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May 2010 Forthcoming Meets
All note the following small print when taking part in meets :-
"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death.
I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and
shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."
May 9th - Walking Meet - Lorna Marsland
In an attempt to do something a bit different, I decided on a linear
walk which gives the feel of a journey and can be undertaken by
public transport completely or just for the return leg between Hope
and Chinley.
Meet at 9.00 for 9.15 start at Chinley station. This is a bit
earlier than usual but in order to try to accommodate train times
from Manchester and the return times from Hope, it's probably the
best compromise. There is car parking for 20 cars at the station for
those who don't want to arrive by train, but since this is something
of a green meet, car sharing is the preferred option, so please try
to share.
The route will take us via Chinley Churn and Monks Meadow across the
A624 and onto Brown Knoll via South Head. From there the route
descends to Jacob's ladder, and follows the contours of Kinder via
Pym Chair and around Plateau to Grindslow Knoll descending to Edale
with the possibility of refreshments. My intention at this point is
to cross the Edale valley to Hope via Hollins Cross, skirt the
contours of Lose Hill descending to Hope station. However, this can
be shortened to suit the weather and fitness of the party. The
distance is approximately 13 miles.
If you are intending to travel by train, the 8.00am from Piccadilly
will get you to Chinley for 8.30am. The next train, leaving at
8.30ish, should be avoided as this is in fact a bus and will take 3
times as long. On the return journey, there are trains for
Manchester leaving Hope at 16.40 and 17.39 arriving at Chinley 16
minutes later and in Manchester at 17.26 or 18.26. I will be testing
people on the timetable during the course of the day!
This is a lovely walk offering good views and a varied landscape,
weather permitting, and it would be good to see as many people as
possible. For further information or questions please contact me by
email:
May 15th/16th - Ty Powdwr - Andrew Grantham
Everyone is invited to come to the hut for a weekend of climbing
scrambling walking or whatever.
It would be great to see as many there as possible. New members and
others considering joining are particularly welcome. I shall be there
from Friday evening at around 8.00pm.
If you want any further information or want to discuss
arrangements/car sharing etc please get in touch.
See you there.
May 23rd - Stanage - Ann Sanderson
We are meeting at the popular end of Stanage from 10.30am on the 23rd
May ...whatever the weather...
For those who have never been?
Stanage is the most famous and frequently climbed area in the UK. You
won't find long multi pitch runs but Stanage makes up for this in
good quality rock. There is everything from moderate scrambles to
rarely climbed masterpieces. Stanage has miles of south facing, quick
drying rock.
Stanage popular end is the highest and most continuous section of
Stanage Edge and it has some of the longest routes on natural grit
(up to 23m). There are a huge range of climbs, classics including,
Heaven Crack (VD), Hollybush Crack (VD), Robin Hood Right-hand
Buttress Direct (HS), Crack and Corner (HVD). Congo Corner (HVS 5b),
The Scoop (HVS 5a), Hargreaves Original Route (VS 4c). Good thugging
routes include Flying Buttress Direct (HVS 5b), Tippler (E1 5b) and
Dangler (E2 5c).
Stanage Edge lies alongside a minor road, which runs from Eccleshall
in Sheffield via Ringinglow to Hathersage. There is free parking, but
at weekends this quickly fills up so best to get there early.
Note: if it's absolutely pouring down and it looks like it's going to
stay that way we will probably assemble at Stanage but then go off
for a walk around 11 o clock.
Hopefully see you there.
May 29th/31st - Wye Valley - Trish Cranston
The Wye Valley is a lovely, very popular area situated between
Chepstow and Monmouth where the river Wye carves through
carboniferous limestone to create a fabulous, non-glaciated river
gorge. It is mostly an SSSI area with rare plants and some rare
trees, and a fair amount of bird life as I recall it from the walks I
have done there in past years.
I plan to visit the Lower Wye Valley on this trip. The easiest
campsite is at Beeches Farm, Miss Grace's lane, Tintern (north of
Tintern abbey), OS ref SO548006, tel (01291) 689257 [Access from the
S via a long track from Miss Grace's Lane, from the Woodcroft - St
Briavels Road, Ed.]. Close to Shorn Cliff climbing area, but no pub close
by, so bring some booze and some BBQable food. However, there are a
couple of pubs, one at Woodcroft and the other further north at St
Briavel's, serving food. Dogs are allowed on the campsite. There is a
shower available, with limited hot water at 20p a go, barbecues are
allowed (I plan to take a small one), and it's £5 per person per
night. I am planning to be there on Friday 28th night. I have
reserved 8 spaces so far.
There is climbing in several areas, both single and multi-pitch, and
of course walking sections of the Offa's Dyke path would be a nice
option. On the climbing front, the rock type is limestone, and trad
gear is required. The nearest, and the most personally recommended
climbing I have received, is at Shorn cliff, which is north west
facing, sheltered, and just a 25 min walk from the campsite. Routes
requiring trad gear (some pegs in situ, not to be relied on for
condition), varying length from 10-30 metres. Grades VS to E2, but
there are some at HS and a couple of Vdiffs [Try the Laughing
Cavaliers (***) area, Ed]. The other area nearby is Wintour's Leap,
two miles north of Chepstow, which has multi-pitch routes, grades
ranging from Diff to E5, a very extensive crag, routes average at
about 45 metres but can be as long as 90 to over 100m. Trad gear.
Wyndcliffe (south facing so sun drenched...[when clear of the trees,
Ed.]), 10 min walk in from the road, and offers routes ranging from
severe to E4, some sport climbing also [Ban y gor has more of this
and there are small crags in the forest, Ed.]. There is climbing at
Symond's Yat, further north, but I have yet to look at the guide on
this. I have been advised that the climbing is of poorer quality.
If you're interested, contact me by phone, or Email. Hope to see you
there!
June 6th - World's End, Llangollen - Chris Williams
World's End is a great place to get going on Clwyd limestone,
consisting of a series of tiered cliffs nestling in a beautiful
wooded valley. There is a good spread of grades from some classic low
grade lines up to mid and high grade pitches on good quality
limestone. UKClimbing has
details of how to get to World's End and where to park:
I plan to be around the Coltsfoot Crack Area from 10:30 onwards with
a view to working along the upper tier through out the day. In case
not so many of you have a guide book, I will bring a few photocopies
along, so no excuses!!!
June 12th/13th - Hut Working Party - James Hoyle
Hopefully the fine weather of the last few weeks will continue into
June and help make the summer working party a great success!
Remember that without your efforts the fantastic resource that is our
hut would not be available so I hope to see a good turnout. Full and
prospective members more than welcome and we can always find a
variety of jobs to suit any level of technical ability or effort
including:
- Further repairs to the track leading to Ty Powdwr
- A good spring clean of the hut
- Mattress covers to replace the holed ones (could anyone come down
with a sewing machine)
- A lock to replace in the door of Ty Fuse
- Possible replacement of the wood under the roof at far end of hut
which looks rotten
- Slates to replace on back wall of hut
- New hinge to go on door of electric cabinet
- New fire safety notices to replace those that have run in damp weather
- Painting of doors and woodwork
Free accommodation and lunch to all those who come down to help on
the Saturday and a full day out on the hills on the Sunday. As we
have no garden and the views are so nice Kasia and I shall also be
having a BBQ on Saturday night washed down with a few beers. Bring
your own pork chops if you want to join in and let's see if we can
burn less food than we managed last year! If you let me know you're
coming and want to join in with the cremation of animals I'll even
provide some bread and salad. What a bargain? How could you possibly
stay away?
June 19th/20th - Ravencrag Cottage, Langdale - Bob Kelly
Climbing, walking, running, cycling, eating, drinking - Ravencrag
Cottage, situated 100 metres behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel - at
the head of Great Langdale - is ideal for all of these activities.
Being a liberal kind of guy I don't mind which you do.
Ravencrag itself is immediately behind the house - you can climb,
come in for lunch and then go and climb again, it's that close.
The KMC has 24 places in the cottage for the weekend of 19th/20th
June at a cost of £9 per night. Full details of the cottage can be
found on the BRCC Web Site.
I will be there from 1700Hrs on the Friday to let people in.
With regards to parking, three cars can be parked in front of the
house. There are four passes for the National Trust car park next to
the Old Dungeon Ghyll on a first come - first served basis. In
addition the car park is free to National Trust car park if you are a
member.
Travel Directions:- From Ambleside take the A593 towards Coniston and
turn right at Skelwith Bridge onto the B5343. Continue along this
road through the villages of Elterwater and Chapel Stile, past the
New Dungeon Ghyll hotel, and one mile later turn right into the drive
leading to the Old Dungeon Ghyll hotel. Follow the drive to the right
of the hotel which leads up behind the hotel to Raven Crag.
Please let me know if you are coming.
June 27th - Calderdale Mountain-Bike Meet - Pete Hughes
Meet at 10.15 for 10.30 start at the car park in Heptonstall, signed off to the
left of the main road from Hebden Bridge (SD 98748 27664).
The ride will take in some of the most scenic bits of the Calder Valley and will be
suitable for riders of all abilities. Length and severity to be modified according to
weather conditions on the day! Bring a spare inner tube and some waterproofs, just in case.
July 3rd/4th - Yorkshire Wet & Dry weekend - Jo & Mark Furniss
Saturday - 'Exploratory' Canyoning Ingleton Falls (River Doe).
Meeting at Ingleton Falls car park about 10.30am (£4.50 ticket).
Walking 2km on paths upstream to Beezley falls then a wild and wet
descent back to Ingleton (water levels permitting). Tea & cake in
Inglesports cafe. Equipment needed: harness, abseil plate, helmet
and wetsuit or suitable clothes and footwear for full
immersion/swimming. We have some spare buoyancy aids.
We are camping at Dalesbridge campsite 6 miles from Ingleton near
Austwick by the A65. It's £3 per tent & 4.50 per person. Tel
01524251021, (booking may be needed).
Sunday - Climbing at Twistleton.
We hope to be at Twistleton Main Crag about 10.30am. The crag is a
limestone escarpment about 50ft high with all grades of trad routes
and terrific views - see Yorkshire Limestone guide. To find the crag
take Oddie's lane out of Ingleton, between the 2 rivers, following
this for 2.5 miles to Twistleton House Farm. Park here - honesty box
about £1.50 and sign in on a book. A path leads up to the crag in
5-10 minutes.
July 10th/11th - Ty Powdwr - Cloggy - Colin Maddison
Right, this is the meet you've been waiting for; God's own crag -
Cloggy; Clogwyn Du'r Arddu; The Black Cliff.
It's been said that, 'Cloggy is a cliff on which all climbs are
great'... Well, certainly, you'll find one of the finest collections
of mountain routes in these isles. Just the place to tune up for the
alpine meet.
The guidebook abounds with starred routes. Just a few personal
recommendations - Shrike E1 5c, Lithrig HVS 5a (enjoy the pendulum),
Curving Crack VS 4c, The Corner HVS 5a, The Boulder E1 5a, Longland's
Climb VS 4c, White Slab E1 5b, Great Slab VS 4c. For a pint, I'll
tell you the best way to do the lasso on White Slab.
I'll be at Ty Powdwr on Friday evening and aiming to be at the crag
by 11.00am on Saturday. The usual approach is via the tourist track
from Llanberis and the crag comes into full view as you crest the
rise beyond the Halfway House, then keep right along the miners track
past the old copper mines and continue along the path that contours
round below the crag. It should take you about an hour [more practise
for the Alps, Ed.].
My plan is to climb on Cloggy on the Saturday and another mountain
crag on the Sunday (yet to be decided), but, weather permitting,
those in full alpine training mode may fancy a bivi by Llyn Du'r
Arddu, to get in two days on Cloggy.
Anyone fancying a big day out might consider a route on Llechog,
followed by a route on Cloggy. Best approach is from Rydd Ddu. Gear
up at the top of Llechog, descend and climb back to your sacks. Then
over Snowdon. Gear up at the top of Cloggy. Descend and climb back up
to your sacks. Walk out.
The sun will, of course, be cracking the slabs... except on Cloggy,
because it's north facing, so only gets the sun in the early morning
and the evening (perhaps another reason for a bivi).
This is a mountain crag, so be prepared for all that entails -
multi-pitch routes, sometimes tricky route finding and it's share of
loose rock. But also be prepared for some truely great routes. Most
of the routes are VS and upwards, but there are some worth while
routes at lower grades on the Far West Buttress; although they are
still long mountaineering routes.
If the weather lets us down, then we have plenty more options from Ty
Powdwr.
Look forward to seeing you. Give me a call if you need any more
information.
July 24th/August 7th - Alpine Meet - the Mont Blanc Massif - Duncan Lee & Colin Maddison
I'm sure I don't have to say anything about this stunning range in
order to sell this meet so I will leave that to Colin, all I will say
is that the planned campsite is
"Camping des Montets"
over the Col de Montets from the
hustle and bustle of the Chamonix valley. Anyone who has climbed on
the Vallorcine slabs (routes from F4 - 6c and up to 4 pitches ) has
walked past the campsite and will know that the nearest crag is well
worth a visit despite being a bit busy at times. The peaks at the
northern end of the Aiguilles Rouges, such as Praz Torrent and Cornes
de Loriaz, are also accessed from here, as are several newly
developed multi-pitch routes on some of the crags in the side
valleys. There is also lots of fine walking in the vacinity of the
campsite as well as mountain biking, bouldering and horse riding.
Check out www.vallorcine.com
for more details.
If all that is not enough it's only 20 minutes in the car, or a
couple of stops on the train, to the Chamonix valley and all that it
has to offer.
The campsite has 50 pitches for tents and it is not possible to pre
book these, we tried. The owner gave the impression that if you turn
up in the early afternoon you would be very unlucky to find them
fully booked. Otherwise, there is a larger campsite down the valley
towards the Swiss border and the delights of the fine crags at
Barberine.
Okay, Duncan has tee'd me up for a few words about the Mont Blanc
Range. No fool that Lee. How do you sum up the Mecca of alpine
climbing in a paragraph or two! Well, let's quote my guidebook:
"There is no doubt that the Mont Blanc Range provides the alpinist
with some of the finest quality routes in Europe, whether it be along
the delicate snow crests, on rough granite or steep ice."
Mont Blanc Massif, Vol 1, Alpine Club, 1990.
There is something here for everyone. Some 4000 routes according to
my guide; and that's 20 years old! From classic introductions to
alpine mixed climbing such as the Cosmiques Ridge on the Aiguille du
Midi, to the great north wall of the Grandes Jorasses with its
magnificent Walker Spur. Major high level alpine rock routes like the
Gervasutti Pillar or the shorter modern rock climbs around the Envers
Hut.
Take the telepherique to bivi at the Plan de l'Aiguille and enjoy
classic rock routes in the Chamonix Aiguilles. Continue the ride to
the Midi telepherique station and access the whole of the Vallee
Blanche; tackle the impressive Grand Capucin, the classic north face
of the Tour Ronde or the shapely Dent to Geant. Take the train to
Montenvers and marvel at the West face of the Dru, before descending
the ladders to the Mer de Glace and heading into the heart of the
range. Or the Grande Montets telepherique will open up the Argentiere
Glacier to you and routes on the Verte, Droites, Les Courtes and much
more. Or, of course, you could tackle the walk-ins! [Your wallet
won't weigh much after a trip on the Midi, Ed.]
But that's just a tiny flavour. Take a look at the guide. The Alpine
Club Guides give a wide selection of routes throughout the massif,
but there are also a number of topo guides to the rock routes. To get
a good flavour of the range try and get hold of a copy of Gaston
Rebuffat's "The Mont Blanc Massif - The 100 Finest Routes".
But please remember this is a major alpine range, with all that means
in terms of altitude, objective dangers and unpredictable weather.
Competence on snow, ice, rock and glacier terrain are essential
depending on your choice of route.
Feel free to contact either of us if you want to pick our brains
about the climbing and mountaineering in the area or just to let us
know that you fancy coming along.
Duncan and Colin.
August 1st - Froggatt - Roger Dyke
Park at the National Trust's Haywood Pay&Display car park just off
the A625, 400m S of the Grouse Inn. Free if you put your NT
Membership card behind the windscreen. Or if you are early enough,
free off the A625 near the start of the track to Froggatt Edge at
SK255775.
Fifteen minutes gentle level walk to the crag. Or if it is absolutely
tipping down, 5 mins to the bar of the Grouse - and don't panic, the
crag dries quickly after a shower and indeed after heavy rain.
Just for once I'll have a mobile with me. Meet below Tody's Wall,
10.30 onward. Move to Allen's Slab later?
Something for everyone here - twenty routes at Severe and below, some
superb HS's, several days' climbing at VS and above: and classics at
all standards. Six of the top 50 routes in Eastern Grit are here.
Scene of several of my minor triumphs, of one or two exciting
moments, and a lot of just plain fun.
Plenty of trees to give shelter from the sun, and it's child- and
dog-friendly too.
Sample the well-protected delight of Sunset Crack HS 4b, or the
unprotected thrill of Sunset Slab HVS 4b. The juggy delight of the
steep Terrace Crack, another HS 4b. Or take a rest anywhere on the
classic VD, Heather Wall.
Entertain the crowd as you struggle to gain the slab of Tody's Wall
HVS 5a (guess why we're meeting there?) or test your nerve on Three
Pebble Slab - another classic HVS 5a.
Show off your jamming skills on the superb HVS 5a, Valkyrie - or if
your jamming is no better than mine, on Diamond Crack HS 4b.
To the right of Diamond Crack, Broken Crack VS 5a demands better
jamming or a good first-aid kit. Further right still Sickle Buttress
S 4a only needs one jam but does need confidence in friction on its
little ramp, and careful thought to leave the comfortable ledge at
the top of the ramp. It may only be Severe, but the route is far more
polished below the ramp than above it?
Lovely open climbing with delicate moves on Allen's Slab S4a: in
contrast, two athletic moves get you up Trapeze Direct HS 4c. Or
traverse right for Trapeze itself - the popular well-protected VD.
Toward the RH end of the Edge is "arguably the best line on the crag"
which our own Nat Allen and Bowdon Black dug out of the ferns in
1948: Green Gut HS 4a.
Further right, a good collection of strenuous high E numbers (more
Elastoplast) then a final classic - the delightful Chequers Buttress,
HVS 5a, which gets my vote as the best route on the crag. Pity I
always fall off the move onto the arête?
Now, before we go home, there are the Froggatt boulders?
August 14th/15th - Wild Wales - Midge & Michelle Harvie
This will be a camping meet somewhere near the Rhinogs. Dust off your
cossies because this will be another walk/swim spectacular but of a
distance that normal mortals can enjoy. Exact route not yet
determined nor have we found the perfect campsite yet. Swimming not
compulsory but it doesn't half add to the fun. Make a note in your
diaries, more details in the next newsletter.
May Newsletter Index.
Copyright © 2010 Karabiner Mountaineering Club
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