Sat 31st Aug - Sun 1st Sep, 2002
Mysterious Welsh Rock
Saturday: The Twilight Zone (Eglwyseg Valley).
Present: Sheena Hendrie, Sean Kelly, Rick Davies, Roger Dyke, James Richardson and myself.
What a superb crag in a superb setting. Lots of routes done ranging from HS to E2 on some of the best limestone in the country. I encountered only one foot hold that could be described as polished.
Sunday: Llanymynech and Carreg y Byg (Welsh sounding but alas in England!).
Present: Dave Dillon Kevin Anderson, Sabina Cosulich, Duncan Lee, James Richardson. Roger Dyke and myself.
Having visited Llanymynech one evening some 4/5 years ago I've wanted to get back and do Black Wall (E2) (Duncan/Sabina) Unfortunately after repeating the fantastic three pitch Blind Faith (VS) (Dave/James and Kevin/Me) (Roger seemed a little overwhelmed by the place) the mid-day sun was quite intense on the black rock. I could see that my enthusiasm for the place was not shared and a decision was made to move on to Carreg y Byg. This quarry is much smaller in height and the initial impression was not good being hidden in a wood, in a hole and the rock surface seemed to be covered in a carpet of moss and lichen. On finding and climbing, the routes turned out be well worth seeking out and many where done. It must be mentioned that Duncan did a fine job of cleaning routes (a must if climbing in Cheedale) including the top of Concave Wall (E1, 5c) and setting up a lower off allowing many leads of this fine route. Since at the end of the day the mobile café Hotel Grün wasn't serving, so a few of us crossed the border into mysterious Wales in search of a pub and grub but that's another story.
Thanks to all who came for making the weekend an enjoyable experience.
This weekends 'Mysterious Wales' climbing venues:
The Twilight Zone in the Eglwyseg Valley, Clwyd near Llangollen. Parking in laybys near Plas yn Eglwyseg farm at 216462 OS map 117 (see map below). Grades from VD to E5, most are in the lower grades.
Llanymynech/Carreg y Byg near Oswestry. Parking (Llanymynech) - from Oswestry heading south towards Welshpool in the village of Pant at a small cross road, a road leads off to the right. This road is not easy to locate but is most easily identified by a 'gritstone like' cottage and a row of 'tennis racket like' bollards on its southern corner. Two sharp bends and the road ends on a dirt track and a good parking area, good path leads to the climbing.
I should be there by 10:30am, anyone wishing to share lifts ought to ring me at the latest 8:30am (Saturday/Sunday). Drive time is around 1 hour 20 min from Manchester.
Hope to see you there.