Evening Meets - Other
Burbage North
Wed 7th Jun, 2023
Attendees
Daniel Arrowsmith, Jess Bailey, Yvonne King, Rory Marsden, Fergal McCullough, Andy Stratford, Lewis Stonehouse
NORTHERN NEWS
MAN BREAKS LEG, SAVED BY PORK PIE!
“I’ve got to put you down, I’m about to pass out!” There is never a good time to hear these words from your belayer. However, the remaining three feet to the ground didn’t seem too problematic having already made an unplanned gravity assisted descent from the crux mantle of The Chant, HVS 5a, and Andy had already caught my fall. What was worrying was that Andy did look like he might pass out. Thanks to weight differential and fall dynamics Andy had been launched upwards as he arrested my fall, as expected. The collision between Andy’s leg and the underside corner of the very solid gritstone overlap was both unexpected and extremely painful. Faced with a medical emergency Andy deployed the Northern remedy, a pork pie, which worked wonders.
The Chant was our fourth route of the evening. Andy, Lewis and I had arrived early and worked through Triangle Buttress Arete, VD, Baseless, HVD, and Triangle Crack, HVD 4a to warm up.
Not ready to admit defeat I left my gear on The Chant and while Andy composed himself, I belayed Lewis on Cranberry Crack, VD. Cranberry Crack might be V Diff for those who have refined their jamming technique but is somewhat harder for those who are new to the dark arts as Lewis found out shortly before he too became airborne. Suitably revived by his pork pie Andy set about untangling the crag from our web of ropes by first finishing off Cranberry Crack with Lewis and the newly arrived Yvonne and then a very credible one-legged attempt at The Chant.
Jess and Fergal also arrived about that time and they quickly got stuck into Route 2, S 4a, and Route 3, VD 4a before progressing on to Triangle Buttress Arete, VD, and Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a. During the course of the evening Jess seemed to be conducting a group test on crack gloves, we will look forward to the write up of that!
Andy and Yvonne carried on to 20 Foot Crack, S 4b, Mutiny Crack, HS 4b, and Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a.
Having already ticked the trying hard box for the evening Lewis and I looked to restore some confidence. Lewis enjoyed leads of Steptoe, M, followed by …and Son, Diff, which were both dispatched with little drama. I led Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a, and then we finished on Monkey Corner, HVD.
Daniel was the last to join the party and quickly set about soloing everything in sight and was soon spotted on Triangle Buttress Arete, VD, and Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a, among others. Daniel was finally roped in to a party for an ascent of Wednesday Climb, HVS 5b. Other than Yvonne who made a successful ascent on second, I am not sure exactly who else attempted Wednesday Climb but there seemed to be a great deal of hilarity among those in the vicinity.
With the light fading and the odd midge starting to appear it was time to head for the cars and the drive home. Most of the group managed to get at least five routes in with some hitting double figures which once again proved why Burbage North is a great midweek venue. Thanks all for coming out and to Jo for scheduling and organising!
Until next time,
Rory.
Rory Marsden
Higgar Tor
Wed 3rd May, 2023
Andy Stratford, Brian Tarnowski, Daniel Arrowsmith and Gareth Williams were the lucky four who braved the rough grit of Higgar Tor. It was a beautiful sunny evening with a biting cold wind making it feel very cold in the shade. Numerous routes were climbed, including Paddock (VDiff), Greymalkin (S), Hectate (VDiff) and Piece of Cake (HVDiff). And of course the notorious jamming route The File (VS 4c). Andy followed Daniel up the route, the latter enjoyed his lead so much that he decided to climb it a second time - solo and without any undue difficulty (but how about putting your helmet on next time??!!). Andy and Daniel stayed a bit later and were making good progress up The Rat's Tail (VS 5a) when I left.
Gareth WilliamsBurbage Edge
Wed 22nd Jun, 2022
Burbage South – Wednesday 22nd June 2022
Attendees
Daniel Arrowsmith, Rob Clark, Caroline Gay, Rory Marsden, Fergal McCullough, Brian Tarnowski, Holly Warder, Gareth Williams
On Peak Rock describes Burbage South’s specialities as “Many appealing, some appalling, problems. One of the Peak’s seed beds for technical virtuosity… Home for the committed (in all three senses) enthusiasts, but never overcrowded.”
And so on a beautiful June evening the committed enthusiasts of KMC gathered to hone their skills. As one of the few who had climbed previously at Burbage South Rob suggested we start at the Drainpipe and from there the following ascents were recorded:
Holly & Caroline
Rombald’s Staircase, Mod, led by Caroline
Chimney Route, VD, led by Holly
Ladder Gully, Diff, led by Caroline
Rob, Rory, Gareth & Brian
Drainpipe, HS 4b, led by Rob
Rob & Brian
Gable Route, VS 4c, led by Rob
The Gutter, HVS 5b, led by Rob
Gareth & Rory
The Staircase, S 4a, led by Rory
No Zag, E1 5b, led by Gareth
Byne’s Crack, VS 4b, led by Rory
Tower Crack, HVS 5a, led by Gareth
Daniel & Fergal
Roof Route, VS 4c, led by Daniel
Byne’s Crack, VS 4b, led by Daniel
Unfortunately meet leader duties were poorly conducted and so the above list is only partially complete. Sorry. While there were no first ascents Caroline and Holly have officially defined the new climbing technique of “ooudgelling”.
After an evening of some excellent climbing we walked back across the moor left only to wonder what are the three senses of committed? Who are you calling crazy??
Committed
/kəˈmɪtɪd/
adjective
- pledged or bound to a certain course; dedicated
- in or denoting a long-term emotional relationship
Thanks to all who attended.
Rory MarsdenEvening Meet: New Mills Torrs
Wed 15th Sep, 2021
Prospective Members:
Holly Warder, Daniel Arrowsmith
Member:
Dave Wylie
It was a rather smaller, but no less enthusiastic, turnout for the antepenultimate outdoor evening meet of the year. Numbers were eroded partly due to at least one of the usual suspects being otherwise engaged on the Club's week-long trip to Skye.
Holly arrived first and, while waiting for others, only managed to avoid being recruited into a religious group by pointing out that the "Bible" that she was seen to be reading was actually a climbing guidebook. Same thing, really...
Dan turned up an hour or so later, having been so keen to get out that he initially went to next week's venue before realising he should be about 13 miles due south of there!
Dave got to the crag a few minutes after Dan, mumbling excuses about heavy traffic preventing him arriving sooner. Note to self: set off earlier in future.
With the team finally assembled, Dan tied in to the sharp end of the rope and did all the leading for the evening. His first route was "Cracked Corner" (S, 4a). Holly and Dave followed him up this, but the consensus was that the Rockfax grade (Hard Severe, 4b) was more appropriate - given the steepness of the route and the fact that all of Dan's gear flipped out as the rope was being taken in after he'd belayed at the top. An abseil descent was made from the in-situ maillon tied to the tree at the top.
Next, Dan led the classic HVS, 5a "Alcove Crack". This also seemed to be very steep and proved problematical for both seconds. Dave blamed his struggles on a lack of climbing for nearly two years, as his arms shrivelled away on the middle section of the route. Another abseil descent avoided any need to trespass into the garden of the property above the crag.
With the sunlight starting to fade, attention moved to the bolted (and floodlit!) sports routes on the pillars of the viaduct holding up Union Road. The guidebook suggests using a clip-stick to reach the first bolt. We didn't have one - but then Dan didn't need any such method of cheating! He led "The Price of Admission" (F6a+), up the arête of one pillar. Dave, then Holly, only managed to get about two thirds of the way up this when seconding. This meant that Dan had to do a final route, "The Thin End of the Hedge" (F6a), in order to thread the lower-off bolts and retrieve his gear.
A good, if short, evening's climbing. More fun to be had next week at Den Lane!
Dave WylieEvening Meet: Hobson Moor
Wed 8th Sep, 2021
Members:
Rory Marsden, Caro C, Steve Lopacki, Jim Symon, Dave Wylie
Prospective Members:
Alexandra Lancaster, Daniel Arrowsmith, Holly Warder, James Pike
A very warm evening at Hobson Moor saw a decent turnout from the KMC, with a good mix of existing and prospective members - including a new face in the form of Alex on her first time out with the club.
Most of the favourite routes were ticked, including: Pocket Wall, The Harp, Epitaph Corner, Foghorn Groove, Parker's Eliminate, Tighe's Arête, etc. Members who led routes then provided ropes from above and plenty of encouragement to those who were still getting used to outdoor climbing on proper rock, or whose ability to lead V-Diff seemed to have melted away in the heat...
People continued to climb until (and, indeed, after!) the light began to fade. The dreaded midges were also attempting to join the meet by this point, so most attendees headed off - some in the direction of a local watering hole for refreshments.
It was an excellent evening's climbing, enjoyed by everyone. Let's look forward to more of it next week, at New Mills Torrs.
Dave WylieEvening Meet: Alderman Rocks
Wed 1st Sep, 2021
Alderman Rocks 1st Sept 2021
Members: Dave Wylie, Jim Symon, Andy Stratford, Rory Marsden
Prospective Members: Holly Warder, Ed Courtnell, Daniel Arrowsmith
The sun broke through in the afternoon and the forecast hinted at a pleasant if chillier evening. In fact, it was just on the right side of chilly and a stiff breeze kept the midges away at this, one of the best views you can get on our midweek crag circuit. Four members of the Ruscac club were also recorded as present on the first occasion this season when we have crossed venues on a midweek.
Ed, on his first KMC Meet and first time at Alderman led Dave up Rib and Face (HVD 4a), The Great Gatsby (VS 4c) and F route (VD 3c).
With a variety of finishes on offer it is difficult to really take full notes of what we all did – often climbing pitches on the second tier that bore no relation to the parent route lower down so what follows is a bit of an approximation!
Jim and Andy, Great Slab Arete (S 3c) with a finish up an off-width chimney, followed by The Great Slab (VS 4c) with Jim unusually taking the slab on P1 and Andy jamming the overhanging crack on P2. This was followed by Andy leading up Great Slab Right (HVS 5a) then an upper pitch (the Face), for these two they were joined by late arrival Rory.
Meanwhile, Daniel and Holly teamed up to dispatch Pygmy Wall (S 3c), Golden Wonder (E1 5b or Highball V1), the Face pitch and both pitches of The Great Slab.
We left as darkness was falling around 8pm and headed down to The Clarence for a beer and a natter – just like old times pre-Covid…. Maybe things are starting to get back to normal after all….
Andy Stratford
Evening Meet: Windgather Rocks
Wed 25th Aug, 2021
Windgather Rocks Wed 25th August 2021
Members: Roger Dyke, Andy Stratford, Andy Pierce, Dave Wylie, Rory Marsden, Chris Kastavunis, Caro Churchill, Steve Lopacki, Adam McCudden, Ged Farmer
Prospective Members: Brian Tarnowski, Harry Potts, Holly Warder, James Pike, Daniel Arrowsmith, Anna Laws, Catriona Kastavunis,
Seventeen members and prospective members out on a classic Windgather evening – sunshine and light winds, unfortunately not breezy enough for the critters…. Not midges though. FLYING ANTS! At the top of random buttresses, randomly all evening. Randomly. AARghhh!!
Roger initially claimed to just be there to take photos, but after 15 minutes he had his harness on and was on High Buttress Arete!
The rest of us climbed all the classic Windgather routes, a few notable ascents were Daniel Arrowsmith onsight ascent of Portfolio HVS 5b, followed very capably by Holly then Andy S. Rory also led it and again was followed in good style by Anna – who had a cracking evening, leading her first two routes under Rory’s watchful eye.
Brian also got a few leads in with Dave assisting, and Caro moved up a gear on her trad game with a solid lead of Mississippi crack.
Many routes were solo’d as well, with Andy Pierce offering belay wisdom at the top of the crag to all those less familiar with the process.
We were treated to a superb sunset, as well as the good company, let see a good turnout next week as the equally sunset-tastic Alderman Rocks, followed by a trip to the pub.
Andy Stratford
Evening Meet: Bamford Edge
Wed 4th Aug, 2021
An awful forecast for Bamford meant that no-one went this time.
Some members may try Bamford again next week 11th August instead of Helsby which is a poor crag.
Committee members.
Evening Meet: Robs Rocks
Wed 28th Jul, 2021
A poor forecast for the Chew Valley which included thunderstorms was proved right, so no-one went up to Rob's rocks this week. Lets hope for better weather for Bamford next week.
Committee members.
Evening Meet: Stanage left hand end
Wed 21st Jul, 2021
Wednesday 21st July 2021
Evening Meet: Stanage left hand end
Members: David Rainsbury, Rory Marsden
Prospective members: Caroline Gay, Jacob Torley, Steve Torley, Liam Bell
As Caroline said she wouldn’t be able to arrive until after 4pm naturally she was the only person who had arrived at the Dennis Knoll car park by the time we had arranged. David and I arrived shortly after and once the local sheep had inspected our cars and climbing gear (Stanage Covid protocol) we set off for the crag. As neither Caroline or I had climbed at Stanage North before, we weren’t expecting anyone else, and it seemed rash to carry our gear too far on a hot afternoon, we decided to start at High Neb and possibly move further left later.
Having identified a suitably shady section of the crag I started with Mantleshelf climb (VD) followed in good style by David and Caroline. After some light hearted speculation on whether Old Friends (E4 6a) was an appropriate test for his new knee, David then led Tango Crack (VD), employing the layaway right start, for his first lead on grit in two years. Caroline and I followed for a fine start to the evening.
I had just made the first moves on High Neb Buttress Arete (S 4a) when there was a polite enquiry as to whether we were with KMC. This turned out to be new prospective member Liam. Liam had, quite fairly, assumed that we would actually be at the left hand end of Stanage and so parked at Moscar and trekked down from there, including a battle through the bracken to the finally arrive at High Neb. Sorry Liam!
Liam and David teamed up and Liam warmed up with a lead of Where did my Tan Go? (HVS 5a) which turned out to be a more thorough test for David and his new knee.
By now Jacob and Steve had arrived and so they joined me and Caroline to climb High Neb Buttress Arete. As a party of four we arrived back to the foot of the crag in time to have prime seats for Liam discovering that the guidebook description of The Dalesman (HVS 5a) was indeed accurate. “The beckoning break gives a good pump with runners galore”. David again seconded Liam and confirmed that The Dalesman gives a good pump whether you are leading or seconding.
I then led Lost Soul (S 4a) with Jacob and Caroline, while Liam moved on to lead one of the Stanage classics, High Neb Buttress (VS 4c). Steve was keen to have a crack at High Neb Buttress so he joined Liam on that and found that the key mantleshelf moves are well positioned and balanced.
The final climb of the evening went to Jacob. Having led his first Moderate routes at Burbage a couple of weeks previously, Jacob stepped things up with an excellent lead of Tango Crack (VD), employing the straight up foot jam start. This was seconded by Caroline who must have had some sense of déjà vu as she made a second ascent of the evening.
By now a bright pink moon had risen over Stanage indicating that having climbed until 9.30pm we had definitely made the most of the evening. We all headed home having bagged some excellent routes, caught some evening sunshine and with only one or two midge bites!
Rory Marsden
Evening Meet: Shining Clough
Wed 14th Jul, 2021
Shining Clough midweek – 14th July 2021
Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Rory Marsden
Prospective member: Caroline Gay
An excellent forecast for a moorland crag, and my first summer visit, having climbed Shining Clough icefall and two ice routes on the crag this winter with Gareth.
The walk in is notorious for the path being hard to both find and follow, and tonight was no exception – once the waterway of shining clough itself is crossed the path just does a disappearing act leading to 30 minutes of hardcore heather, bracken, and boulder bashing. Jim and I arrived at the crag, perspiring gently at about 4 ish and I was immediately struck by the striking crack and arete of 24m long three star VS classic, Phoenix Climb.
Jim decided to warm us up on the adjacent 3 star classic Severe of Via Principa. As ever Jim made short work of the 25 metre route Following up, I was engaged with some fabulous rough grit, unpolished despite many ascents (well, many for a moorland crag), following strong natural features. It had everything; exposure, cracks, jugs, gear wherever you wanted - an absolute joy and with doubt worth 4 stars - if fact, I'd say the best single pitch grit route at that grade I've ever climbed.
Rory and Caroline arrived just as we were arriving back at the base, Rory keen to lead it himself after listening to our enthusiasm. On reaching the top Rory’s grin was a broad as mine from his lead on Via Principa – Phoenix Climb VS was also amazing – with some brilliant jamming in the lower part and a wildly exposed arete near the top.
Somehow, I managed to get a nut stuck as part of my belay and after both Jim and I tried to free it to no avail I resorted to bashing my nut key with a small rock which put a tiny bend in it. Jim stretched out his healing hands to give my wonky nut key some loving attention, one gentle bend was all it would take to…. Snap it in half!! Thanks Jim!!
We wandered off to Pisa Buttress, it was Jim’s lead. Pisa Superdirect was the chosen line – yet another 3 star route, and again, it proved to be worth every one of those stars. Jim made the first section look easy as usual, but the overhanging crux did cause a little pause for thought…. I followed up and was super impressed with the lead – what a tough route!
Rory and Caroline went on a mission looking for V diff or severe on a ‘less trodden’ part of the crag and ended up new routing and gardening for the rest of the evening!!
The steep wall/slab on the right of Pisa buttress had a nasty looking off width called Stable Cracks described as ‘’a good straightforward introduction to the crag’’…. So, in other words a total sandbag! I grabbed my larger cam and set off on the mission.
‘’Sorry Jim’’.
I called, as the third large lump of vegetation hit his head as I gardened my way up, casually trashing my clothes and skin. One of the off width sections required udging of the cam upwards as I squirmed uncomfortably behind it, twisting nefarious parts of my body into the crack, in fact I reckon the first ascensionist was swearing about how they could ‘’stable a bloody horse in here’’ when they came up with the name! I made it to the top – sweaty, filthy, and bleeding mildly. Next time I’ll pay more attention to the route name.
Four mega routes and we decided we would call it a day, after all, there was the matter of the walkout!
Andy Stratford
Evening Meet: The Roaches
Wed 7th Jul, 2021
Poor weather this week for The Roaches, but maybe we will get lucky for the traditional weekend meet - this year on Sunday 15th August.
Committee members
Evening Meet: Lawrencefield
Wed 23rd Jun, 2021
Lawrencefield Midweek
Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Gareth Williams, Andy Pierce
Prospective Members: Rory Marsden, Steve Torley, Jacob Torley
Jim led Tyrone VS 4c, Nova HS 4b, Nailsbane HVD and the top pitch of Great Harry VS 4c after Rory had wilted his forearms on the strenuous first pitch!
Andy led Gingerbread VS 4b, Meringue HVS 5a, Branching Off (Three tree climb variation) HS 4c, and followed Jim on Nova and Tyrone. Gingerbread is an interesting one – relatively easy climbing but just two bits of gear which might just stop you hitting the ground. Meringue, it’s harder next door neighbour is actually much better protected with a decent selection of small cams, although the start is very polished as Steve Torley will attest! Jacob made short work of Branching off, speeding up after Andy, however the technical start proved too much for Steve, who handed over the rope to Gareth after a series of valiant attempts.
Rory followed Nova, Meringue and led Snail Crack and P1 of Great Harry, with arms seriously wilted after the major corner crack, Jim was called on to complete P2!
Gareth led Great Harry and followed Andy P on Delectable Direct E1 5c
Andy P solo’d a progressively more serious set of cakes - Gingerbread, Meringue and Éclair!
A great evening, excellent company….. and very few midges as a bonus – which is not always the case at Lawrencefield.
Andy StratfordEvening Meet: Staden Quarry
Wed 16th Jun, 2021
Dovestones Edge (alternative midweek meet to Staden Quarry) 16th June 2021
Deviant Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, John Cox
Prospective members: Rory Marsden, Caroline Gay, Jacob Torley, Steve Torley
A few weeks back Dovestones was on the list but apart from the weather being marginal, both Jim and I were away. Neither of us fancied Staden, hence the plan was advertised to have a deviant group from the ‘’official’’ KMC weds…. for an alternative evening at Dovestones Edge in the Chew valley. It really is in such a glorious spot for a sunny summer evening, and the weather played out 100% tonight. Enough sun to climb in a T-shirt but enough wind to blow the midges off, even at the base of the crag. The 45-minute walk in seemed perfectly reasonable for the rewards reaped in terms of the stunning views.
Jim opted for a start on Swan Crack (S4a) noted in the guidebook as (ahem!) ‘’an Old Timers favourite’’…… a cracking route. Andy followed up on the adjacent Noddys Wall at VS 4b, a cracking route with just enough gear to make it seem reasonable, Jim followed and then John Cox who had just arrived.
‘’is everything here rounded?’’ asked John?
Jim then opted for the absolute classic Left Embrasure VS 4b, a fabulously steep VS, but with great positive jams and jugs most of the way. John followed up in fine style with Andy last.
‘’Ok, so that wasn’t rounded but it was bloody steep’’…
You can’t please some people!
Jim and John then partnered for the rest of the evening climbing Central Tower (V Diff), Matchstick Crack (Severe) and Answer Crack (V Diff), all which Jim led in usual fine style. Whilst John was working his biceps on Embrasure, Rory and Caroline climbed Central Tower then went on to Coopers Crack HS 4b which Rory thoroughly enjoyed. Matchstick Crack (S) is often green and slimy at the back of the bay near Embrasure, and hadn’t looked appealing on previous visits, so Andy led it for the first time with Jacob in hot pursuit. Sadly, Steve couldn’t join in the climbing this evening after twisting his ankle on the walk-in.
After this it was time for a mass ascent of the three-star moorland classic of Nasal Buttress HS 4b led by Andy (with a little hesitation at the crux!) and followed by Jacob, Caroline, and Rory who then wanted one final route before it went dark and we had seen Jim in a fabulous position on the wall of Answer Cack (V diff) from across the gully, so we dashed across, and Rory led it giving his answer without deviation, hesitation, or repetition.
The first tiniest hint of midge arrived as we packed up at 9.15pm. It had been a wonderful evening of moorland grit with great company, thanks to everyone for coming.
Andy Stratford
Evening Meet: Millstone Edge
Wed 9th Jun, 2021
Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Gowry Sisupalan
Prospective members: Rory Marsden, Caroline Gay, Jacob Torley, Steve Torley
Millstone always feels like a tough and imposing venue and this warm but windy evening was no exception. Andy opened the evening with pitch 1 of Covent Garden (VS) – both Jim and Andy declining to climb P2 – the exposed and poorly protected arete. As they arrived back at the crag base Gowry and Caroline had just arrived and opted for a trip to the garden centre on The Scoop, a starred Diff which is in need of a little traffic! Jim blasted up The Mall (VS 4c) followed by Andy.
As Rory had arrived with Rhubarb (yes, the dog!) he opted for photography rather than climbing so there are some fine shots of most of the team having a crack at Embankment Route 2 (VS 4c) led with a relatively minimal amount of grunting from Jim. Caroline gamely followed, laybacking almost all the way, followed by Andy, then father and son team Jacob and Steve Torley.
Gowry and Caroline then headed round to Hells Bells buttress bay for a couple of easier routes, whilst Andy followed the polish on ‘The Great Slab (HS 4b), then the excellent upper section. Jacob followed in fine style, then Jim. Steve had an interesting time balancing on the slab, finding the polish in all the right places.
A lovely evening, midge free!
Andy Stratford
Evening Meet: Horseshoe Quarry
Wed 2nd Jun, 2021
Horsehoe Quarry / Burbage North – Midweek 2nd June 2021
Horsehoe-ers - Members: Adam McCudden, Jed Farmer
Burbage - Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Nils Elgar
Burbage - Prospective members: Rory Marsden, Steve Torley, Jacob Torley, Ian Bennett.
A breakaway contingent decided on the trad grit of Burbage North, advertising the alternative on the KMC scribble page.
Horsehoe still attracted a couple of members who both live much closer and an excellent evening's sport climbing was reported.
It’s a good while since the meet that this is being written up so memories have faded as to exactly who did what that gorgeous sunny evening – Andy’s routes included Black Slab (Vs 4b), Sentinel Chimney (HVD 4a), Lieback (HS 4b), Black Slab variation (Diff, sol’d by a few of us), Big Chimney Arete (HS 4b) and the intimidating off-width of Hollyash Crack (VS 4b).
Other routes climbed were Still Orange (S 4a) and Green Crack (VD).
The most notable event of the evening was Rory Marsden’s appearance with a rack of cams…. (refer to the meet report for the Stanage Newcomers meet, 1st May 2021).
Another fine evening of climbing, in great company at a fabulous venue.
Andy Stratford
Evening meet: Blackstone Edge
Wed 19th May, 2021
As far as we know no-one went on this midweek meet, not because the weather was terrible but more because it's a bit of a crap venue that should probably never have been on the list! Oh well, we know for next year!
Committee members
Evening meet: Castle Naze
Wed 12th May, 2021
Castle Naze weds 12th May 2021
Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Andy Pierce, Jack Buczko, Duncan Zerafa
Prospective Members: Ian Bennett, Rory Marsden
The forecast was a little marginal but Castle Naze is a super quick drying crag – we were there from 3pm – 8.30pm and in the end we only had a few spots of rain and a short spell of cool wind but other than that it was warm, dry, sunny and relatively calm.
We climbed most of the classic routes between us that evening with Jim having a cracking night leading Keep Arete VS 4b, The Crack VS 4b, Studio HS 4b, The Nithin S 4a, Scoop Face HVS 5a and Nozag VS 4c. Check out the KMC members facebook page for a great photo of Jim on scoop face before he got some gear in…..
Andy P managed about ten routes of which he solo’d eight – The Arete, Fifth horseman, thin cracks, The Nose, Niche arete, Pilgrims Progress, Little Pillar and Keep arete.
Everyone else led two or three routes on a relaxed and fun evenings climbing.
Andy S
Andy Stratford
Evening meet: Frogsmouth Quarry
Wed 5th May, 2021
Troy (replacement venue for Frogsmouth) midweek 5th May 2021
Members: Andy Stratford and Jim Symon
It had rained and rained for a couple of days, and as the BMC advise, climbing on sandstone after lost of rain is a no-no.... this is because the sandstone is porous and would erode much more quickly.... then there is the matter of Frogsmouth as a venue choice..... broken glass, grafitti, the sweet smell of charred bits from left over BBQ's and fires. Heaven!
Anyway, Anglezarke was proposed as an alternative, but due to one our fave KMC weds venues 'missing' from the list - something (apparently) to do with access..... Jim and I thought it wise to check with local KMC member and Troy guru Liam Brady, and with Paul Evans (KMC sec, and BMC access team) and actually, access is still fine it is just that one needs to be a little more careful with parking on the lane, or park further up the road and walk round the edge of the moor, which adds 12 minutes to the approach.
The weather was glorious and Troy takes the sunset beautifully - we climbed a great clutch of routes - Jim leading Stacked Deck (HS 4b), Cracked Wall (VS 4c) and Rapunzle (VS 5a) with Andy leading Right Siamese Twin (S 4a), Troy Groove (VS 4b) and Little Sneak (VS 4c).
Andy Stratford
Evening meet: Pule hill
Wed 28th Apr, 2021
Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon
Guest: Ian Bennett (Ex-member from many years ago!)
An excellent evening climbing a dozen or so of the superb short routes at this glorious venue with sunshine on the crag and not a midge in sight.
Andy Stratford
Evening meet: Running Hill Pits
Wed 21st Apr, 2021
No reports of attendance at 'the pits'.... bit of a tough venue to start the season, so maybe make it an end of season crag next year.
Committee members
Evening meet: Hobson Moor
Wed 7th Apr, 2021
Committee members are unsure who exactly was at this one..... but possibly members Nils Elgar, Jim Symon, Andy Stratford and Duncan Zerafa.
Committee members
Evening meet: Pule Hill
Wed 5th Aug, 2020
Pule hill
Members: Jared Kitchen and Gareth Williams
Having remained dry most of the day, a mighty cloud arrived the second we left the house, and by the time we arrive at arrived at Pule Hill the crag was dripping. However, the rain had stopped, and with the a brisk wind we hoped that the rock would dry quickly; we walked up the hill and arrived to see dry patches emerging! Feeling keen, we walked around to The Sentinal area where Jared racked up for a quick send of Treverse Not (VS 4c). At the top we rigged a top rope on the infamous Overlapping Wall (E1 6b); an impossible stopper of a problem that kept us puzzled for the next hour or so.
We then headed around to the Quarry in search of more action, but another great cloud gathered it's strength and soaked the crag for a second time. We sheltererd in the cave under Delilah (E1 5b) for a bit chatting away, but after 30 mins conceded defeat and returned to the cars. We arrived home just in time to log into the KMC's virtual meet for a chat.
It was great to get out and catch up with friends, even in the rain! It was a good evening.
Jared KitchenZoom meet
Wed 20th May, 2020
Welcome to KMC's new online meets. Our lovely community of climbers, mountaineers and hillwalkers are coming together each week - sometimes for a chat and sometimes for an informal talk from a club member. This week, we have a real treat:
Crossing the Gobi Desert with Gareth Williams
7pm
Zoom
If you're a member and want to join, check your email. If you're a prospective and would like to join us, you will be made very welcome - first fill in our quick and easy registration form: https://www.karabiner.org/contacts/joining.php then drop us a quick email: enquiries@karabiner.org, and we will send you details to log into Zoom.
Emily Pitts
Anniversary Garden Party
Thu 25th Jul, 2019
Report by: Michelle Harvie and Mark Garrod
Attendees: Rob Allen, Dave Wylie, Jim Symon, Philippa Symon, Michelle Harvie, Kate Harvey, Mark Garrod, Joe Dugdale, Christine Beeston, Maggie Baldock, Dave Shotton, Alan Barber, Janis Barber, Alan (L) Jones, Jeremy Engineer, Cathy Devine, Roisin Maddison, Colin Maddison, Mary Stuart, Oi Ding Koy, Iain McCallum, Linda Crossley, Mark Ashley, Lorna Marsland, David, Jo Stratford, Andy Stratford (27)
Thanks to Michelle’s boss Tony who lent us a large gazebo at short notice once we had seen the forecast – it kept 4 sharp showers from dampening the evening’s socialising. Thanks also to everyone who came along and made the summer garden party a success, and for bringing enough food along to feed everyone easily, and amazingly, with a nicely varied spread.
Our collection raised £101.05 for St Ann’s Hospice.
We now have to decide when the next one is – maybe in 2 years?
Mark & Michelle
Mark GarrodTrevor Rocks (Llangollen)
Wed 2nd Aug, 2017
Improbable mid-week limestone sport-climbing near Llangollen
Attendees: Duncan Zerafa & John Smallwood.
After a relatively quick and easy drive from Manchester, two climbers arrived for the further afield Welsh mid-week meet. A mixed forecast had perhaps put people off. It had rained very heavily just before arriving and the likely-hood of climbing anything seemed remote. Local climbers already there were abandoning their climbing, but the KMC duo felt it would be worth seeing if things improved. The crumbled walls of Castle Dinas Bran dominated the dramatic landscape looking along the rolling hills of the valley and made up for lost climbing time.
The trad climbing routes in the quarry at the eastern side were dripping wet and ruled out, however those sport routes which were on the western end were drying out quickly in the evening sun and breeze. So without the Clywd Limestone guide book several sport routes were started and some abandoned as the unknown grades became apparent. After checking the UKClimbing website the routes climbed might have been K9 5a*, Hotdog 4a* and Chocolate Fudd 6a+. But really we didn't know for sure, it didn't matter though and we enjoyed limestone sport climbing.
Next week Cow's Mouth Quarry
Duncan ZerafaLawrencefield Quarry
Wed 7th Jun, 2017
Sheltered quarried grit near Hathersage
Members present: Duncan Zerafa
Guests present: Ben Kolb, Andy Pierce, John Smallwood.
A warm, breezy and dry evening held promise for the climbing tonight. Lawrencefield Quarry looks quite similar to Denham Quarry with a small pool, sheltered by birch trees and long towering routes shooting up the walls.
John had arrived the earliest and partnered up with new guest Ben under Gingerbread Slab. The first route he led was the long continuous crack of Snail Crack VD*, seconded by Ben. This was followed by Ben leading Tyrone VS 4c* a route with an abseil descent, described later as "sandy, weird and awkward" by John.
Meanwhile under the Great Harry wall area Duncan was climbing with guest Andy, who had climbed the previous week with the KMC at the Roaches. First was a lead of the 3 star route Three Tree Climb HS 4b. It was noticed the three trees though have long since departed. Andy made a fine lead of Excalibur VS 4c** at the Pool Wall area. Your author whilst belaying espied massive wood ants benignly scurrying around his feet and over the ropes. John was now leading the long and meandering Pulpit Groove VD 4a**. Which combined crack climbing, traversing and an exposed finish. Also being his favourite route of the evening.
The cloudy canopy above our heads was becoming bleak and rain drops idly menaced. But there was still time for one more route. Ben flew up the delicate crack of Meringue HVS 5a* making very short work of it. Duncan lead the fine, fingery and bold Gingerbread VS 4b*. No protection until about three quarters of the way up at around 8m, but a really great climb.
With the rain starting to now take effect on the rock, quick abseils down aided us as we adjourned to The Little John pub in Hathersage to vote for next weeks crag. Presented to the voters were the three options of Wilton and Anglezarke Quarries along with the natural crag of Dovestones Edge. Recent KMC trips to the aforementioned quarries produced a landslide victory for Dovestones Edge. A longish walk in but worth it on a early summer evening.
Dunnwood Park Boulder, Shaw
Wed 26th Mar, 2014
Dave, Emily, Mark, Trish, Al
The small group just managed get an hours worth of bouldering in before the drizzle set in.
Bridgewater Bouldering
Wed 21st Dec, 2011
Attended by Nick and Gareth, but only as ships that pass in the night. Some bouldering in conditions damp underfoot and underhand. Followed by dining and shopping?
Bridgewater Bouldering
Wed 15th Dec, 2010
Bouldees: Gareth Williams, Dave Shotton, James Williams, Nick Adamson, Al Metelko, Dave Dillon.
2 venues, 2 traverses, 2 new routes 'Elephant Crack' and 'Gateaux Men'.
Bouldering & Bingeing Comp
Wed 15th Jan, 2003
Indoor Meet.
So the post-Festive blues have set in. Christmas and Hogmanay have been & gone and what have you got to show for two weeks of fun, frolick and debauchery? Endless bottles of smelly stuff from various relatives & acquaintances you'd long thought had passed on to the land of low gravity; the rumbling remnants of indigestion that even the strongest liver salts wont touch; and worst of all a credit card bill that suggests a wonderful time was had by all, but of which your mind has nothing but fleeting and disturbed memories of indescribable liqueurs downed from some stranger's stiletto whilst standing on a bar table and gurgling your heart out to a Karaoked version of Slade's Merry Christmas. But worse by far is the sense of disbelief when getting out of the shower you glimpse an horrendous vision of your head and Craig Marsden's body. How, in just two weeks, could turkey and stuffing have converted to 6 stone of blubber!
Well don't fear - the cure is here! Guarenteed to restore mind and body to some semblance of balance, burn off the surplus lard, and give you hope, and maybe a little excited anticipation, for what the coming year holds.
So what is this cure-all, this elixir of life, this panacea ????..?
A Bouldering Comp' - wot a grand idea I hear you all shout with enthusiasm!
What could be better than putting your aging limbs and sagging stomachs through their paces at a friendly, not-too-competitive (take note Rick) climbing outing encouraged by calls of support from your bestest chums - and all followed by a curry and a pint of Robinson's finest at a nearby hostelry.
After the enthusiasm and support for last years bouldering competition - regardless of age (old Rob Allen - 73 - got his crumbling bones up some problems) and size (Craig & Rick came along - damage to wall has now been repaired!), I am organizing another for this year. So if you're interesting in demonstrating your grace, poise & elegance, or even your thuggery, skittery foot work and fear of heights, then make a note of Wednesday 15th January.
The script will be much the same as last year - arrive anytime after 6.00pm, 'compete' (in its loosest sense) till 9ish - then out for a curry at a local curryhouse/pub for good food, banter and prize giving.
The venue is Glossop Wall, where problems across the full range of KMC ability (3b - 4a) will be set to test your metal and embarrass you in front of friends and family - but don't let that put you off, you can rest safe in the knowledge that there's always someone less competent than yourself - Rick will be there!
To recap:
Event: Bouldering Comp.
Date: Wednesday 15th January
Time: 6.00pm onwards
(No Reports)
Back to Current !!!!
If you are considering coming along to a club meet, please read the following:-
Participation Statement
"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."
More Evening Meets:
During the spring and summer months evening meets are held outdoors at local crags, usually on Wednesdays, weather permitting. Keep an eye on the scribbles for the latest information. Indoor climbing wall meets start again in the autumn.
Some lucky people may be able to get out climbing nice and early, but this will vary depending on work hours and the traveling distance. Generally you should find KMC climbers at the crag by 6pm and some might still be there after its gone dark.
If you have any questions about coming along to a meet, or if you want to try and arrange car sharing, etc., then just send us an e-mail. For the latest information check the Scribble pages.
Outdoor Climbing Venues Used:
Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley (17)Aldery Cliff (3)
Anglezarke Quarry (16)
Ashworth Moor Quarry (1)
Bamford Edge (9)
Beeston Tor (1)
Blackstone Edge (5)
Bridestones (West Yorkshire) (1)
Broadbottom Quarry (2)
Brownstones (3)
Cadshaw Rocks (6)
Castle Naze (22)
Coire an t'Sneachda (1)
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough (15)
Deeply Vale (3)
Den Lane, Uppermill (13)
Denham Quarry (8)
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley (17)
Dovestones Lower Left Quarry (1)
Egerton Quarry (4)
Froggatt Edge (2)
Harpur Hill Quarry (12)
Helsby (14)
Hen Cloud (2)
Heptonstall (7)
Hobson Moor Quarry (44)
Hollywood Park Boulder (2)
Horseshoe Quarry (5)
John Wayne Memorial Crag (1)
Kinder Downfall (2)
Lester Mill Quarry (2)
Longford Park Boulder (3)
Millstone Edge (7)
Misty Wall, Kinder Northern Edge (1)
Moving Buttress, Cheedale (1)
New Mills Torrs (12)
Pex Hill (5)
Pot Hole Quarry (2)
Pots and Pans Quarries (2)
Pule Hill, Marsden (16)
Ramshaw Rocks (8)
Ravensdale (1)
Ravenstones - Chew Valley (1)
Reddyshore Scout (2)
Roaches Lower Tier (1)
Roaches Upper Tier (6)
Robs Rocks - Chew Valley (9)
Rough Knarr (1)
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth (18)
Shining Clough Rocks (6)
Staden Quarry (6)
Stanage North (2)
Stanage Plantation (1)
Stanage Popular End (3)
Standing Stones - Chew Valley (7)
Stoney Middleton (1)
Summit Quarry (2)
Swinton Boulders (1)
Tegg's Nose (2)
The Pump House (1)
Thors Cave (1)
Tintwistle Knarr (2)
Tissington Spires in Dovedale (1)
Tonacliffe Quarry (2)
Troy Quarry (32)
Victoria Park Boulder, Stretford (2)
Warton in Silverdale (3)
Wharncliffe Crags (1)
Wilton 1 (19)
Wilton 3 (9)
Wimberry Rocks (9)
Windgather (23)
Winnats Pass (1)
Witches Quarry (18)
Woodhouse Scar (2)
Wormstones (1)
Yellowslacks (3)
Climbing Walls Used:
Manchester Climbing Centre (118)Marple Rope Race (3)
Rock Over Climbing (6)
Stockport Awesome Walls (180)
The Depot: Manchester (70)
Warrington North Face (3)
Other Evening Meets (117)
Lancs online guidebook
