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Karabiner Mountaineering Club

March 2010 Forthcoming Meets


All note the following small print when taking part in meets :-

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."


March 14th - Stanage/Burbage Walk - Iain McCallum

Route: Bamford - Long Causeway - Stanage Edge - Higger Tor - Carl Wark - Burbage - Longshaw Lodge - Grindleford Station - Leadmill Bridge - Bamford.

Map: Explorer OL1 & OL24 Dark Peak Area & White Peak Areas.

Meet at 9.30am for a 9.45am start - Park in the dead end road off the A6013 just south of Bamford Station (SK206825). Park at Bamford Station if you prefer.

A good tramp around the eastern side of the Peak District on good paths and tracks.

Distance: About 12 miles. The walk can be modified to suit the conditions.


March 20th - Windgather (Aspirant's meet) - The Committee

Contact: Heather Brooke & Mark Garrod.

As part of the club's drive to get new members the committee will be holding a climbing and walking meet based at Windgather.

We are asking for help from as many club members as possible to either help out or to meet and greet new members.

The plan is for committee members to get there from 10.30am to set things up and any 'helpful' members arriving to climb / help anytime after that.


March 21st - Muddy March Hare - Katie Horgan

Muddy March Hare

Darcy Lever Cricket Club, Hacken Lane, Bolton BL3 1SD.

Every year a short but very muddy trail race is held at Moses Gate Country Park in Bolton. KMC member, Katie Horgan is the race organiser and every year she asks for volunteers from the club to help marshall, give out numbers and eat up left over cake! This isn't an official club meet - that's on Saturday at Windgather - but if you can spare a few hours on Sunday morning from 8:30-12:30, it would be very welcome. Of course, you could always do the run...visit www.muddymarchhare.co.uk!

Anyone willing or able to help, please call Katie, thank you.


March 20th/27th - Naismith Hut (Scottish week long meet) - Andrew Croughton

This year I have booked the Naismith Hut from the SMC.

This is the latest hut for the SMC and is situated in Elphin in the far North-West of Scotland. (NC 21607 11830), just North of Ullapool. Surrounded by fantastic hills and spectacular views, this is one of the most picturesque parts of Scotland.

Suilven is prominent from the hut and other hills of interest are Ben Mor Coigach, Stac Pollaidh, Cul Beag, Cul Mor and Quinag. Not all Munro's but all splendid hills in their own right.

We have six places reserved @ £8ppn strictly on a first come, first served basis. Contact myself to reserve your place and make travel arrangements.

If the weather is fair there are fantastic walks to be had, if extremely cold some very remote and rarely tackled ice routes to be had, and in the event of a freak heat wave some great rock routes to be put up on Cul Mor's 900 foot cliffs, so something for everyone.

For more information please feel free to contact me.


March 28th - Yorkshire Bouldering - Dan O'Brien

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges. The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you.

Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.

Hope to see a good turn-out again this year. The weather has been ordered.


April 2nd/5th - Ty Powdwr Easter - The KMC

No special details for this, but normally a number of KMC members will turn up at the hut over the weekend.


April 11th - Llantysilio Mountain Traverse - Jim Gregson

Best Map: OS Explorer 256

By the time this date arrives I will only be back home for a few days from a month in the white winter wilds of Norway and looking forward to some greenery, so try joining me to spring into Spring on the hills NW of Llangollen for a fine walk.

Meeting Point (car park and start): Grid Ref SJ198434. This is the slightly hidden car park for Horseshoe Falls, easily reached by leaving Wrexham bypass onto A539 at Ruabon. Continue to Llangollen, straight on past station on A542 for 2km, take first L onto minor road and follow for 3/4km to a fork. If you go L there is an entry to the carpark amongst trees. If you go R then in less than 100m there is a more obvious entry.

Meet 0915 for prompt start at 0930. (Driving time from Sale is approx. 1hr 15mins- adjust for own start location - take M56/Chester bypass/Wrexham bypass to Ruabon).

Walk Route

From car park, NNE up and over lovely little hill of Coed Hyrddyn till you meet fence above Abbey Grange Hotel - nice bird's-eye views of Valle Crucis Abbey. Cut back sharp R at fence and follow to rejoin road A542 by phone box. N up road, climbing to Britannia Inn. Just past pub enter field L, then head NW between plantations. Ignore right of way line on map (not obvious on ground), cross stream near L side plantation then climb on intermittent tracks towards some old quarry tips - may be a bit of bracken-bashing. Beyond tips contour more to W to rejoin A542 just before biggest bends of Horseshoe Pass at GR SJ186467. Cross road, drop into head of Oernant cwm then climb out NE just above trees to rejoin road. Tracks lead off vaguely NE then N to go over end of moor to Ponderosa Café - optional tea and toilet stop (motor cycle leathers not compulsory).

Leave Ponderosa GR SJ194482 to climb up onto ridge of Moel y Faen, then SW to Moel y Gamelin, W to Moel y Gaer (hill fort) and so up to trig point at Moel Morfydd. (All this section forms Llantysilio Mountain). Drop off Morfydd to W for only 400m then turn sharp L, head SE through heather, all obvious track and work into grass saddle at GR SJ164451. Turn L, go due E for just over 1km, join minor tarmac road, which is followed to a hairpin bend. Exactly at the apex, take track by stream N, then R and L onto farm track. By corner of wood find winding path up to farm at GR SJ175454 (long Welsh name). Turn R then head E past pheasant-rearing area then surfaced track downhill to hamlet of Rhewl. Just past buildings climb into field on L on right of way track to Llandynan. Follow minor road for 1km to church on R at GR SJ195436. Take track by church to drop down to the Dee, proceed to Horseshoe Falls (optional swim!) then to rear of hotel and back up to car park to finish.

Very varied, with some intricate route finding, hence extra info as above. Distance: only 16 or 17km but a fair bit of up and down. NO DOGS please - sensitive Welsh area. I hope some of you will be tempted to try it.


April 18th - Foredale Quarry - Vicky Alderton

GR: SD799707.

Despite this being a quarry, the large, flat and open aspect of the quarry gives superb views across to Penyghent. In general the rock is a compact limestone (but still bring a helmet as there's loose rock above) giving good sport climbing across the grades. To find out more about the crag go to the Leeds Wall Website where you can download the latest guide. Don't look in the Yorkshire limestone guide to get your info as this is now very out of date. The quarry now offers routes ranging from 3 - 7a.

From Helwith Bridge, just off the Settle to Horton Road, take the road that goes to Foredale Cottages, just after the pub. Park in the large parking area (off the sharp left turn) just after leaving the active quarry road, but before the farm buildings. I'll be there at 11am ish. Otherwise walk up the road, past the farm and follow the BMC signs to get to the quarry [Don't stray. Ed.]. Hope to see you there.


April 25th - President's Hotpot - El Presidente

Contact: Mark Garrod, or Heather Brooke

"Early" warning!!!

THE GLOBE INN in Glossop will once again be the venue for this year's President's Hotpot and Slide show competition.

The usual Hotpot and apple pie with custard will be available cost of £6 a head. Room will be available from 6pm with food served at 7pm.

Just a reminder that all food will be Vegetarian.

For anyone who didn't come last year, the Globe is situated on the main road through Glossop. Full address is The Globe Inn, 144 High St West, Glossop, Derbyshire SK13 8HJ. Tel: 01457 852417. For more information about the venue visit their website at www.globemusic.org.

If people want to book their places, please contact Heather by email or by phone.


Day's Events

Climbing meet: Leader - Heather Brooke

The climbing meet will be at Bamford Edge, one of my favourite crags in the Peak. I will be at the Salmon Slab area from 10.30am where you will find routes like Brown's Crack (HS 4b), Quien Sabe? (VS 4c) and Bilberry Crack (VS 5a).

Sunday Walk: Leader - Mark Garrod

Given the Hotpot venue opens at 6pm and the meal is 7pm, I am planning a walk that will start at 1pm, and finish in time to allow a quick change of kit in/near the car, before heading off straight to the Hotpot. You can, of course, join the walk even if you can't make the Hotpot. Don't expect the normal KMC lunch halt at 1.05pm - maybe bring tea and cakes instead?

We will meet and park just off the A628 after Hollingworth, going left onto Arnfield Lane after the reservoir, heading up toward Arnfield. Park on the top of the lane at grid ref. SK018977, shortly after the sharp left turn at the minor T junction. Please share cars where possible.

The walk will head round Hollingworthall Moor, over Turf Pits toward Carrbrook, then up to the moors via cloughs toward Wimberry. Note that weather permitting we will take a rather unique route on this section. At the top, we head back down from near Wilderness gully, to Arnfield. Something around 18km - that's the plan, anyway. See you there.


May 1st/3rd - Wasdale (Brackenclose) - Heather Brooke

Everyone is invited to come to Brackenclose in Wasdale for the May Bank holiday. 15 places have been booked - 9 male and 6 female at a cost of £5 per person per night @ the FRCC hut situated at the head of the lake behind the National Trust campsite.

Wasdale is on Cumbria's west coast and has the most dramatic and diverse scenery in the whole of Cumbria. With some of the England's highest mountains, Scafell Pike, Scafell and Great Gable, and some of the most amazing traditional climbing locations in the Lakes.

It would be wonderful to see as many members there as possible be they walkers, climbers or whatever. Please try to organize lift shares as much as possible to reduce carbon emission etc.

Please let me know if you want to book your places.


May 9th - Walking Meet - Lorna Marsland

In an attempt to do something a bit different, I decided on a linear walk which gives the feel of a journey and can be undertaken by public transport completely or just for the return leg between Hope and Chinley.

Meet at 9.00 for 9.15 start at Chinley station. This is a bit earlier than usual but in order to try to accommodate train times from Manchester and the return times from Hope, it's probably the best compromise. There is car parking for 20 cars at the station for those who don't want to arrive by train, but since this is something of a green meet, car sharing is the preferred option, so please try to share.

The route will take us via Chinley Churn and Monks Meadow across the A624 and onto Brown Knoll via South Head. From there the route descends to Jacob's ladder, and follows the contours of Kinder via Pym Chair and around Plateau to Grindslow Knoll descending to Edale with the possibility of refreshments. My intention at this point is to cross the Edale valley to Hope via Hollins Cross, skirt the contours of Lose Hill descending to Hope station. However, this can be shortened to suit the weather and fitness of the party. The distance is approximately 13 miles.

If you are intending to travel by train, the 8.00am from Piccadilly will get you to Chinley for 8.30am. The next train, leaving at 8.30ish, should be avoided as this is in fact a bus and will take 3 times as long. On the return journey, there are trains for Manchester leaving Hope at 16.40 and 17.39 arriving at Chinley 16 minutes later and in Manchester at 17.26 or 18.26. I will be testing people on the timetable during the course of the day!

This is a lovely walk offering good views and a varied landscape, weather permitting, and it would be good to see as many people as possible. For further information or questions please contact me by email.


May 14th/16th - Ty Powdr - Andy Grantham

Everyone is invited to come to the hut for a weekend of climbing, scrambling, walking or whatever.

It would be great to see as many there as possible. New members and others considering joining are particularly welcome. I shall be there from Friday evening at around 8.00pm.

If you want any further information or want to discuss arrangements/car sharing, etc., please get in touch.

See you there.


May 23rd - Stanage - Ann Sanderson

We are meeting at the popular end of Stanage from 10.30am on the 23rd May ...whatever the weather...

For those who have never been:

Stanage is the most famous and frequently climbed area in the UK. You won't find long multi pitch runs but Stanage makes up for this in good quality rock. There is everything from moderate scrambles to rarely climbed masterpieces. Stanage has miles of south facing, quick drying rock.

Stanage popular end is the highest and most continuous section of Stanage Edge and it has some of the longest routes on natural grit (up to 23m). There are a huge range of climbs, classics including, Heaven Crack (VD), Hollybush Crack (VD), Robin Hood Right-hand Buttress Direct (HS), Crack and Corner (HVD). Congo Corner (HVS 5b), The Scoop (HVS 5a), Hargreaves Original Route (VS 4c). Good thugging routes include Flying Buttress Direct (HVS 5b), Tippler (E1 5b) and Dangler (E2 5c).

Stanage Edge lies alongside a minor road which runs from Eccleshall in Sheffield via Ringinglow to Hathersage. There is free parking, but at weekends this quickly fills up so best to get there early.

Note: if it's absolutely pouring down and it looks like it's going to stay that way we will probably assemble at Stanage but then go off for a walk around 11 o clock.

Hopefully see you there


March Newsletter Index.


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