Karabiner Mountaineering Club

July 2009 Forthcoming Meets

All note the following small print when taking part in meets :-

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."

July 12^th - Dovestones Fell Run - Roy Lee

This should only take the fit a morning or so, hopefully visiting the Farriers (?) afterwards. Meet in the Dovestones Reservoir car-park (pay and display) for a 10am start. GR013034. The exact route is still in planning so you'll need to be on time for final directions, but the total distance will be around 8 miles. [As long as you all return in better shape than last time. Ed].

July 18^th/19^th - Hut Working Party - James Hoyle

This is the only working party of the summer so some crucial outdoor work is necessary. The following tasks have been identified by the Hut Management Group.

1. Painting of the eaves which are beginning to see the paint peel from them and are in need of a recoat.
2. Painting and repairs to the emergency exit door and the gas store door
3. New mattress covers to be sewn for 3 of the beds that have become ripped. (They are an odd size, which is why they cannot be bought off the peg.)
4. Redecoration of the kitchen (exact amount depends on the number of members who attend).

A good turnout would be much appreciated and there is plenty of work that is suitable for anyone no matter how good your DIY skills. In the evening we plan to have a barbecue so don't forget your chicken wings and veggie burgers as well as your paint brushes! Sides e.g. salad will be provided and hopefully all the hard work can be appreciated over a glass or two of your favourite tipple. On Sunday I hope everyone will get out into the hills be it for a climb or a walk.

Thank you to everyone for your support.

August 1^st/2^nd - 10 Gritstone Edges Challenge - Al Metelko

When I first joined the club this is one of those meets I quite enjoyed but has not been repeated since. It could be seen as alpine training (for those heading to the Alps later in the month) as it involves approximately 19km (12 miles) of walking (between Stanage Popular End car park to Robin Hood Inn car park) and 10 pitches of climbing.

As it's a straight line walk I need to organise transport between the two car parks so it would be useful to let me know if you are going to attend. And if you are on your own, you need to be paired up as I'd rather not have people soloing routes no matter how good they are on this meet. Also if any one wishes to climb only at Birchen Edge or nearby then it would be great if they could bring back people to their cars at Stanage.

It's up to individual teams to decide which route to do on each crag but for those who don't have much time, here's a of possible routes:

CRAG	Distance (km)	diff	MID-GRADE (TD)	LOW-GRADE (PD)
Stanage	0.5	0.5	Heather Wall ** (14m) VS 4c Gargoyle Buttress ** (14m) VS 4b Hargreaves Original Route *** (18m) VS 4c	Crack and Corner *** (16m) S 4b Black Hawk Hell Crack *** (14m) S 4a Black Hawk Traverse Right ** (16m) D Flying Buttress *** (24m) HVD
Burbage North	3.0	2.5	Agnostic's Arête * (8m) VS 5a Hollyash Crack ** (14m) VS 4b Knight's Move *** (16m) HVS 5a	Ash Tree Wall ** (14m) S 4a Sentinel Crack * (10m) D Still Orange * (12m) S 4a Green Crack * (12m) VD
Higger Tor	4.5	1.5	The File *** (10m) VS 4c	Leaning Block Gully (10m) HVD Paddock * (6m) VD Greymalkin * (6m) S 4a
Millstone Edge	6.5	2.0	Great North Road *** (32m) HVS 5a Bond Street *** (20m) HVS 5a Gimcrack * (22m) VS 4c	The Scoop * (35m) D Lambeth Chimney * (22m) HS 4b Brixton Road * (24m) VD Chiming Crack * (10m) HS 4a
Lawrencefield	7.4	0.9	Great Harry *** (22m) VS 4c Excalibur ** (20m) VS 4c	Pulpit Groove ** (28m) VD 4a Snail Crack * (10/16m) VD Nailsbane * (10/16m) VD
Yarncliffe	8.6	1.2	Cardinal's Arête * (20m) VS 4c	Ant's Crack * (16m) S 4a
Froggatt Edge	12.4	3.8	Sunset Slab *** (14m) HVS 4b Hawk's Nest Crack *** (12m) VS 4c	North Climb * (12m) HVD 4a Heather Wall *** 16m) HVD 3c Slab Recess ** (16m) D
Curbar	13.9	1.5	The Brain ** (18m) VS 4c Bel Ami ** (16m) VS 4b	Flying Buttress * (12m) S 4a Flying Buttress Right * (10m) S 4a P.M.C. 1 *** (16m) HS 4a
Gardoms Edge	16.9	3.0	Undertaker's Buttress ** (22m) VS 4c Gardom's Unconquerable ** (14m) VS 4c Oread ** (16m) VS 4c Apple Arête *** (18m) VS 4b	Moyer's Climb * (14m) S 4a Byne's Route * (14m) HVD 4a N.M.C. Crack *** (14m) HVD Apple Crack ** (16m) VD
Birchen Edge	17.8	0.9	Porthole Direct ** (12m) VS 4c Topsail ** (12m) VS 4c Camperdown Crawl *** (14m) VS 4c	The Funnel * (12m) D Sail Chimney ** (14m) S 4a Trafalgar Wall ** (12m) S 4b
Robin Hood Inn	18.8	1.0

A PDF version of the list of routes is available for easy printing.

The forecast looks OK for the Sunday, therefore to complete the challenge you will need to start from Stanage Popular car park at around 9am. If you arrive after this time send me a text message. I'll provide a route map, but you will need guide book(s).

August 9^th - Yorkshire Climbing - Trudie Young

Meeting at Brimham Rocks, meet from 1030hrs at the Lovers Leap area. A good mix of routes and very family friendly if you wish to bring the kids.

Very popular area and the non-paying parking options fill out quickly. For those new to the area, follow the track past several of the boulders (!) to the toilet block then head South-west from the open area, to find the Edge most likely at the northern end of the Lover's leap section. If you have large friends bring them - they will help cushion a fall. Ed.

August 15^th/16^th - Kinder Bivouac - Dan O'Brien

If there is a sure-fire way to guarantee a wholly wet and miserable weekend then it's to organise a KMC bivvi meet! With this in mind I intend to keep the plan brief.

We will meet in Hayfield and try to find somewhere to stow vehicles for the following 36hrs. With this in mind it is worth considering car sharing or *gulp* public transport. Our merry band will then wander in to the Pagoda and the Kinder Southern Edges ( Grid Ref SK 088869 (Landranger #110) ) for the morning's climbing.

I know there are only a limited number of routes on this buttress but one of them defeated me early in my climbing career (~10 years ago) and it's high time Herford's Route got it's comeuppance! What to do in the afternoon/evening will be left to good old climbing democracy but I will over-rule anyone who disagrees with me!

The bivvi will take place near kinder downfall to allow for some excellent night climbing opportunities!

Sunday I intend to climb on the Northern Edges so anyone just coming out for that day should head for Brothers Buttress (Grid Ref SK 099891 (Landranger #110)) and we will probably be the group have our jamming weaknesses sought out by Legacy HVS***.

The Western Grit Rockfax or the BMC Kinder Guide has all the crags. If we are really organised we might even be able to split gear to minimise duplication.........If only.

Pack your thermals and your waterproofs!

Any questions, my number is in the handbook.

August 15^th/28^th - Saas Grund Alpine Meet - Andy Grantham

At last, it can be announced. This year's Alpine Meet will be held at Saas Grund in the Saastal valley, in the Valais Alps East.

Saas Grund is an ideal base surrounded by several 4,000m peaks including the Lagginhorn and Weissmies on the east side of the valley and the Dom, the Täschhorn, the Lenzspitze, the Nadelhorn and numerous other peaks on the west side. Routes of all standards are available with plenty to do for those with all levels of experience.

Camping is available at the Camping Am Kapellenweg (www.kapellenweg.ch, tel: 0041 27 957 49 97) camp site.

Hope to see as many as possible.

Would all members either definitely, or thinking of, attending the Alpine meet please get in touch with Andy Grantham so that numbers can be confirmed. Car sharing - there is room for 1 in at least one car driving down to the Alps, please reply if you are interested.

August 22^nd/23^rd - Three Tarns and a River - Midge Castick and Michelle Harvie

Time to put away those rock boots and slip into something more comfortable - water. This meet will be based in Borrowdale. We will be using Stonethwaite campsite (Tel 0176777234) at the end of Langstrath at GR268133. It is a bit basic with a rough approach track but that should keep the hordes at bay. You won't need a shower anyway. I haven't yet checked the need to book but will do nearer the time. There is a pub very close by in Stonethwaite ( its name eludes me).

The walk will start from the campsite on the Saturday. We will follow the main Borrowdale valley to Seathwaite and head off to Styhead and its tarn. Those not swimming are welcome as bag carriers. A short distance leads us to Sprinkling Tarn then over Esk Hause and down to Angle tarn. There follows a long descent of Langstrath with as many swims as you want on the way down . Blackmoss Pot is the main target where, if you are brave you'll jump in, or if not, just cruise through the rocks for two hundred metres of pure magic. Follow the stream all the way back to the campsite either along the path or walking/ swimming your way along the beck. The whole walk is about 12 miles. Unless it is a spectacularly hot day or you're just plain mad (like Michelle), we advise a trip to Decathlon or similar and buy a cheap shortie wetsuit. This should be less than the price of a good cossie anyway. Please take old shoes to swim in.

On Sunday feel free to put your rock boots back on. There is a wealth of good climbing in Langstrath itself plus the rest of Borrowdale of course. If you prefer and your feet are now permanently webbed anyway, how about a swim across Derwentwater...

August 29^th/31^st - Ty Powdwr - Peter Walker

Climbers will, as usual do their own thing but if they would like to evade the Bank Holiday crowds I could suggest a few crags not likely to be busy.

Walkers - a chance to do some end to end walking based on the hut with transport provided. For example, Beddgelert to the hut, Pen y Gwryd to the hut, or either in reverse. Or any other suggestions? 'phone me to arrange.

I have 2 or 3 other walks suitable for fellow geriatrics!

September 6^th - Peak Climbing - Bamford - James Hoyle

I will have just returned from the Alps prior to this meet so the short walk in to the base of this crag will no doubt make a pleasant change. This is a great piece of rock for a day out in sunny weather so here's hoping. There are some great routes right across the grade bands. I will be at the car parking area on the road side at about 10 O'clock. No doubt the pub may well be calling at the bottom of the hill by the end of the day. I know we went to Bamford last year but I couldn't make it and everyone seemed to have fun so I thought a repeat visit might be welcomed. Hope to see you there.

September 12^th/13^th - Cycling Scottish Borders - Andrew Croughton

I intend to camp at Ashieview Stud farm camp site in Ancrum, telephone: 01835 830592 or 07814 679854. The cost is £4.50 per person per night.

From A68 approx 3 miles north of Jedburgh, take the B6400 (signed Lilliesleaf & Ancrum). Campsite approx 2 miles past village green on the right, 300 yards past Ashieburn farmhouse and Caravan Club Site.

Saturdays intended route, from campsite to Melrose on to Kelso and back to Ancrum. The ride is approximately 44 miles on good quiet roads with moderate hills, but nothing too strenuous.

Sundays intended route, from campsite on to Nisbet on to Morebattle then in to Jedburgh and back to Ancrum. The ride is approximately 23 miles.

The campsite is quiet and basic with a shower/toilet block, and a good grassy field.

The Cross Keys pub in Ancrum is listed in the good pub guide and sells real ale and excellent food.

Drive time from Manchester three and half to four hour's start time both days approximately 10am.

Hope to see you there.

September 20^th - Bleaklow Bogtrot - Keith Williams

Start: Public CP, SE side of the B6105 on the S side of Torside reservoir Grid Ref SK 067 983. I suggest that we park, if possible, in the bay at the rear LHS.

Time: 09.45 for a prompt departure at 10.00hrs.

Route: Clough Edge above Torside Clough, Wain Stones, Bleaklow Stones, GRN SK125 980. From here down Far Black Clough to the Trans-Pennine Trail and back to the CP. Anyone looking for a longer trip could extend this over Swain's Head then either Far Small Clough or Round Hill before dropping down to the T-P Trail and CP.

Length: Short route - 6hrs/10.5 miles + 1600 feet ascent.

Map: The Dark Peak 1:25K

July Newsletter Index.

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