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Karabiner Mountaineering Club

May 2009 Meet Reports


January 25th - Pot Scar - Duncan Lee

Present: Dan O'Brien, Scott Saddler, Geoff Hibbert, Trish Cranston, Mike Farrel, James Hoyle, Kasia Hoyle, Heather Brooke, Andrew Ketley, Rachel Ketley, Geraldine de Silva, Christine Stark, Rachel Flynn and Katie.

The morning sunlight illuminated the crag nicely, but sadly revealed lots of black wet streaks, as Scott and I parked up in Feizor. A good drying "breeze" coupled with blinding optimism convinced us to head straight to the crag rather than the café and we were rewarded with finding a dry route amongst the drainage lines, the fun Mort's Crack (HVS). Once at the top, whilst coiling the ropes in a zephyr, we got to witness the main group of KMCers head DIRECTLY to the crag, the shortest line is not always the best but thankfully the farmer didn't notice which was a very good job because the next group approached the escarpment via the same route. The Ketley's then failed their KMC initiation test by managing to correctly navigate their way to the cliff using the agreed access route.

What happened next was then a real shocker. The crag dried nicely and everyone climbed lots and lots of routes. Mind you it wasn't really the kind of day for sitting around leisurely eating lunch whilst admiring the snowy views across the Forest of Bowland. Keeping moving was a great way of staying warm whilst working off the frustrations of all that time spent at boring indoor walls. Plus as the day progressed the wind dropped and the temperature rose, but the climbing frenzy continued unabated with numerous routes being ascended including Payback (HS), Rebate(VDiff), Stone Soup (E1), Nirvana (VS), Addiction (VS), Ring Groove (HVS) and the crag classic Sunspot(E1). Virtually everyone was on the sharp end of the rope at some stage or another, in fact the very sharp end for Andrew who did a fine bit of "bleed" climbing on Equity (S), leaving a nice trail of red holds that would not have looked out of place on a climbing wall.

James then took over the mantle of entertainer in chief whilst stretching Geoff's rope by repeatedly falling of The Pusher. A trick some little number at VS, not that he expressed that sentiment that politely as he vowed to return for a rematch later in the year. The last rays of the sun saw us all back in Feizor sat outside the café doing some well deserved extensive research into the quality and quantity of the homemade cakes. It was thumbs up all round.

Cheers to everyone who came along and helped to make it a very enjoyable day.


February 28th/March 1st - Lagangarbh Hut, Glencoe - Brian Street

Members present: Dave Lygate, Sean Kelly, James Hoyle, Kasia Hoyle, Brian Street.

Guests: Andrew Ketley, Rachel Ketley.

Friday 27th February

Dave Lygate and I had a plan! We had a leisurely departure from Didsbury and headed up to the Lakes. The plan was to whip up Hellvelyn via Striding Edge. We parked in a very tranquil Glen Ridding (plenty of parking and no crowds) then set off on the slog upwards. It quickly became apparent to me that Dave's idea of whipping up Hellvelyn was somewhat different to my own. Armed with his trekking poles, Dave shot off up the hill oblivious to the fact that it was fairly steep and sustained going! The click, click click of his trekking poles on the stony path bizarrely reminded me of the sound of my gran knitting (she was quite quick at knitting!) On nearing the ridge we met a guy coming back down. "Don't suppose you've seen any glasses have you?" he enquired. We hadn't but we offered to help him look, in truth not thinking how far down he might have lost them! He declined our offer but before we left him, we confirmed that he could indeed see well enough to find the mislaid specs.
Dave Lygate on a misty but empty Striding Edge
Dave Lygate on a misty but empty Striding Edge.

There was still some patchy snow along the top and although in the cloud, Striding Edge was devoid of people - a first for me on this route! Hence we were able to quickly traverse the ridge and plod up to the summit of Hellvelyn for a well-earned break before heading back down to the car. A quick change and we were heading off North to Scotland to arrive at the King House by 9pm to meet up with Sean Kelly and a pint of 80/

Sean had been in Scotland all week and over our drinks, he cheered our weary souls with tales of relentless rain and wind (he had even been blow off his belay seat at one stage). That day Sean had made an attempt on Ben Lui and had managed to cross a few burns in spate but when he found himself up to his thighs in water he finally decided to retreat.

The three of us headed back to the Lagangarbh hut and found the home fire already burning and the other four members of our party already in residence. In addition, a party of about eight jovial souls from the SMC were also staying at the hut.

At something like 10.30pm, James popped his head into the room to say that Andrew had got his car stuck on the track. The story goes that Rachel had lost her head band whilst bringing gear up to the hut and Andrew had moved the car to use the headlights to find it. For those that have had the pleasure of parking at the Lagangarbh, it is not for the faint hearted (or owners of low slung cars)! A careless manoeuvre will quite happily remove your exhaust quicker than a quick-fit-fitter. Andrew had, however, avoided the rocks but had found a decent patch of mud in which he was well and truly stuck. James jumped forth to the rescue in his own car and a toe rope but alas, with half a burned out clutch it seemed to be to no avail. In desperation the AA were called. Surely this is a record (even for the KMC)! To have an epic getting from the car to the hut, almost benighted in the car park, emergency rescue called. er? did I mention that I had a part-time job making up stories for the tabloids. There is a happy ending though. James discovered that whilst his car was in gear and revving it's little engine out, Andrew's car was in neutral and sat like a dead weight. Armed with this new information, with two cars working in unison there was success. The AA was cancelled (or so they thought) and all retired back to the hut for some well earned alcohol. Plans were made for the next day (which were changed anyway), more drink and then bed.


Saturday 28th February

Our combined forecasts were for an overcast Saturday with showers but for a more promising Sunday. Did that deter us? Well? not yet!

Dave, Sean and myself set out to do a gully approach to Bidean nam bian. After a couple of hours or so of walking through the waterlogged valley, we found ourselves looking up at the steep accent to the snow filled gully which disappeared into the mist. As we ate lunch, Sean reminisced about the last time that he had done this route with perfect neve and clear blue skies. He then promptly packed up his lunch and headed back down the valley!

Undeterred, Dave and I climbed up the steep slopes until we reached the first of the snow, which was horribly wet. Unfortunately the snow did not improve greatly as we climbed higher. However, we could see that the ridge was not far off but alas? the snow virtually disappeared in the last 30 feet leaving wet, sloping or vertical rock between us and the ridge. I could feel an epic coming on! Dave took a route to the left and from his cussing I thought that I was better off moving to the right where I thought the vertical rock might yield an easy climb to the top. Appearances can be deceptive! I reached the vertical rock with some difficulty but found the hopeful route to be a tad more difficult than it had looked especially with the rock running with melted snow water! Dave meanwhile was telling me not to come the way he had taken as it was "desperate". I fancied my choice of route even less. One slip and it was a long way back down on the wet snow in the gully. I reversed the few moves I had made and found that Dave had managed to surmount the cornice (he later said that he had used his trekking poles to spread the weight for his knee as he pulled over - such was the poor condition of the snow). From his new vantage point, Dave said that if we had taken the next gully to the left there was a much easier exit route. The words "oh bugger" did come to mind. With Dave urging me not to take the route he had just taken I was resigned to retrace my steps back down the route we had just come which was in itself none too easy. In any event, once on the slope, I got into a steady rhythm and was soon back down to where we had stopped for lunch.

Dave completed the route and came back down the lost valley to meet back up at the car. All safe and well and another escapade to chalk up to experience!

On the same day, James and Kasia went to climb Broad Gully but found the snow conditions to be similar to those encountered by us. Having disappeared up to their waists several times they decided on an alternative plan and practiced making snow bollards, glissading and other such antics. Thus we all returned back to the hut and made more plans, over beer and wine, on what to do with the fine sunny Sunday that was forecast?.


Sunday 1st March

The weather was the same as Saturday - robbed again! On the plus side, two days in Scotland with only a bit of rain - not bad! Sean made a start on his long journey back to Devon (didn't envy him there). Andrew and Rachel had decided to stay another day but today's plan was to walk up to the start of the Aonach Eagach ridge. James and Kasia decided upon the Ice Factor. Dave and myself opted to climb up the Buckle via the central gully since it was on our doorstep and would be a quick route before the drive home. Today the temperature was colder and when we reached the snow line, to our relief, it was in much better condition than the day before. It was therefore a very pleasant climb up the snow to the col and then a plod up to the summit. Occasionally the cloud even parted enough for us to see the lovely views? but only briefly! Nonetheless we felt very satisfied to have done a very nice half-day outing (epic-free!) before we headed back home.

Thanks to all who attended - good company, food, wine and venue - what more can one ask for!

Lagangarbh hut with the Buachaille Etive Mor looming in the background
Lagangarbh hut with the Buachaille Etive Mor looming in the background.


March 7th/8th - FRCC Join Meet, Salving House Borrowdale - Chris Thickett

KMC Joint Meeters: Graham Harkness, John Castick, Midge Castick, Dave Wylie, Kate Wels (G), James Hoyle, Kasia Hoyle, Alison Dixon (G), Bob Kelly, Pete Kossowski (G), Trish Cranston.

FRCC Joint Meeters: Ron Chambers, Ruth Chambers, Ken Jackson, Graham Townsend, Bob McAdam (CC), Anne Burbidge, Helen Garrett, David Evans, Ann-Marie Handerson, Leslie Shore, Steve Riley (G).

Multiple Meeters Loosely Jointed: Bob Anderson, Chris Thickett.

Friday afternoon was lovely and sunny, spring-like even, and the early arrivers, Ken, Bob A and myself, enjoyed a pleasant circular walk taking in Dock Tarn.

Saturday was not so nice but not raining first thing. However, we all encountered high winds and driving rain before long.

The main party of walkers 'followed' me on a walk up Dalehead then on to Hindscarth, down the ridge to Little Town, over the pass to Grange and back through the woods to the hut where everyone arrived back very wet. I use the word 'followed' advisably as the walk was led from the back although in my defence I claim I was never more than 3 miles behind at any point during the day. Ken was the only other walker left within range when I reached the Grange teashop - so all the others missed out on the treat of tea and Borrowdale tea-bread.

James led another party to climb the Cam Crag scramble from which they almost got blown off before getting very wet. Graham T and Bob Mc climbed Troutdale Pinnacle Direct then they got very wet. Ron with Ruth and Bob K with Alison headed over towards Gable where they got very wet. John did a circular via Honister Pass then got very wet. Bob A walked in the Borrowdale woods then got very wet. Still, Friday afternoon was fine!

Before evening meals were cooked, just about everyone retired for refreshments in the Scafell Hotel, more or less taking over the bar. During the evening, this atmosphere of conviviality continued round the fire and tables of the hut - truly a proper joint meet between the two clubs.

On Sunday the weather wasn't so bad but heavy hail showers kept us on our toes. However, it was bad enough that even Graham T left his climbing gear hung up in the hut. Another large mixed bunch of members went out to meet the elements around Watendlath, Ladore and Grange. Last to leave that morning was Bob A and myself. We headed up Langstrath to find the secret cave, which still remains secret as far as Bob and I are concerned.

Everyone who turned up seemed to enjoy themselves despite the weather - still, Friday afternoon was fine!


March 15th - Derwent/Strines Walk - Iain McCallum

Members: John Castick, Virginia Castick, Joanne Castick, Alan(H) Jones, Bob Kelly,

Iain McCallum, Phil Ramsbottom, Dave Shotton, Dave Wylie.

Guests: Margaret Baldock, Joe Callan, Angela Ison, Mark Heslop.

On a glorious day thirteen walkers and two dogs set off from the lay-by through Fairholmes , up past the dam and then along the track bordering the eastern edge of the Derwent Reservoir to the bottom of Walker's Clough. From here we climbed up the hillside to the sign post at junction of the paths. Here we re-grouped before heading east to Lost Lad and Back Tor. The cairn at Lost Lad is said to commemorate the legend of the thirteen years old shepherd boy who died here in nineteenth century. At Back Tor we stopped for elevenses in a sun trap just below the Trig Point. This spot proved to be most popular with other walkers.

Leaving Back Tor we made our way at a smart pace down Foulstone Road to Strines Bridge and then along the road and lane to Brogging. We were now down to nine walkers and two dogs, the Castick Group having opted for an alternative walk south along the Derwent edges. Below Strines Reservoir we traversed the slope above Dale Dike Reservoir towards Andrew Wood and the path leading out of the valley to Blindside Lane and the disused quarry above. At the quarry we stopped for lunch and a chat about films and books. Looking down on the still waters of the reservoir below it was difficult to imagine the catastophe which occurred in 1864 when the dam burst. It devastated parts of Sheffield and killed 244 people.

From the quarry we climbed the hillside above following the path to Wet Shaw Lane and Stake Hill Road. Suddenly the peace and quiet of the countryside was shattered by the roar of trail bikers splashing through the large muddy puddles as they passed us on the track. After passing Moscar House we followed the old Sheffield to Ashopton road past the ancient milestone to Cutthroat Bridge. It seems the Bridge acquired its rather gruesome name following the murder of a man there in 1635.

Leaving the old road, we followed the rough track up hill to the Derwent Edge. From the Edge we tramped rapidly along the hillside until we reached the path dropping down from the Edge below Wheel Stones. Just below the wall we stopped for a drink. Our lofty perch afforded us great views over the Derwent Valley and the hills beyond - the Scout, Bleaklow and Mam Tor. We also had a grandstand view of the mountain bikers peddling furiously, making their way slowly up the track.

The final section of the walk took us down hill to the Ladybower Reservoir and the track along its banks to Fairholmes (which was now full of cars and thronged with people) and so back to our cars in the lay-by.

A really good day in the Peak blessed with a touch of Spring weather.

Thank you all for your support.

Large Packs for a Derwent Walk
Large Packs for a Derwent Walk [Phil Ramsbottom].


March 21st/22nd - Alex MacIntyre hut - Mark Garrod

Members present: Colin Maddison, Andy Grantham, Roger Daley, James Hoyle, Chris Williams, Dave Lygate, Tony Gask, Mark Ashley, Michelle Harvie, Mark Garrod.

Guests: May Macleod, Sheila Grey.

The weather forecast was fantastic for the first part of the weekend, and that helped fill the hut with keen KMC's from late Thursday evening onwards. Andy and Roger took advantage of the sunshine to do the Aonach Eagach in what they described as summer conditions, bar about 20' on snow. I thought I heard Roger complain about it being too hot! Michelle and I did some of the eastern Mamores, including Sgurr Elide Mor and Binnein Mor. Meanwhile, the other "in-Scotland-already" people also took advantage of the glorious day, with May and Sheila attacking the steep slopes of Fort William high street, Dave blagging some free runs on Meall a'Bhuiridh ski slopes, and Tony getting half way up a Blackmount peak near Victoria Bridge before deciding it was time for a beer. Coincidentally, the Aonach Eagach and Fort William teams then met and conversed in the Clachaig, despite not knowing each other.

Friday night (and a fair chunk of Saturday morning for some) involved eating (especially the massive pile of fresh homemade scones brought along by Sheila), drinking, and dancing, including a show by Dave and May of the Death Dive, luckily with no death, probably only because the whisky tasting had only just begun.

Saturday started very early for the Ben Nevis climbing teams of James and Chris, and Colin and Dave - the latter having to be woken at least three times due to having incinerated the candle at both ends. They both enjoyed their routes, despite both missing their original targets due to the mist being down. The weather did start misty and with slight drizzle, but from between noon and 2pm it magically cleared to give a sunny day again. Mark A, Andy and Roger did Stob Ghabhar and Stob a'Choire Odhair, whilst Michelle, Tony and Mark G did Bidean nam Bian. Sheila and May took themselves off to the eastern Mamores. Tony then had to head off, as did Dave, to ensure his kilt fitted ahead of a wedding on Sunday. Saturday evening saw all remaining members head down to the Clachaig for some beers and live musical entertainment - thanks to May and Mark A for driving.

Sunday was overcast, windy, and the occasional slight drizzle, so not many high mountains were on the agenda. Some folks headed straight off, others had walks of varying distance before hitting the road. Chris's boots almost went for a walk minus their owner, but the guy who picked them up realised his error and got them back while we were still swithering on what to do. Thanks to everyone for coming and making it a very enjoyable meet.


April 4th/5th - Bob Graham Walk - Des Chadderton

Attendees: Katie Horgan, David Bish, James Hoyle, Kasia Hoyle, Chris Thickett, Al Metelko, John Cox.

Guest: Des Chadderton.

Six arrived on Friday evening to the warmth of the fire at Rawhead Barn and good conversation.

Saturday saw three parties try their luck as Dave and Des ran in challenging conditions from Threlkheld to Dunmail Rise via the Helvellyn ridge. Dave then continued to New Dungeon Ghyll via Steel Fell and High Raise. Chris, Kasia and James made for Blencathra to climb Sharp Edge but retreated due to poor conditions and Katie went running with her 'Lakeland 50' team mate at lower elevation.

After a day of troublesome weather, all visited the pub. Followed by a sociable evening in Rawhead Barn, including the late-comer Al. Then disturbed by a recurring Bob Graham nightmare Dave awoke Des at midnight to go for a run and after five hours staggering atop the summits of Skiddaw, Great Calva and Blencathra the recorded return time was 6.30 am. And bed called!

Sunday saw the arrival of John Cox and because of said sleepy runners a very late start. Kasia and James climbed at Scout Crags while Katie kindly offered to recover walking victims at Wasdale Head. And so Chris, John, Dave, Al and Des set off walking up to Pike of Stickle where Chris set off to scramble up another peak before returning to Rawhead Barn. John, Dave, Al and Des continued walking to Wasdale Head via Rossett Pike, Bowfell, Esk Pike, Great End, Ill Crag, Broad Crag and Scafell Pike. A wet Broadstand stopped the party making it up Scafell.

From Scafell Pike it was a slog downhill. With beer and food as compensation and Katie offering lifts via two of the scariest passes in the lakes; Hardknott and Wrynose. Adrenaline junkies just drive this road! It is unbelievable! [But not as unbelievable when you meet a caravan!]


May Newsletter Index.


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