependent (for some examples see me)

Accomodation

Wooden huts are the main form.

Some directly in town:

Rjukan Hytteby. (although appeared to be full when I e mailed, but they do have a motel). Link: www.rjukan-hytteby.no

Hut for 5 people max, NKr 1050 / night, NKr 5400 / week (£95, £490)

Nearest to shops, bars, swimming and café within walking distance (but do you want to be that close to the bars).

Rjukan Hytte og Caravanpark. Link: www.rjukanhytte.com

Various sized cabins:

 No of sleeping roomsSleeps maxPrice/Cabin/night
Olabu14520NKr
Gaustasyn251000NKr
Spelemannstogo281125NKr *

*(I have booked this and there are currently Sue + kids, Colin + Roisin and myself in this one at a push might fit two in but there would not be much room for stuff).

Rough exchange rate is 11Kr:£

There is a hostel, but not sure of prices.

There are also cabins up at the ski area, about 7Km outside of town.

See www.rgg.no (but you will need to be conversant with Norwegian)

some pictures to wet your appetites!

Classic III / IV Bullen High up on Fabrikfossen mulitpitch III


February 10th - Clwyd Hills Circuit - Dave Bone

It's a Walk in Wales but not a Wild W.W - it is all on paths or fields, so it's easy really. A good bit of variety and hopefully a bit of interest. One for all the family even! To get to the start point at GR161605, head for Mold by route of choice, and take the bypass following the A494 towards Ruthin. After passing through Loggerheads, take the next turn for Tafarn-y-Gelyn and take the road uphill (may see a sign for Moel Famau). Meet at a parking area at the top of the pass for a 10am start - more parking on the way up. Just over an hour from S. Manchester.

Route - head South (yes, deliberately) over the steep bump of Moel Fenli, then tease a way through fields to Four Crosses. Follow the valley side North in the woods to emerge at Maehafn, and straight through over a hilltop to Loggerheads country park at the A494. 200m W on the A494, pick up the well used track on the East bank of the river and follow this a long way North, with good sections of an old leat alongside, crossing the mouth of Pantymwyn Gorge - some climbing here but the floor is unappetising in the wet months. When the trail ends at the road cross the bridge, take a short section of footpath, then roads into Cilcain and out west past the church. The easiest route is the track gently rounding the shoulder of Moel Llys-y-coed, to end at the pass. Now for the hills - after the sharp pull south out the pass, it is a long but easy stretch along the ridge line with good views, reaching the high viewpoint and structures on Moel Famau, at a time when most people have gone. From here it's a racing descent on the hammered track back to the car.

Distance approximately 13mi, 850m ascent. Maps required: OS landranger 116, and a sliver of 117.

[Normal Situation will be restored on my March Walk!]


February 23rd/24th - Raeburn Hut Meet - Andrew Croughton

Centrally situated in the Scottish Highlands this meet offers an ideal chance to make the most of the first snow, rain, wind, hail stone and lovely crisp clear sunny days in Scotland for the winter season.

Despite last years poor turn out (Due to the horrendous winds that week) we have 8 beds booked again for this weekend at £7.50 per night, what a bargain.

First to book will get priority.

The hut has all the usual facilities and is situated off the main A9 road through Dalwhinnie.

Close by are the Monadhliath Mountains, Creag Meagaidh and Aviemore and the Cairngorms are also within easy reach.

So if you fancy a bit of winter walking, skiing, climbing, malt whisky tasting, book soon to avoid disappointment.


March 1st/2nd - Ty Powder Working Meet - Roger Daley

A good turnout of volunteers will be most welcome. Details of work not known at the moment.


March 8th/9th - Alex Mac' Hut Meet - Roger Daley

The Alex Macintyre Hut provides access to some of the finest winter climbing and walking in Scotland.

Climbing

The classic ridge of the Aonach Eagach, or possibly a route on the Buchaille... followed by a pint and some music in the Clachaig's bar? truly excellent day.

Alternatively how about 2/3 routes on Aonach Mor, perfectly feasible utilising the cable car.

Up for a big day then a route on the Ben Nevis provides the perfect challenge.

Walking

Walks too numerous to mention ... go high?or stay low something to suit everyone.

Relaxing

Just imagine yourself settling down in front of the huts roaring fire enjoying a wee dram after a day on the hill? superb. Excellent facilities.

Mattresses, drying room, hot water, showers, electric cooking, fridge, cutlery, crockery, coal provided all the year round, electric heating in dormitories - £1 meter. Microwave in kitchen.

Location

North Ballachulish on A82, one mile north of the Ballachulish Bridge, on the right, 50 metres from the entrance to Creag Mhor Hotel.

OS Map: 41 Ben Nevis. Grid Reference: 044612.

The KMC have booked 12 places at £5.50 per night If you are interested and have the appropriate experience and equipment, then e-mail, phone, or see me in the pub on a Thursday night.


March 9th - Peak District Walk - Iain McCallum

Route : Old Mam Tor Road - Treak Cliff Cavern - Mam Nick - Rushup Edge - Dale Head - Upper Booth - Crowden Clough - Edale - Backtor Farm - Backtor - Castleton - Old Mam Tor Old Road.

Variation - depending on the weather and inclination of the party we could lengthen the walk by traversing Brown Knoll, Edale Head, Pym's Chair, Crowden Tower, Grindslow Knoll and so to Edale. This would add about 3 miles to the walk.

A and B walks maybe.

Map : OS Explorer OL1.

Meet at 9.30am for 9.45am start on the Old Mam Tor Road below the Winnats near the entrance to the Speedwell Mine car park - GR 141829. Parking is free on the left hand side of the road.

Refreshments are available from the local cafe and the Old Nags Head Inn at Edale (Where the KMC was founded in 1944). Also in Castleton towards the end of the walk.

A good tramp around the dales and moors of the Peak Distance about 11/14 miles. Mostly on good paths and tracks. The route can be easily modified to suit the conditions.


April 5th/6th - Cairngorms, Mill Cottage - David K. Lygate

The KMC's Winter Cairngorm meet is the club's once in a season opportunity to visit a most incredible & magical area in winter for walking, climbing, skiing & reindeer. However, such wonders come at a cost, there are only twelve places available. So with the level of interest that has already been shown (pre-publication), we suggest that the hut fee of £6:50 per night (cheques for £13 total payable to the KMC) is forwarded to the meet leader as early as possible to secure your place. The quickest & easiest way to book is to email requesting a place, then when your allocation is confirmed, put a cheque in the post.

Scotland in March, will there still be snow ?

Possible scenarios:

  1. Plenty of snow and ice - well excellent it's exactly what we are going for.
  2. Too much snow - (i.e. very high avalanche warning - SAIS www.sais.gov.uk). Go skiing instead, sounds like perfect conditions for Aonach Mor or the White Corries.
  3. No snow - Treat this as a summer meet but without the fearsome Scottish Midgy.
  4. The west coast has better conditions - We are less than 2 hour's drive from the Ben Nevis.
  5. Totally unbearable conditions all weekend - Go to the Cairngorm Hotel for a fantastic slap-up meal (this scenario has been tried & tested), also the bar has a great atmosphere with an extensive selection of beers & whiskies. If this doesn't appeal, then Craig Marsden might take you shopping, a rare treat!

Now that all fears have been banished, back to scenario 1. The Cairngorms are a magnificent place in the winter or the summer, but especially in winter, be it for walking, skiing or climbing. So here are a few of the local areas of interest.

  1. Coire an t-Sneachda
  2. Cairngorm / Ben Macdui
  3. Lairig Ghru / Braeriach
  4. Creag Meagaidh
  5. Ben Nevis
  6. Plus many, many more including the suggestions above & everything else on the road down south.

I think that all of these areas speak for themselves. So if you are interested plus have appropriate experience & equipment, then e.mail, phone, or see me in the pub on a Thursday night, (places are on a first come first served basis.)

Mill Cottage is 0.25 miles to the North West of Feshie Bridge off the B970. Follow the old A9 to Kincraig, between Kingussie & Aviemore, take the side road to Kincraig (turn east), over bridge & past the Loch Insh Watersports Centre. Left at the T-junction & left into the Forestry Commission car park, taking the left fork onto an unpaved track above the car park. Turn down the right fork after passing below the pylon line, here you will find the hut (approximately 300 yards from the main road). Grid reference 844047, OS sheet 35 - Kingussie. SMC hut guide - "The hut has 8 bunks & a six berth alpine platform, all with mattresses; full cooking & dining facilities are supplied, all electric. Shower, toilets, drying room, multi-fuel stove in lounge with firewood & coal."


April 19th/20th - Ennerdale Meet - Phil Ramsbottom

This is advance notice, (partly because it is raining and I am bored). What I am planning is to walk the best part of the Ennerdale Horseshoe over two days.

I will be leaving the Bowness Knott car park (grid ref NY108154) on the Saturday at about 9.30, heading for Steeple, Scoat Fell, Pillar, Kirk Fell, Great Gable, Green Gable, Brandreth and Grey Knotts spending the Saturday night in a bothy. I am being deliberately obscure about the location as I would prefer to have exclusive access to the bothy, and I don't want this picked up by some search engine.

If you want the exact details drop me an email and I will fill you in about location and facilities (none - apart from walls and a roof). If the idea of the bothy does not suit you there is always a nearby Youth Hostel (for £19 per night) but you will have to sort this out for yourself.

Sunday will involve an early pre breakfast stroll up Fleetwith Pike, then (after numerous brews) Haystacks, High Crag, High Stile and Red Pike before dropping straight down to Gillerthwaite Youth Hostel. The super fit can of course complete the circuit in one day and then spend the Sunday on Pillar Rock, crag rats can just spend two days on Pillar Rock - there are good campsites at Wasdale and Buttermere.

I hope this gives something for everyone - please come along and prove me right.


May 3rd/5th - Isle of Arran - Roger Daley

Arran

"Here the climber is surrounded by a chaos of rock and boulder, soaring summits, frowning precipices and startling pinnacles, that represent a perfect paradise in which to exercise their favourite pursuit. The peaks of Caisteal Abhail and Ceum na Caillich, as seen from the shores of Sannox in wild and misty weather, have a fearful look of life about them, like the primeval sea-monsters tossing their heads in the air."

Extract taken from The Granite peaks of Arran by W. Douglas

The Isle of Arran is the most southerly Scottish island and sits in the Firth of Clyde between Ayrshire and Kintyre. Although only 19 miles long by 10 miles wide it has a remarkable diversity of landscapes and seascapes.

Getting There

There is a regular Ferry service from Ardrossan to Brodick; one of which I will be taking on Friday 2nd May and returning to the mainland on Tuesday, May 6th.

To cross from Ardossan to Brodick you will need to book with Caledonian MacBrayne

Taking your car across is not cheap and you are advised to book early if you intend to do this. I would recommend leaving your car on the mainland and travel across as a foot passenger (£8.95). There is a good bus service which coincides with the arrival of the ferry, see below in Campsite and Location section.

Bus services on Arran including Brodick. For details contact traveline tel: 0871 200 22 33.

Campsite and Location

Our campsite is the Glen Rosa site near to Brodick; it is sited over a very large area of natural ground; the location is exceptional (Site of Special Scientific Interest), next to the Glen Rosa track, which leads to the Arran Hills with access to some excellent climbing, scrambling, walking, including the highpoint of, Goatfell.

The Glen Rosa site is the only one in Brodick; Glen Rosa is two miles (3km) outside of the village. It takes roughly 40 minutes to walk from the pier, however there is a good bus service. Buses coincide with the arrival of the ferries from both Brodick and Lochranza. Ask the driver to stop at the Glen Rosa road.

From Brodick Pier, turn right into Brodick village and continue past the co-op, the guest houses, golf club and Heritage Museum at the junction carry on straight ahead following the signs to Blackwaterfoot, 100 yards on the right is the Glen Rosa track. Book in at the farmhouse (first house on the left immediately on the roadside after the bridge.)

The facilities are very basic, wash hand basins, toilets and bins. Cold, drinkable water is available. There is no hot water, showers or electric hook ups.

  • Telephone: 01770 302380
  • £3.50 per person per night.
  • Dogs are permitted by permission but must be tethered.
  • Campfires are allowed if care is taken.
  • Discounts available for Children.
  • Very limited parking available.
  • No separate charge for cars, dogs or tents.
  • Two and half miles from Brodick pier.
  • One and half miles to the nearest pub/restaurant.
  • No need to book in advance, except for large groups.
  • Noisy groups are not welcome and will be removed.
  • Waterproofs and insect repellents are advised.

If people let me know their interested nearer the time then I can coordinate car sharing etc.


June 21st/22nd - Llanberis Pass - Cwm Glas Mawr hut - Al Metelko

Situated in the heart of Llanberis Pass, surrounded by crags galore, right in the centre of Britain's climbing Mecca is the Cwm Glas Mawr Hut (GR 620 569). Adventures of many kinds can be had from here; Door step climbing with the nearest crag a mere 150m away, Journeys in to the high mountain crags of Cwm Glas, which in turn could be combined with a route or two on Cloggy what could be better than that on the longest day of the year.

There are only 10 places available and £6 per head secures a space. Book your spot early to avoid disappointment.

Below are a number of ideas to whet the appetite -

The Anderson Challenge: one route per crag (not sure what the record is but this is the weekend to break it).

Distance climbed (guide book heights added up): good > 400m, excellent > 700m and superb > 1000m

Linking scrambles: for example - Jammed Boulder Gully -Clogwyn y Person's Arete - Lliwedd West Buttress.

The Almost Two Horseshoes Walk: North Ridge of Crib Goch - Crib y Ddysgl - Snowdon - Lliwedd - Miners Track to point 993 Bwlch Glas - descend Gyrn Las ridge to the hut.

Or just a nice easy day out on the boulders, crags and surrounding hills above and below the hut.


July 14th/20th - Lofoten Islands Meet - Dave Bone

I've reserved the week 14th July to 20th July as a central meeting up week though I would expect to be away for a fortnight to make the most of it. You will be expected to organise yourselves as to getting there and drop in for as long as you want - I'll just be a reference point. Travel arrangements look to be complicated with many options. We'd be based mainly on the island of Austvågøy, main town of Svolvaer.

From what I've seen, it's a stunning place with plenty for climbers & hill-walkers, as well as Bird watching etc. At this time, there will still be some midnight sun (just) so 24 hour climbing is possible, which is handy as good weather cannot be guaranteed. The rock is Granite and all the routes are Trad with very little fixed gear. Routes are 1 to 20 pitches long, with lots under 5. Routes described seem to range from HS to E4 with lots in the VS to E2 range. It's not all about 'hard' climbing - there are also some very good hill walking and scrambling expeditions but don't expect signed paths. Hills are of 'Munro' height - the highest being Higravstinden, 1161m (see Wikipedia Lofoten entry).

You might like to look out for books and maps. THE climbing guide is "Climbing in the Magic Islands" by Ed Webster. It also has some peak bagging and scrambling. It is likely to be hard to find, but you can download a Rockfax mini-guide to the Lofoten Classics, and there is a neat little Matt Heason article on the PlanetFear site. Since I have the first, photocopies of classic sections can be made if all else fails.

"Walks and Scrambles in Norway" by A. Dyer, J. Baddeley and I.H. Robertson ("Rippingyarns.com") - expensive but has 7 hill walking/scrambling expeditions on Lofoten. (I have not stressed the credit card with this one).

Map - "Lofoten 1:100,000" Brandl &Tietjens, Pub. Fachhochschule Karlsruhe, Germany.

Map Norway: 100K and Other Scales Turkart Topographic Hiking Maps, Sheet reference: 2549. Publisher: Ugland IT Group (previously Statens Kartverk). Scale: 1:150,000.

By the same publisher you may be able to get some at 1:50,000. Try ordering from Stanfords.

I've not had much time for research though I'm now making headway so more details will be forthcoming in future issues. Let us know if you like the idea.


January Newsletter Index.


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