Froggatt Edge Climbing
Sun 5th Aug, 2018
You'll just be back from the Alps? Then you’ll be keen to get back on lovely sound grit again....
Plenty of parking in the National Trust’s Haywood Pay+Display car park just off the A625, 400m S of the Grouse Inn. Free if you have your NT Membership Card with you.
Or if you are early enough, free at the side of the A625 near the start of the track to Froggatt Edge, at 255775.
Fifteen minutes gentle level walk to the crag.
Or if it is absolutely tipping down, 5 mins to the bar of the Grouse - and don’t panic, the crag dries quickly after a shower and indeed after heavy rain.
Something for everyone here – twenty routes at Severe and below, some superb HS’s, several days’ climbing at VS and above: and classics at all standards.
Six of the top 50 routes in Eastern Grit are here.
Plenty of trees to give shelter from the sun, and it’s child- and dog-friendly too.
For this special occasion, I’ll have my mobile switched on.
Meet 10.30 onward below Allen’s Slab (a delicate S4a) and Slab Recess, the slightly bold Diff.
Just to the right from here, two athletic moves get you up Trapeze Direct HS 4c. Or traverse right for Trapeze itself – the popular VD, well-protected at the top only if you look carefully.
Further right is “arguably the best line on the crag” which our own Nat Allen and Bowdon Black dug out of the ferns in 1948: Green Gut HS 4a.
Further right still, a good collection of strenuous high E numbers (more Elastoplast) then a final classic – the delightful Chequers Buttress, HVS 5a, which gets my vote as the best route on the crag. I always used to fall off the move onto the arête. I doubt if I can get that far these days, but I'm sure you will.
Going left from basecamp, Sickle Buttress S 4a only needs one jam but does need confidence in friction on the little curved ramp that prompted its name, and careful thought to leave the comfortable ledge at the top of the ramp. It may only be Severe, but the route is far more polished below the ramp than above it….
Further left, Broken Crack VS 5a demands good jamming or a good first-aid kit.
Then there is the superb, Diamond Crack HS 4b, scene of one of my scary moments, and the superb classic HVS 5a, Valkyrie.
Further left still you can entertain the crowd as you struggle to gain the slab of Tody’s Wall HVS 5a or test your nerve on Three Pebble Slab – another classic HVS 5a, with a KMC story behind it.
Then there’s the classic well-protected VD, Heather Wall. You’ve made the first two moves? Good, you’ve passed the crux.
The juggy delight of the steep Terrace Crack, another HS 4b is not to be missed as you move on to the well-protected pleasure of Sunset Crack HS 4b, or the unprotected thrill of Sunset Slab HVS 4b.
Now, as we head back to the cars, there are the Froggatt boulders……
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