Karabiner Mountaineering Club

July 2008 Meet Reports

March 21^st/24^th (Easter) - Snowdonia Scramble; Hut and not Bivi - Dave Bish

The long hard bivvy meet that wasn't.

Well I'm afraid the weather really didn't help attendance at Ty Powdr this Easter. I'd expected to be able to scoop up a few participants from the "regulars" at the hut but it really was quiet! Friday saw us starting as we hoped to go on despite the cold, snow flurries and high winds: Duncan, Vicky, James, Katie and myself scrambled the Western ridge of Tryfan. Three of us did take full rucksack crammed with bivvy gear and although James did an excellent job of feigning last minute keenness, Bristly ridge and a Glyder bivvy was left out in favour of a recce along Heather Terrace in preparation for Vicky's forthcoming Tryfan meet.

Colin, Pete and Sue arrived on Friday night but the weather on Saturday morning proved worse, windier and wetter so we divided forces. Colin was dropped off for a traverse along the Glyders from Pen-Y-Pass back to the hut (he has since suggested an amendment to the club constitution that states all members passing the Vaynol at Nant Peris should pop in for a swift half just in case another club member is in there having descended damp from the hills - naturally on this occasion we drove right past: hutward bound in the evening!).

Duncan and Vicky began the day with a bit of retail therapy and then hit the slate quarries while the truly hardy headed for Bikes Betwys and joined Pete's spin-off mountain bike meet which turned out to be a real hoot and plenty challenging enough for all of us who got well muddy and tired, for those interested in these things the route was the Llyn Elsi trail - a grade 2 I think and the bike shop gave us a good deal on half day rental.

Numbers dwindled on Saturday night leaving Colin, James and me determined to find some dry rock (aka Tremadog by Eric's) while Pete and Sue headed for biking on Anglesey, it being too nasty a day for the Marin trail. At Tremadog we did indeed get a couple of routes in and James got some quality leading and ropework practice and Eric (of the café) made lots of money before we were forced to bale back to the hut for an evening meal of epic proportions and some cleaning duties about which the less you know the better!

Sunday dawned with wind and rain - or was it snow? Our last day looked like a washout and James was pushing for an honourable retirement via a short day on Moel Siabod, Colin was really not inspired but threw the Llechog buttress into our moot. Finally after about an hour's uninspired discussion we headed up the pass and started Llechog. At first merely a damp semi scramble Colin fearlessly led us direct onto the ridge where the snow conditions started to pick up and I found my virtual axe particularly useful (later I swapped this tool with Colin's single axe as I knew he'd only biff himself on the nose again with his) James too was comforted by the virtual rope as we continually crossed and recrossed vertiginous snow in the hope of finding passable rock. Several flurries later we emerged at "Happy Valley" to a trainful of tourists and headed up to Crib-Y-Ddysgl where we planned to descend from via Crib Goch. Snow cover on the train track was generally around 5-10cm and by the time we got to the trig point on Crib-Y-Ddysgl wind speeds were around 65mph. With extreme whimpishness we decided not to traverse Crib Goch and headed back down the PYG track on more than enough snow to glissade down the zig zags. We passed several parties baling out from the easy ascent turned back by snow and were all quite overcome with how fantastic Snowdon looked under snow cover. We hit Pen-Y-Pass just in time for monster chip butties and then back down to the car, hut and home.

Special mentions for honorary meet members should go to Trish who called regularly to see if the weather had improved and Roger Dyke who I phoned regularly to see if the weather was going to improve.

Sunday April 27^th - Lancashire Walk - Frank Williams

Present : Alan Peck, Chris Thickett, Iain McCallum, Jim Gregson, Sandy Gregson, Dave Shotton, Sue Brookes, Joe Flynn, Pete Walker, Dave Sumerfield, Phil Ramsbottom, Keith Williams, Margaret Williams, Frank Williams.

Guests : Nicoletta Bobola, Peter Hughes.

The forecast was awful and as we drove over via the M66 it was raining and the clag was down so I didn't expect a great turnout for this bog trot over the west Lancs moors. Nevertheless, in these days of the last hours of ancient sunlight* folks rang around and we filled the car with five of us. Already at the car park a few KMC'ers were preparing more and more turned up till the complement reached 15, nearly all old friends and longer standing members of the club.

Chris announced that the route wasn't 8 or 9 miles but about 11.5 and suggest a few useful corner cuts. However, I resisted this since I hadn't done 12 since my pacemaker implant, would it stand the strain? I'd handed maps out with gathering points marked in red, which in the event seemed redundant. We left going up the road with further efforts at insubordination suppressed, and swung north along the stony track to Chadderton Close just beyond which we joined the Rossendale Way and turning north west over Beetle Hill. We couldn't get lost, just follow Dave Sumerfield's giant umbrella!

It was great that fellow Via ferrata'ists Chris, Phil, Pete Walker and also later Keith Williams were all present, and what a contrast this trog made to something like Le Trincee !! The route through Alden Ratchers and the gullies below Musden Head moor was full of interest and running water although the weather was improving. We stopped at a ruined farm near Causeway End, the rain had stopped and everyone was content to have lunch, plenty of seating and shelter behind the walls. From here we turned west and south, joined by Keith Williams, and through the chaos caused by building work at Whowell's and on to "The Toby" pub. Surprisingly no one wanted a drink so we carried on south on Broadhead Road to swing left past the reek of the maggot farm and pick up the run-in route of the Three Towers fell race. Keith had joined us somewhere near Whowell Heights and unfortunately had to suffer some of the worst boggy bits on the route. The seepage area on the watershed leading to Bull Hill was the bog trotter's delight as we turned south again to the Pilgrims' Cross where the party gathered, removing "ot's" and having brews again.

From the Peel Tower (one of the few times we've seen it open) we took the direttissima descent down to the Bury Road, B6214, in much improving weather. So the optimism or foolhardiness of the group had paid off and we finished in the dry. Everyone was wearing damp clothing so the idea of the pub didn't appeal and we all made our way home. It was a joy to see people like Dave Sumerfield and catch up with the doings of Pippa and Toby. It was a delight to see Nicoletta again even though conditions were far removed from those of her native Italy. So thanks for supporting the meet, everybody seemed to enjoy it, and it was heart warming to be able to greet so many friends in the KMC. Iain gave JKW a lift back to his car at the Toby Inn.

Plug for my working meet in October, we're hoping to do some decorating, ring me to book a place !

* "The Last Hours of Ancient Sunlight" by Thom Hartmann, a revealing book about our profligate use of fossil fuels, the fact that they will run out soon, and what to do about it.

May 3^rd/5^th - Isle of Arran - Roger Daley

Nobody could be bothered to turn up so I can't be bothered to do a meet report.

Attendees: Annie, Hecla and me.

May 11^th - Bamford Edge - Ann Sanderson

Present: Ian Mariott, Rick, Rob Allen, Heather Brooke, Dan, all the Maplesons, Craig Marsden, Mark Ashley, Sabina Cosulich, Sheena Hendrie, Dave Wylie, Jim, Bob Kelly, Rob Clarke, Julie O'Regan, Christine Beeston, Trish Cranston, Steve Waters, Ann Sanderson, Colin and Roisin Maddison. Al sent apologies...

A very hot day did not deter plenty of activity at Bamford. The Maplesons completed a team ascent of "RockFax 25", Heather scared herself on Bamford Wall whilst Dan "pumped himself stupid" on Neb Buttress "I can feel him shaking down the rope" whispered Heather. Steve bottled out from the Happy Wanderer Happy Wandererand sloped off to climb Wrinkled Wall followed by Bob who learned that the best line to take was the same one as the leader. Kevin soloed Sampsons Delight "in order to preserve my ankles" (no coherent explanation) whilst wearing a fold-up sun hat "good as a helmet too" he claimed. Craig reported that "the gallant Sir Colin has gone to rescue an unknown climber", Julie's third lead of the year was Bamford Wall whilst Trish and Christine marched up Bramble Crack. Sheena managed to set up an unorthodox belay on the single pitch Bamford Buttress.

"The next move is not possible for anyone less than 6 foot", Sheena had apparently chimed whilst waiting for Sabina to lead through... (Sheena, however, claims that the actual words spoken were "it helps if you are 6 foot"). Owen had his own mysterious reason for wandering about with a long chain of extenders and David Wylie was (unusually) the only David present... Rob Allen acquitted himself by spreading malicious gossip for his own amusement between climbs to the mortification of the meet leader. And the meet leader herself? Sat on a boulder all day climbless, bemoaning a strange shoulder lurgy that prevented the left arm from moving. Overall, an excellent day out.

May 17^th/18^th - Brackenclose, FRCC Joint Meet - Chris Thickett

KMC Members: Bob Anderson, James and Kasia Hoyle, Al Metelko, Trish Cranston, John & Virginia Castick, Dave Bish, Katie Horgan, Chris Thickett.

KMC Guests: Mike Freeman, Des Chadderton.

FRCC Members & Guests: Bernard, Josie and Claire Smith, Steve Lyon, Rich Cole, Dave Turner.

Bob and I arrived at the hut at lunch time on Friday to face a mystery. So what do you do in such circumstances? Yes, that's right! We hopped off up the nearest hill - Lingmell in this case! The Corridor Route and the pony track down Wasdale conveniently landed us at the Wasdale Head where we were able to buy the necessary 'Dutch Courage' to face the mystery lying in wait back at the hut. Thus enboldened, I counted again the number of names of 'unbooked' occupants in the hut register - eight! If everyone turned up that would mean there would be too many people. And this was my first FRCC meet and the committee will hang me up by the comestibles! Just when I was starting to control the panic, guess what? Two more turned up! Oh, heck!

Let's look at this again! Right! Two of the originals seem to have gone home. But that leaves six! Later that evening, three boozers returned from the pub and were only staying Friday night. And it appears the remaining three had not booked out when they left - so it was another bastard's comestibles that were going to be stretched! Hurray! Thus Rich and Dave were able to stay and become part of the meet whether they liked it or not.

Mike and Des were off before the streets were aired on Saturday morning and before many of us admitted to being awake. Just before dark they returned after climbing three routes on Scafell - Botterill's Slab, Hopkinson's Gully and Moss Ledge Direct. They could be described as happy but knackered.

Also on Scafell, Al and Trish did Moss Ghyll with Josie and Steve completing Slab and Groove. All seemed satisfied with their choices. The rain just about stayed away; the mist just about stayed away; the cold wind just about stayed away. These six were the only ones climbing on Scafell that day. Meanwhile, Rich and Dave enjoyed climbing New West on Pillar.

Bernard and Claire scrambled on Wistow Crags on Pillar then continued round the Mosedale horseshoe anticlockwise. On Scoat Fell they bumped into James, Kasia, Uncle Bob and myself. J & K were doing the horseshoe in a clockwise direction whilst U B and me were headed over Steeple and Haycock.

Late Saturday arrivals incuded John and Midge who had been bashing 'Birketts', seven in total, in the Devoke Water area. Also, Dave and Katie decided swarming all over the Scafells would be good late afternoon exercise.

Dave and Rich were first off on Sunday morning, intending to climb on Wallowbarrow on the way home. Star climbers on Sunday were Al and Des who ascended Central Buttress who in turn were photographed by John and Midge on their way to locate the highest tarn in the Lakes - Broad Crag Tarn near Mickledore.

However, it was the Napes, which had to brace itself again the onslaught of the meet. James, Kasia, Trish and Mike did Needle Ridge whilst the Smiths and Steve did Abbey Buttress. Nobody returned to the hut complaining!

Bob and I went to have a look at Pillar and caught a glimpse of Dave Bish wizzing round the Mosedale Horseshoe. Although feeling ill about the gills or head, Katie went runabout round about Illgill Head.

So, as you can see, the meet was something of a success with everyone impressed with the hut and the area. At least, that's what I'm claiming.

May 24^th/26^th - Tyndrum - Keith Williams

The meet was cancelled due to lack of interest.

Which is your loss as that weekend in Scotland had unbroken sunshine. The West Coast had been the place to be in May, especially Skye, which had had 4 weeks with insignificant rainfall and some roasting temperatures (sorry, Keith). The Ed was out in Knoydart performing the spring Tree count and vegetation monitoring (more new species to look up in the books), and the regeneration in some areas is fantastic. Just a little rain on the Thursday before and on Wednesday afterwards (though I was out on Blaven assisting in laying out insect traps), plus clearing low cloud and light showers on the 2nd Thursday, otherwise it was on with the suncream - even the midges were little trouble. The work was done early in the conditions so we had an opportunity for a full circuit of the excellent Ladhar Bheinn before I returned the kit to the JMT base on Skye. While there, just had to go into Coruisk for a couple of days and scramble on the Cuillin, and visit some unusual nooks and crannies. Never seen Coruisk so dry and the Ridge was a procession of people at all hours. The weather broke as I drove out of the carpark at Victoria Bridge for home on the Sunday - perfect!

[Pictures by D. Bone, 25th May 2008]

Ed.

June 7^th/8^th - Working Party Meet - Roger Daley

Attendees: Iain McCallum, Joe Flynn, John Dobson, Al, James Hoyle, Kasia, Dave Bish jnr, Dave Bish snr (Guest), Dave Shotton, Chris Williams, Annie (Guest), Hecla the hound, and me.

An excellent working party blessed with sunny weather which allowed us to complete a range of jobs inside and out.

Followed by a good BBQ Saturday night; great fun watching Baron Bish incinerate various animals on his turbo BBQ.

Work Completed:

• Front lobby painted
• Steel door to storage hut wire brushed down and painted
• Top dorm painted
• Top dorm shelving painted
• Loose front step pinned and glued in place
• Broken front door window replaced
• Gents cleaned
• Kitchen area cleaned
• Removal of old fire signs & installation of new signs
• More ditch digging
• Windows cleaned
• Vermin control - Baby rabbit eaten alive ; with a mouse to follow

Sunday

Climbing, walking and chilling.

An excellent weekend, lots of work done in good company.

A good turn out: 10 members, two guests and a hound; this being 9 members and one guest more than my Arran meet. Never mind the week in Skye with Warwick Climbing Club more than compensated.

June 14^th - The Roaches - James Hoyle

Me and Kasia arrived at about 9:30 on Saturday morning raring to get stuck into some climbs at our first visit to the Roaches. Finding myself caught short I managed to sweet talk myself into Rockhall Cottage, which surely must have the most unique kitchen in the UK, being built into the rock itself. Unsurprisingly I was told it gets a bit damp and greasy in there in the winter so perhaps not a design that will catch on.

No one else had yet arrived so we started off up Raven Rock Gully with a lovely squeeze up through the top. Whilst half way through this voices rose up from the bottom of the crag and I knew others must have arrived. I was met by a further eleven members of the KMC when I returned to the crag's base, a number which was set to grow as the day went on.

Al, Trish and Cristina started climbing in the Dorothy's Dilemma area whilst Kate and Dave went for the smelly sounding Guano Gully on Elegy. By the time Midge arrived she was just in time to see Dave Wylie and Julie O'Regan having a bit of a mission on Valkyrie but their resilience won out at the end of the day and they got to the top.

Des and Mike won the award for the hardest climbs attempted during the day. I didn't see many of them but they climbed the elegant and varied line of Hawkwing, which travelled through some impressive positions.

Ken Beetham came to watch the action for part of the day as he went for a walk around the Roaches area. After stopping for a good chat he zoomed off up the steps and onto the Upper Tier.

I also spied Joe Flynn and his daughter climbing the slabs in the Chalkstorm area but by this time it was getting towards lunch and many of us decided to move onto the Upper Tier. This proved harder than some of the climbs as our first effort was repelled by National Park rangers concerned that the nesting Peregrine was being disturbed, and we walked around to the Wombat Area from the left hand side with the bird majestically screeching and soaring above our heads as it tried to return to its nest with food. It was an impressive sight.

Midge led the amazingly good line of Maud's Garden which had its first ascent by our own Bowden Black back in 1945 and other lines climbed included Beckermet Slab, Heather Slab and Capitol Climb; led by a first timer with the club James, who at just 17 looked a very promising climber.

My stomach was beginning to rumble badly by this point so we all decided to call it a day and headed off to a nearby pub. Unfortunately Mike took a plunge seconding what I think was his last climb of the day and got the rope caught around his finger making a nasty mess. Fortunately we were all so hungry he didn't put us off our dinner! Much merriment was provided at the pub by some rather disorganised service. It seemed that the earlier you placed your order the later your food arrived but thankfully everyone eventually got served with Mike managing an impressive amount of chocolate fudge cake. Great turnout and I hope everyone had a great time.

June 28^th/29^th - Welsh Mystery Rock - Dave Bone

Members present: Dave Bone & Tony Major.

Despite a gloomy outlook and a cloudbase of ~400m on the Saturday, two good HVS's on Upper Craig y Merched were completed, also despite a wet trek through the greenery to a crag at 300m on a rather leaky hillside (fortunately not requiring the virtual compass). Perhaps as well we were the only ones there as we had to evade the territorial Peregrine pair on the way up.

July Newsletter Index.

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