A Few Days in Knoydart - Phil Ramsbottom
I woke up at 6 and unzipped the tent door to see a blanket of cloud
hanging around 1500 feet. After a night of frequent heavy showers I
wasn't surprised so I snuggled back down and started to go through
the previous day in my mind.
I had driven up from Manchester in rain that got gradually heavier
until it was absolutely torrential - the plan had been to walk in to
Knoydart and camp at the West end of Loch Quoich, but as I was
driving along the side of the Loch it was obvious from the swollen
state of the burns that this was never going to happen. Eventually
the road ended at Kinloch Hourn and I still didn't have a plan, it
had finally stopped raining but I couldn't see anywhere to camp.
[there's a sign saying "no camping before Barrisdale, 7mi", Ed].
Hastily I decided to walk the three hours to Barrisdale. With
hindsight my reasoning was probably that I had a chance of a dry bed
in the bothy there, as it turned out when I finally arrived it wasn't
raining so I decided to camp.
Back to the present; as I was lying in my sleeping bag; I was
considering walking over to Inverie for a drink but beyond that I
still had not come up with any other way to pass a wet few days in
Barrisdale. I was considering my alternatives as I unzipped the tent
door again, only to do a double take - the low cloud had lifted to
reveal the top of Luinne Bheinn covered in new white snow backed by a
clear blue sky all lit up by clear May sunshine.
I was out of my sleeping bag in minutes, all round I could see clear
hills, it was still cool as the sun had not reached me but it was
already obvious that this was just a matter of time. I walked a few
yards to be clear of some of the Barrisdale buildings to be rewarded
with a view across the salt flats, a herd of deer were calmly grazing
on the short grass, the calm of Loch Hourn was only broken by the
wake of a small boat, then Beinn Sgritheall rose majestically on the
far side.
After a quick breakfast I set of across the salt flats for Ladhar
Bheinn. I had planned a clockwise circuit of the magnificent Coire
Dhorrcail, which gave a wonderful day the highlight of which was the
hour I spent alone on the summit taking in the views out to Rhum and
Skye. I was a bit apprehensive about the descent over Stob a Choire
Odhair in the new snow but I took my time and was soon down below the
snow line enjoying yet another rest in the sunshine.
An hour later I was sitting outside my tent with the kettle on, the
sun was still shining and I was completely happy. After drinking my
tea and reading a few pages of my book I decided to have a walk back
along the track. The previous night the failing light and the concern
about where to camp had forced me to press on so I was interested to
explore the immediate area. I spent a couple of hours taking photos
and wondering what it must be like to live in such a remote place
when the wind is howling and the rain is driving past. Up above,
Ladhar Bheinn was looking wonderful in the sunlight, was I really on
the summit only 4 hours ago?
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Beinn Sgritheall across Loch Hourn on Day 1
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Beinn Sgritheall (again) from approach to NE ridge of Stob a
Chearcaill (day 1).
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That night I slept the sleep of the totally knackered and woke much
fresher than the previous day, it was another stunner with sunshine
from sunrise to sunset. I was a bit boring with my choice of walk but
my excuse was that this was my first visit to Knoydart and the
obvious aim for the day was to get high and stay up there as long as
possible. I followed the excellent path from Barrisdale up to Mam
Unndalain, climbing steadily in and out of the sunshine, once there I
turned right and found a way through the bumpy hillside to the top of
Luinne Bheinn, today the route finding was simple, in mist? After a
nice long sit on the top watching Barrisdale come to life below I
followed the rough ridge round to Meall Buidhe where I sat looking
down towards Loch Nevis, Inverie and out to Rhum, what a fantastic
sight. The previous day I had noticed what looked like a good way off
the summit into the rough Choire Odhair, and like everything in those
few days it worked out perfectly.
I first followed the North ridge for about 400 metres, then turned
North East along a rounded ridge which took me down to the corrie -
ideally it would be possible to maintain height and work round to
some small lochans but I had to climb up slightly before finding a
rising line which took me round to Mam Barrisdale - from there the
track back to my tent was very easy.
Back at the campsite a few more people had arrived bringing an up to
date weather forecast, this promised another two days of the
fantastic weather which was not quite enough for my plan to get to
the West end of Loch Quoich so the next morning I decided to move on
and walk back to Kinloch Hourn.
The walk back was an absolute delight despite my heavy rucksack. The
path does rise and fall many times [it's the last hill above Skiary
that's the killer, Ed] but I was in the sunshine, walking along next
to a beautiful loch and as it was still early I felt as if I had this
wonderful area to myself.
Meall Buidhe and Coire Odhair from Luinne Bheinn (day 2)
I arrived at Kinloch Hourn around 11.00, with most of the day in
front of me so I decided to have a look at Sgurr a' Mhaoraidh. I do
confess that I was quite indifferent about this hill for some reason,
but as soon as I stepped off the road I realised that this was
something special. The reason for this was the path which is so well
maintained that it makes the ascent very easy, cleverly winding in
and out of bumps and rises, constantly finding the easiest line. The
weather stayed sunny but there was now a cool East wind blowing,
which made me reach for my jacket for the first time. This was a
minor inconvenience as the wind seemed to have totally cleared the
air of any traces of mist and left me with views from Ben Nevis to
Torridon. As a descent I opted for the ridge leading over Am Bathaich
- this was because of the interesting looking path which zigzags down
to the Northern arm of Loch Quoich, and what a path it turned out to
be - who were the heroes that must have laboured to construct it in
such a place?
I got back to my car just as the last rays of the sun touched the
glen, from then on it soon became very cold very quickly so I put up
my tent and settled down for an early night in my warm sleeping bag.
The next morning I crawled out of my tent to be greeted by an icy
cold blast of the East wind, I looked enviously across Loch Quoich to
see the sun shining on Sgurr Mor whilst I shivered and wrapped my
hands around my tea mug.
After driving a short distance along the road I was warm again as I
laced up my boots at the start of the path leading to Gleouraich,
again the path proved to be superb; zig zagging up to a fine ridge
overlooking Loch Quoich with views back to the West where I could see
the pointed Sgurr na Ciche. The swollen burns of 4 days ago were now
mere trickles, stretches of the old road along Loch Quoich (flooded
when the Loch was dammed) were clearly visible. From the summit I
followed the ridge along to Spidean Mialach where my stomach and the
view demanded at least an hour's inactivity. The way off the summit
was not quite so obvious as some of the other paths that I had been
on but I soon picked up a good line which led back across the mouth
of a big South facing corrie before joining a well defined path. All
too soon I was back on the road with a short stroll back to my car.
I had waited over seven years to get to Knoydart, partly because of
external events but more recently I had set my heart on enjoying the
area in a spell of decent weather, given the areas reputation for
rainfall I did not really expect complete success. For once I was
lucky, I was given four completely perfect days, and that is
something that I will remember for the rest of my life.
Just a thought - for now...
Is anyone interested in a meet in Knoydart?
As a rough suggestion the Barrisdale Estate have a couple of cottages
which can be hired and one of the locals at Kinloch Hourn will
transport parties in on his boat which would save 7 miles each way
and enable plenty of provisions to be carried.
I would certainly be interested in going back, if enough people get
in touch I am prepared to make some serious enquiries. [I'll be back
in there at the end of May, Ed]
My contact details are in the handbook.
March Newsletter Index.
Copyright © 2010 Karabiner Mountaineering Club
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