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Karabiner Mountaineering Club

January 2010 Forthcoming Meets


All note the following small print when taking part in meets :-

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."


January 24th - Pot Scar Climbing - Duncan Lee

This lovely little Yorkshire crag faces south west overlooking the hamlet of Feizor (GR SD795678) and receives lots of sun and dries quickly. I won't try to claim that it is sheltered because there were enough of you there last year to pull me up on that fact but everyone who turned up will certainly vouch for the quality and quantity of the home-made cakes provided by the cafe in Feizor. I plan to be at the crag between 10.30 and 11am to allow the morning sun to take the chill off the rock. Routes range from V.Diff to E3 so there is something for almost everyone. The majority of the two and three star routes are in the Severe to E1 range.

In the unlikely event of bad weather, well you have to be optimistic, the day will start and finish in the cafe with a walk around some of the local outcrops in between the tea and cakes.

Please try and car share because the parking in the hamlet is limited.


January 30th/31st - Mill Cottage - Brian Street/Andrew Croughton

As I write this (23/12) it is absolutely perfect conditions outside with a cloudless blue sky, lots of snow and cold and that is just in lowlands of Cheshire! Occasionally, just occasionally, you get such winter days in Scotland and these make up for all the claggy and rained out expeditions to the North! Have I whetted your appetite or put you off?

There are just eight spaces available for this meet and at the time of writing five of these have already been taken up! Cost is a measly £7/night. As always, cash (or cheque) in the claw secures the place!

Here are some directions and facts about Mill Cottage as provided by my co-meet leader Andrew?

Mill Cottage is 0.25 miles to the North West of Feshiebridge off the B970. Follow the old A9 to Kincraig, between Kingussie & Aviemore, take the side road to Kincraig (turn east), over bridge & past the Loch Insh Watersports Centre. Left at the T-junction & left into the Forestry Commission car park, taking the left fork onto an unpaved track above the car park. Turn down the right fork after passing below the pylon line, here you will find the hut (approximately 300 yards from the main road). Grid reference NH844047, OS sheet 35 - Kingussie. SMC hut guide - "The hut has 8 bunks & a six berth alpine platform, all with mattresses; full cooking & dining facilities are supplied, all electric. Shower, toilets, drying room, multi-fuel stove in lounge with firewood & coal."


February 7th - Lancashire Walk - Dave Shotton

This is a pleasant winter walk taking in some classic Lancashire moorland on what is effectively a high-level circuit of Belmont Reservoir, taking in Great Hill, Winter Hill and (optionally) Darwen Hill.

Start point: Crookfield Road car park (just off A675 Belmont Road) at grid reference SD665191 to the north of Belmont village and reservoir. The car park is fairly large and is unlikely to be excessively busy at this time of year.

Start time: Meet at 09:30 for a 09:45 start.

Map: OS Explorer 287 (West Pennine Moors); alternatively Landrangers 103 (Blackburn & Burnley) and 109 (Manchester).

Distance: 9-13 miles depending on route taken. Bring a headtorch just in case.

Route: From the car park, a scenic detour via the ruins of Hollinshead Hall leads upwards to the top of Great Hill. From there, a walk along Redmonds Edge and Spitlers Edge (much of the way on stone flags) crosses the road at Hordern Stoops to reach the summit of Winter Hill and its forest of TV and telecommunications antennae. From there the way descends to Belmont village (pub stop if desired).

From Belmont, the shorter variation of the walk leads more directly back to the car park along part of the Witton Weavers Way above the Belmont Reservoir. However, weather and inclination permitting, we can press on up and across Darwen Moor (possibly over White Hill) to reach Darwen Tower (the Jubilee Tower on Darwen Hill, giving great views to the north) before returning home.


February 13th/14th - Ty Powdwr Working Meet - James Hoyle

As normal a wide range of activities need to be done at the hut including some work on the track and the walls leading to the hut as well as a good clean and wash inside. Other jobs will be decided upon based on the weather that weekend and the numbers who arrive. Lunch will be provided and hopefully it will not be quite as tiring as the last working party, leaving people to have plenty of fun on the Sunday. Hope to see plenty of you there.


February 14th/21st - Norway Ice Climbing and Skiing - Craig Marsden

Heroes of Telelemark: Part 4 - Return to Rjukan

You've seen the pictures, read the meet reports, now live the experience.

Yes, we're off to Norway for the fourth successive year; heading for Rjukan in the Telemark region. To quote the guidebook:

"Imagine a place with more than 150 waterfalls, almost all of which have easy access and a stable climate that guarantees long periods of cold weather. Add a local population that welcomes visiting ice climbers, a dramatic World War II history and great skiing on offer for 'rest days' and this is not just a place to dream about - it is Rjukan."

(Ice Climbing in Rjukan Norway - Rockfax 2005)

Rjukan has something for everyone; a valley full of ice climbs, the compactbut attractive Gaustablikk downhill ski centre and the almost limitless cross-country skiing opportunities of the vast Hardangervidda plateau.

The ice climbing goes from 1 to 17 pitches; with most in the 1-4 pitch range. Walk-ins range 0 to 60 minutes, but the majority are less than 30 minutes. There's water ice (WI) up to WI7 and mixed climbing up to M10, but the bulk is in the WI2 to WI5 range. For comparison WI3 is approximately Scottish Grade IV.

Gaustablikk ski centre has 12 lifts, 28 downhill runs (longest 3.5km); 635m vertical drop, 80km x-country tracks, ski school and ski hire.

This year we have booked a 10 person cabin up at the Gaustablikk ski centre (about 10 minutes drive up from the valley) with its fine views of the Gaustatoppen and the Hardangervidda. So far we have four Marsdens and two Maddisons and it would be good to fill the other four spaces. If more people are interested we can advise on other options.

Ryanair flies from Liverpool to Oslo Torp. From there it is a 2.5-3 hour drive northwest to Rjukan. The Marsden/Maddison party flies out at 18:35 on Sunday 14th February and back at 2:50 on Sunday 21st February. We recommend booking now before prices rise.

If you plan to come, please let Craig Marsden or Colin Maddison know as soon as possible, so we can coordinate and advise on accommodation and hire cars.

For previous meet reports, see the September 2009 and January 2009 Newsletters.

For more about the area and climbing see the Rjukan pages of: VisitNorway.com and Rockfax....

...or just rent a copy of 'Heroes of Telemark' to see Kirk Douglas yomping around the area as a Norwegian saboteur!

For further information speak to Craig or Colin.


February 20th/21st - Blackrock Cottage - Sean Kelly

Black Rock Cottage can be found on the left of the A82, before you enter into Glencoe fully, this is the cottage that so many people shoot with the Buchaille Etive Mor in the background. You can park across from it. It's on a small single track road that ends at the Glencoe Ski Center www.glencoemountain.co.uk which has a photo of the hut + a web cam if you want to check the snow before you head up that way.

Accommodation: 10 beds with mattresses and some blankets. No camping is allowed near the cottage. Facilities: Electric lighting and cooking; microwave oven; utensils provided; coal fire; WC

Cost: 10 places @ £6pn. Can you please send cheques payable to the Karabiner MC to the Hon Sec direct (Al Metelko) and please let me know when you have done this so I can collate numbers. (8 spaces left!)

The hut is situated in a brilliant area for Winter walking, Ice-climbing or Skiing. Most importantly, there is a pub close by (the Kingshouse Hotel). For those that don't know the area I can provide ample details of just what is possible and do-able over the weekend. I shall be up in the area for the preceeding week (staying at the Alex Mac hut), and shall be at Blackrock Cottage sometime after 4 on the Friday afternoon for early arrivals.

I am hoping to tackle Ben Lui Central Gully over the weekend and the little Munro behind, having been turned back twice by appalling weather and impossible river-crossing conditions last winter. As I type this I note very heavy snow accumulations across the Highlands!


February 28th - Local Biking Meet - Katie Horgan

This is really local! Meet at the Forestry Commission Hurst Farm Offices, Copper Lane, Stand, Whitefield M45 7TQ at 10am. It'll be a day of exploring the Irwell Valley from Ringley (including a pub stop) down to Forest Bank in Salford. Real mix of tracks with some wide, newly laid tracks, steps and muddy descents and some single track as well. The route should be around 8 miles but it can be exended and with the pub as well, we'll be out for around 4 hours.


March 6th/7th - Buttermere (FRCC Joint Meet) - Chris Thickett

The joint meet with the Fell and Rock CC will be held at the Birkness Hut on the weekend of the 6/7 March 2010.

Birkness (GR NY186160) is situated in the Buttermere valley along the lake and about a mile from the village where there are two good pubs. Access via Keswick then take your pick of the Newlands, Honister or Whinlatter Passes.

It will be most likely be a walking weekend (excellent area) but if the weather is suitable then low-level crags such as Shepherds in Borrowdale are not far away. I may organise an 'official' walk on the Saturday, hoping to attract members from both clubs.

Nine male and six female places will be booked for KMC members and guests at the hut at a cost of £5 per night. Pay me during the weekend. Sign the book on arrival. Please book your place in advance direct with me as per details in the handbook - by the Thursday as I will be travelling up on Friday morning.

Hope to see you there, Chris Thickett.


March 14th - Stanage/Burbage Walk - Iain McCallum

Route: Bamford - Long Causeway - Stanage Edge - Higger Tor - Carl Wark - Burbage - Longshaw Lodge - Grindleford Station - Leadmill Bridge - Bamford.

Map: Explorer OL1 & OL24 Dark Peak Area & White Peak Areas.

Meet at 9.30am for a 9.45am start - Park in the dead end road off the A6013 just south of Bamford Station (SK206825). Park at Bamford Station if you prefer.

A good tramp around the eastern side of the Peak District on good paths and tracks.

Distance; About 12 miles. The walk can be modified to suit the conditions.


March 21st - Muddy March Hare - Katie Horgan

Darcy Lever Cricket Club, Hacken Lane, Bolton BL3 1SD.

Every year a short but very muddy trail race is held at Moses Gate Country Park in Bolton. A KMC member, Katie Horgan, is the race organiser and every year she asks for volunteers from the Club to help marshall, give out numbers and eat up left over cake! This isn't an official KMC meet - that's on Saturday at Windgather - but if you can spare a few hours on Sunday morning from 8:30-12:30, it would be very welcome. Of course, you could always do the run... visit www.muddymarchhare.co.uk!

Anyone willing or able to help, please give Katie a call.


March 20th/27th - Naismith Hut (Scottish week long meet) - Andrew Croughton

This year I have booked the Naismith Hut from the SMC.

This is the latest hut for the SMC and is situated in Elphin in the far North-West of Scotland. (NC2160711830), just North of Ullapool. Surrounded by fantastic hills and spectacular views, this is one of the most picturesque parts of Scotland.

Suilven is prominent from the hut and other hills of interest are Ben Mor Coigach, Stac Pollaidh, Cul Beag, Cul Mor and Quinag. Not all Munro's but all splendid hills in their own right.

We have six places reserved @ £8ppn strictly on a first come, first served basis. Contact myself to reserve your place and make travel arrangements.

If the weather is fair there are fantastic walks to be had, if extremely cold some very remote and rarely tackled ice routes to be had, and in the event of a freak heat wave some great rock routes to be put up on Cul Mor's 900 foot cliffs, so something for everyone.

For more information please feel free to contact me:


July 24th/August 7th - Alpine Meet - the Mont Blanc Massif - Duncan Lee & Colin Maddison

I'm sure I don't have to say anything about this stunning range in order to sell this meet so all I will say is that the planned campsite is "Camping des Montets" (www.camping-montets.com) over the Col de Montets from the hustle and bustle of the Chamonix valley. Anyone who has climbed on the Vallorcine slabs has walked past the campsite and will know that the nearest crag is well worth a visit despite being a bit busy at times. The peaks at the northern end of the Aiguilles Rouges are also accessed from here as are several newly developed multi pitch routes on some of the crags in the side valleys. There is also lots of fine walking in the vacinity of the campsite as well as mountain biking, bouldering and horse riding. Check out www.vallorcine.com for more details.

If all that is not enough it's only 20 minutes in the car, or a couple of stops on the train, to the Chamonix valley and all that it has to offer.

The campsite only has 50 pitches for tents so it may be a good idea to pre book spots nearer the time. Otherwise there is a larger site down the valley towards the Swiss border and the delights of the fine crags at Barberine.

Feel free to contact either of us if you want to pick our brains about the climbing and mountaineering in the area or just to let us know that you fancy coming along.


January Newsletter Index.


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